DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party Popup

After the Sochi Winter Olympics in Russia in  2014, Vitaly Paley did a Russian pop up celebrating the Russian Sun Festival. It was incredible, and I was thrilled when he announced they would be doing DaNet, a Russian Pop Up experience in that same space (Portland Penny Diner) once or twice a month starting in September 2014 and ongoing. After holding off on attending until I completed the promise I made to myself to finish reading The Art of Soviet Cooking (I reviewed it as well), this past spring I finally was able to reward myself.

The DaNet dinner / Russian experience consists of 4 courses all at one seating at 6:30pm, where the food is served mostly family style. The cost is $75 per person plus gratuity, and you need to make reservations to secure your seat beforehand.

Although I found some articles at the Oregonian (“DaNet, Vitaly Paley’s Russian restaurant pop-up, takes us back to the USSR” by Michael Russell) and Portland Monthly (“Portland Monthly’s Cuisine of the Year 2014: Kachka and DaNet’s Russian Party” by Karen Brooks) praising the DaNet, there has been nothing recapping what the exact experience was – so I though I’d provide that service for you. That’s the freedom of writing as a blogger – I can go into the play by play details you wouldn’t find in newspapers and magazines (which is why I think news media and bloggers have a very complimentary relationship, not necessarily competitive). So here’s my recap from my experience on May 15, 2015. I believe that although the specific food items may sometimes change, the format is the same for each Russian pop-up experience.
DaNet palate cleanser between fourth and fifth (dessert) course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap that tastes like a slightly, subtly sweetened water

The doors of Portland Penny Diner open promptly at 6:30. When you enter, check in your reservation at a table at the front. As a reward for checking in, they offer ayou choice of one of three beverages to help tide you over as you walk towards the back of the diner to one of 3 long tables.  I was immediately charmed by the apron upon walking in, and the welcome drink immediately shifted the vibe from a typical restaurant to a family gathering or party instead.
You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in

The Russian party concept is further reinforced as even before I can get past the first table, I am offered my first zakuski as a passed hors d’oeuvre, one not listed on the menu – it was some sort of fried dumpling, a kind of beef piroshky (or piroshki? I don’t know whether it’s an i or a y…).
DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats

Meanwhile, as you walk through the long room, you can admire the tchotchkes lining the small countertop on your rightside. Real Russian traditional tchotchkes – all random decorative trinkets like nesting dolls and wooden lacquered containers that you wouldn’t actually use because they are too pretty to function. Well, except for the tea-set you see there – you will actually see that used later tonight. I always get a kick out of the political nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, and Stalin.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up- I always get a kick out of the nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, Stalin

The various decorative tchotchkes all around are the epitome of the strange mix of the traditional Motherland Russia that are remnants of Imperial Russia, as well as the era of the red Soviet Union. Neither of these personify modern Russia and Union Soviet Socialist Republics, but they are still vivid memories and indelibly part of the culture now. On your left is an impressive DaNet ice sculpture. As you head towards the back, Soviet Union era posters are on the wall, as well as lots of candles and a few Russian cookbooks.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up DaNet ice sculpture on the bar at the Russian Pop up at Portland Penny Diner Soviet Union era posters along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup Soviet Union era posters along with some Russian culinary books along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup

As you walk past the tables, look carefully for your assigned seats for your dining reservation, marked by a little sheet stating simply “xxx Party” at each of the designated seats.
DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables

Peruse the menus at your seat – one sheet lists the whole dinner so you can begin to fortify yourself for the big meal that is about to come. While the dinner menu refers to one course of “zakuski”, a second menu sheet lists the bounty of what that zakuski actually consists of and you will see that this one “drinking foods” course is actually more like 5 appetizers! You should expect this, as seems to be a Russian custom, you will be served dishes and dishes of food until you are completely and uncomfortably full.

On the back of the dinner menu are a list of optional (at extra cost from the $75 set dinner price) beverages. Should you want to partake in vodka (highly recommended), they have flights of regular vodka, as well as infused vodkas such as horseradish dill vodka, or elderberry vodka. If straight vodka is a bit intimidating (you can choose to share among your dinner party of course), consider the cocktails as the mix of other liquids in the glass help round out the punch of vodka. You can also choose instead to have a matching wine pairing flight with each course. A server will come to your table to introduce herself or himself, and take your drink order.

The first course are the zakuski, which are traditional drinking foods – aka this is the perfect time to get your vodka on. I prefer the flavored vodkas, which I think is a middle ground between the straight vodka (but the more authentic experience) and the cocktails. It is expected that you take little sips of the vodka, and bites of your zakuski.

Chef Vitaly Paley was our guide throughout the night, ringing a little bell his mother had suggested in order to get everyone’s attention before introducing each course and describing the individual food items. I wish he could have talked longer as we were eating each item so I could look and see and think about each food item as he was telling us the history of it, and more about how it was made. To me, this felt like more than just a chef listing what food was on the menu for each course, but like a tour that we were taking to a country we were not familiar with, done via food. So I kept wanting to hear more, not much different from wanting to hear the tales of the old country from your parents or uncles or grandparents.
Vitaly Paley was our guide through the courses at DaNet, the Russian Pop Up experience. Here he is chatting about the zakuski

Meanwhile, kind Chef Paley seems worried about us being hungry and waiting during these intros to the courses (except for the kulebyaka, which is is super proud to tell us about and introduce us to) and tries to not draw our attention too long with him talking. So he goes over details pretty fast so listen up when he speaks! He’s done quite  a few of these, yet still seems endearingly a bit nervous about the right amount of story to share. I understand a bit – he actually has a similar background to author Anya van Bremzen who wrote the memoir Art of Soviet Cooking I just read.  He too, immigrated from the former Soviet Union and was a concert pianist, but then ended up turning to cooking and excelling in it at an international level  (it is really weird that this is her exact story as well, though they come from different cities in former USSR. Not surprising to hear they are friends.). And from her memoir, it seems Russian immigrants have a complex love and hate relationship with the memory of the Soviet Union.

In fact, just look at the name of the popup overall, DaNet. Da means yes in Russian, and Net means no, so putting them together like DaNet (Да Нет) has a meaning of similar to “yes I agree, but no I also disagree, and even though you might think I am therefore neutral I disagree more than agree.” So the phrase together ultimately means no, a softer no than an outright no, and an illustration of the craziness of an everyday Russian phrase that uses two opposite words but still means something. Complicated, mixed feelings here! Anyway, on to the food recap!

First Course

On my dinner night, the zakuski included Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Ash roasted beet pkhali, Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar (of course this was my favorite zakuski), Salade Olivier (a Russian salad with potatoes and vegetables and mayo and whose specific ingredients vary from family to family and is listed as one of the 1001 foods to die for, just like the Blini and Caviar dish). The acidity of the various types of Solenya (each one varying in sourness) were a great counterpoint to the richness of the heavier Salade Olivier and the rich Blini you assemble yourself. If you think you don’t like beets, try the ash roasted beet pkhali anyway as you may be surprised. The Blini pancakes are generously sized like medium pancakes!
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) and Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Salade Olivier

Nope, the list for the first course is still going, the zakuski also included buterbrodi, which are open faced sandwiches with butter and other toppings – we got four different kinds, of which I can no longer read my handwriting on what I wrote what they were – but all were delicious, and I have a little heart drawn next to the duck one (the one at the very top of the buterbrodi platter in the second photo – and the only one I got seconds of).
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi, here being described by Vitaly Paley as Karen Brooks dutifully takes notes Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi

As the second bonus of the night already (still on course 1 of zakuski here), Chef Paley had brought some special garlic sausages from his last trip to New York, and generously shared it with us at the dinner, served with a bit of horseradish. I was having a hard time fitting everything on my plate!
Vitaly Paley explained this bonus zakuski (not listed on the menu) was a special garlic sausage he had brought back with him from New York. It is served here with horseradish Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Here's a look at my favorite 3 zakuski

Second Course

Time for stew. For this dinner, it was Schi Bogatye and Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings, with chives and herbs to add on top as garnish. The schi was served also with Buckwheat Rastegai (that bread with the hole at the top), and also Red Kraut Piroshki (those had no hole). The rastegai has an open center into which you traditionally could pour some of the stew – though in this case, it seemed the hole was too small for such an action.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki

It may just seem like soup with some filled dumpling bread on the side, but that schi has great texture, lots of layers of flavors, and is quite filling. And there were lots of extra red kraut piroshki on the side too – make sure you add a little spoonful of that side of sour cream to the schi.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course offered lots of Red Kraut Piroshki - at my end of the table we added the sour cream to the Schi too

Third Course

Ooof, now time for the third course. I was already starting to get pretty full, but tried to soldier on with my comrades at my table. This was a significantly important  dish. I know this because Chef Paley became Professor and proud host as he read to us from 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover’s Life List about kulebyaka, as mentioned in multiple Russian literature and food books before the big presentation. Then the kulebyaka was presented at each table for guest admiration and photos before being cut up for individual plating.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

I really wanted to take a photo as he was reading but felt bad about standing up to go to the kitchen area (only a few feet away), but thankfully Karen Brooks got up first, so I totally followed her. This is a really painstaking, ardous dish to make – Chef Paley confessed this took several days to prepare.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

Tonight, the kulebyaka came as King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings. The inside of the kulebyaka was fabulous, but I was hoping for more buttery goodness from the pastry after Chef Paley had read to us about how Anton Chekhov had described that

“the kulebyaka must make your mouth water, it must lie there before you – a shameless temptation…butter drips like tears, and the filling is fat, juicy, rich…”

So being a lover of butter, I really was looking for some more butter. Of course, I am also the type of person who empties the entire butter container when eating lobster with butter, and can eat radishes with little pats of butter. The morels were exquisite, and I saved and savored them dividing them carefully among my bites along with the accompanying heavenly roll your eyes back sauce (I wanted twice as much) and crispy viziga crackling.

The viziga is a very rare specialty, the spinal cord marrow of a sturgeon. I don’t know what trials were needed to extract this (since exact specifications were not detailed in historical recipes, and a dish this gourmet like kulebyaka or viziga would have been viewed as czarist and a target of Soviet class warfare). I don’t know  what then further mysterious technique then would transform that gelatinous delicacy into these crackling vaguely reminiscent of the best lil nuggets of fried chicken skin… But it’s mouth magic.
DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings)

Fourth Course

After a little palate cleanser between the last and this course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap (it tastes like water with a subtle sweet taste to it), came the dessert platters with tea service. The Chai black tea from Samovar comes with accompaniments like sugars and jam (!) to sweeten the tea.
Dessert course is served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

Four desserts! I don’t know if I got all these names right, so forgive me:

  • Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) – my favorite of the four
  • Bird’s Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)
  • Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem)
  • Chef Vitaly Paley’s mom’s Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka)

Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka) DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) and Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)

The final and last time my plate was full of an assortment of goodness – it started and ended that way.
DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

You can make reservations now for DaNet, which it seems for the summer is scaled back to only popping up once a month – and June has already sold out 3 weeks ahead of time! To reserve your space for July or August, contact Imperial at (503) 228-7222. See the DaNet website for more details on dates.

If you have the opportunity, II really enjoyed the way that I set the experience up for myself- that is, making myself read the Art of Soviet Cooking before coming to this popup. Reading a bit before gave me a lot more context behind so many of the things I saw and ate (in particular, Anya has her first chapter in which she talks a great deal about kulebyaka). But, I also think this is a great Russian dinner experience even without the book. The communal adventure of sitting with others and meeting/talking with them while sharing dishes family style, together learning through the guide of Chef Paley, plus the expert technical culinary execution combined with the labor of love of this complicated food… This is a Russian party that you will be hard pressed to find unless you find some immigrant friends who are willing and able to spend so many days and so much time to create these all these dishes.

Have you had Russian food before?

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Book Club: Anything That Moves: Renegade Chefs, Fearless Eaters, and the Making of a New American Food Culture

For October the selected book subject for my online book club, The Kitchen Reader, was Anything That Moves: Renegade Chefs, Fearless Eaters, and the Making of a New American Food Culture by Dana Goodyear.
Anything That Moves: Renegade Chefs, Fearless Eaters, and the Making of a New American Food Culture by Dana Goodyear

I really enjoyed this book. First of all, it really worked out in terms of timing, as I cracked the book open in the airport. The first chapter, Scavenger, which was my favorite chapter of the book, highlights immigrant food and how interesting cuisine comes out of poverty and necessity eating. At the same time, the food of the poor people is now the food being seeked out by the New American gourmet for pleasure.

This chapter focuses a lot on Jonathan Gold (of the LA Times… their food section with their large gorgeous photos sadly has no comparison in Portland, despite all the foodiness we offer) and also Javier Cabral (of the blog The Glutster). Both Gold and Cabral food coverage stomping grounds are nooks and crannies of the very city my plane was heading towards as I read this book: one of the ultimate immigrant cities in the United States, Los Angeles.

I looked longingly out the window of the car after landing as we drove by Brooklyn Bagel Bakery (mentioned by Gold as the “single source of every good bagel in Los Angeles”) but reminded myself my sister DOES live here and I had time to visit again. In fact, while reading this book in LA, I ended up visiting two of Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants during my stay, Newport Seafood (a family favorite that I previously showed off their famous house lobster) and also Son of a Gun Restaurant (in this post here).

The San Gabriel Valley area of LA, referred to casually as SGV often in the book, is covered extensively in this same chapter of the book, highlighting the specialized Asian food in the area because regional cuisines remain intact, traceable almost to the villages of origin of the restaurant owners. The SGV is also referred to in other chapters of the book. Other Asian foods, particularly the wonder of Thai Town and all it has to offer, are also mentioned in this chapter and I enjoyed hearing the love for this authentic home-cooking.

Stewed Pork Hocks: I love it, and very common in Thai food. Would you eat it? Next, Kai Jiew Kai Mod – A Thai dish of egg omelette with ant eggs. Would you eat it?
Kai Jiew Kai Mod - a Thai dish of egg omelette with ant eggs at Sticky Rice, Chicago. Would you eat it?

I’m not actually that much a fan of LA as the traffic scares me and everything is so spread out, but the food, oh the food… It is worth coming to LA for a food vacation alone, despite the distance and traffic. Gold, who the book reports drives twenty thousand miles a year in search of food, himself admits it in the book: “I go into a fugue state, like the Aboriginal dreamtime, when you go on long aimless walks in the outback,” he says, “That’s how I feel driving on the endless streets of Los Angeles County.”

I took some notes on my phone as I was reading the book of places I might check out in the future. You might find yourself doing the same thing.

In so many ways, this book really is a love letter to the food in LA, which is refreshing since so often the focus ends up in New York City. The book does cover New York (in the second chapter, Grub, about purveyors of specialty food in the gourmet industry, particularly exotic animals and insects), and also Las Vegas (in chapter 3, Backdoor Men, about the suppliers of the outrageous and obscure ingredients from truffles to caviar to foie gras and the storytelling or conning that may be involved).

Inevitably though, the book always returns to LA and California (and also Gold, who is mentioned often in the book).

Foie Gras and Caviar and Truffles, oh my
Poutine foie gras from Au Pied de Cochon Tru's famous caviar staircase/ In the caviar staircase, only four of the steps were actually caviar, the rest are accompaniants like egg whites, egg yolk, capers, and chopped onion. My brioche toast had a little bowl of crème fraîche along with. French Laundry- Carnaroli Risotto Biologico, with Castelmagno cheese and shaved white truffles from Alba. The foam you see around the risotto is truffle oil, and after the white truffle was added it was finished with melted Vermont butter.

The book also presents interesting political and ethical questions. Chapter 4 (The Rawesome Three, covering those who want raw unprocessed food, particularly dairy) and Chapter 5 (Double Dare, questioning the FDA and food regulation and how that creates conformity, and the role of corporate farms in the need for rules and regulation versus small farms) makes book readers to think about the line of government’s need to protect versus consumer freedom of choice.

There are also questions about our cultural sensibilities and environmental and animal rights stands of what is ok to eat. Chapter 7, Guts, centers around offal and the many parts of animal that are wasted in the American meat industry, including profiling one the Offal Prince himself, Chef Chris Cosentino.

Sweetbreads with Glazed Bacon/White Polenta/Shiitake Mushrooms / PDC, or Fried Pig’s Foot (Pied Cochon) with vegetables, mashed potatoes, stuffed with foie gras inside after deboning and then topped with foie gras. Would you eat these?
Sweetbreads with Glazed Bacon/White Polenta/Shiitake Mushrooms Au Pied De Cochon -  PDC, The namesake dish of the restaurant, fried pig’s foot (Pied Cochon), vegetables, mashed potatoes, stuffed with foie gras inside after deboning and then topped with foie gras

On one hand, I side with this mission to honor the sacrifice of life and use whole animal. On the other hand, this chapter is where I was disgusted at some of the extreme food concoctions that clearly are challenges for a dining as sport and bragging rights. I can admire pig snout with escargot and watercress because pigs in nature like to eat snails and vegetation near streams. But, raw venison heart on a brioche made with pig skin, and mention of a goose intestine soup Consentino called “anal-tini” is a culinary dare that crosses to way too much for me.

The much more tame meat plate of Ox‘s Asado Argentino for 2 includes Grilled Short Rib, House Chorizo & Morcilla Sausages, Skirt Steak, Sweetbreads, or Roasted Marrow Bones appetizer at Little Bird Bistro
The much more tame meat plate of Ox's Asado Argentino for 2: includes Grilled Short Rib, House Chorizo & Morcilla Sausages, Skirt Steak, Sweetbreads Roasted Marrow Bones at Little Bird Bistro

Chapter 8, Off Menu, continues that line of thought of what is ok to eat and what is not, and what defines that line, as it tells the tale of investigating a restaurant serving whale meat and horse meat.  This was the most off putting chapter for me. Also mentioned in the book is eating dog, or live octopus. But, it did make me think about how casually, particularly in Portland, we eat pork… pigs are smart animals too. There are people who keep pigs as pet. Why is it acceptable to still eat them? I have to admit sometimes that line can be arbitrary… but at the same time, I can’t shake that line.

Meanwhile, Chapter 6, Haute Cuisine, is just wicked fun (and my second favorite chapter in the book) as it covers the wild wild west feel of food culture in exploring modernist cuisine and experimenting with food utilizing marijuana as an ingredient (with several hilarious tidbits and tales). Author Dana Goodyear observes, “Food, in the foodie movement, is often treated like a controlled substance”.

No, I have no photo of any food with pot in it. All I have is this playful dish by Homaru Cantu of “Roadkill of Fowl” which is a braised duck with beets. Notice the yellow dotted lines of the road and rice krispy maggots… Actually this was a really tasty dish.
Homaru Cantu dish of Roadkill of Fowl which is a braised duck with beets. Notice the yellow dotted lines of the road and rice krispy maggots Homaru Cantu dish of Roadkill of Fowl which is a braised duck with beets. Notice the yellow dotted lines of the road and rice krispy maggots

Overall, author Dana Goodyear has a very engaging voice and keen eye. In bringing her research/observational ride-alongs throughout the book, she describes the way people look and act in a way that succinctly embodies them. She tells specific side stories and uses metaphors and similes to really bring any subject or the way food looks and smells and feels to life in a way the reader can understand.

I already liked her when in the introduction, she described herself with this short story while simultaneously providing the credentials of why she was the right writer for this book: “My relationship to food is that of an acrophobe to a bridge: unease masks a desire to jump. A well-fed child with the imagination of a scrounger, I remember holing up in the back of the station wagon eating the dog’s Milk-Bones, which were tastier than you might expect.”

Dana’s writing includes profiles of  everyone,  both big and small in this adventurous eating world. The critics, the famous chefs and staff of famous restaurants or local pop-ups, the food suppliers both grand and small (from those in suits with exquisite butters and saffron to the tweakers who may forage your mushrooms), the food bloggers, other dining guest foodies eating with her, federal investigators… all are included in her scope of view.

Because of that diverse scope of anyone in the food scene is part of the story, the food culture that Dana depicts is rich with so many real characters that as a reader, you feel that the food world described seems very accurate in parting the curtain that a normal consumer does not know.

In observing the food scene, in particular some of the more extreme food combinations, Dana functions as our eyes and ears and grounds everything more in reality. She will admit when she leaves a pop-up still hungry and need to stop to get a hot dog, or that she’s impressed, or alternately that she is afraid for her health because of a dish.

In one example in the book, she explains “that dish –  quiver on quiver on quiver – epitomized the convergence of the disgusting and the sublime typical of so much foodie food. It was almost impossible to swallow it, thinking ruined it, and submission to its alien texture rewarded you with a bracing, briny, primal rush”

I waited 2.5 hours to eat at Sushi Dai in Tokyo. The one to the right, the clam, was still moving when the chef put it down.
Sushi Dai sashimi, Sushi Dai, Tokyo, Japan, Tsukiji Fish Market Sushi Dai

I shared a lot of photos of various foods that I thought tried to illustrate some of what was talked about in the book… are there any that you would eat?

Have you visited the food scene of LA, and did you know that the San Gabriel Valley of CA was such a hotspot for food?

What do you think of how Jonathan Gold, as noted in the book, subscribes to the following translation of the county health inspection ratings which are posted by law in every restaurant: “A stands for American Chinese, B is for Better Chinese, and C is for Chinese food for Chinese”?

And if insects were presented in some of the ways written in the book from the cooking competition at the Natural History’s Museums annual bug fair (most of the judges are children because of their openness to new foods):

  • bee patties for Bee L T sandwiches,
  • tailless whip scorpions in a tempura with spicy mayo,
  • fried wild caught dragonflies with sauteed mushrooms with Dijon soy butter,
  • Ugandan katydid and grilled cheese sandwiches,
  • a spider roll with rose haired tarantula (hair burned off, don’t worry – usually spider rolls are made with bottom feeding crab while spiders eat crickets that only eat grass- one young girl declared “It’s sushi. With spiders. It’s awesome”)

would you try it?

And, because I can’t think of any other time I could use these photos (which come from an exhibit on insects at the Seattle Pacific Science Center called Insect Village)… ha. The eating cookies with insects isn’t as far-fetched as you think. In my local paper, they just ran an article about kids pondering a mealworm chocolate chip.
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I hope this has been an interesting recap/review of the book for you. For next month, the November book for the book club is Born Round: A Story of Family, Food and a Ferocious Appetite by Frank Bruni.

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