New Year’s Eve in Japan: Oji Fox Parade

Last year in December 2015, we spent Christmas and New Year’s in Japan. I’ve already covered previously some of the amazing Winter Illuminations that you can see during the winter season and that they have the lights not just for the December timed holidays. I also recommended that the winter season is a great time to visit the snow monkeys in the hot springs, and since winter is more clear a perfect time to stay at an onsen with a view of Mt Fuji. If you are there specifically during New Year’s time, I want to now add the recommendation of checking out a unique New Year’s Eve in Japan event of the Oji Fox Parade.

Unlike in the United States and many other countries, New Year’s Eve in Japan is not celebrated with big parties and fireworks and midnight kisses. You can find some parties at establishments that cater more to foreigners – for instance we stopped by a beer bar seemed to have a lot of expats and English speakers. Goodbeer Faucets, located only a few blocks away from Shibuya station in Tokyo, usually is already a fun visit with their 40 taps of beer. For New Year’s Eve, they were hosting a Drink It All Party where as their taps started to kick (aka become empty of that beer) the cost of all beer overall that evening would decrease. Pretty fun idea for a bar party.
On New Year's Eve 2015, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend On New Year's Eve 2015, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend

New Year’s time in Japan is one of the most important holidays of the year. It’s seen as a time to prepare a fresh clean start, and time to be with family. On New Year’s Day itself, millions visit the shrines to pray for luck and a good new year. For some that may include lining up on New Year’s Eve not to party, but to just stand in line to await visiting the shrine as soon as it turns midnight.

In Tokyo, there is an area called Oji (serviced by a conveniently named Oji Station). According to a local folk tale, foxes gather in this Oji area from all over Japan on New Year’s Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit a shrine located here called Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event. It shows the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year’s Eve to pay homage to Inari, Shinto god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did.
There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event showing the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year's Eve to pay homage at the Ōji Inari shrine, the headquarters of the Inari cult that centers on the god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way to Ōji, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did. There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event showing the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year's Eve to pay homage at the Ōji Inari shrine, the headquarters of the Inari cult that centers on the god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way to Ōji, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did.
New Year’s Eve Foxfires at the Changing Tree, Ōji by artist Utagawa Hiroshige

Every year on New Year’s Eve, a Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held that goes from Shozoku Inari-Jinja Shrine and Oji Inari-Jinja Shrine.
Doll version of the parade. According to a local folk tale, foxes gathered the Oji area from all over Japan on New Year's Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held every year since 1993 in an effort to integrate old culture into the new community. Shrine-goers parade the streets holding chochin lanterns representing the light of life and the light of hope, and wishing for the sound growth and happiness of the children. Doll version of the parade. According to a local folk tale, foxes gathered the Oji area from all over Japan on New Year's Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held every year since 1993 in an effort to integrate old culture into the new community. Shrine-goers parade the streets holding chochin lanterns representing the light of life and the light of hope, and wishing for the sound growth and happiness of the children.
Doll version of the Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade displayed by Oji Station

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Japan Travel: Snow Monkeys in Hot Springs

One of the favorite things I did during my trip to Japan in December was visit the Snow Monkeys of Nagano. Specifically, there is an area called Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park (also known as Shigakogen, although the park is not in the ski resort area of Shiga Kogen but at the base of the Shiga Kogen region). At the park you can encounter wild Japanese macaque who while living up to their name in that they live in the mountains where there is snow, also find respite from the cold by bathing in natural hot springs. There are other various areas and attractions on Japan that also feature snow monkeys, but only Jigokudani Monkey Park has the additional bonus of the snow monkeys bathing in a spa.
Me and snow monkeys at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park

Visiting Jigokudani Monkey Park is something you can easily do as a day trip from Tokyo, but it does involve a couple hours of travel time. You can also choose to stay in the area overnight, where besides seeing monkeys in hot springs, you can enjoy hot springs in onsen yourself in the nostalgic spa towns of Shibu and Yudanaka, or go skiing. Nagano is part of the four prefectures that make up the Japanese Alps with majestic peaks, multiple ski resorts, and seven cities full of sightseeing opportunities including Matsumoto Castle, Daio the largest wasabi farm, snow huts in Kamakura , or the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route you may have seen photos of with roads featuring towering 20 meter high walls of snow on both sides.

How To Get Here

You can take a tour from Tokyo to Jigokudani Monkey Park (地獄谷野猿公苑 Jigokudani Yaen Kōen) or if you have a JR Pass you may want to book the one from Nagano instead and get to Nagano yourself via JR bullet train, aka shinkansen, since that will save a lot of money with the pass. Or do as we did, and do everything on your own time.

Getting to Nagano should be pretty straightforward from Tokyo or whatever city you start from as the shinkansen tickets are easy to get with multiple times available and the tracks clearly labeled down to which car to get into if you have a reserved seat (the signs switch between Japanese and English). To look up train times, I used Hyperdia which is a website as well as an app to help search routes and times for transit everywhere in Japan.
I pose as a conductor with a bunch of models of shinkansen while waiting for the time to board our bullet train to Nagano To Nagano we go to visit the Snow Monkeys - the station has clearly labeled signs showing which track to go to and even where each numbered car will stop so you can get to your reserved seat

For us, from Shinjuku where we were staying, we used our JR pass to travel 30 minutes to the station Omiya, which is a big shinkansen train stop. There, we then took a 1 hour shinkansen to Nagano with reserved seats that are free, again with the JR pass.

The shinkansen we are riding is white and gold - I ran and took this shot from the car we were boarding and then quickly ran back before the doors closed as this was just a stop for the train, not one of the endpoints so it only stops for a few minutes. Our first shinkansen - our JR Pass lets us get free reserved seats. They all are roomy in leg room and have trays and a snack car that comes by, some of the newer ones also have plugs to charge electronic devices.

If you come on your own, once you arrive at Nagano, you can pay on your own for each transportation option, or for a savings, purchase a Snow Monkey 1 Day Pass at the station which gives you unlimited use of Nagaden buses and trains and includes the Snow Monkey entrance fee for 2900 yen for one day. This is a great option if you plan to make a whole day trip in Nagano since you can visit other attractions in the area, be it the ski resort or temples or what not. You can just pay for each leg individually too if you don’t have time to get the pass.

In terms of travel from the Nagano station to the Snow Monkey park, from here you have the option of either

  • taking the private train Nagaden (Nagano Electric Railway, which is not covered by JR pass) to Yudanaka then a quick 7 minute bus to the Kanbayashi Onsen stop and walk up the hill to the park. At Nagano station, you must exit the station to enter the underground Nagaden Nagano Station, next to JR Nagano Station, to catch the local (70 minutes and has one transfer at Shinshu-Nakano Station along the way) or limited express (50 minutes, direct) to the cute Onsen town Yudanaka. This route has more transfers and takes longer, but service is more frequent than below and if you are going to other destinations like staying at a ski resort or onsen, this may be the most convenient for you. To use this bus, you use the same system as other Japanese buses where interestingly enough, you enter at the back door. In this case, you will grab a small, numbered, paper ticket from the machine just inside the entrance and sit down. Then when you get to your stop (you will have to push the Stop button to signal you want the stop), your fare is determined by matching the number on your paper with the sign over the front door. Pay at the machine next to the driver at that front door exit.
  • you can take an express NagaDen bus from the East exit of Nagano station, Bus Stop #3 to the Kanbayashi onsen stop and walk up the hill to the park. This is a longer bus ride than the previous option, but you can go direct from JR Nagano station instead of more transfers. The bus ride is about 40 minutes – so overall, depending on your timing with the train and bus, it can be the faster option than even taking the Nagaden limited express train and more frequent local bus. How often the express bus runs varies – there are less buses per day in summer and but around 12 buses per day in winter. You can see the schedule here on the Nagaden Express Bus page (click on Shiga Kogen after translating the page – I used Chrome browser and Google Translate by clicking in the upper right url box to do the translation. This is also the first link in this content area of the linked page.) For Dec. 5, 2015 – April 4, 2016 this is the direct link to the schedule. This was the transportation option we took. The bus looks like any other limo bus, and you pay the fare with the bus driver when you exit at your stop.

Both ways still involve a bus, and you end up at the same Kanbayashi Onsen stop along the road. The small road you need to take if you face the gas station from the road is just to the left of the station.

The sign over the street indicating that yes, this place we stopped by a gas station and bus shelter is indeed for the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park that we can't see... because it's still a 30 minute walk away through the woods. Bus Stop shelter for both buses that stop here: take either the Nagaden Express that departs/arrives from the Nagano Train Station or the local bus from Yudanaka Train Station. Both stop here at Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi stop at which point you still have the same 30 minutes walk to the park entrance of Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park. The Express Bus is more expensive then the Local Bus, but you can take it direct from Nagano Station instead of taking a train from Nagano to Yudanaka.

From here you will have to walk from the Kanbayashi Onsen stop by the road to the gate (Snow Monkey Park signs try to help validate you are going the right way as you walk). This will be about .4 km towards the start of a short 1.6km trail through the woods, and then after the trail you will arrive at the park itself.
Signs with silly monkey drawings trying to reassure us that we are going the right way to Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park as we follow a street from the main one into some neighborhood... Confirming that we are walking along the right road to get towards the path that we can then walk to the Monkey Park. Can't read any of it, but I can follow the arrows... and other people who got off the bus with us. Confirming that we are walking along the right road to get towards the path that we can then walk to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park

At the gate / right before the 1.6 km trail through the woods towards the park, there is a Snow Monkey Resorts Info & Gift Shop with monkey park souvenirs and which can also store your luggage and rent snowshoes or poles or winter gear like coats or purchase gloves, socks etc. to help you on your trek if you want. After you pay your admission, there are a few small lockers at the park entrance just past where you pay admission. The only restroom once you leave the train station is after the park entrance, right past a very small waiting area/gift shop.
For our December visit to now we're on the forest path to Jigokudani Monkey Park. It is extremely muddy

The walking trail is passable around the year, but wear comfortable waterproof shoes you don’t mind getting dirty especially in winter because it gets covered in snow, or as during my visit was a combo of Rain and snow so it got muddy and could be slightly slippery at the trail edges. After we returned to Tokyo around mid afternoon, we had to go back to the hotel because our pants were covered with mud spots from our walk and we couldn’t really go anywhere with that mess on us. So, you may have to be prepared to not go to another destination right away depending on the state of your pants and shoes! It was nice to stretch our legs walking on the trail after the time on the train and bus though, and despite the mud and we were at least happy it wasn’t icy snow. The woods are full of tall ceder trees, and it goes uphill but not very steep so it’s a very easy walk.
Walking along the muddy trail - at least it's not icy or snowy - for 1.6 km towards Jigokudani Monkey Park, surrounded by tall ceder trees Walking along the muddy trail - at least it's not icy or snowy - for 1.6 km towards Jigokudani Monkey Park, surrounded by tall ceder trees

After the trek through the woods,  you will emerge to the small town Shibu-Yudanaka just outside the park. Almost there! Now it’s just a slight walk to the stairs of the actual park where you will pay admission. From Kanbayashi Onsen when you get off the bus, it probably a 30 minute walk total from street to the monkey park admission window, about 2 km.
Small town just before the entrance of Jigokudani Monkey Park

From the admission gate, it’s only a 5 minute walk to the hot spring, although you can also walk around the path by the river where you might observe other non bathing snow monkey groups. It was very dramatic as we approached the hot spring bath because there was so much steam that we couldn’t see any of the snow monkeys at first – and then it blew away and there they were!
Approaching the hot spring where the snow monkeys bathe to warm up at Jigokudani Monkey Park Approaching the hot spring where the snow monkeys bathe to warm up at Jigokudani Monkey Park

It was very dramatic as we approached the hot spring bath because there was so much steam that we couldn’t see any of the snow monkeys at first – and then it blew away and there they were!

It was very dramatic as we approached the hot spring bath because there was so much steam that we couldn't see any of the snow monkeys at first - and then it blew away and there they were! It was very dramatic as we approached the hot spring bath because there was so much steam that we couldn't see any of the snow monkeys at first - and then it blew away and there they were!

There is also a live webcam set up manned apparently by a team of Monkey Supervisors.
Snow Monkey Livecam supervisor The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - Snow Monkey Livecam Team Meeting

One of the pluses of not going on a tour is that the crowd would ebb and flow clearly based on the presence and timings of tours. We were able to spend our own time here (about 1 1/2 hours once we were inside the park) so didn’t feel a need to rush. Even with a crowd though, everyone was very polite in taking turns in various good spots for photos (by the stairs for instance).
Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park. One of the pluses of not going on a tour is that the crowd would ebb and flow clearly based on the presence and timings of tours. We were able to spend our own time here (about 1 1/2 hours once we were inside the park) so didn't feel a need to rush. Even with a crowd though, everyone was very polite in taking turns in various good spots for photos (by the stairs for instance). Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park. One of the pluses of not going on a tour is that the crowd would ebb and flow clearly based on the presence and timings of tours. We were able to spend our own time here (about 1 1/2 hours once we were inside the park) so didn't feel a need to rush. Even with a crowd though, everyone was very polite in taking turns in various good spots for photos (by the stairs for instance).

While you are waiting for the bus after you finish after you walk back, consider stopping by Enza Cafe for a bite to eat. They also offer free wireless, and it’s one more clean restroom stop before the bus. You can pay by credit card or cash here. They had a warming Zenkoji-Miso Ramen featuring local miso, and even vegetarian options such as fried sweet potato and an odd vegetarian roll that was like Lettuce, Tomato, and mayo sandwich with rice and soy sauce and seaweed instead of bread…?!
After the 30 minute walk down, we hung out at Enza Cafe for a late lunch and wireless access before the next hourly bus would arrive to take us back to the train Enza Cafe is located just outside the Monkey Park, a short walk away from the bus stop. I had the zenkoji miso ramen, which uses a local miso Enza Cafe is located just outside the Monkey Park, a short walk away from the bus stop. they do have vegetarian sushi... sorta. This was like a Lettuce, Tomato, and mayo sandwich with rice and soy sauce and seaweed...?!

Background

Snow Monkeys are endemic to Japan. They are given this moniker because there is no other non-human primate that lives so North and in such cold climates.  With snowfall covering the ground where they would normally be foraging for food, this limits their diet to more meager buds, bark, and dirt for minerals and relying on energy stored from the autumn season. In the winter, the snow monkeys also huddle together for warmth from temperatures that could dip to 14ºF (-10ºC), but the tribes in Jigokudani area fortunate in their territory in that they also have the hot spring baths.
Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park - On the left middle, their heads are so fluffy! Then on the middle right, the baby sitting on a rock with mom Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park - Look at the lil baby sitting on the rock!

Jigokudani is located in the northern part of Nagano prefecture at an altitude of 850 meters. Jigokudani translates to Hell Valley because of the very steep cliffs, the fact that it is usually buried in snow 1/3 of the year, and there is constantly steam coming off of the springs. The Snow Monkey Park of Jigokudani is in the valley of the Yokoyu River, downstream from Shiga Heights and upriver from Shibu-Yudanaka Onsens.
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - it was fascinating for a while watching the expressions of this monkey as it relaxed in the hot onsen water, and did little details with its face and hands that seemed so human The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - it was fascinating for a while watching the expressions of this monkey as it relaxed in the hot onsen water, and did little details with its face and hands that seemed so human

The Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park was established around 1964 and has one man made pool and entices the wild monkeys to visit sometimes with feed comprised of barley with chaff, soy beans, or apples. However, visitors are not allowed to feed the monkeys as they are completely wild and may terrorize you and based on which monkeys are fed it can cause conflict among the monkey tribe if you don’t respect the rank order – better leave it to the experts. Both males and females have status rankings to establish dominance, and the youngest offspring of high ranking females inherit their mother’s ranking.
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - it was fascinating for a while watching the expressions and seeing them interact with each other or be lost in thought individually alt=

The park is open all year round. Since the monkeys are wild, there is never any guarantee of seeing the monkeys, though there are about 200 in the area and during the coldest periods (December – February) your chances are higher they will be drawn to the hot springs from the forests in the area which is their regular home. Besides the hot springs, the monkeys at Jigokudani are a draw because they have become very used to people and ignore them – just make sure you don’t look at the monkeys straight in the eyes, as that is taken as hostile action! Their faces are so expressive that you can see why they have a lot of weight in faces and not just body language.

Careful focus on arm washing, followed by a judge-y look it seems…?
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park

Since the snow monkeys here are a full natural troop in the wild, the longer you visit you can start to observe their societal hierarchy and relationships, which is why I prefer visiting on my own rather than on a tour that limits your time here. There are no bars in your way, and the monkeys come and go as they please as there are no gates or fences and so you could encounter them anywhere along the way in the park or even a bit outside the park. You can observe them so meticulously groom themselves as they bathe individually, or in a group helping each other out get to the hard to reach places.
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - it was fascinating for a while watching the expressions and seeing them interact with each other or be lost in thought individually The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - it was fascinating for a while watching the expressions and seeing them interact with each other or be lost in thought individually

Some zen out lost in their own thoughts it seems.
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park - Fading in and out of view from the steam Zenning out while enjoying the hot water in contrast to the cold air (it snowed for a bit while we were there, though it didn't stick) at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park Zenning out while enjoying the hot water in contrast to the cold air (it snowed for a bit while we were there, though it didn't stick) at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park Zenning out while enjoying the hot water in contrast to the cold air (it snowed for a bit while we were there, though it didn't stick) at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park Zenning out while enjoying the hot water in contrast to the cold air (it snowed for a bit while we were there, though it didn't stick) at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park

There are babies everywhere.
Just one of the tiny babies, hanging out at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park Just one of the tiny babies, hanging out at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park

The snow monkeys hang out everywhere – in the water, on the rocks, even right next to you on the railings without a care for the paparazzi around them. Though it did seem one particular monkey was posing on purpose…
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park

It’s truly hard to not be charmed by them each individually – or in their groups. These two were snuggled like this the whole visit, demonstrating the definition of how close 2 individuals can snuggle.
The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park. These two were snuggled like this the whole visit, demonstrating the definition of how close 2 individuals can snuggle.

It took up 3/4 of a day for us to make this trip – we arrived at Nagano in time for one of the two 9:05 AM buses, so we arrived at Jigokudani around 10:15 AM and we left around to catch the 12:50 bus so that we were back in Tokyo by mid-afternoon to relax as I wrote snow monkey postcards before we went out for Winter Illuminations (I covered that in a previous Japan Travel post) and dinner. It made for an early morning which is why I picked it early on in our trip – and there was no snow that stuck in our mid December visit although it did snow, and we saw snow at higher elevations above us. This excursion is one of the favorite things I did in Japan as it is so unique to Japan and many visitors to Japan don’t take this trip.

The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen Monkey Park

More Info on Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park

Us at Jigokudani Monkey Park in December 2015

Have you heard of the Snow Monkeys of Japan before? Would you make this a stop on your visit in Japan, or was one of the other options I mentioned earlier in the Japanese Alps be more interesting? Have you heard of the Japanese Alps before? Is there an animal that you would be willing to spend a half day or more especially to go visit when you are travelling?

Seeing the Snow Monkeys enjoying the hot springs made me want to enjoy one too… And I’ll cover human Onsen in my next Travel Tuesday post.  

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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