Archives for March 2016

Japan Travel: Kyoto Temples in Arashiyama

Last week I walked through how we walked the 2 miles through some of the most famous temples and shrines in Southeast Kyoto. Today, I’m going to share another day that we walked through visiting temples in Kyoto, but this time in the Arashiyama area. You can spend a whole day in this area because there are plenty of sights, but we only spent a half day (I’ll go through the first half of this day, which was at the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine, in a future post). I feel like the Kyoto Temples in Arashiyama are a must see, even if they don’t have the same level of reknown. That is because unlike the famous temples, these in Arashiyama are much more introspective and don’t have the crowds. It feels like a more authentic visit to a temple that has beauty, history, as well as timeless non-specific spirituality, whatever your beliefs may be.

Arashiyama is farther out west from the city center, which means it will likely take about 30 minutes by transit. The main street is busy and touristy, centered by the the famous Togetsukyo Bridge, Tenryuji Temple, and the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.

Tenryu-ji Temple

Tenryuji Temple is considered one of Kyoto’s five great Zen temples, and is a world heritage site. The curved gable roof of this wood and plaster Temple Living Quarters is one of the most commonly photographed of Tenryuji’s buildings and is a something of a symbol for the temple itself. The temple is also known for its garden that includes integration of water (both with real water with the koi and as represented by arranged white sand in wave pattterns), rock, sky and mountains.

Tenryuji Temple was built in 1339 but the temple buildings were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries, so most of the current halls date from the relatively recent Meiji Period (1868-1912). Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryuji’s garden survived the centuries in its original form. I don’t know how original the giant koi here are though…
Tenryuji Temple as built in 1339 by the ruling shogun Ashikaga Takauji. This is the roof of the Kuri (Temple Living Quarters) is one of the major buildings traditionally counted among the seven halls (shichido garan) that constitute the ideal Zen monastic compound. Tenryu-ji's Kuri presently houses the temple's main kitchen and administrative offices. With its high, gently curving gable roof framing a half-timbered, white-plastered facade, the Kuri is the most commonly photographed of Tenryu-ji's buildings and has become something of a symbol for the temple itself Tenryuji Temple was built in 1339 but the temple buildings were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries, so most of the current halls date from the relatively recent Meiji Period (1868-1912). Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryuji's garden survived the centuries in its original form. I don't know how original the giant koi here are though... Tenryuji Temple as built in 1339 by the ruling shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji dedicated the temple to Emperor Go-Daigo, who had just passed away. The two important historic figures used to be allies until Takauji turned against the emperor in a struggle for supremacy over Japan. By building the temple, Takauji intended to appease the former emperor's spirits. The Kairo (covered colonnade) at Tenryuji Temple, Kyoto

Also located at Tenryuji is a Zen Vegetarian restaurant called Shigetsu, where we enjoyed traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine also known as shojin-ryori. After paying you remove your shoes because inside are all wooden hallways and inside the rooms are tatami mat floors.
Entrance to Shigetsu: Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant serving traditional Japanese Buddhist cuisines, also known as shojin-ryori. After you enter, you remove your shoes because inside are tatami mat floors as you'll soon see. This building is also known as Ryumontei (Dragon Gate Pavillion). Shigetsu: Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant serving traditional Japanese Buddhist cuisines, also known as shojin-ryori. Heading to eat kneeling in silence in a common room as the monks do... I wouldn't say we were silent but we were very very quiet.

You head into a common room to eat kneeling as the monks do. I wouldn’t say we were silent but we were very quiet, whispering in our small parties. Each person sat side by side so you didn’t even look at them directly when dining. This is so different from normal eating in the US where as we kneeled eating silently, we were forced to focus on the presentation and subtle flavors before us and nothing else, without the distraction of conversation or anyone else moving or making noise around us.

Red lacquer is used extensively to show off the good presentation. We got the Yuki (Snow) set ¥3,000 that includes rice, soup, and five side dishes – these first two photos are not the entire set, as the soup came after the first tray, and then there was an additional dessert tray.
Red lacquer is used extensively to show off the food at Shigetsu: Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant serving traditional Japanese Buddhist cuisines, also known as shojin-ryori. This is not all the dishes- there are more coming, as we found out... though I guess we should not have been surprised since we got the Yuki (Snow) set ¥3,000 that includes Rice, soup, and five side dishes Shigetsu: Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant serving traditional Japanese Buddhist cuisines, also known as shojin-ryori. The word shojin generally means Buddhist vegetarian in Japan but originally meant 'zeal in progressing along the path to salvation.'

On that center dish, in the back is is yuba, or tofu skin and to the left the rectangle is Nama-fu or wheat gluten. The vegetables are pea pods and a mushroom. To the upper right, the tofu had the sauce at the bottom and its made with sesame not soy. All the dishes were focused on highlighting simple but local and fresh ingredients while also balancing hot and cold, sweet, sour, savory, salty, and a bit of bitter, as well as different textures.
Details of one of the dishes as part of our set of shojin-ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant. In the back is is yuba, or tofu skin and to the left the rectangle is Nama-fu or wheat gluten. The vegetables are pea pods and a mushroom. Details of one of the dishes as part of our set of shojin-ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant. This tofu had the sauce at the bottom and its made with sesame not soy Details of one of the dishes as part of our set of shojin-ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant. Details of one of the dishes as part of our set of shojin-ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant. Details of one of the dishes as part of our set of shojin-ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant. The last dish - dessert - of our set of shojin-ryori, our Buddhist vegetarian lunch at Shigetsu: Tenryu-ji's Zen Vegetarian Restaurant

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

After exiting the north entrance of Tenryuji Temple, you will then be able to walk through the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. The way the light filtered through the bamboo, the sounds and the sight of the woods swishing when it swayed from the wind was something you can’t capture in photos, though it is really picturesque.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in Kyoto Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in Kyoto

Then, as you walk north from the bamboo groves, you enter a more rural area. There were even times I kept double checking my Custom Google Map as all the people around us thinned out. There were times during our 30 minute walk it was just us walking along an empty path, with nothing on the sides but homes or fields, and at one point old fashioned wooden storefronts along the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street in the style of the Meiji period. You can imagine yourself stepping into the same small town and countryside that you see set in Studio Ghibli movies.

There are a few other temples along the way early on before it turns into countryside, but I was focused specifically on visiting two small temples a little over 2 km away from where most of the tourists of Arashiymama congregate. Both of these two small temples off the beaten path have lots of statues – but in totally different contexts.

Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple is a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. Numerous stone monuments and images – in fact 8000 of them – honor the souls of the dead who during the Heian (794-1185) to Edo (1603-1868) periods, were destitute and left to the hills with no tombstone or proper burial. When we arrived, we didn’t see anyone there – and during our entire stay we only saw a handful of other visitors. It felt very solemn, and coming across the main field of the thousands of statues is humbling.
Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino

It must be extraordinarily beautiful here during the end of August, when they light more than 1000 candles here in the evening over a couple days to honor the ancestor spirits here. There are no red and gold wooden beams like from the shrines, or gentle curved roofs with ornamental tiles at this temple: just the sombering simplicity of so many stones.

Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District, a temple dedicated to the repose of souls who have died without families to remember them. The hundreds of stone buddhas and towers here are dedicated to the nameless deceased through the hundreds of years that are scattered and buried in the fields and mountains of Adashino

Within this temple, there is also a bamboo grove path that is much quieter than the one we just visited which is more well known (and ok, Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is free while we had to pay to enter this temple). But that also means you can see it without all the other people  – and it’s also the location for the cover of the Lonely Planet Japan guide 13th edition.
Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple in the Arashiyama District. This bamboo grove path is much quieter than the one we just visited which is more well known (and ok, free since we had to pay to enter this temple) - and it's also the cover of the Lonely Planet guide 13th edition

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Walk another 750 m north to this even more secluded temple of Otagi Nenbutsuji that features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. It’s more out of the way, but well worth it.
Otago Nenbutsu-ji Temple in Kyoto is famous for its 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Otago Nenbutsu-ji in Kyoto is famous for its 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Otago Nenbutsu-ji is hidden away at the far end of the beautiful and popular Arashiyama neighbourhood in Kyoto’s western hills. and is famous for its 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex. Otago Nenbutsu-ji is hidden away at the far end of the beautiful and popular Arashiyama neighbourhood in Kyoto’s western hills. and is famous for its 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex.

Similar to Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, when we first entered we only saw a few statues… and then we take a step, turn a corner, and suddenly all the statues in all their uniqueness expand from scattered to rows of men and then into a sea of faces, all the same but all different.
Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Many are covered in moss and crumbling away, but this just adds to the atmosphere and the feeling of discovering a lost treasure Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. You can also see the principal image, Senju Kannon the Buddhist goddess of mercy Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Many are covered in moss and crumbling away, but this just adds to the atmosphere and the feeling of discovering a lost treasure Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. The quirky figures are scattered amongst a few small temples and pagodas in a shady temple complex

When worshippers of the temple celebrated the temple’s restoration after it was destroyed, they did so by donating the 1200 rakan sculptures. A famous Japanese sculptor taught many amateurs how to carve from stone, and they all had a different response to the challenge.
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple Rakan represent the disciples of Buddha. These statues, in keeping with rakan traditions, are generally humorous. The one in the middle I liked as he laughs, head tilted back

Many are covered in moss and crumbling away, but this just adds to the atmosphere and the feeling of discovering a lost treasure like in some sort of archaeological exploration of a previously hidden culture.
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple. Many of these statues are covered in moss and crumbling away, but this just adds to the atmosphere and the feeling of discovering a lost treasure like in some sort of archaeological exploration of a previously hidden culture.

There is everything from cute to scary to sad to serene to funny to bizarre. We spent a long time here, trying to absorb all the various faces we could see. Some of the ones in the photos below include one with kind eyes and a smile, one wearing shades (and a scary wrinkly one behind him), one playing peek a boo, and one with a funny face behind a scary mask, among others. We saw ones with an owl pet, two that were drinking together, even one with a tennis racket, and more.
Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. This one on the left has kind eyes and smile Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. That one in the front is wearing shades I think... Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses. Is the one in the back playing peek a boo? "Otagi

Overall, I really enjoyed Otagi Nenbetsuji in that it reminded me of the little nuances that each person has to contribute, and that there’s also joy even as time continues to march on with us and one day past us. This was one of F’s favorite temples we visited in Japan, and mine too.

As I mentioned at the start, the visits above in the Arashiyama area were essentially from lunch on – so just a half day.  We first headed to this area for lunch since I knew it would make vegetarian F so happy to have a known, completely safe Buddhist vegetarian meal with lots of dishes. From Tenryuji Temple through the Bamboo Forest and Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple to Otagi Nenbetsuji Tempe was about 3 km, or a little less than 2 miles, total one way.

We then hopped on a bus that we had seen on our way there to get back.  We also then got a little lost as I got frustrated that Google Maps wasn’t translating the bus lines and numbers even though the buses themselves had English – trying to match kanji or katakana is no joke. We ended taking 3 buses back, transferring to another bus by Togetsukyu Bridge, then at Kyoto Station to the Gion area. So lest you think our travels are always smooth – no, we totally get lost too.

And this was an intense walk day of 24509 steps, or almost 11 miles!

What do you think of the Kyoto Temples in Arashiyama versus the famous temples and shrines from last Travel Tuesday’s post of the famous Temples and Shrines of Kyoto?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Roasted Shredded Brussels Sprout Salad

This recipe for Roasted Shredded Brussels Sprout Salad is so simple! It is served warm and is just combined with salt, pepper, oil, and apple cider vinegar and takes only 15 minutes! But, it’s healthy, vegetarian, and comforting.
Warm brussels sprouts salad recipe - just shredded sprouts with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a bit of apple cider vinegar roasted in the oven. A warm salad for when you want to be healthy but want a little comfort from a rainy day

You can indulge a little by adding to your Roasted Brussels Sprouts Salad a shower of freshly grated parmesan, or crumble in some crispy bacon, toss in some slivered almonds, whatever to this sturdy foundation of shredded roasted greens. That might add a few more minutes to the time to create that salad, but this salad is also great without the additions. I’m currently reading Chrissy Tiegen’s cookbook Cravings and although her shredded brussels sprouts salad is raw and uses lemon juice instead of apple cider vinegar, I liked her idea of adding in 1 1/2 cups halved grapes and 1/2 cup toasted slivered almonds.

Roasting the shredded brussels sprouts is an extra step since you could just dress and eat them raw as is. But I like how roasting pays off as it gives the salad a little bit of crispiness that brings it up to a new level from a raw salad, without that much more effort. Having a warm salad is also comforting on spring days that drift more into chilly and rainy.

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound of Brussels Sprouts
  • 2 tablespoons Olive Oil
  • Salt to taste
  • Freshly ground Pepper to taste
  • 1 tablespoon Apple Cider vinegar

Directions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Grease a baking pan with spray or olive oil – you might choose to put some parchment paper or foil down first for easier cleanup.
  2. Next, after cleaning and tossing any browned leaves on the outside of your sprouts, I cut them in half and then shred them in the food processor for about 15 seconds or so in two batches. All together that took maybe 5 minutes.
  3. Now mix the shredded brussels sprouts with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the salt and pepper to taste together in a large mixing bowl.  Spread the sprouts on your lined baking pan and roast just until the edges start to get crisped and brown.  This might be about 7 – 10 minutes.
  4. While still hot, toss the 1 tablespoon of Apple Cider vinegar into the roasted and shredded sprouts.  Serve right away. Done, warm healthy salad for four people in 15 minutes!
    This recipe for Roasted brussels sprouts salad is just shredded sprouts with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a bit of apple cider vinegar roasted in the oven. These little browned pieces are just from roasting in the oven, not bacon - though I won't stop you from crumbling a little crispy bacon on your version

I served this as a side dish along with a Leek and Cheese Ranch Chicken Breast and Garlic Mashed Potatoes – I even ended up mixing the sauce from the chicken with the potatoes and the brussels sprouts and it was all good, a traditional home cooked meal with your plate of greens, carbs, and protein.
Recipe for this Warm Roasted brussels sprouts salad - a side here with mashed potatoes and creamy ranch chicken

How would you like to eat your brussels sprouts – would you add additional toppings here, what would they be?

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A Look at Muselet Portland

Muselet has closed

In the South Waterfront, a restaurant named Muselet (a muselet is the wire that holds the cork and that you twist off to open a Champagne bottle – it’s pronounced “Muse-LAY”) opened in May last year, and has been a hidden dining destination gem. I felt like it was my duty to share this secret with you.

While Muselet may or may not be new to you, it has already racked up many awards by those who are in the know. It is listed on OpenTable’s online reservation site by diners as among the Top 10 Best Overall Restaurants in Portland as well as Top 10 Best Service in Portland and Top 10 Best Ambiance in Portland. You know they are serious about wine as soon as you walk through the front door and see this gorgeous light fixture and all those wine glasses all lined up for service that night…
Muselet Portland

And then there’s this:

Muselet Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile
Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile

When I first saw the above dish of Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile get set down, I wondered if it was dessert, it was plated so beautifully. But then when I took that bite and got all those flavors… Well, it’s still wonderful enough for dessert in its decadence and creamy texture that brings together rich savory with a hint of sweet.  I loved the additional textures bringing an extra level to this dish. In fact it’s actually on the dessert menu too, not just the dinner menu. It’s so rich, and so perfect with a flight of sparkling… You will feel like a million bucks.

Meanwhile, the #1 reason to rush down to Muselet ASAP right now – RIGHT NOW – is the Porridge with warm yolk, trout roe, and chive. Ron recommends pairing it with options such as Alsatian Single Vineyard Riesling, Domain Picq Single Vineyard Chablis from Bussieres in Burgundy, or Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximenez Blanc from Mendoza, Argentina. All sounds like win to me.
Muselet Porridge with warm yolk, trout roe, chive

As soon as I saw porridge on the menu I thought “how ballsy, they are offering porridge as a restaurant dish”. But those who have experienced know it’s a home run and a must not miss dish.  It’s a striking marriage of Muselet Owner Ron Acierto’s nostalgia for his Filipino roots of bone-warming heartiness and Executive Chef Greg Zanotti’s take of modern and eclectic, combining classic technique and progressive preparation with art of plating.

But, it’s only available for a short period of time – Chef Greg warns he’ll pull it off from the menu as soon as the weather is better because it’s too rich for the sun. So hurry in while it’s on the menu right now.

Not only that, for the month of March 2016 only for Portland Dining Month, they are offering a jaw dropping dinner option for the $29 – but instead of 3 courses you get 6 dishes! You can also add wine pairings for your courses for an additional $25. Their Portland Dining Month menu just for March includes

  • steelhead beet, brassicas, orange
  • pear burrata, kale, arugula, pecan-pistou
    Muselet Portland's pear burrata, kale, arugula, pecan-pistou "Muselet
  • bread alex’s parker house rolls, house cultured butter, maldon
  • charcuterie chicken liver mousse, cotechino, mustard, pickles
  • beets feta, yogurt, fermented garlic
    Muselet Beets with feta, yogurt, fermented garlic
  • pork coppa wild onion, hop aioli, leek fondue

I tell you, that list of six dishes for that price is a heist you should check out. But come hungry, and even with the Portland Dining Month menu, you should get that porridge while it’s in season. Somehow, even though you are getting six shared courses for the bargain price of $29, I think you will rise to the challenge of eating that porridge after you try your first comforting spoonful.

And, somehow still also save room for dessert: oh, this gorgetous, fun dessert. Everyone will jealously turn and wonder what you are enjoying, and they SHOULD be jealous of this Goat’s Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta. This dessert is also just simply known as Bubbles. Ron explains the dish was invented because he “In the beginning, I asked Greg to create a dessert that was quirky, delicious and would make guests smile. This one is like fireworks for your sweet tooth. It’s funny, the recipe is running in a future ‘1859’ magazine issue… it calls for ‘a small aquarium pump.’”
Muselet Bubbles Dessert of Dessert of Goat's Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta Muselet Bubbles Dessert of Dessert of Goat's Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta
A look when first placed on the table and basically 60 seconds later after the first photo was taken under the bubbles….

If you return after Portland Dining Month, besides the porridge and Bubbles dessert (and perhaps the foie gras either as appetizer or dessert…), you might consider splurging on the Wagyu Culotte with short rib and mushroom duxelle. This dish is perfectly cooked meat butter, tender without being too fatty. Paired by Ron with 2007 Hawk’s View Cellars Pinot Noir, the pairing is fit for royalty – seriously it wouldn’t look out of place as the dinner plate while in a ballgown and wearing diamonds.
Muselet Wagyu Culotte with short rib, mushroom duxelle

There are multiple options in Portland for oyster, but Muselet sets apart their oyster dish with its half a dozen shigoku with blood orange mignonette that you can enjoy with champagne or sparkling – such as Maysara Pinot Noir Brut Rose. Little trivia: Muselet was the first to pour Maysara Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rose in the area, and the wine is only available at the winery for their wedding events.
There are multiple options in Portland for oyster, but Muselet stands out with its Half a dozen shigoku with blood orange mignonette that you can enjoy with champagne or sparkling - such as Maysara Pinot Noir Brut Rose (Muselet was the first to pour Maysara Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rose in the area, and the wine is only available at the winery for their wedding events)

Definitely get a sparkling wine when you visit – or any wine. Wines are a huge draw to visit Muselet, since it is listed as one of Wine Enthusiast’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants in America for 2015, is one of the Oregon Wine A-List Award winners 2016 and is rated on OpenTable’s online reservation site by diners as among the Top 10 Most Notable Wine Lists for Portland / Oregon.

The Muselet wine list features 50+ Champagne (small production ‘grower’ wines) and sparkling wines, local urban wineries, and many Oregon Pinot Noirs. They offer a rotating selection of over 30 wines by the glass and more than 300 by the bottle, as well as numerous wine flights. Any wine by the glass can also be ordered as half glass, so you could make your own flight or ask Ron to pair with whatever you’d like.
Flight of sparkling wine, one of two flights you can choose from at Muselet

Ron has been developing friendships with winemakers and producers in the Willamette Valley since 2004, and expanded during his past experience managing restaurants with relationships with wine sales reps, importers and distributors.

“The key for me is to truly understand their vision and passion, and to show them the respect I have for their product. I get really excited and I love introducing guests to wines that have been made with passion, where the winemakers are caught up in the romance of their craft. It’s been fun to get to know the winemaking sons and daughters of the ‘Papas of Pinot’ who started it all.” says Ron.

The payoff for you as the customer is access to some wines that are exclusive just to Muselet, or that somehow Ron found that are local and super small that you might not find them anywhere else.

Domaine Drouhin only started making Pinot Noir Rose for their tasting room in 2010. Muselet owner Ron Acierto was able to acquire a few cases of their first Roses for Jory. Because he nurtured a relationship, he is also currently the only restaurant in Portland to serve their 2014 Rose. Their production is so small, their distributor is only able to place it selectively because there is not enough wine for a public release.There are only 2 cases left of the 2014 and it is only available at Muselet.
Domaine Drouhin only started making Pinot Noir Rose for their tasting room in 2010. Their production is so small, their distributor is only able to place it selectively because there is not enough wine for a public release. There are only 2 cases left of the 2014 and it is only available at Muselet.

In fact, at Muselet they hold weekly complimentary no purchase necessary wine tasting series in their lounge every Saturday from 5 – 6:30 PM.  A winery expert will be on hand during every tasting to answer questions about each wine. The featured wines will be available for guests to purchase by the glass to enjoy at the bar, purchase a bottle to take home, or can be enjoyed as a custom wine pairing with their meal. The current upcoming schedule includes

  • March 26 Fullerton Wines: Distinctive Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
  • April 2 Owen Roe: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Oregon Pinot Noir, Washington Red.
  • April 9 Le Cadeau | Exclusively estate grown Oregon Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay
    Aubichon Wines | Oregon Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay
  • April 23 Ian Burrows of Consulon Wines | pouring wines from Boulay Wine Company, Swick Wines, and Guillén Family Wines
  • April 30 Jackalope Wines | Craft Nortwest Pinot Noir, Viognier, and Cabernet Franc
    Helioterra | Pinot Noir, Mourvédre, Pinot Blanc, Syrah, Arneis, Melon de Bourgogne, Rosé of Pinot Noir, and Riesling
  • The schedule will continually be updated and can be found at Muselet’s website

Ron explains “We like to think of ourselves as the ‘concierge of the Oregon wine country.’ We are able to customize wine pairing perfectly for every dish, plus provide some unknown wine varietals for non-traditional wine pairings. Imagine, instead of having to choose one or two bottles of wine for a meal, you can have a small pour of the wine that perfectly complements your dish.”

Here’s a look at a few other dishes on the current menu, which will change seasonally:

  • Beef tartare remoulade, dulse, vinegar chip (part of their bar/soirée menu which is what they have dubbed happy hour, available in the bar/lounge only)
  • Mille Fuille with creme, dulse, smoked cod
  • Cured Hamachi, pea, hibiscus, avocado. I marveled at every bite of that dehydrated yuzu (tofu skin) with pea in how it was a perfect addition of subtle flavor and great texture to go with that hamachi – I even was trying to separate it from that photogenic hibiscus sauce to try to focus on the perfect hamachi and yuzu pea combo.
  • Turnip with beurre monte, pickled shallot, trout roe, sake lees
  • Sunchoke with mole poblano, persian cress
  • Scallop with pork rind and red eye gravy
    Muselet Beef tartare remoulade, dulse, vinegar chip Muselet Potato Mille Fuille with creme, dulse, smoked cod Muselet Cured Hamachi, pea, hibiscus, avocado Muselet Turnip with beurre monte, pickled shallot, trout roe, sake lees Muselet Sunchoke with mole poblano, persian cress Muselet Scallop with pork rind and red eye gravy

So I think you’ve gotten the gist here: spectacular food and wine. But did you notice I mentioned feeling like a million bucks, or feeling like royalty too? That’s because the biggest impression I had from Muselet is white glove service without the formality but all the elegance and class. Ron is incredibly enthusiastic about the dining experience, and he knows it includes what is on your plate and in your glass, but also beyond that in how you are treated from start to finish.

The people at Muselet are dedicated to making each guest feel like a VIP, and genuinely want to welcome you the moment you step in, take care of you with an eye on every detail, and make sure you know you are valued and that you leave happy. You’ll feel like you had a high class dinner but everything is approachable and without the matching high class price tag. In a city where service is often casual, it’s feels so special to be pampered like at Muselet.

Which of these dishes at Muselet is attracting your eye?

Muselet Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Disclosure: I attended a complimentary shared blogger meal, but I also returned on my own and on my own dime. I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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Japan Travel: Kyoto Temples and Shrines

If you visit Japan, I highly recommend including Kyoto during your stay if you can. Kyoto was once the capital of Japan from 794 until 1868. Because of that long history as being the capital for 1000 years, you can find a lot of older buildings reflecting traditional architecture that are entire streets and neighborhoods, as well as literally thousands of temples and shrines. In fact, Kyoto has the largest concentration of designated Cultural Properties in Japan.
The Deva gate and three-storied pagoda at the entrance of Kiyomizudera Temple. Also one super fierce dragon sculpture. Details at Kiyomizudera Temple.
Details at Kiyomizudera Temple

Kyoto is also famous for its cuisine because as a city away from the sea it grew a lot of unique regional food fit for royalty, and even Kyoto water is reknown and used by many sake producers. With the combination of palaces as well as temples in its culinary lineage, you can choose from enjoying elegant kaiseki cuisine or Buddhist vegetarian temple cuisine. For today’s post, I’m going to focus first in Kyoto Temples and Shrines.

After our onsen stay and dining on ryokan cuisine for breakfast, we then spent a travel day getting from Lake Kawaguchiko by Mount Fuji to Kyoto. You can see it took a few transfers but it is a pretty popular route – so much that the entrance at the Kawaguchiko train station had this nice sign showing the main travel and transfer points.

After our onsen stay, we then spent a travel day getting from Lake Kawaguchiko to Kyoto. You can see it took a few transfers but it is a pretty popular route that the entrance at the Kawaguchiko train station had this nice sign: Kawaguchiko to Otsuki, transfer there and ride to Hachioji where we transfer again until we reach Shinyokohama (same area as the Ramen Museum I covered last week), and from there a shinkansen to Kyoto!

For us, this means Kawaguchiko (the red dot you see to the left) to Otsuki, transfer there and ride to Hachioji where we transfer again until we reach Shinyokohama (same area as the Ramen Museum I covered last week), and from there a shinkansen to Kyoto! It sounds like a lot of transfers, but checking out and catching a train around 11 AM, we still got to Kyoto sometime around 4 PM in the afternoon to relax the rest of the evening.

On our first full day in Kyoto, we decided to stretch our legs from all that sitting on the train on our travel day by doing a self walking tour of a few of the beautiful and most famous Kyoto temples and shrines. It’s so easy to walk and find a temple or shrine along the way everywhere in Kyoto that you actually need to be careful you don’t get “templed/shrined out” where you see so many they start to blur. I found the Japan Guide on Kyoto extremely helpful in planning which stops we wanted of the many options thanks to their descriptions and photos of each of the sites which are organized by districts in Kyoto.

In planning your Kyoto Temples and Shrines to visit, I recommend adding each of the destinations you are interested in into a custom Google Map like I covered previously in a how to. This then helps you create your own tour based on where everything is, and you can see exactly the distances. I tracked each option in a spreadsheet with its attributes of what made it special, hours of operation, and admission fee to help me distinguish the options until I narrowed it down to which would be on this walking tour.

I recommend adding each of the destinations you are interested in into a custom Google Map like I covered previously in a how to. This then helps you create your own tour based on where everything is, and you can see exactly the distances. I also tracked each option in a spreadsheet with its attributes of what made it special, hours of operation, and admission fee to help me distinguish the options until I narrowed it down to which would be on this walking tour.

So here is my list of Kyoto Temples and Shrines you can visit in a single day just by walking. These I am sharing today are all located in Southeastern Kyoto. I have another walking tour for visiting temples in the Arashiyama District of Kyoto in a future post. This walk starts from Kiyomizudera and goes about 3 km or about 2 miles north to Heian Shrine, but with all the sights along the way it really is an all day excursion.

Kiyomizudera Temple

Kiyomizudera Temple is famous for it’s wooden balcony that gives visitors a view of Kyoto as well as cherry blossoms and maple trees in spring and fall, respectively. Since I came in winter and currently parts of the temple are going through reconstruction, it was not the stage that stood out from Kiyomizudera for me.
The most famous part of Kiyomizu-dera temple is Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a precipice The most famous part of Kiyomizu-dera temple is Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a precipice

Instead, it was

1. Jishu Shrine is a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. Right after passing the balcony, which is super crowded, you will see stairs leading upwards to your left. You should walk pass the god of love himself, Okuninushi, and his rabbit companion, Hare of Inaba who is a messenger.
Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine has a statue of Okuninushino-mikoto, a Japanese god in charge of love and good matches and the rabbit besides him Hare of Inaba is a messenger - you saw his picture with the rabbit on some of the ema boards Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine has a statue of Okuninushino-mikoto, a Japanese god in charge of love and good matches and the rabbit besides him Hare of Inaba is a messenger - you saw his picture with the rabbit on some of the ema boards

Specifically for Jishu Shrine, there are two stones on either side that you are supposed to navigate from one to the other with your eyes closed in order to have luck in finding love. Some have people help guide them a little, which means that you will find love but with help.
Kiyomizudera Temple has Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. You can also have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well. Kiyomizudera Temple has Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. You can also have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well. Kiyomizudera Temple has Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. You can also have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well.

This area is also full of various shrines to different gods besides love to pray for other kinds of wishes, as well as various talismans varying from ema boards,  incense, omikuji (paper fortunes), etc. There are even hitogata paper dolls to “wash away” your health problems by placing them in buckets: when the paper dissolves in the water, your troubles will be cleared up.
Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine offers many different also offers various talismans, incense, and omikuji (paper fortunes) as well as gods to pray for wishes like here Daikoku Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine offers many different also offers various talismans, incense, and omikuji (paper fortunes) as well as gods to pray for wishes. Okage Myojin is the god who is believed to be a guardian deity especially for ladies. The Japanese ceders behind this shrine were used for Ushinotoki-mairi or 2AM visit where the ladies of old days would nail a straw doll on the ceder of their enemies putting a curse. Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine offers many different also offers various talismans, incense, and omikuji (paper fortunes) as well as gods to pray for wishes. Here, you write down your troubles on a hitogata paper doll and put it into the water - when the paper dissolves in the water, your troubles will be cleared up.

You can purchase charms /omamori varying from good health, long life, conception, children, to successful study to traffic safety. Unlike most temples who offer omamori, here at this shrine they have English translations for all the charms and all the altars which helps give a lot of context to what you are seeing.
Lots of charms / omamori at Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking Lots of charms / omamori at Kiyomizudera Temple Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking

2. Otowa Waterfall is the reason Kiyomizudera Temple was founded here. After going downhill from the balcony to its bottom, you will find three streams of water where visitors use cups attached to long poles that are disinfected each time using UV rays. The belief is that each individual stream of the three streams offers a blessing of long life, success, and a good love life. Drinking from all three streams is considered greedy, so make your choices carefully!
The Otowa Waterfall is located at the base of Kiyomizudera's main hall. Its waters are divided into three separate streams, and visitors use cups attached to long poles to drink from them. Each stream's water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life The Otowa Waterfall is located at the base of Kiyomizudera's main hall. Its waters are divided into three separate streams, and visitors use cups attached to long poles to drink from them. Each stream's water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life

Higashiyama District

On the way from Kiyomizudera Temple to our next temple, Kodaji Temple, you will be walking through the Higashiyama District which is a historic shopping street area, also referred to by the actual street names of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. These streets with its old fashioned storefronts has been serving those on temple visits for centuries and lets you stroll around what feels like the traditional Kyoto of old.
Kyoto - walking in the Higashiyama District, a preserved historic districts that feels like traditional old Kyoto, with the wooden buildings Kyoto - walking in the Higashiyama District, a preserved historic districts that feels like traditional old Kyoto, with the wooden buildings

Stores range from selling lots of lucky cat and other animal trinkets to ceramic kitchenware, including lots of chopstick rests that they had glued below their windows as decoration. Besides lots of little stores, there is plenty of food, from restaurants to snack stands including versions of the temple and shrine snacks I highlighted earlier in a post.

store in the Higashiyama District that had lots of cat but also other cute animal trinkets store in the Higashiyama District that had lots of ceramic kitchenware, including lots of chopstick rests that they had glued below their windows as decoration

Higashiyama District also has a whole map of various healing Buddhist statues you could seek out to touch/rub for merit with your right or both hands. I didn’t visit them all, but I found quite a few without seeking then out.  I rubbed Hotei a potbelly deity of good fortune thought to bring prosperity, Daikokuten an Indian deity one of the seven gods of good fortune that you can wish for prosperity, the Temmangu Ox said to bear your suffering for you if you touch the corresponding area of the ox, and statues of Hideyoshi and Nene which you can wish for a happy marriage like them and for peaceful remaining years surrounded by many people like Nene. It can’t hurt to touch just in case it does work right?
Higashiyama District had a whole map of various Buddhist statues you could seek out for merit to touch / rub Higashiyama District had a whole map of various Buddhist statues you could seek out for merit to touch / rub. Hotei is a potbelly deity of good fortune thought to bring prosperity Higashiyama District had a whole map of various Buddhist statues you could seek out for merit to touch / rub, including Daikokuten an Indian deity one of the seven gods of good fortune that you can wish for prosperity Higashiyama District had a whole map of various Buddhist statues you could seek out for merit - this one you could rub for health aches and pains to go away, the Temmangu Ox here is said to bear your suffering for you. If you have an ailment on your body, touch the corresponding area of the ox Higashiyama District had a whole map of various Buddhist statues you could seek out for merit. These are statues of Hideyoshi and Nene which you can wish for a happy marriage like them and for peaceful remaining years surrounded by many people like Nene

Kodaji Temple

Kodaji Temple was established in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s historical figures who helped play a part to unify Japan, by Hideyoshi’s wife Nene. What is notable about this temple is its Zen Gardens, aka the carefully maintained rock garden. It’s not as famous as Japan’s most well known Zen Garden at Ryoanji Temple (also in Kyoto), but the location in this area is more convenient to seeing a lot in one day, and still evokes the same beauty, even if interpretation of what the designs mean isn’t quite as enigmatic.

I was surprised that this was one of F’s favorite temples/shrines that we visited because he really enjoyed the moss landscaping,  and I really liked the delicate shapes in the rock garden. The peacefulness here was very inviting of contemplation and worth the small entrance fee.
Looking back at the gate from the path that led to Kodaji Temple in Kyoto Kodaji Temple in Kyoto is famous for it's Rock Garden Kodaji Temple in Kyoto is famous for it's Rock Garden Kodaiji's Tsukiyama garden with Kaizando Hall

Yasaka Shrine

Now continue walking north to Yasaka Shrine. The most distinguishing characteristic of this shrine is it’s great location not far from Gion (Kyoto’s entertainment and geisha district) and there are lots of great restaurants just outside of its gates along the streets of Shijo Dori and Higashi Oji Dori.
Yasaka Shrine Yasaka Shrine

This Shinto Shrine has lots of gorgeous lanterns that look great both in the daytime and in the nighttime (it is always open, always free). You can see since it’s close to New Year’s how the stage happens to be decorated for the year of the monkey.

Yasaka Shrine Yasaka Shrine Yasaka Shrine Yasaka Shrine

Chionin Temple and Shorenin Temple

Chionin Temple‘s Sanmon Gate is the largest wooden gate in Japan and dates back to the early 1600s. It’s on the way to our final destination for today in Kyoto Temples and Shrines. We didn’t stop at Chionin, just walked by so we can admire the entrance. If you do enter, make sure you check out the largest bell in Japan, weighing some 74 tons and cast in 1633,  it requires 17 monks to ring the bell at New Year. The temple grounds are free, but there is an admission fee to visit the gardens and the “Seven Wonders” of Chionin, one of which is  a uguisubari or nightingale floor that chirps with every footstep so no one can sneak around!
The massive Sanmon Gate of Chionin Temple, Kyoto is the largest wooden gate in Japan and dates back to the early 1600s.

We also walked by Shorenin Temple without going in (there is an admission fee). Mainly, we admired this beautiful mossy tree just outside. This temple is not as busy as the famous Kiyomizudera or Chionin, and has a tranquil, secret feel with multiple gardens and ponds, teahouse, and paintings to admire that are connected all by covered walkways between the buildings.
Mossy tree in Kyoto by Shorenin Temple entrance Mossy tree in Kyoto by Shorenin Temple entrance

Heian Shrine

I knew the Heian Shrine gates was supposed to be huge – it is after all the largest Torii Gate in Japan. I was still shocked when I could already see it down the street – way down the street, but still really visible – from the Shorenin Temple a little over half a mile away. Below, you can see how it compares in sizes to a huge tour bus and cars/people behind me.

First sighting of the massive Torii gates of Heian Jingu, or Heian Shrine in Kyoto - it's the largest Torii Gate in Japan. Built in 1929, it is 24.2 meters high; the top rail is 33.9 meters long the massive Torii gates of Heian Jingu, or Heian Shrine in Kyoto - it's the largest Torii Gate in Japan. Built in 1929, it is 24.2 meters high; the top rail is 33.9 meters long

In truth, the Heian Shrine isn’t that old – it was built in 1895 for the 1100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto (then named Heian-kyō). The buildings convey the atmosphere of the Heian Period which had artistic integration with Chinese culture. Heian Shrine is supposed to be a 2/3 scale replica of the original Kyoto Imperial Palace (now destroyed).  It was refreshing to have such a big open courtyard space to walk in after the smaller spaces of all the previous stops.
The shrine’s main buildings convey the atmosphere of elegance of the Heian Period (794-1185). In those days, the Japanese people welcomed Chinese culture warmly, and we can still find in this shrine today many features and artifacts connected with Chinese culture. The actual shrine grounds themselves are very spacious, with a wide open court at the center. Kyoto was shocked and depressed after the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1940. Later, the citizens came together to build a new city after World War II. The construction of Heian Shrine was a symbol of revival for the city. The revival consisted of the new Kyoto in education, culture, industry, and daily life, where at the same time the

We were pretty beat by this time (it was late afternoon) and I really only wanted to see the main courtyard and the giant gates, so we walked back to our lodging to relax and rest our feet before dinner after this. If you still have some wind though to keep going, there are also huge gardens to visit (the Heian Shrine is free, but there is a fee to enter the garden).

Even though the distance between Kiyomizudera Temple and Heian Shrine is only 3 km or about 2 miles, when I looked back at my phone pedometer at how many steps I took that day, it totaled 19725 steps – or about 8.75 miles!

So of all these stops I’ve shared today in Southeast Kyoto, which do you think you would most be interested in? Do you put together DIY tours in a neighborhood or area when you travel?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Marukin Ramen

Today marks the expanded soft opening of Marukin Ramen, at least at their initial location at 609 SE Ankeny. A second location is in the works at Pine Street Market. For their soft opening so far they’ve only been doing lunch service with one ramen type, but starting today their hours are 11AM  – 3PM Monday-Friday and 3PM  – 9PM Saturday-Sunday and they will offer a few select ramen choices each day. You can see the selection each day on their website. Then, on April 1st is their official opening to expand their hours and offer the full menu.

Marukin Ramen is a ramen chain in Japan, and this is their first US location . They have even imported from Japan their chef and a few staff to ensure they are authentic. Marukin Ramen’s location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light.

Marukin Ramen's location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light. Marukin Ramen's location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light.

They are offering 6 kinds of ramen, all priced at $10.
Marukin Ramen is offering multiple kinds of ramen

All the ramen utilizes their homemade ramen noodles that are made fresh every day and that are in the Hakata style, which are thin and long.  Hakata is in Fukuoka, Japan – and ramen Hakata style is one of the 3 most popular types of ramen (the big three styles are Tokyo, Sapporo and Hakata ramen).

At Marukin you can choose from among

  1. Tokyo Shoyu, clear broth made with chicken and Carlton Farms pork bones with shoyu (a special soy sauce). Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, roasted onions, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. For someone who can have meat, this is probably the lightest broth – the only one lighter is the vegan one (#6 on this list). Shoyu is the most popular and common ramen type.
    Marukin Ramen, Tokyo Shoyu, clear broth made with chicken and Carlton Farms pork bones with shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, roasted onions, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed.
  2. Marukin Paitan, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Then for your Marukin ramen flavor (ramen = broth + flavor seasoning), additionally you must choose either shio (salt) or shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. I love how creamy this is and it’s one of my favorites in the line up.
    Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan.
  3. Tonkotsu Shoyu is a creamy Carlton Farms pork bone based soup flavored with shoyu. Tonkotsu involves boiling the pork bones for a really long time to extract all the fatty richness, and it’s very common to see creamy tonkotsu pork broths flavored with shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. Hakata style ramen usually is a combo of the Hakata style noodles made and served here with Tonkotsu broth.
    Marukin Ramen, Tonkotsu Shoyu is a creamy Carlton Farms pork bone based soup flavored with shoyu.
  4. Marukin Tonkotsu Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen (#2 above). Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. This is another one of my favorites – but let me clearly warn you do not wear any light colored clothing when eating this because you will get splashes of red on you!
    Marukin Ramen, Marukin Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen with paitan Marukin Ramen, Marukin Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen with paitan
  5. Miso uses a chicken and Carlton Farms pork bone broth base and miso. Miso is a fermented soybean paste, so it offers an extra depth of earthy flavor beyond the richness you would experience with Paitan or Tonkatsu broth. Topped with greens, marinated shredded Carlton Farms pork, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, roasted onions, leeks, green onions.
    Marukin Ramen, their Miso Ramen uses a chicken and Carlton Farms pork bone broth base and miso. Topped with greens, marinated shredded Carlton Farms pork, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, roasted onions, leeks, green onions.
  6. Marukin Vegan uses a vegetable and either Tonyu a Ota Tofu soy milk based broth or Shoyu a shoyu tare based broth, made with onions, garlic, shitake mushrooms, and kombu (a kind of kelp). Topped with greens, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, roasted tomato, fried tofu, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, leeks, green onions. This is the best vegan tofu in Portland.
    Marukin Ramen, Marukin Vegan uses a vegetable and Ota Tofu soy milk based broth made of onions, garlic, shitake mushrooms, and kombu (a kind of kelp). Topped with greens, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, roasted tomato, fried tofu, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, leeks, green onions.

Ramen is eaten with chopsticks and a spoon is often provided for slurping some of the soup. Mix up all the items in your bowl except the nori – you can leave it sticking out to give you some crunchy to have between slurps. I leave the chashu usually towards the end to eat so it can help flavor the broth for a while.

Ramen noodles get soggy quickly because they start to absorb the soup and they continue to cook in the broth, so everything should be eaten immediately after they are served and finished in about 5 minutes or so while the noodles are still firm.
Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Then for your Marukin ramen flavoyou must choose either shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce).

At the end, it’s fine to pick up the bowl to drink the soup directly from the bowl – you do not need to drink the whole bowl to be polite, though it is considered a compliment to the chef.
Marukin Ramen

They don’t offer extra toppings you can order yet – it sounds like that will be something that will be added to the menu later after they get used to regular service of their menu. There are some secret homemade chili oil you can supposedly ask for as well. To start they want you to enjoy the flavors and experience it as is before customizing it.

Ramen can be a one dish meal, but there are side dishes to enjoy if you don’t want ramen, or in addition to your ramen. For official side dishes,  there are options such as Pan fried Carlton Farms Gyoza, Chicken Karaage (Japanese style fried chicken served with a little mustard), Ebi Tiger deep fried shrimp karaage style, and onigiri. I definitely will report back after trying the onigiri, which was a big staple snack during my trip to Japan to carry these rice balls in our bags on hikes.
Marukin Ramen, Pan fried Carlton Farms Gyoza Marukin Ramen, Chicken Karaage (Japanese style fried chicken served with a little mustard) Marukin Ramen, Ebi Tiger deep fried shrimp karaage style

So this isn’t quite the Ramen Museum amount of ramen styles to try that I had in Japan, but it is the best chance in Portland now to try a variety of styles of ramen. I admire that they are carefully expanding their menu as they go to not sacrifice on quality and service, and hope you give them a try and be kind about their growing into their rhythm as they are so new. You can probably expect lines, just like ramen shops that are good I’m Japan –  keep in mind that ramen is eaten relatively quickly so there should be fast turnover of seats too. The unspoken rule of ramen shops is to not linger and get your ramen fix done and leave –  sort of like eating fast food.

Which ramen do you think you want to try?

Marukin Ramen Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Disclosure: I attended a media preview but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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