Pie Harder – Deep Dish Pizza of PDX

I tend to have mixed feelings about Willamette Weekly – sometimes it seems to a draw for trolls, other times they legitimately spotlight great local stories, including food. Earlier this year they highlighted my favorite type of pizza, deep dish or pan pizza with their article “Detroit Style Pizza is the New Hotness. We Found the Best in Portland” which ignited passionate discussion on the definition of Detroit Pizza and other regional pizzas and who has the authentic deep dish pizza of PDX. That’s probably not really a reflection of WW and more about people’s love for pizza. They followed that article up this past summer with Pie Harder, a food festival devoted to the deep dish pizza of PDX.

Ranch Pizza made my dreams come true with a mac and cheese pizza served with ranch sauce at Pie Harder 2017

Six pizza places showed off their version of deep dish pizza with sample slices of their pizza, and I ate them all. I think there were some dessert pies also available at the fest as part of Pie Harder but I had to tap out after only the savory pizza pies. If they do this event again, I would recommend it but be prepared with stretchy pants.
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My Best Chicago Pizza Picks

A few months ago, I was in Chicago very briefly for a weekend for my sister’s pregnancy announcement to the parents as well as for my mom’s birthday. Usually my visits back home have a few regular stops – White Castle, a chain not available here, on the way from the airport with their little square burgers. The local Teddy’s Red Hots hole in the wall joint near the house. And, I try to get a Chicago style pizza in, which is my favorite kind of pizza. Here’s my best Chicago Pizza Picks I generally choose from and recommend to those travelling to Chicago.

Traditional Chicago Deep Dish

For traditional Chicago style deep dish, my pick is always Lou Malnati’s. I like to get the Malnati Chicago Classic, here you see a personal size one, which includes their sausage, the specialty of the house that is made with their own blend of lean sausage, extra cheese, and vine-ripened tomato sauce on their famous Buttercrust with hint of cornmeal. They have multiple locations all over Chicago which makes it very do-able to be able to experience their pizza, and have been around since 1971. This is usually what I tell people to get when visiting Chicago over the cheesier Giordano’s (also with multiple locations all over Chicago so very do-able to visit when you are out of town) or more greasy and always packed Pizzaria Uno’s. with a wait at their 2 locations downtown (they also have two locations in northern Chicago suburbs)
One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Lou Maltani and The Malnati Chicago Classic that is a personal size here and of course with sausage, the specialty of the house. Made with Lou's exclusive blend of lean sausage, some extra cheese, and vine-ripened tomato sauce on their famous Buttercrust

Most Unique

If I have the patience, I might be willing to head towards Lincoln Park, finally find parking, and then wait in line to get in and them for them to bake this pot pie version of pizza at Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder. This is the half pounder pizza pot pie, on wheat dough. Around since 1972, they offer this individual serving of their Pizza Pot Pie using triple-raised Sicilian bread-type dough, a homemade sauce consisting of olive oil, fresh garlic, onions, green peppers, whole plum tomatoes and a special blend of cheeses, sausage made from prime Boston butts, and doorknob-size, whole, fresh mushrooms.
One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder's half pounder pizza pot pie, here with wheat dough.

Best Crust

On my last trip, I went with Pequod’s Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge. Founded in 1971, which is the third one now that is from apparently the pizza golden age in Chicago and a testament how beloved they are to each have lasted more than 40 years.

Since there is always a wait after you order for any deep dish pizza to bake (usually 30-40 minutes), you will probably, like we did, need to order some garlic bread and the appetizer combo to calm yourself as the aromas tease and torture you. The appetizer combo includes Zucchini Slices, Mozzarella Sticks, Jalapeno Poppers and Breaded Mushrooms. But soon enough, the pizza will arrive… and remember to wait a few minutes so you don’t burn your mouth!
On my last trip to Chicago, I went with Pequod's Pizza, and while you are waiting for your pizza might as well get some of this delicious garlic bread On my last trip to Chicago, I went with Pequod's Pizza, and while you are waiting for your pizza might as well get an appetizer combo as the aromas inside tease and torture you... the appetizer combo includes Zucchini Slices, Mozzarella Sticks, Jalapeno Poppers and Breaded Mushrooms Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge.

Ah, the glorious caramelized cheese crust all around… Here’s a look at the cheese pizza.
One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge. One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge.

Close up of the crust on the meat pizza!
One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge.

We had leftovers so here’s a look again at the crust in the better lighting of home. In this case I got sausage (which I like) and my brother wanted pepperoni so we also had that as a topping, but I wouldn’t waste pepperoni on this pizza as I didn’t think it was anything special. I like pepperoni on pizza when it comes out crispy on the edges which these do not, though they certainly are generous on the amount of pepperoni.
One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge. One of my 3 best Chicago pizza picks: Pequod's Pizza, which is known for how when they are laying down the cheese they overlap it on the edges and then over all the crust in the, which then melts over for this signature caramelized edge.

What is your recommendation for best Chicago pizza picks? What are your specific hometown cravings that when you visit home, you make a beeline to revisit?

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Thick, Chicago Pizza in Portland

I’ve been living in Portland for about 6 years, but I am still quite loyal to Chicago style pizza. When I went to Chicago for my sister’s wedding, there was no time for Chicago style pizza, so I had to rectify that when I returned.

I’ve generally been eating the deep dish pizza of Via Chicago, which I can conveniently find only a few blocks away from me on Saturday at the Portland Farmers Market, or at their brick and mortar restaurant at 2013 NE Alberta (I admit I haven’t visited yet). Via Chicago has a buttery like dough to their pizza that reminds me a bit of of my favorite pizza vendor, Lou Malnati’s although without all of the great Buttercrust taste that cannot be replicated because Lou Malnati’s is just legendary. The Via Chicago pie dough also is a bit reminiscent to me of Pizzeria Uno but not as greasy. The pizza goes lighter on sauce on top rather than the traditional drenched layer.

A look at Via Chicago’s pizza for comparison:
Portland Farmers Market PSU, Via Chicago, chicago style pizza Via Chicago, chicago style pizza which catered the Watch Dog release part at the Microsoft store Portland Farmers Market PSU, Via Chicago, chicago style pizza

But, there has been a new deep dish Chicago pizza entrant to the Portland scene, and I felt obliged to give them a try. Thick is a food cart located at SW 9th & Washington. They handmake all their pies, so they only have a limited supply until they run out for the day, and when you arrive at the cart, depending on what it’s in the oven, that may be your only choice. For instance, when I stopped by they only had their sausage pizza ready.

Because these pizzas are thick deep dish, they all take longer to heat – this is true getting Chicago pizza in Chicago, so no different here in getting Chicago pizza in Portland, so keep that in mind that there will be a slight wait for your hot slice too.
Thick pizza cart, serving Chicago style pizza much like Giordano's Thick pizza cart, serving Chicago style pizza much like Giordano's

One thing Thick has over Via Chicago is the heft of the true Chicago pizza – one slice weighs down the small pizza to go container and takes up the whole thing. It also has the generous layer of tomato sauce and gloopy with cheese that you would expect from a true Chicago pizza on top, so that you are forced to eat this pizza like a pie, with a knife and fork. If you try to pick it up, it will just flop with its heavy load of toppings. This is unlike the Via Chicago pizza, which you can still pick up.

In my opinion, the dough for the pizza is not as good as Via Chicago because it’s not as buttery, but when it comes to all the toppings, Thick gets it exactly right, especially the tang of that tomato sauce and the thicker crust that you can eat like a chewy breadstick reward, something Via Chicago lacks. To me, the Thick pizza is reminiscent of Chicago pizza classic Giordano’s.
Thick pizza cart, serving Chicago style pizza much like Giordano's

As extra credit, Thick also offers Chicago style hot dogs! If you don’t want to risk missing out, call and pre-order.

Honestly, I would recommend either of these deep dish Chicago pizza places to get your fix in Portland. If you are Chicago-an like me, hopefully my examples that compare them to the pizza joints in Chicago can help you decide which one you want to try!

Thick pizza cart, serving Chicago style pizza much like Giordano's

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A Visit to Chicago

In for a surprise party, we stayed at the Marriott downtown so we could convieniently visit some of our old and new Chicago stops. Our lunch stop was F’s favorite Thai restaurant (he would order from them sometimes 2-3 times a week until his office moved out of their delivery area), Garlic and Chili Thai. Despite being gone to Portland for 3 years, the owner/chef still remembered us. We started out with the very light fried tofu served with sweet and sour sauce, topped with ground peanuts. We have not found a fried tofu that is less greasy and as lightly fried as these. Then, the other two standby plates of Massamun Curry with coconut milk, white onion, carrot and potato, and Pad Se-Ew, stir fried wide rice noodles with eggs, broccoli and carrot in sweet soy sauce. On the wall was a sign from Grubwithus celebrating their Pad Thai… which we realized we had never even tried. Next time.

We met up with some old friends at Beer Bistro, where we enjoyed their conveyer belt fans and beers (and $5 martinis) until the fact it was IPA day and the launch of Hopothesis brewery made the place so packed (although our waitress was very attentive, making sure to check on us even though the place was super slammed), we retreated from the West Loop to Randolph street and Haymarket Pub & Brewery. Our last stop for those of us with alcohol endurance was The Aviary, with their cocktail kitchen and showmanship presentations of said cocktails (as well as little bites) clearly inspired by Aliniea and El Bulli, with a stop at G Cue Billiards while we waited to get in at Aviary. If it hadn’t already been so late I might have allowed a few games of pool, and I wanted to get to Aviary.

The next day, I really needed something to calm my stomach… and as I was also craving Chicago style deep dish pizza, that meant Lou Malnati’s. Since the pizzas take 30-45 minutes to fire up, we started with an appetizer of Stuffed Spinach Bread: “A Malnati creation, this crusty handmade loaf is served fresh out of the oven, stuffed with a delicious blend of cheeses, fresh spinach, garlic, onion and chunks of tomato”. This sucker is filling, which is even though we ordered individual 6″ pizzas we only were able to finish half of it- well, more for later! We had the “Lou” with Fresh spinach, mushrooms and sliced tomatoes covered with a blend of mozzarella, romano and cheddar cheese, and also the “Malnati Chicago Classic” which uses its specialty of the house, Lou’s lean sausage, along with some extra cheese, and vine-ripened tomato sauce” with both pizzas of course on their famous Buttercrust.

Our hotel was next to the Purple Pig, so of course I had to visit. Most stomach capacity was filled up by Lou Malnati’s, so two glasses of wine and two appetizers were all I had. I started out with what I wanted so much that I was willing to brave the 1-2 hour wait (longer depending on size of your party, obviously, and it as a Fri night so this seemed fair as they take no reservations… and you could order drinks from the bar and wait outside, at least soaking in the Chicago River scented breeze) but lucked out with a place at the bar: Burrata Pugliese with Peas, Radish, Celery, Spring Micro Greens & Aceto Balsamico. Delicious! From the Smears section of the menu, Pork Neck Bone Gravy with Ricotta was complex in flavor but the fact it was a hot dish and the weather was so unbearably hot and humid made it less appreciated. I only wish I had more room at the time for more food.

Thanks Chicago!

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