Book Review of Yes Chef by Marcus Samuelsson

For October the book club selected reading is Yes, Chef: A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson and Veronica Chambers (chosen by Amanda of Omar Niode Foundation).

I found this Chef memoir surprisingly different in that Marcus from the start had such a unique perspective. His journey starts with the circumstances of becoming an orphan in Ethiopia to his adoption and warmth of his family in Sweden to his journey in joining the culinary kitchen world through Europe and then his immigration to the US via his entry point of New York City.

His viewpoint is different from other chefs in that he doesn’t come off as a work hard party hard type of person, even as a young man. He does hang out with friends and there are mistakes –  including life changing ones. He humbly works hard –  he’s extremely driven all his life to strive to be the best – and pays his dues as he learns and strives. You often will find yourself more frustrated for some of what he goes through in obstacles then it seems he does  –  from the screaming chefs above him to paying his life savings to own his name again.

His start as an aspiring athlete in his youth keeps him off of drugs and gives him an incredible discipline and ethic I don’t often see in Chef memoir –  maybe because he can remember more clearly than others. At the same time, Marcus has always during his life been aware of his outsider status –  both railing against it and discrimination against his skin while also accepting and embracing it.

Marcus is great in particular in being able to step outside a situation to see the why behind the actions of people, good and bad. As he travels and explores new cities and new kitchens, he is always observant of the patterns and connections.  He does talk about food, but even more so he shows how food is a connector to all people and it echoes his own desires to communicate himself and cultures of people through the food he creates.


My only minus is that the book seemed to putter out at the end –  maybe the events are too recent and fresh to have gotten as much reflection as earlier in the book. He spends a lot more detail about people from his earlier days than those in his current such as the surprising lack of story of falling in love with his wife versus during kitchen peers during his apprenticeships in his youth.

But overall, my book review of Yes Chef cam be summarized as that his stories of his struggles and efforts –  the journey to success when he became his own man after Top Chef and opened his own restaurant –  are a worthwhile stories to know about finding your place in the world and perseverance.

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month.

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Review of Relish: My Life in the Kitchen by Lucy Knisley

A while ago, I was finally able to pick up the book Relish: My Life in the Kitchen: Lucy Knisley from the Multnomah County Library, as suggested by my book club with a focus on food, The Kitchen Reader. This book is more unique of the food memoirs we have read because it is a graphic novel. Yes, that means every page was picture cartoons just like a super thick comic book!
Cover of Lucy Knisley's Relish: My Life In The Kitchen

Published in April 2013, this book is about 12 chapters detailing various memories in author Lucy’s life so far and always alongside her vivid food memories. Each chapter also includes a recipe which is illustrated in showing the ingredients and steps. Each chapter is only  a handful of pages although each page is often chock full of drawn details in a panel here or there.

  1. The Kid In the Kitchen – how Lucy’s childhood from birth has been surrounded by food thanks to her foodie family. Recipe: The Dent Family Patented Marinated Lamb (from her maternal grandfather).
  2. Country House City Mouse – her transition as a seven year old to living in the country from Manhattan to upstate New York when her mother divorced Recipe: Mom’s Pesto
  3. Tough Cookie – how cookies were the first thing she made and are a comfort Recipe: The Best Chocolate Chip Cookies
    Cookie Recipe illustration from Lucy Knisley's Relish My Life In the Kitchen
  4. Junk – how despite her parents gourmet view, she loves and supports indulging in junk food Recipe: Carbonara
  5. Getting Ours – A vacation to Mexico with her mom, mom’s best friend, and childhood friend Drew and how they both grew up in different ways during that trip and also discovered so much local food Recipe: Huevos Rancheros
    Huevos Ranchos exploded view by Lucy Knisley in Relish: My Life In The Kitchen
  6. The Craver – how Lucy and her mother both have cravings Recipe: The Way Mom Makes Mushrooms (sauteed!)
  7. On Foreign Soy- how traveling to Japan with her mother opened her eyes through food Recipe: How To Make Sushi Rolls
    A step from how to make sushi rolls from Relish, by Lucy Knisley
  8. The Apple Doesn’t Fall Far From the Cheese – How her mother worked with cheese and other food jobs and how it influenced Lucy Recipe: Cheese Cheat Sheet
  9. Recapturing Croissants – Lucy’s college summer trip and how a croissant in Venice made a strong memory Recipe: Sangria (because making croissants is too much work – and she admits she gets them premade from the can!)
    Relish, by Lucy Knisley
  10. Dining with Zeus and Demeter – the difference between her relationship with her father and food and her mother and food Recipe: Summer Pickle Recipe
  11. When Bad Food Happens to Good People – retelling of the worst thing she ever ate but how the food itself is only part of the experience Recipe: Shepard (Fairey) Pie, a vegetarian shepherds’ pie
  12. Molecular Goodbye – Lucy says goodbye to Chicago where she went to school and stayed and returns home to New York, but not before observing the kitchens of Alinea Recipe: ok, none here but in the afterward she includes photos of her family from her research, and in the forward she has a illustrated recipe for Spice Tea

My general review of Relish: My Life in the Kitchen is that I enjoyed the graphic novel. Similar to me, Lucy has a great love of food but in a casual, cheerful way that appreciates great food while also being very open and humorous in sharing details of her memories and being able to see the perspective of others in her story.  Lucy, and the people she includes in her stories, all seem charming and she clearly has great affection for not only food, but everyone who has helped contribute to all her life experiences.

Each chapter is short, like a story being told at a table during a shared meal, so you can digest a couple in a sitting making this a great choice to read while commuting. Though it might make you crave certain foods with her vivid descriptions and enthusiasm in her book.
Lucy Knisley illustration of a croissant from Relish: My Life In The Kitchen

Lucy has several other graphic novels available:

  • French Milk focuses on a trip in her early 20s with her mother to France published October 2008
  • An Age of License, a travelogue of eating and cats as Lucy travels was published Sept 2014
  • Displacement is her most recent book from Feb 2015 and covers traveling with her grandmother on a cruise
  • An upcoming book to be published early 2016 is Something New bringing together her fun and charming perspective, love of food, and wedding planning.

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. The November book is the classic The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters.

Would you read a foodie graphic novel memoir? What is one of your strongest food memories?

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My Review of Lunch At The Shop

I’ve been taking a little break from my online, food-related book club since this year I’ve joined two other book groups (I also read from Blogging for Books, and a women’s book club at work). But I’m back to the Kitchen Reader club this month with my book club review of Lunch at the Shop: The Art and Practice of the Midday Meal by Peter Miller (chosen by Emily of Highly Social Media).
Lunch at the Shop: The Art and Practice of the Midday Meal by Peter Miller

My high level review of Lunch At the Shop is that it really promotes an intentional lunch. Peter’s definition of this means

  • Communal lunch with others (in this case with the employees of the bookshop he owns) where everyone shares stories
  • Lunch is fresh which means preparing all or part of it at your workplace. Part of the reason for this is also to shift from your normal work tasks to a craft operation and shift into a different mindframe from your normal workday actions and decisions.

The purpose of this is to take back part of your workday to make it personal and a pleasure. He promises it will make the food better, your relationships better, and it does make a difference in improving your day by reviving you at the mid day point.

One of the fun things about reading this book for me is that I’ve been to Seattle several times, and particularly some of the shops that Peter mentions so it was very easy to picture exactly the ingredients he mentions. His location near Pike Place Market is probably too good to be true for most people, and it will likely take slightly more work to gather some of the items purchased from stores since it will entail visiting specialty stores which are more spread out for a normal person rather than within a few blocks from work or from various employee’s home or commute.

There are plenty among his more than 50 recipes that are simple, yet offer wonderful taste in the combination.

Recipe for Lentils folded into basil, spinach, and basil from Lunch at the Shop, by Peter Miller Photo by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton
Recipe for Lentils folded into basil, spinach, and basil from Lunch at the Shop, by Peter Miller Photo by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton

Part of this I think is because of his crucial notion of layering. He defines this as

It is a touch, a finish, and it makes all the difference in the world in any cooking. For the purpose of lunch, it is quite specific: a second or third touch to what you are presenting, the signal that someone, moments before, chose and arranged and set the plate. It is personal and specific… The layering may be no more than a handful of parsley or chives, a grind of black pepper, a little Parmesan – all quite simply a sign of life.

He explains that layering means a Horizontal Touch to add details next to what you are serving, or a Vertical Touch to build upon the structure of the dish with elements. Examples he uses are just adding a slice of orange and a little goat cheese on the side of lentil soup, or fresh Parmesan, parsley, and cracked pepper on a reheated pasta.

It was beautiful and dreamy to me as he described Parmesan falling like snow on soup or bread (or a dusting of Parmesan out to an edge of a salad… he clearly really loves Parmesan), or a spoonful of beans alongside a sandwich that you then wipe the oil left behind with the last bite of bread, or how “chives love the slow-talking goat cheese or the white face of a potato”.

Phases like those pepper throughout the book, as well as call out boxes where he just tells a personal story about an ingredient. This made the book very likeable reading for me. It really was clear how much he loves food and ingredients, and how a communal lunch, even in talking about what’s in the lunch, can invoke tales that bring people together.

Some of the recipes can totally be assembled at your work desk, while others are started at home and then a few select items are finished at the office. He often uses bread, beans, lentils, or pasta as a solid base. It was particularly the use of lentils that I earmarked several recipes. I love lentils but as he notes, it is not often remembered to be used even though is is, as he calls them, ” a noble assistant to many foods and a trusty backpack to many vegetables.” Fortunately, he eats them at least once a week so had several suggestions of lentil combinations.

Lil' Wares Poware Bowl with lentils, cilantro mint cashew sauce, black tea peach chutney, beets and paneer Heathman Small Hot Plate of Carlton Farms Pork Cheek with squash puree and chive beluga lentils
When was the last time you had lentils? Some memorable lentil dishes of my past include this Bowl with lentils, cilantro mint cashew sauce, black tea peach chutney, beets and paneer and also this dish of Pork Cheek with squash puree and chive beluga lentils

Other great tips I got included

  • taking leftover pasta from dinner to work the next day and folding in a creamy soup or cup of hot chili with a little cheese, parsley, and lemon to rejuvenate it
  • adding leftover rice into soup or salad
  • the idea of instead of making sandwiches with sliced breads from a buffet of meats, using smaller rolls so you can make each one different – one with chutney, one with mustard and ketchup, one with horseradish and mayo so you can experiment
  • he even has a way to really upgrade sushi in those containers with plastic grass with some lettuce and easy homemade dressing

I really enjoyed the book. Like most books I read for Kitchen Reader, I borrowed it from the library to read it and started taking photos of certain recipes I liked. Then I gave up and realized I was taking too many photos and should just buy the book! I found the book very inspirational to move away from restaurant leftovers or cafeteria food. I look forward to trying to make my lunch at work – though I’m not sure I will go all the way towards communal lunches yet.

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. For me, it is always interesting to read the round-up of reviews at the beginning of the month and see what other members have thought, and even when I haven’t made the round-up, it adds more food books to my list to read.

I did read the previous two books from the previous two months – Delicious by Ruth Reichl and Relish by Lucy Knisley but haven’t had time to create posts on those yet. I enjoyed both those books in a mixed way, so hope to get into details of that in the future.

For October the book club selected reading is Yes, Chef: A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson and Veronica Chambers (chosen by Amanda of Omar Niode Foundation).

What do you think about the premise of the book about more intentional lunch, and do you think you could practice it?

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Review of Food: A Love Story

I got a bit busy the first quarter of 2015, so temporarily dropped out of my online book club the Kitchen Reader (plus I was reading some books for Blogging for Books). But, I’m back with the book club this month of May, especially as I had a hand in suggesting the book for May 2015 (well, one of 3 people who wanted to read the book! For May we have the Book Club Review of Food: A Love Story by Jim Gaffigan (chosen by Vicki of I’d Rather Be At The Beach, Stephanie of Kitchen Frolic, and myself)
Food: A Love Story by Jim Gaffigan

The reason why I think Food: A Love Story appealed to so many of us is that it’s a book about food from  a stand-up comedian, and how often do you read a book about food that is amusing because it pokes fun while loving food? Jim admits he doesn’t really have any qualifications as a food writer. He has no background in professional cooking or working in the industry, he even shys away from calling himself a foodie because he doesn’t go on culinary escapades or seek out new restaurants or interesting dishes.

Instead, he calls himself an “Eatie”. He admits he doesn’t research food destinations in determining where to eat when he travels – he just asks for recommendations from locals and hopes for the best. At the same time though, he also admits that he often finds himself thinking about he will eat while in the midst of eating.

He thinks the best food adviser is someone

“pudgy or just a little overweight. This makes it clear they have a somewhat unhealthy relationship with food, but not a clinical problem. They are eating beyond feeling full. Sure, I am describing my own body type, but that’s why I am qualified to write this book about food. What other credentials do you need, really? Stop being a snob. Read the book already.”

If that introduction to himself isn’t enough to charm you, let me also state you should read his book especially because while he humbly says he is just an every man of regular food, Jim is humorously observant and insightful at recognizing how food makes people feel while also making fun of food culture and how food is so intertwined in our lives.

For instance, he observes in the chapter Proud American

“There are many elements that make up the American attitude towards food, but some are consistent. There always seems to be dissatisfaction with, and constant need to improve upon, the status quo of food. Americans are never satisfied when it comes to a food item… It’s the new American Manifest Destiny. We are the ones who for some reason needed a potato chip that tastes like steak and Jim Beam Jalapeno-flavored sunflower seeds.”

Ruffles Deep Ridged Classic Hot Wings inspired by Buffalo Wild Wings Lays Cheddar Bacon Mac & Cheese chips

Or, about our attitudes towards all you can eat buffets:

“If the buffet is twenty bucks, you must eat at least twenty dollars’ worth of food. If you eat more food, you make money right?… When I approach a buffet, aside from seeing it as a challenge, there is a compliant part of me that hears ‘all you can eat’ and says ‘Okay, I will try my best, I don’t want to let you down, buffet’.”

Gala buffet at midnight on Thursday (Day 6 of cruise) on Royal Caribbean Grandeur of the Seas. Gala buffet at midnight on Thursday (Day 6 of cruise) on Royal Caribbean Grandeur of the Seas. Some of the offerings of the snack table.

There are 60 some chapters in this book, which is about 300 pages long, so each chapter is at most only a handful of pages, which is great for flipping through to read chapters in any order you want before bedtime, on a plane, on the beach, under the trees digesting between plates at a picnic at the park, maybe a lunch break… And, it could be a great book to listen to while driving as well because of the short nature of the chapter.

Each chapter is very conversational and storytelling in tone, and you will often find yourself smiling, maybe even laughing. Pretty much what you would expect listening to a stand up comedian, but you are reading instead. Each chapter is a fun, easy read and you will probably find yourself reading several chapters in a sitting.

That said, this is not the kind of book that you just read straight through – it is better to get doses at a time. For instance, you might find several chapters in a row about being fat, and several about general unhealthy eating, and then several on types of specific food item (steak, pizza, hot dogs, reubens, gyros, cheeseburgers, fries, vegetables, fruits, bottled water, bacon, cheese, ketchup, cake, etc. He is very thorough, haha!), then various types of dining experiences from restaurants, fast food, food courts to food delivery.

It’s like each chapter is a segment of a stand up show and depending on the audience reaction he either keeps riffing on it or moves on to a new topic. Depending on your feelings about a topic some may work with you – some may not – just give another chapter a try. It’s just finding that one comment or observation to get you to crack a smile.

My favorite chapters when I read the book were

  • The Buffet Rule
  • Not Slim Jim
  • The Geography of American Food, plus the ensuing chapters that explore each of those regions
      • Seabugland
      • Eating BBQland
      • Super Bowl Sunday Foodland
      • Steakland
      • Mexican Foodland
      • Wineland
      • Coffeeland

    Food: A Love Story, Jim Gaffigan's Food Map

  • Salad Days
  • The Cheeseburger – America’s Sweetheart
  • Museum of Food
  • The Royal Treatment
  • My Longtime Companion
  • Looking for Mr. Goodburger
  • Breakfast: A Reason to Get Out of Bed
  • The Bagel: My Everything

What do you think of Jim’s definition of foodie and eatie? What do you think defines a foodie, and do you identify with being a foodie or not? Would you call yourself an eatie? How would you identify yourself in terms of food?

If you are interested in Kitchen Reader check out the link!The gist of our casual online book club is there is a new book selected for every month. Each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. It’s interesting to read the round-up of reviews at the beginning of the month and see what other members have thought of the same book.

The next books in our list are:

  • June 2015: The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food by Dan Barber (chosen by Melissa of Melos bookshelf and Emily of Highly Social Media)
  • July 2015: Delicious: A Novel by Ruth Reichl (chosen by Amanda of Omar Niode Foundation and also myself)
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Book Club: A Homemade Life

For December’s book club pick, we were free to read any cookbook we wanted or highlight a favorite standby.  So, I picked out A Homemade Life: Stories and Recipes from My Kitchen Table by Molly Wizenberg, otherwise known as the woman behind the blog Orangette (and fellow Pacific Northwest citizen- she lives in Seattle and has a restaurant there Delancey). I thought it would encourage you to read the book. I want to also visit her restaurant next time I’m in Seattle (and, I want to read her next book, Delancey: A Man, a Woman, a Restaurant, a Marriage).

A Homemade Life

I don’t know if this really counts as a cookbook, though it does offer 50 recipes. It’s just that instead of the traditional just all recipes with beautiful photos, these come with lots of stories with each recipe. I guess it’s a book-cookbook.

What I love about this is that instead of photos to entice you about each recipe, the book offers a little slice of her life and the emotional connection of what this recipe means to her – and which can also persuade you just as much as a styled photo.

She is writing exactly as the posits in her introduction: “When we fall in love with a certain dish, I think that’s what we’re often responding to: that something else behind the fork or the spoon, the familiar story that food tells”.

This is a book I like to revisit. All the chapters are short- just a handful of pages each- which made this book very much like one of short stories. It does proceed chronologically from first being introduced to her family and father in her youth, her adult awakening in Paris, the crushing passing of her father (I got teary-eyed on the plane as I was reading it and had to put it down for reflection/calming down in public), and then her romance with the man who would become her husband. There is a certain formula to each chapter, revolving around a personal memory that is told and then ending the chapter with a related recipe from that story.

That’s a very high level summary- but what really sets Molly apart in her writing is how personal she makes each story in a vulnerable and honest way that touches the reader and takes you with her. I did get teary eyed at some chapters of the book, and felt exhilarated with a sense of adventure and like I need a trip to Paris at other times.

A lot of the recipes do happen to be desserts, and I’m not really a baker so I didn’t bookmark those, but there are some savory recipes as well, and many are pretty homey and easy- such as one with Pain Au Chocolat (more like a formula of bread and chocolate), or another for buckwheat pancakes or french toast or a scrambled egg with goat cheese. She introduced me to eating radishes and butter with a sprinkle of good salt.

Other examples she shares include:

  • Her dad’s potato salad (Burg’s Potato Salad)
  • Custard Filled Corn Bread
  • Her mom’s Blueberry-Raspberry Pound Cake
  • Coeur A Le Creme with Raspberry Puree (haven’t seen that in a long time!!)
  • Hoosier Pie (a pecan pie with chocolate and bourbon)
  • Vanilla Bean Buttermilk Cake with Glazed Oranges and Creme Fraiche
  • Rum Pie with Graham Cracker Crust
  • Bouchons Au Thon
  • Roasted Eggplant Ratatouille
  • Italian Grotto Eggs
  • Slow Roasted Tomatoes with Coriander – which she recommends with many things, be it cheese souffles or pesto pasta or in a sandwich with basil, arugula and goat cheese. You can make them into a pasta sauce, or just eat with crusty bread and wedge of blue cheese. She also offers a recipe for Slow Roasted Tomato Pesto.
  • Fennel Salad with Asian Pear and Parmesan
  • Butternut Soup with Pear, Cider and Vanilla Bean… and more!

There are so many recipes that put together unique combination of flavors but are prepared simply. The one I decided to try and share with this book review is from a chapter where Molly writes about cream, and the accompanying recipe is for a Creamed Cabbage. I and never heard of such a thing, so had to try it. A creamed vegetable side dish sounds wonderful for the holiday month and the fact it is winter anyway. This recipe is typical of many in the book where it is simple but thoughtful and filling.

Cream Braised Green Cabbage

This recipe calls for a small cabbage, as Molly notes small ones are often sweeter and more tender than their big-headed siblings. You can certainly use any size you want, as long as you make sure each wedge is no thicker than 2 inches at its outer edge, and only use as many wedges as fit into a single layer in the pan, so the cabbage cooks properly. I walked around the whole Farmers Market trying to find the smallest one and only found a medium one, so that left me a wedge after I filled the pan for a future wedge salad. Molly also notes that you can try this recipe on halved or quartered Brussels sprouts.

Can you imagine a face on this head of cabbage from the Farmers Market?

Ingredients:

  • 1 small green cabbage (about 1 1/2 pounds)
  • 3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
  • 2/3 cup heavy cream
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Directions:

  1. Prepare the cabbage by pulling out any bruised leaves, and trim its root end to remove any dirt. Cut the cabbage into quarters, and then cut each quarter in half lengthwise. When you but, make sure you keep a little bit of the core in each wedge to hold the wedge intact so that it doesn’t fall apart in the pan. You should wind up with 8 wedges of equal size. Again, make sure that each wedge is no thicker than 2 inches at its outer edge. You will only use as many wedges as fit into a single layer in the pan so the cabbage cooks properly.
  2. In a large (12-inch) skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage wedges, arranging them in a single crowded layer with one of the cut sides down. Allow them to cook, undisturbed, until the downward facing side is nicely browned (the more brown the more sweetly caramelized), 5 to 8 minutes or to your liking of brownness . Then, using a pair tongs (I used tongs and a spatula), turn the wedges onto their other cut side to brown.
    Cabbage getting browned in the pan for a Creamed Cabbage Recipe
  3. When the second side has browned, sprinkle the salt over the wedges, and add the cream. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid, and reduce the heat so that the liquid stays at a slow, gentle simmer. Cook for 20 minutes, then using tongs, flip the wedges. Cook another 20 minutes, or until the cabbage is very tender and yields easily when pierced with a thin, sharp knife.
  4. Add the lemon juice, and shake the pan to distribute it evenly. Simmer, uncovered, for a few more minutes more to thicken the cream to a glaze that loosely coats the cabbage. Serve immediately. Molly recommends serving with salt at the table, but F is not a huge fan of salt so we went with lots of cracked pepper instead.

Easy vegetarian side dish: recipe for Creamed Cabbage Easy vegetarian side dish: recipe for Creamed Cabbage
I have to admit visually, the Creamed Cabbage perhaps isn’t quite as pretty as other creamed vegetable dishes (I’m thinking particularly of creamed corn and spinach). However, the flavors are so good it is worthwhile to make this dish. The cabbage becomes sweet and nutty. And this dish is so easy to do – not much prep, and easy to manage as a side dish while multi-tasking other dishes in your kitchen.

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. Except for December which is open-ended, it’s interesting to read the round-up of reviews at the beginning of the month and see what other members have thought!

For January the book club selected reading is Food Gurus by Stephen Vines. It’s a book about food gurus and is more of an anthology of exploring various people and trying to understand what makes them a food guru: their recipes, the personality, the circumstance, etc.

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