Nel Centro

Nel Centro is one of those hidden gems of a restaurant. Most people don’t think to go dine or hang out at what is the restaurant of a hotel – and in many cases they are over priced, serving food for business expense accounts that are American staples generic enough to please any traveler.  But yet, you can’t deny that Imperial of Hotel Lucia and Departure and Urban Farmer of The Nines break that mold by pushing that envelope to bring good food that can comfort after a long work day but also allow creative license to wow you with deliciousness in new ways. It helps that Hotel Lucia and The Nines are boutique hotels – and so is Hotel Modera, which is where Nel Centro resides.

Nel Centro is also cousins with Hotel Eastland, home of the trendy Altabira Tavern by the Oregon Convention Center I’ve written about earlier. Hotel Modera is in Southwest Portland but still walkable to downtown, and located perfectly by theaters like Keller Auditorium and Arlene Schnitzer as well as PSU and the museums by the South Park Blocks.
Nel Centro Nel Centro

I don’t like to always advertise Nel Centro and how I adore their fire pit outdoor patio, mostly because I don’t want competition for those seats in the evening while sipping cocktails. So can I encourage you to go for lunch, dinner, or to their brunch that takes reservations…
Nel Centro firepit patio Ol Man River cocktail with Burnside Bourbon, Calisaya, and Bitters, inspired by the Portland Opera’s 2015 run of Show Boat.

Nel Centro specializes in cuisine of the French and Italian Riviera, bringing you options that are light and classic but the simplicity still promises plenty of flavor. For an authentic Italian Riviera touch, I enjoy that they offer foccacia as part of the complimentary bread service with dinner.
Complimentary foccacia with your meal at Nel Centro, reflecting its French and Italian Riviera cuisine

Perhaps start by sharing the Mussels with Garlic and Parsley available at lunch, happy hour, and dinner. There’s so many mussels included in the bowl they barely fit.
Mussels with Garlic and Parsley at Nel Centro, available at lunch, happy hour, and dinner Mussels with Garlic and Parsley at Nel Centro, available at lunch, happy hour, and dinner

For lunch or happy hour, there’s also this fantastic Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Pizza which would be great to share with 4 or more as a starter – it has lots of bold full flavors. Or make it your main dish at the bar.
Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Pizza at Nel Centro, available at lunch and happy hour Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Pizza at Nel Centro, available at lunch and happy hour

Meanwhile, a starter especially for happy hour and dinner service is this Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique. This is a winning dish – I can eat this one all by myself.
Happy Hour and Dinner only starter at Nel Centro of Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique

They change their cocktail options seasonally, but also create special drinks to go with the theme of various theater productions. For instance, everyone at my table enjoyed The Magic Flute cocktail, a special creation for the Portland Opera Prosecco, Nardini Acqua di Cedro, Grapefruit Bitters – even someone who said she doesn’t usually like sparkling wine!
The Magic Flute cocktail at Nel Centro, a special creation for the Portland Opera with Prosecco, Nardini Acqua di Cedro, Grapefruit Bitters

For the current Sweeney Todd production of Portland Opera, they have crafted the Sweeney Todd cocktail with Bulleit Bourbon, Luxardo Marschino, and Creme de Cacao.
Nel Centro Sweeney Todd inspired cocktail of the Sweeny Todd with Bulleit Bourbon, Luxardo Marschino, and Creme de Cacao.

Other drinks from productions in the past are still in the rotation by popular demand, such as the Ol’ Man River cocktail with Burnside Bourbon, Calisaya, and bitters, inspired by the Portland Opera’s 2015 run of Show Boat.
Ol Man River cocktail with Burnside Bourbon, Calisaya, and Bitters, inspired by the Portland Opera’s 2015 run of Show Boat.

I usually skip right past the salad section of a menu, but the Nel Centro salad of Roasted Beets with Baked Ricotta, Arugula, Orange and Hazelnuts is seriously perfect. I appreciate the ratio of their fresh cheese to everything else to, don’t you? I’ve been loving this salad combo since 2011, believe it or not as proved by this previous blog post. Just for lunch, you can also imagine yourself at the French Riviera with the Grilled Tuna Niçoise Salad.
The Nel Centro salad of Roasted Beets with Baked Ricotta, Arugula, Orange and Hazelnuts is seriously perfect. I appreciate the ratio of their fresh cheese to everything else to, don't you? The Nel Centro salad of Roasted Beets with Baked Ricotta, Arugula, Orange and Hazelnuts is seriously perfect. I appreciate the ratio of their fresh cheese to everything else to, don't you? The Nel Centro salad of Roasted Beets with Baked Ricotta, Arugula, Orange and Hazelnuts is seriously perfect. I appreciate the ratio of their fresh cheese to everything else to, don't you?

Another Italian Riviera famous dish is pesto – so you should give serious consideration to their lunch and dinner option of Spaghetti with Kale Pesto, Almonds and Pecorino. I like saving some of the complimentary focaccia at dinner to eat with the pesto so I can really pretend I’m there in Italy.
Nel Centro Spaghetti with Kale Pesto, Almonds and Pecorino Nel Centro Spaghetti with Kale Pesto, Almonds and Pecorino

At Nel Centro they make their pastas daily, so you won’t go wrong with other great pasta bets like the Spinach and Ricotta Tortelli with English Peas and Lemon or the Pappardelle with Braised Lamb Shoulder and Smoked Pecorino, both also available at lunch and dinner. OK OK I confess I pretty much want ALL their pasta dishes.

Spinach and Ricotta Tortelli with English Peas and Lemon from Nel Centro at lunch or dinner Spinach and Ricotta Tortelli with English Peas and Lemon from Nel Centro at lunch or dinner Pappardelle with Braised Lamb Shoulder & Smoked Pecorino at Nel Centro

In addition, at lunch Nel Centro offers a selection of intriguing sandwiches varying from Spit Roasted Pork with Mostarda di Frutta to one with Rotisserie Chicken with Bacon and Herb Aioli, Albacore Tuna Melt on Levain with Raschera cheese, or Fried Eggplant with Tomato Jam & Feta Cheese for the vegetarian. Seriously, one of the best and classiest business lunch options you can pick.

Meanwhile at dinner, the sandwich sections shifts into a heavier main entrees that include Rotisserie Chicken, Spit Roasted Pork Chop, Halibut, Grilled Skirt Steak or Grilled New York steak, or Lamb Shank.

For brunch, not only can you get the Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique, Rotisserie Chicken sandwich or Spit Roasted Pork Sandwich that I mentioned above, but they have a Poached Eggs on Griddled Polenta with Cured Pork Loin & Sage Hollandaise. Yes. This particular poached eggs on polenta with pork dish is available every day to jump start your morning since it’s also on their normal everyday breakfast menu. It’s one of the things I love about hotel restaurants – I don’t have to always fight it out at brunch if something I love is on their regular breakfast rotation anyway.

This year marks Nel Centro’s seventh anniversary – congratulations! – and this milestone helps reinforce how they have been doing well all along, even without your knowledge. But now you’re in the know with me too.
Happy Hour and Dinner only starter at Nel Centro of Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique along with the Ol' Man River cocktail with Burnside Bourbon, Calisaya, and bitters, inspired by the Portland Opera’s 2015 run of Show Boat. Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Pizza at Nel Centro, available at lunch and happy hour

One thing I should warn you is that it’s best to visit after the theater crowd leaves since there is a big hustle to get them in and out quickly that changes the airy open atmosphere – unless of course you are a theater goer yourself, then this will work out as they are experienced in making sure you will get to the show on time.

Which of these dishes intrigues you? Have you heard of or been to Nel Centro before?

Nel Centro Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Disclosure: I attended a complimentary bloggers/media dinner, but I also returned on my own and I have been at the restaurant several times previously. I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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Renata – First Look

You may have seen that yesterday that the Oregonian, besides publishing a huge list of Portland’s 101 Best Restaurants, also named the 3 top restaurant awards for 2015. They dubbed Xico Cuisine of the Year, and Kachka the 2015 Rising Star Restaurant. And then, in a ballsy and perhaps purposely controversial move (and therefore generating lots of buzz and chatter and readership, which probably is half the point of the article anyway rather than just providing information), named 2015 Restaurant of the Year as Renata, who has only been officially open since the beginning of June (soft opening for a couple weeks before that).
Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors

I myself have still been deliberately waiting to write on what I think of Renata. I had eagerly been anticipating the opening of Renata back when it was still pop-up Project Grace, and so far had an opportunity to visit Renata a few times already. But, I was waiting to see what Renata would really be like when the rubber meets the road… and now with this announcement their test of execution of kitchen and service has been quickly accelerated. You will want to make reservations – they accept OpenTable Renata if you are trying to go now given the new buzz.

The dining space at Renata is airy and open. There are some tables of 2, and then these “Y” tables that can accommodate in different configurations larger parties or partially communal eating. It reminds me of restaurants I’ve seen in LA, where there is a bit of see and be seen to the dining scene .

Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these

On one visit I would take turns gazing lovingly on the food, paying attention to my dining companion, and glancing over to see what Andy Ricker at one table and Jeffrey Morgenthaler at a different table were eating and drinking while also being charmed watching the children of owners Nick and Sandra Arnerich eat at a counter with Sandra’s mother – 3 generations enjoying Renata. My visit on May 27 was also the same day Stephanie Yao Long took all those photos you saw accompanying the article announcing Renata as 2015 Restaurant of the Year so I got to watch that as well – I assumed it was for their “First Look” article (yes, I’m totally in a few of those photos).

And, Renata has a fabulous patio, if you are prepared for dealing with no shade on a cloudless day. Since this photo they have added one large patio umbrella in the middle so you still get lots of sun.
A look at Renata from their small parking lot, facing their patio Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these

I appreciate how the bar faces windows, and most of all, not only do they have purse hooks under the counter but also outlets to charge your phone if you have your power cord handy! Thank you for your thoughtfulness, thank you.
Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord. Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord. Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord.

The back away from the patio has mirrors, making the interior seem more spacious, and the whole restaurant fills with light thanks to the floor to ceiling windows/door. The wall between the patio and the restaurant are door panels that Renata can choose to open to let the breeze in, if they wish to, so the entire patio and restaurant can become one flowing space.
Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors

The patio is going to make this such an attractive al fresco lunch and dinner spot this summer and however long the weather cooperates until the rain comes. They canceled plans for now to host lunch service given how busy they are after the press
Renata patio Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon; Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments; Renata cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture

I don’t want to really review them until they have been open a bit longer, but thought I’d share the food photos at least to entice you… and to maybe explain why Michael Russell named them Restaurant of the Year, even though there is barely any write up out there on them yet.

The menu is divided into small plates which are in a box to the right side of the daily printed menu, with a section for Stuzzi or Bites, Tavola or Boards, and Antipasti. Next, in the main eating ring are half a dozen Primi Pasta dishes, a handful of Hearth/Grill dishes and Forni/Oven pizza dishes from their brick oven, and a couple Contorni/Sides.
Menu on May 27 2015 for Renata Menu on May 27 2015 for Renata

There is also a bar menu that doesn’t even capture the creativity tempered by incredible balance that is coming out. For instance, here is the cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger. I loved taking sips of the sweet and sour beverage and then little bites of the spicy ginger.
Renata cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger Renata cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger

Here is the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt. I was not expecting and loved the touch of the melon ball with a mint skewered in it.
Renata cocktail of the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt Renata cocktail of the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt

On the slightly stronger sipping side but just as delightful as the Sicilian Advantage is this Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda. You can use the spoon to take a little taste of the sorbet before it melts and becomes a contribution to the drink profile.
Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda

Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank’s 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg
Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank's 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank's 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg

Or go classic and citrus with this cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture
Renata cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture

From the Stuzzi or Bites section, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo which has turned into other crudite/vegetable options based on what they desire to serve.
From Stuzzi section at Renata, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo From Stuzzi section at Renata, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo

The Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili was a perfect mix of crispy and soft and disappeared quickly. Don’t be scared off by the trotters in the name, you might be able to trick your dining companion (I was sorely tempted) if you do not explain what trotters really are.
From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili

For something lighter if the day is hot, consider the Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon or whatever crostini they are serving.
Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon

My bread recommendation would be though from the Tavola or Boards section, where you should order the Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote. Make sure you ask if they have the porcini butter, because that alone makes this worth the price.
From the Tavola section at Renata, Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote From the Tavola section at Renata, Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote

Also from this section is the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments, which is pretty substantial and that melt in your mouth meat needs to be shared.
Renata Menu selection of the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments is pretty substantial Renata Menu selection of the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments is pretty substantial

From the Antipasti section, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde. This dish updates based on what is fresh, so on another visit the Smoked King Salmon was accompanied by beets, horseradish, blackberries and pistachios instead, and another visit showed raspberries instead of blackberries.
From the Antipasti section of the Renata menu, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde From the Antipasti section of the Renata menu, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde

From the Primi section, the pasta types change often, though there is usually a cavatelli, tagliatelli, toasted flour paccheri, squid ink chitarra, and agnolotti. On one visit, I had this Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels. On another visit, the Carrot Top Cavatelli now had lamb sugo, AHD why, and morels.
From the Primi section, the Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels From the Primi section, the Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels

The Isabelli Scarpinocc is a signature dish here, here with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts is perfect. You will want to carefully consider and appreciate each perfect pasta parcel of deliciousness – don’t rush through the dish. It’s not going to be a family style Italian heaping dish – the serving is exactly that of a primi, to be enjoyed but not fill you completely so that you can’t get to the mains.
Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata

No photograph, but the Squid Ink Chitarra is another recommended pasta dish, a little scary looking with its dark inky bowl of shadows, but bursting with layers of flavors (the version I tried included salumi cotto, clams, and English peas). If you see an unusual pasta combo, take the plunge (for instance, below the Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts). Matthew Sigler is making magic with all the pastas, no matter what they are. YOU MUST ORDER A PASTA! MUST!
Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts

From the Forno section, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic was tasty, but I can’t say it currently ranking among the top 10 in Portland – only time will tell what they can do.
From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic

I’ve only had one grill/mains. At almost $30, they were pretty pricey and getting the smaller dishes and pastas seemed like a better value – the exception I made was for the Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree. I had read they had purchased a whole cow, so I was anticipating when it would finish aging and be ready for a dish. That meat was melt in your mouth.
From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree and side of sauteed turnips and greens with chili and lemon From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree and side of sauteed turnips and greens with chili and lemon From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip pureeFrom the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto

Also not photographed or ordered were the Ancient Heritage Dairy cheese plate – I’ve had AHD cheeses for many years from the Portland Farmers Market at PSU on Sat, and am so excited to see them being able to create more in the same building housing Renata. You can peek into the windows to see the production facility that rivals the viewing station at the Seattle Pike Place Market Beecher’s Cheese storefront – I hope that the other storefront I see still in progress will house easy access to some of the AHD cheese as well as Alma Chocolate in that last retail space.
Production area for cheeses of Ancient Heritage Dairy Production area for cheeses of Ancient Heritage Dairy

The private dining room for Renata lets you look at some of that delicious cheese on one side of the wall!
The private dining room for Renata lets you look at some of that delicious cheese in progress by Ancient Heritage on one side of the wall!

Dessert, particularly the gelatos, are a surprise of flavors. For instance, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam with lovage and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I’ve seen include Malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread. Don’t be afraid of anything at Renata, it may blow your mind

Dessert from Renata PDX of Gelato, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I've seen include malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread Dessert from Renata PDX of Gelato, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I've seen include malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread

Dessert of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle was light and easily sharable.
Dessert from Renata PDX of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle Dessert from Renata PDX of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle

And then, here are these adorable mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata
Mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata Mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata   Salted chocolate chip cookies with whey that came with the check at Renata Salted chocolate chip cookies with whey that came with the check at Renata

All what you saw above was not during any visit where Renata was at capacity, so my meals were leisurely. The service as among the best I have seen in most restaurants, where each staff member feels responsible to make your experience the best it can be. There’s no asking for something and the staff member says they’ll go get your server. If they see a dish is empty, or your water glass only half full, they will take the initiative to clear your table, to get a pitcher to refill your glass, to ask make eye contact to see if you need anything but otherwise continue their watchful stroll looking where to help.

In Portland, it’s not often I see this attentiveness but yet unobtrusiveness. At the same time, I was never there on a Fri or Sat night when the restaurant was bustling – part of the reason why this is not yet a review. But, I can see what the Oregonian saw – the incredible potential where all Renata needs to do is continue to be at this level – to earn Restaurant of the Year. Ever since my first visit I’ve mentioned Renata to anyone looking for a recommendation – the starters and pastas and cocktails I’ve experienced thus far have me crushing on Renata pretty hard.

What items seemed interesting to you from the Renata menu? What do you think of a restaurant not yet 1 month old being named 2015 Restaurant of the Year? If you want to go, make sure you  make reservations!

Renata Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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