Nodoguro Harajuku Theme

I’ve written about Nodoguro themed dinners and also Noduguro Hard Core Sushi Omakase before, and I won’t retread the old material of my love and devotion to their depth of flavor layering, beautiful artful presentation, thoughtful construction of textures and how it works with the theme and as a progression of dishes, how every new theme (every month and a half or so it changes) is a shift in the restaurant decor that transforms it in new creative ways every time.

Instead, let’s go straight to dinner. As always, there was a printed menu at each place setting for me to add to my Nodoguro menu collection – this one was printed on both sides with the courses listings one one side and a little Harajuku illustration on the other
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

I was fortunate enough that for this dinner, I also got to be reunited with the Three Hungry Broads, and sat next to Mike the Firefighter. We had an amazing time all together chatting and eating, and I also enjoyed meeting the Latino sisters + brother group to my left who were also super fun. Never feel like you can’t come enjoy Nodoguro without a partner – go ahead and come solo, you’ll have a good time meeting new food friends!
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

OK, I lied, let’s check out the new decor first before the food.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

The theme for this visit was Harajuku, which is a neighborhood in Tokyo known for fashion and being a gathering place for urban Tokyo youths from their teens to 20s and the hip culture and trends they embody.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

On the counter between where we ate and where the chefs plated food were a few set up scenes with fashion dolls with big blinky eyes and posed onstage, at a pink piano, or with the backdrop of their fabulous apartment.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme HarajukuNodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku  Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

I loved this idea where the Nodoguro staff dressed up and took a fashion photoshoot on the streets of Hawthorne right by this pop-up restaurant (currently next to Pastaworks until January 2016 – not sure if they will keep the space or move when Pastaworks closes at that time). Each photo really did look like it was lifted from an Asian fashion magazine.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

Ok, now dinner.

Course 1: Sea Bream with Citrus and Wasabi

I always enjoy having a clean, fresh start of sashimi to dinner. As for the sake pairings, the first of the flight was actually the Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Petillant Naturel 2014, a naturally sparkling rose that I drank before I even took a picture of its beautiful strawberry colors (I’ve had it before though at the Hardcore Sushi Omakase dinner).

Sea Bream with Citrus and Wasabi

Course 2: Ankimo and Ground Cherry

Recently, Portland Monthly listed Nodoguro as the 2015 Restaurant of the Year, and described Mark Wooten pictured here helping to plate this dish as “house farmer has a Mad Max haircut and GQ looks”. Also helping to plate is quiet and intense Colin Yoshimoto.
Plating a Nodoguro course is Mark Wooten, house farmer has a Mad Max haircut and GQ looks Nodoguro plating here assisted by Mark Wooten and Colin Yoshimoto "Also

And the silky mouth melting foie gras of the sea, ankimo (monkfish liver) combined with the other secret/not so secret treasure of ground cherry and the fun pop of that roe. I thought this was great with the Ohyama (Big Mountain) Tokubetsu Junmai Sake that offered a bit of sweetness, a bit of grain, floral, and dryness to add more layers of flavor to this course. Another sake that is just too easy too drink and enjoy.

Ankimo and Ground Cherry

Course 3: Curry Mackerel Sunomono

Chef Ryan made the curry vinegar here and I was thrilled to see such a hefty seafood in the sunomono (more acidic salad course) this dinner with the cured then grilled mackerel. Curry dishes are a common regular Japanese food that is very affordable and hearty.

Curry Mackerel Sunomono Curry Mackerel Sunomono

Course 4: Winter Squash Chanko Cup

Chankonabe is usually a huge hearty one pot stew – think HUGE pots – served to sumo wrestlers as part of their weight gaining diet, and is served in restaurants sometimes operated by retired sumo wrestlers. The more senior wrestlers eat first at the table, and then the next rank down, and next rank etc down to the juniors so I guess this mini version would be what’s left for us from the original giants.

Winter Squash Chanko Cup Winter Squash Chanko Cup

Course 5: Banana Fish with Walnut

With the dehydrated bananas and fish and walnuts I wondered how this was going to work out, but it was fun – fresh and a little sweet that reminded me a bit of the feeling of hope and youth and being a good kinda nutty different that is in Harajuku among the people who hang there. The dish was working well both as an homage to the now defunct Japanese Fashion Brand Banana Fish and it’s creative spirit.
Banana Fish with Walnut Banana Fish with Walnut

Course 6: Yum Yum Yummy Pork

This dish is a reinterpretation of a gyoza – in Harajuku you can find Harajuku Gyoza, a restaurant devoted completely and totally to only serving Japanese dumplings (usually they are pork). Ryan has ditched the dough outside to let the skin shine for crispness instead and focus on the rich pork belly in the slightly sweet sticky sauce.
Yum Yum Yummy Pork Yum Yum Yummy Pork

I don’t recall exactly when the Shirataki Junmai Ginjo Jozen Mizunogotoshi was poured, but the mildly floral and fruity sake was gone pretty quick and is so light that anyone would enjoy it. I think I complained to Mike that I needed a second of it. And third.

Course 7: Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado

Another one of my favorites for the evening was this fun and bright Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado and that delicate coriander flower inspired by takoyaki, a street food version of Octopus Balls without the batter and brightened in flavors.
Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado

Course 8: Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake

There’s always a rice course, and here it is in the form for this dinner of futomaki rolls with delicate buttery matsutake mushrooms on one end and homemade pickled veggies from Phantom Rabbit Farm on the other.
Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake

Course 9: Eggs & Things Omelet

The tamago, sweet and light and with all those little layers pressed in, is the sign it’s time to end the meal with dessert and tea approaching…
Eggs & Things Omelet Eggs & Things Omelet

Course 10: Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream, Tea

An interpreted twist on the crepes you get at stands in Harajuku filled with fruit and cream and sometimes a whole slice of cheesecake. I had no idea this flavor combination of Corn and Apricot could and would work. That’s why I love coming back, to see the new little food adventures I may experience with combinations in entirely new ways that work by the geniuses here.

And soybean flour us a truly underappreciated underused topping for ice cream –  it adds a roasty flavor and contrast of dry texture to a frozen cold dessert that’s marvelous. Here, it does double duty to be a nod to the thin crepe that usually wraps the Japanese creme cone dessert.

My sake here, the Tsukasabotan Yamayuzu Shibori, is perhaps maybe my third such little cup of what Ryan called the sake version Mike’s Hard Lemonade upgraded, but I’ll give it more class and say like a limoncello with such strong Meyer lemon notes that the 5 of us (Broads, Mike and I) indulged in with lots of laughs.

Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream

Thanks for another fabulous dinner Nodoguro!
Tea at Nodoguro with a Harajuku friend Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

The themed dinners can be reserved by purchasing prepaid dinner tickets at NodoguroPDX for $85 for 9 courses plus tea service which does not include gratuity and beverages (you can pay via cash or credit card via Square reader there).

Which course do you think most interests you? What do you think of how Elena brought the Harajuku theme to life in the Nodoguro pop up space?

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Nodoguro July 2014 Tanabata Mitsuri

Another month, another dinner recap, so here’s me reporting in with the Nodoguro July 2014 menu.

Pretty much Nodoguro PDX is part of my monthly budget now. The menu changes every month, and I don’t know any other place I can get this kind of experience and level of complexity of flavors in any Japanese restaurant in Portland. Every menu, even from week to week or day to day, changes based on the produce availability and freshness of the ingredients, so if I don’t go that month, I will never see that combo again. Damn you Ryan.

Even though this is a pop-up in the Evoo space, Elena does an amazing job transforming the space each time with simplicity and grace and warmth based on that month’s theme. What a supercouple.

A peek at Elena of Nodoguro PDX on the bottom right and some of the colorful lanterns in the Evoo space A peek at Ryan talking to one of the guests at the Nodoguro pop up

Lovely decorations by Elena, and one of the sake curated by Carl for the dinner Lovely decorations by Elena, and a peek at Mark in the upper right

Add in the unique produce from Mark of Phantom Rabbit Farms who is providing so many of their ingredients. Apparently they just sat down with some coffee with a Japanese seed catalog and oh, decided what to grow all year. Psssh. These geniuses. Check out the Phantom Rabbit Farm website for their series of farm dinners – I hope to visit sometime.

Oh, and then there are the additional drinks from Carl Donheiser (he wasn’t at my July dinner and was missed, though it was his menu). It’s no wonder that Michael Russell named Nodoguro one of the best pop up restaurants in Portland that cumulatively add up to the Oregonion’s Restaurant of the Year.

For this dinner, we got to write wishes that we then tied onto a tree Each month, along with a change in theme is a new painting by Elena's dad for Nodoguro!

I don’t know what else to say but to share the photos.

The Menu for Nodoguro July 2014

Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium
Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium

Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus

Nodoguro July 2014 Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus Nodoguro July 2014 Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus

Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper

Nodoguro July 2014 Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper Nodoguro July 2014 Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper

Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso

Nodoguro July 2014 Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso Nodoguro July 2014 Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso

Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard 

Nodoguro July 2014 Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard Nodoguro July 2014 Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard

Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom

Nodoguro July 2014 Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom Nodoguro July 2014 Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom

“Bento”  with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don 

Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don

Dashimaki Tamago

Nodoguro July 2014 Dashimaki Tamago

Frozen Koji cream with hazlenut and raspberry syrup

Nodoguro July 2014 Frozen Koji cream w/ hazlenut, and raspberry syrup Nodoguro July 2014 Frozen Koji cream w/ hazlenut, and raspberry syrup

“Young momoji” Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea

Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea

Besides Nodoguro now on my regular pop up circuit, I have Holdfast, Laangbaan, and DaNet on my wishlist to try out.

Have you been to any pop up restaurants in Portland yet? Which ones?

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Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Menu

Very cruelly, I am about to share you the food porn photos of the dinner from Ryan Roadhouse’s heavenly pop-up, Nodoguro. The Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Menu is no longer available- he is doing a new one for July. But, I hope this will encourage you to purchase reservations for one of his just announced pop-up dates in July, all starting at 6:30pm, of

  • Tuesday July 8
  • Wednesday July 9
  • Tuesday July 15
  • Wednesday July 16

Like in June, the space Nodoguro will be using is that of Evoe/Pastaworks on Hawthorne and includes nine courses for $85, gratuity and alcohol not included. I love the use of this space as it is very intimate in being able to watch him work and ask question. I also adore how with just a few simple decorations, they have been so successful at evoking a restaurant feel even though I know they just “popped” in, and successfully reinforced the firefly theme.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, a Portland pop up specializing in Japanese by Ryan Roadhouse Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, a Portland pop up specializing in Japanese by Ryan Roadhouse Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, a Portland pop up specializing in Japanese by Ryan Roadhouse

There is a new theme each month. Honestly, it doesn’t matter because whatever the theme, whatever he is serving, I am there. You will see below why- and don’t forget that I also went to his first Nodoguro Popup dinner and had a different menu in May that I recapped here.

Anyway, I am going to have a hard time explaining how exquisite this dinner was. I was impressed by the execution that was high in technique, precision, and thoughtful melding of flavors and textures that definitely called back to me the great care that chefs in Japan have. It’s a little disorienting every time I looked behind the counter and saw young Ryan softly explaining how one component of a dish consisted of 5 ingredients and 5 steps and yeah, those are just the greens that go with the eel. Every ingredient has been carefully and with great intention included in any dish.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, a Portland pop up specializing in Japanese by Ryan Roadhouse Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, a Portland pop up specializing in Japanese by Ryan Roadhouse

For this experience, Carl Donheiser of Pastaworks created a special menu of alcoholic beverage service for the dinner that included some wines, sake, and a cocktail. The cocktail I had was the Nashi Sparkler with Cremant de Loire, Genki-Su Asian Pear drinking vinegar, Kumquat
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, drink menu by Carl Donheiser of Pastaworks Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, drink menu by Carl Donheiser of Pastaworks. This cocktail is the Nashi Sparkler with Cremant de Loire, Genki-Su Asian Pear drinking vinegar, Kumquat Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, drink menu by Carl Donheiser of Pastaworks. This cocktail is the Nashi Sparkler with Cremant de Loire, Genki-Su Asian Pear drinking vinegar, Kumquat

Course 1: Squid Somen with Dashi and Radish Pods
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner
So there in the above photo you see Ryan separating out the squid for the first course of the menu… this was one of my favorites because the flavor was a great light start but the texture was soooo cool. The radish pods, like many of the produce, comes from Phantom Rabbit Farms (check out their website for their series of farm dinners!).
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Squid Somen with Dashi and Radish Pods Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Squid Somen with Dashi and Radish Pods Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Squid Somen with Dashi and Radish Pods

Course 2: Oysters with spring garlic and citrus
I would eat these all summer long if I could.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Oysters with spring garlic and citrus

Course 3: Chawanmushi topped with Dashi soaked Ikura and Wasabi
I still love chawanmushi, whether hot or cold. This is a cooler presentation because of the fish. I also always feel like I’m being given a present. The soft custardy feel of one egg against the pop of the other egg is just incredible.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Chawanmushi topped with Dashi soaked Ikura and Wasabi Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Chawanmushi topped with Dashi soaked Ikura and Wasabi Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Chawanmushi topped with Dashi soaked Ikura and Wasabi

Course 4: Green Strawberry sunomono
The little palate cleanser course. Ryan can put that aged miso just on rice and I would empty the bowl. I was pleased to see I was not the only one that after finishing the things you could pick up in this mini salad dish marinated in vinegar, picked up the bowl and drank the rest of the liquid.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Green Strawberry sunomono

Course 5: Cherry smoked black cod with miso jam and soba
One of my favorite courses. Who am I kidding, half the courses of this menu were my favorite courses. The play of the big smoke that yet did not overwhelm the delicate fish flesh and crispy skin was melt in your mouth and alluring.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Cherry smoked black cod with miso jam and soba Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Cherry smoked black cod with miso jam and soba

Course 6: Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner
Now, time for the most stunning presentation of the whole evening which consisted of all art on every plate. I couldn’t resist doing a whole photoshoot even though I really really also wanted to eat it.
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper

Course 7: Sake poached Eel with cucumber and myoga

I always love eel, but I was surprised by how much I was smitten by those blanched greens which had been then dried, kissed by dashi and dusted with wasabi. The myoga here is the pink pickled Japanese ginger blossom
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sake poached Eel with cucumber and myoga Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sake poached Eel with cucumber and myoga Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sake poached Eel with cucumber and myoga

Course 8: Sweet Dashi omelette
And now, the start of the last two courses, desserts. It’s always delightful how both savory sweet this is
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sweet Dashi omelette

Course 9: Sterling Tiramisu
Everyone was rolling their eyes in ecstasy after taking a bite. There was silence. And then another small spoonful of it, it was such dessert sex. This was Ryan’s take on a tiramisu, although he admitted that as he made it, it kept getting farther away from an actual tiramisu except for the layers and the his original inspiration, the Sterling Coffee espresso reduction. Which was sinfully deep and dark, a counter to the lightness of the cheese cake (which was almost like panna cotta) and the texture and nuttiness of the toasted soybean (kinako).
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sterling Tiramisu, with a cheesecake and Sterling espresso reduction Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sterling Tiramisu, with a cheesecake and Sterling espresso reduction Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sterling Tiramisu, with a cheesecake and Sterling espresso reduction Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner, Sterling Tiramisu, with a cheesecake and Sterling espresso reduction

Tea Service: Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea
I am not usually a fan of sweet bean paste because it’s so dry and chewy. But, taken with tea like this, and just a few bites, and this version wasn’t as chewy, I did like how it brought a traditional close to this incredible meal.
Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea

I’ll be at Nodoguro PDX dinner in July. After all, I think it is currently the best Japanese omakase cuisine here in Portland. Will you try Nodoguro? What do you think of the courses of the Firefly June menu?
Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Theme Dinner

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