Creative Mexican by Clandestino PDX

On Monday – Wednesday you can find creative Mexican plates and glasses of intriguing wines from Clandestino PDX, a pop-up now in residence at Lil Dame by Dame Collective (in the old Beast/Ripe Cooperative space). If you haven’t had an opportunity to visit, make a date for these weekdays to treat yourself to a cozy dinner and a food and wine mini adventure.
Clandestino PDX - Left Ceviche of yellowfin tuna, guava, avocado, lime on tostadita, Right Carne tartara - beef, yuzu kosho, serrano on tostadita Clandestino PDX - Quesadillas - carnitas, quesillo, guacachile

Clandestino joined the collective to start serving up Mexican inspired dishes in December to rave review by tastemaker and written word wrangler Karen Brooks of Portland Monthly who called Clandestino Portland’s Best New Mexican Restaurant. Try to make reservations as the space in inclement weather is very cozy and with recent media coverage may even be full for the night, even on a Monday. You can see how small the open kitchen is, so they also can only realistically do only so many covers per evening. As spring and summer weather open up the outdoor seating and they dial in their menu they’ll have more capacity.

Be sure to try several half glass pours during your visit! You can trust and after selecting your dishes let the staff pour their recommended pairings – you can even ask for a different pairing per person like we did for each dish. Not only are the selections carefully curated to be all winners with the food and diverse in provenance and flavor profile, but that helps support both sides of the collective.
Clandestino PDX - part of the Dame Collective

The way it works is the food sales are kept by the chef, Dame keeps the beverage, and overhead and staff costs are split by both resident chef and Dame. So patronize both with your check! I’ve always been a fan of the pop-up model (I even used to cover pop-ups for Eater PDX) – restaurant industry life is hard in terms of long hours and margins in balancing inventory with limited shelf life. Pop-ups allow for some reasonable work time boundaries with more control of when open for business and taking breaks, and an ability to get some work life balance. It’s great business sense for the brick and mortar owners and visiting chefs and part of PDX’s supportive hospitality community.

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Summer Patio Dining at Limo

I still am surprised to see Limo with their offering of Peruvian small plates, sangria, no corkage fees for Oregon wines and their large outdoor patio not on the PDX hot list, but the better for me to enjoy a leisurely summer dinner outside on a Saturday night. I was sad to see that the delicious lamb rack I had last visit (one year ago) was not on the menu. I ended up going with mostly small plates anyway… the better to have room for dessert at Salt & Straw up the street.

We started with the Classic Ceviche of fish tossed with Limo chili, cilantro and lime juice, topped with julienne onions, which came in a generous portion. The Causa, a dish of potato mashed with lime juice, Aji Amarillo chili and spices, this one with mushrooms, was ok but although the size was more appealing than when I had causa at Andina, the flavors were blander.

Another appetizer which I added to compose my combo of small plates entree, was Anticuchos, skewers marinated in Panca chili, black mint and spices with golden potatoes and drizzled with anticucho sauce, had good flavor for the beef skewers but were chewy dry meat once you went past the outside. Yuquitas con Huancaina, Fried yucca with a yellow pepper cheese sauce, had a nice crispy air puff quality, but the sauce again seemed very mild, although I liked that it had the slightest hint of heat to it.

The Asparagus with feta and white truffle oil drizzle was perfect as is: I love when it is lots of thin asparagus as there is more area exposed to char, and the addition of the saltiness from the feta and richness from the white truffle oil enhanced the fresh soft tip and firm crunch of the asparagus. The Arroz con Mariscos Tradicional, seafood, peas and rice cooked paella style, came brimming with seafood but didn't have the slight toast to the rice that you would expect from the advertised paella style.

I was disappointed that two other small plates I wanted were out of stock that evening. I guess I'll have to try it when I return on some future visit. Next time, I think perhaps Limo could be a starting point to a progressive dinner that includes sangria and small plates in the open air patio which I think are Limo's strengths, and then move north on NW 23rd for more courses.

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Summer Sangria at Limo Peruvian

Portland is finally getting its hot summer weather- we first hit over 90 this past Saturday, and we flirt with the mid to high 80s this week. It makes you want a nice fruity cold sangria, no? In a glass that that is as generous as your water as you people watch on the outdoor patio of Limo Peruvian (Lee-mo)… Doesn’t that look refreshing?

Maybe nibble on the classic ceviche of fish tossed with Limo chili, cilantro and lime juice, topped with julienne onions.

Then follow that up with the so good you will gnaw the bones and lick your fingers afterwards the Costillas de Cordero entree, seared New Zealand rack of lamb drizzled with chimichurri and served with asparagus and quinoa. This dish was amazing, with the light quinoa offering interesting texture to contrast the young asparagus and the rich lamb, and the chimichurri (a traditional herb garlic oil and vinegar accompaniment) further helped to complement the meat.

Unfortunately I didn’t have any more stomach room to try any of the causas they offer which I saw at some other tables that looked so beautifully plated… though here’s a recipe from a segment done on a local news channel to give you an idea. Next time causa, next time… Their outdoor patio and their sangria are a secret gem that beckon me to revisit again, and I do love Peruvian food…

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