Creative Mexican by Clandestino PDX

On Monday – Wednesday you can find creative Mexican plates and glasses of intriguing wines from Clandestino PDX, a pop-up now in residence at Lil Dame by Dame Collective (in the old Beast/Ripe Cooperative space). If you haven’t had an opportunity to visit, make a date for these weekdays to treat yourself to a cozy dinner and a food and wine mini adventure.
Clandestino PDX - Left Ceviche of yellowfin tuna, guava, avocado, lime on tostadita, Right Carne tartara - beef, yuzu kosho, serrano on tostadita Clandestino PDX - Quesadillas - carnitas, quesillo, guacachile

Clandestino joined the collective to start serving up Mexican inspired dishes in December to rave review by tastemaker and written word wrangler Karen Brooks of Portland Monthly who called Clandestino Portland’s Best New Mexican Restaurant. Try to make reservations as the space in inclement weather is very cozy and with recent media coverage may even be full for the night, even on a Monday. You can see how small the open kitchen is, so they also can only realistically do only so many covers per evening. As spring and summer weather open up the outdoor seating and they dial in their menu they’ll have more capacity.

Be sure to try several half glass pours during your visit! You can trust and after selecting your dishes let the staff pour their recommended pairings – you can even ask for a different pairing per person like we did for each dish. Not only are the selections carefully curated to be all winners with the food and diverse in provenance and flavor profile, but that helps support both sides of the collective.
Clandestino PDX - part of the Dame Collective

The way it works is the food sales are kept by the chef, Dame keeps the beverage, and overhead and staff costs are split by both resident chef and Dame. So patronize both with your check! I’ve always been a fan of the pop-up model (I even used to cover pop-ups for Eater PDX) – restaurant industry life is hard in terms of long hours and margins in balancing inventory with limited shelf life. Pop-ups allow for some reasonable work time boundaries with more control of when open for business and taking breaks, and an ability to get some work life balance. It’s great business sense for the brick and mortar owners and visiting chefs and part of PDX’s supportive hospitality community.

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Nodoguro Izakaya in the Canaries

The best popup in Portland is Nodoguro, offering incredible creative kaiseki (Japanese fine dining) that combines the meticulous techniques and artful playing with highlighting seasonal sourcing, hospitality, and thoughtfulness and personal style of whatever is Ryan and Elena Roadhouse’s chosen inspiration theme. The theme of the current dinner series is “Izakaya in the Canaries” from their trip to represent the Pacific Northwest at the Volcanic Food Forum in Lanzarote, Spain. The menu is designed to combine love of Izakaya cuisine, the Spanish Tavern, and some Pacific Northwest volcanic flair.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

I’ve been a customer of Nodoguro for many years – just do a search for Nodoguro to see multiple other recaps of dinners I have experienced. I was heartbroken when they closed their space when the rent ended and because it didn’t make sense as we approached the 2nd year of the Covid-19 pandemic. So imagine my thrill when I saw they would at least for a few months, be taking up the space vacated by Nonna and then Yakuza temporarily, at least until August. Follow them via their newsletters and on social media follow Nodoguro or Gary the Foodie for the news when prepaid reservations are available because they will go fast! Sometimes you may luck out with canceled seats. For me it was via texting to coordinate and buying a spot immediately upon hearing the news to get my late May Friday night seat. It was such a reunion to dine with the Hungry Broads at my table and see the Roadhouses presenting their dinner experience again, but with the added bonus of daughter Sasha also helping.

Also as a long time fan while not trying to be a creeper I was crushing hard watching the daughter dad duo plating the sashimi courses with the same intense focus in their eyes.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

The Setting

Here’s a look at the space they are temporarily occupying on NE Portland.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

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YāYā Portland bringing Chinese barbecue to NE Alberta

Chinese barbecue in Portland has generally been somewhat of an inside track – you had to know which place (and they were all different) for your crispy roast pork fix, your Cantonese roast duck, for good char siu. The locations for these Chinese BBQ treasures were out far from the Portland city core – often in strip malls in the East Portland (“New Chinatown” past SE 82nd) or Westside suburbs, from your Asian owned restaurant or grocery with non-descript storefronts to procure your goal protein. There is no central Chinatown that you would head towards like in New York, San Fran, Chicago, etc. where you explore a street of businesses looking for the tell tale hanging duck and pork on hooks in a window. Recently a joint venture from restaurateur Micah Camden (who has also brought Portland the famed Blue Star Donuts, Boxer Ramen, Super Deluxe, Little Chickpea, Bae’s Chicken, Rock Paper Fish, and formerly Little Big Burger) and lead by chef Steven Chin has opened. Chinese BBQ in Portland now has a very accessible, and very high quality, place that anyone and everyone can trust for some easy Chinese barbecue fix, with their venture YāYā Portland (Yā is duck in Mandarin).
YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland - Char siu pork is thick cut bbq roasted pork

Steven Chin’s background in Chinese barbecue started with a childhood in New York and with his grandparent’s grocery with a bbq station in Chinatown (a photo of his grandfather and store is featured on the YāYā Portland wall). Chinese BBQ was further refined with mentorship with his friend and legend Martin Yan, famously known for the Yan Can Cook show that I remember watching all the time, one of the few representations of a face like mine on TV back then. He has combined tradition from those learnings also with American business practices such that many American bbq places use where they prep and bbq the meats up to a certain level then finish based on the incoming orders.
YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland - one of the partners is Steven Chin. Steven Chin's background in Chinese barbecue started with a childhood in New York and Cantonese barbecue with his grandparent's grocery with a bbq station in Chinatown YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland - one of the partners is Steven Chin. Steven Chin's background in Chinese barbecue started with a childhood in New York and Cantonese barbecue with his grandparent's grocery with a bbq station in Chinatown

The YāYā Portland storefront on NE Alberta Avenue is a takeout only operation, so no indoor seating or service, though there are some picnic tables outside under a shady tree and a patio covering overhead if you want to eat it immediately. You can order online for pickup from their website YāYā Portland, or via a few delivery apps. Chinese BBQ is not usually served hot, so this is perfect for grabbing to take home and can survive a delivery time window. Usually you buy Chinese barbecue meats by the pound but the orders from YāYā Portland already come on white rice, ready to eat.
YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland YāYā Portland bringing accessible Chinese barbecue in Portland

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Pan Pizza in Downtown Portland from Zapapizza

Recently, Zapapizza opened offering Mexican inspired flavor combinations and pan pizza in downtown Portland. The thick crust pizzas also come in traditional combos like cheese, pepperoni, sausage and peppers, and a vegan pie of the day – but I would recommend trying out the Mexican pan pizza flavors.
Pan Pizza in Downtown Portland from Zapapizza Pan Pizza in Downtown Portland from Zapapizza

Being a patron of Zapapizza is also helping the world while enjoying your pizza. If you bring a winter coat or heavy sweater to donate to the homeless, you can get a free slice of pizza (they will also accept other warm clothing so feel free to bring gloves, socks, etc. too). And, as part of their regular doing business a minimum of 10% of their profits are going to charities serving Mexican and Hispanic communities.

One thing that impressed me is that typically when you order pan pizza you are ordering the whole pizza – Zapapizza offers it by the slice as well. This means you can easily order different kinds of slices up to try. I highly recommend the Taquito pizza (vegetarian) that is a combo of Cheese, Green Sauce, Sour Cream, Avocado Salsa, Cilantro, Pico de Gallo, and a Potato & Cheese Taquito per Slice. That’s right, there is a potato and cheese taquito on every slice!
Pan Pizza in Downtown Portland from Zapapizza: I highly recommend the Taquito (vegetarian) that is a combo of Cheese, Green Sauce, Sour Cream, Avocado Salsa, Cilantro,  Pico de Gallo, and a Potato & Cheese Taquito per Slice. That's right, there is a potato and cheese taquito on every slice Pan Pizza in Downtown Portland from Zapapizza: I highly recommend the Taquito (vegetarian) that is a combo of Cheese, Green Sauce, Sour Cream, Avocado Salsa, Cilantro,  Pico de Gallo, and a Potato & Cheese Taquito per Slice. That's right, there is a potato and cheese taquito on every slice

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Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX

One of the biggest bargains in fine dining with can be found at Roe Portland. Two dining experiences are available, and I have tried both. In the spring (unfortunately the day just after I cracked my camera phone lens) I enjoyed the Tasting Menu. For this menu, it is prix fixe but you have a certain list of dishes to choose between for your four courses for the huge value price of $68 per person – you can easily run that up per person for four courses any restaurant, but you get the extra experience of the fine dining service at Roe. Recently, I went back and tried the Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX for the price of $138, and you get seven courses plus some surprises. Here’s look at what the experience was like for me in the first of October 2019.

Finding the restaurant is a bit of an adventure to start with. Located in downtown Portland, only a few blocks away from Pioneer Square, you have to enter a building called Morgan’s Alley- there isn’t even a sign for Roe visible. Look for the Oregon Wines on Broadway and go through the doors just to the left of this wine bar and bottle shop. Keep pressing through the hallways to the back until you see stairs, and follow those up to a very subtle restaurant entrance.
Roe Portland, located in Morgan's Alley in the back - finding the restaurant so I can enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX Roe Portland, located in Morgan's Alley in the back - finding the restaurant so I can enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX

When you enter, you are transported away from the busyness of Portland and your day into the dimly lit entrance foyer of Roe PDX. There is a card with your last name waiting for you, and once the host returns to the cart, he or she will take your coats, pour you a libation to greet you. In my visits to Roe, this has varied from some hot dashi in the winter to sparkling to in this visit, a chamomile tea infused vermouth aperitif.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, initial entrance foyer Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, initial entrance foyer

Shortly after, you will be led to your seats at your table or the chef’s counter (which has it’s own reservations). There are no walk-ins at Roe – but it’s easy to make reservations online and check the available times lots on Tock. Most seats have a view of the open kitchen, and I appreciate that the tables are spaced well enough that you can enjoy private conversation – this is not a noisy restaurant so you can really enjoy the food and drink and your dining companions.
interior of restaurant as I prepare to enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX interior of restaurant as I prepare to enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX

You can select to purchase beverages by the glass, or bottle, or have a pairing. We opted for the beverage pairing. The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course. If you have any food allergies or such, they do check with you by sending you a message the day before your reservation, and they check one more time in person here. You also have an option of caviar add on if you so choose. Ok, we’re ready, game on – and we so choose to enjoy some caviar service please.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu

Amuse Bouches and (optional) Caviar

Before the dinner courses, we are treated to some complimentary snacks, or amuse bouches. The first set of amuse bouches included Housemade dashi, Hamachi crudo with walnut pecan and concord grape, and Albacore tartare in buckwheat crepe with wasabi. These amuse bouches and the caviar were paired with one of my favorite pairings of the evening, a Quince fruit wine from Art + Science.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science

Then, the next amuse bouches arrived almost at the same time as the caviar. I was fine with the pan fried salt cod with caviar but honestly the excitement of the caviar made me forget to note what was exactly the second snack here besides that it was in a roasted peanut topping.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science

The caviar service ranges from some individual caviar selections from the low end of $45 up to a trio of caviar for $175. The caviar is served with warm potato blini, whipped creme fraiche, and sieved egg. It’s simple and perfect – I would always get this add on from now on if I visit Roe.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu

How about we finally get down to seeing the courses of the dinner for the Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX now? We haven’t even started on the first listing yet!

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