Tesoaria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing

I admit I’ve been a wine club member and even longer a fan of TeSóAria wines. Recently they have started offering vegan tapas on their daily tapas menu to accompany their dozen or so wines that are available at any one time to taste or purchase by the glass, in flights, or in bottles, and many of those wines are award-winning. At the time of the brunch, they were up to 97 medals!
Award winning wines at Tesoaria Award winning wines at Tesoaria

And now, starting today they have set aside every Thursday for what they call Vegan Thursday: Shut Up and Eat Your Vegetables night where all the tapas will be vegan – the menus are available starting at 5 PM. They also will be offering a vegan brunch with wine pairings by reservation only (one seating)  every few weeks. It’s not often that you see vegan food paired with wines, and it’s worth highlighting for my vegan friends out and there – and even if you’re not vegan, the Tesoaria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing is so good you will want it anyway.
Tesoaria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing at a vegan brunch - owner and winemaker John Olson describing the wine Tesoaria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing at a Vegan Brunch - yes pairing vegan food and wine- owner and winemaker John Olson describing the wine
The name for TeSóAria Vineyard & Winery comes from combining Terra (earth), Sol (sun), Aria (air and music) which are three important parts that make their wines so unique. Owner and winemaker John Olson and his family love music, and it is part of the TeSóAria experience. At their wine members pick up parties I’ve often enjoyed hearing his children play music and sing, and they host live music in the Portland Tasting Room on Saturdays. While aging the wines in the barrels, TeSóAria plays music through Bose speakers to keep the wine moving – as well as possibly imparting a little extra terroir.
Music is part of the Terrroir of Tesoaria Wines

The TeSóAria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing Brunches will be offered every few weeks as a special event  – aka, they will not be weekly so check their events listing on the website and sign up for their mailing list to be in the know. The next Vegan Brunch at the Portland Tasting Room is Sunday, July 24th, 11am $45, tout compris. Limited seating, RSVP required to events @ tesoaria.com

The food is inspired newly each time so expect to see new creative additions all the time by Chef Max Germano and Sous Chef Daniel Escalle (seen here preparing the Vegan Cassoulet during the vegan brunch) for what will be on the menu.
Tesoaria Vegan Brunch - Sous Chef Daniel Escalle preparing the Vegan Cassoulet.

Here’s a look at the inaugural vegan brunch I attended to give you an idea of what the experience could include with the 4 courses with the wine pairings.

Tesoaria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing: Vegan Brunch

1st course

Chicory Salad with Roasted Apricot Vinaigrette and croutons paired with 2015 Vermentino Secco and 2014 Field Blend #1. The greens in this salad included endive, frisee, arugula and interestingly some wasabi greens to add a hint of spiciness.
TeSóAria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing Brunch 1st course Chicory Salad with Roasted Apricot Vinaigrette and croutons paired with 2015 Vermentino Secco and 2014 Field Blend #1 TeSóAria Vegan Brunch 1st course Chicory Salad with Roasted Apricot Vinaigrette and croutons paired with 2015 Vermentino Secco and 2014 Field Blend #1

Candied pepitas with radishes and macerated apricots add additional texture and flavors to the plate that I thought were best brought out by the Field Blend #1 since each dish gave me a chance to go a White vs Red: Who Did It Better comparison.

The Field Blend is the red wine that is a tribute to old school wine making where winemakers are more focused on the flavors then getting hung up on specific varietals. TeSóAria, by the way, cultivates more than 25 different varietals from the Southern Oregon Umpqua Valley, Celestina Vineyard in Medford Rogue Valley, riesling from Willamette Valley, and some from Northern California.

2nd course

Homemade Cashew Cheese Stuffed Peppers with Tabouleh, Sweet Romanesco and Mint Oil paired with 2015 Riesling (sourced from Willamette) and 2014 Bull’s Blood (a Hungarian style red wine). He has a specific way he tells the inspiration story behind the Bull’s Blood name though rest assured there is no bull harmed in the story or in the wine making. One new trivia I learned though is that the Kadarka grape they use for this red were smuggled vines from Hungary that he inherited (he’s a rebel, but didn’t smuggle them in himself, phew)!
TeSóAria Vegan Brunch 2nd course Cashew Cheese Stuffed Peppers with Tabouleh, Sweet Romanesco and Mint Oil paired with 2015 Riesling and 2014 Bull's Blood TeSóAria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing Brunch 2nd course Cashew Cheese Stuffed Peppers with Tabouleh, Sweet Romanesco and Mint Oil paired with 2015 Riesling and 2014 Bull's Blood

With the surprise spiciness from the peppers I thought the Riesling was the winner of this pairing to balance out the dish, though normally I like drinking the Bull’s Blood on it’s own!

3rd course

Vegan Cassoulet with Fava Beans and Maitake Mushrooms, Chickpea Croutons, Roasted Vegetables, White Miso, and Tahini paired with 2015 Bella Rosa and 2012 Vindetta Reserve.
TeSóAria Vegan Brunch 3rd course Vegan Cassoulet with Fava Beans and Maitake Mushrooms, Chickpea Croutons, Roasted Vegetables, White Miso, and Tahini paired with 2015 Bella Rosa and 2012 Vindetta Reserve TeSóAria Wine and Vegan Food Pairing Brunch 3rd course Vegan Cassoulet with Fava Beans and Maitake Mushrooms, Chickpea Croutons, Roasted Vegetables, White Miso, and Tahini paired with 2015 Bella Rosa and 2012 Vindetta Reserve

Cassoulet is traditionally a peasant dish with beans and meat, and I enjoyed here how the use of mushrooms and miso really gave an extra thickness to the cassoulet to make it meaty like without actual meat. For me the Vindetta Reserve red wine was my preferred pairing of the two.

4th course

Dessert came as a Rosemary Shortcake with Apricot Jam, Apricots, Lemon Olive Oil, Fried Rosemary and Muscat Agave Nectar. The apricots are macerated in the Bella Rosa that here is also paired with the dish (2015 Bella Rosa Secco).
TeSóAria Vegan Brunch 4th course Rosemary Shortcake with Apricot Jam, Apricots, Fried Rosemary paired with 2015 Bella Rosa Secco and 2015 Sparkling Moscato TeSóAria Vegan Brunch 4th course Rosemary Shortcake with Apricot Jam, Apricots, Fried Rosemary paired with 2015 Bella Rosa Secco and 2015 Sparkling Moscato

The other wine pairing here is the 2015 Sparkling Moscato, showing off their recently started TeSóAria Sparkling Wine Program – this particular Moscato just won a Silver Medal at the 2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and they were confused/surprised when he entered the wine in a growler! You see, the sparkling wines of TeSóAria are on tap and you can purchase them by the (refillable!) growler here in the tasting room.

Other Excuses/Rationalizations to stop by the Portland Tasting Room:

  • On Tuesdays the Portland Tasting Room hosts Pizza Tuesdays where every Tuesday, housemade pizza is complimentary and certain wines are on special. Open house from 6 – 9 PM or until they are out of pizza.
  • They also hold Hangry Hump Day every Wednesday at The Portland Tasting Room. Chef Max’s complimentary yummies and Wine Specials vary based on the week which in the past can be as varied (and making for fun wine pairings!) as from fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, lamb gyros, chicken teriyaki, to chicken tikka masala or smoked chicken biscuits with mac and cheese and more. Open house from 6pm to 9pm or until the food is gone.

The vegan only nights are only on Thursdays, but they have also added vegan options to their always available tapas menu that includes choices like
Tasting Boards with the Tesoaria Sparkling Wine at the Sparkling Wine Release Party

  • the vegan Olive Tapenade made with Castelveltrano and Kalamata olives with herbs and toasted bread;
  • Cheese Board with house baked bread;
  • Charcuterie Board that includes Ghost Pepper Salami and housemade charcuterie items;
  • the vegan Mezze Board with Hummus, Lebneh, Marinated Olives, Roasted Almonds, Cucumber and Flatbread;
  • Focaccia Pizza (including vegan pizza option);
  • Smoked Salmon brined in TeSóAria Bella Bianca wine before being cold smoked;
  • House cured ham sandwich with brie and house made mustard, greens and lemon chive vinaigrette
  • TeSóAria Housemade Candy Bars with salted almond shortbread and vanilla caramel topped with dark chocolate and Maldon sea salt!

On the Thursday Shut Up and Eat Your Vegetables Vegan Takeover day, a recent visit yielded for me choices like

  • Samosas with curry cauliflower and potato with a spiced tomato sauce, suggested pairing 2015 Riesling but you can try whatever wine you’d like, I prefer red wine to white myself and there are plenty to choose from, many are award winning as you can see from the 100 medals Tesoaria has won with their wines
    Tesoaria's Thursday Portland Vegan Takeover Menu - Shut Up and Eat Your Vegetables, Samosas with curry cauliflower and potato with a spiced tomato sauce, suggested pairing 2015 Riesling though you can do whatever pairing you choose - I prefer red wine to white myself and there are plenty to choose from, many are award winning as you can see from the 100 medals Tesoaria has won with their wines Tesoaria's Thursday Portland Vegan Takeover Menu - Shut Up and Eat Your Vegetables, Samosas with curry cauliflower and potato with a spiced tomato sauce, suggested pairing 2015 Riesling but you can try whatever wine you'd like - I enjoyed a red because I prefer red to white wine
  • Portobello Sandwich with house made that day ciabatta, romesco, pickled peppers, roasted fennel greens, suggested wine pairing 2014 Bulls Blood though here I tried the 2014 Primitivo which was just as excellent!
    Tesoaria's Thursday Portland Vegan Takeover Menu - Shut Up and Eat Your Vegetables, Portobello Sandwich with house made that day ciabatta, romesco, pickled peppers, roasted fennel greens, suggested wine pairing 2014 Bulls Blood though here I tried the 2014 Primitivo which was just as excellent!
  • Som Tam Salad Rolls with a charred peanut and black garlic sauce, suggested pairing 2015 Vermentino or 2015 Bella Bianca; the charred peanut and black garlic sauce provide a savory and funky taste to mimic fish sauce but in a vegan way
    "Tesoaria's
  • Lemon Rosemary Olive Oil Cake with macerated apricots, strawberry rhubarb compote, and fresh cherries, suggested wine pairing sparkling muscat, one of the sparkling wines of Tesoaria that you can get to go in a growler!
    "Tesoaria's Sparkling muscat in a growler bottled for you from the tap at the Tesoaria Tasting Room on North Williams

Their tasting menu also includes 5 flight options that include tapas paired with three glasses of wine – cheese, charcuterie, the wine maker’s flight with chef’s choice (1 of the wines will be the live barrel), or a library wine flight with chef’s choice of tapas to pair with the wine.
Open house at Tesoaria with a dozen wines to taste Open house at Tesoaria with a dozen wines to taste

Suffice it to say you will not lack for choice for types of wine to try at TeSóAria. Usually there are a little more than half a dozen white wine and a dozen red wines to choose by the glass or to make a wine flight, plus 2-3 sparkling wine you can try. Purchase a bottle of wine from the live barrel and they will hand bottle for you and write a custom message.
TeSóAria offers live barrels in their Portland Tasting Room for you to taste and will hand bottle if you puchase a bottle TeSóAria offers live barrels in their Portland Tasting Room for you to taste and will hand bottle if you puchase a bottle

TeSóAria wines are only available directly from the winery through their tasting rooms, mailing list, and wine clubs.

Locations of TeSóAria Tasting Rooms:

  • The Portland Tasting Room: 4003 N Williams Ave, Portland, OR 97227
  • The Roseburg Tasting Room & Winery: 512 N Curry Road, Roseburg, OR 97471

Tesóaria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Signature

TeSóAria Wine Brunch

I’m a wine club member of TeSóAria. I fell in love with their wines several years ago, but it wasn’t until last year that we decided to be members and stop pretending we weren’t buying wines every time we saw TeSóAria at various wine festivals, and we have visited their tasting room in the Umpqua Valle. y, in Roseburg, a couple times. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait for an event or a trip to Roseburg to try them out.

In December 2013 TeSoAria opened a Portland Tasting Room at North Williams corridor, at the intersection with  North Shaver. The room is full of light, with 3 sliding garage walls- I can’t wait for when the weather gets better!

TeSoAria Portland Tasting Room TeSoAria Portland Tasting Room

With the opening of the Portland Tasting room, John Olson and family are also pursuing a vision of expanding the experience of his already deep, delicious wines by pairing them with food, courtesy of collaboration with Chef Max. For instance, recently, I attended a brunch in which he paired wine with breakfast-y foods- 3 courses for $25. Oh yeah?  I’m in.
TeSoAria Portland Tasting Room includes a small kitchen to pair bites of food with the wines

I mean, it’s educational right? Self-improvement? I’ve never thought to match wines with brunch before, I usually stick with mimosas and bloody marys. But I am ready to learn. Teach me!

Before I begin the recap of the TeSóAria Wine Brunch, let me address the name of the winery and a little bit of background.

When I first was introduced to winemaker John Olson and his wines, it was under the name Palotai, which was the original name of the winery when John and his family (wife Joy and 3 children) purchased it in 2008. Palotai comes from the original wine owner Gabor Palotai, who defected from Hungary and ran the winery with an Old World European philosophy, specifically carrying on traditions of Hungarian wines.
John Olson kicks off the January TeSóAria Wine Brunch

I believe a year later, the winery was rechristened TeSóAria, which is a combination of the words Terra (soil), Sol (son), and Aria (air and music). I remember this because there used to be a lovely little tale on their website (which is now being redone- I hope they put the story back on their site in their About Us section) in which you might visit the winery and see their beautiful vines in the sunshine and hear music- guitar playing and gentle singing from their son Johnny, who has performed at many of the wine club events.

TeSoAria TeSoAria

TeSoAria still carries on some of the traditions of Palotai, most notably continuing the usage of Hungarian oak barrels. There is also an annual release of a wine called Bulls Blood, a robust, full bodied red blend that is different every year, and yet every year is like a punch in the face when you compare it with the more subtle, sometimes meek reds from other wineries. It just explodes with flavors and complexity.

I honestly don’t know how John and his staff manage to produce the amount and variety of award winning wines that they do. Despite when I last checked they only list a handful of wines on the website, I know when I attended their wine pick up party there were more than a dozen options, and definitely a dozen varietals that he is utilizing. Various blends are crafted with more grapes types like Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and more. Below are a few examples of what he might be offering- not always all at the same time, but as I said, there are probably a dozen options at his tasting room at any one time.

TeSóAria wines at the Portland Pick Up Party December 2013 included  Vermentino, Bella Bianca, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Sangiovese, Barbera, Zinfandel, Cab Sauv, Vindetta, Durif, Port, Primitivo

  • Vermentino – a white, clean and crisp Italian grape
  • Bella Bianca – a white grape blend
  • Bella Rosa – a rose
  • Riesling
  • Gruner Veltliner
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Dolcetto – deep berry red Italian grape
  • Sangiovese
  • Barbera
  • Syrah
  • Zinfandel- which are surprisingly zesty
  • Primitivo- an Italian cousin of Zin
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Durif – an earthy red European grape also known as Petit Syrah
  • Port-style

The blends from TeSóAria really set this winery apart because of the unique flavor profiles that are approachable enough to drink now but also can be cellared and hoarded. Every time I bring one of their wines to a gathering I get upset that I get one glass worth from the wine bottle potluck table and on return the bottle is already empty.  And I get a little mad that every quarter there are new wines that I want to drink right now and keep for next year, and the year after that, and on… Each wine is its own enticing character. Many of these wines are also award-winning, medaled wines, showcased below:
Tesoaria tasting room in Portland showcasing their award winning wines Tesoaria tasting room in Portland showcasing their award winning wines

But, let’s get to figuring out what it means to match wines with brunch shall we?
Tesoaria Portland Tasting Room January brunch: Chef Max prepares to ladle country gravy on the buttermilk biscuits Tesoaria Portland Tasting Room January brunch: Chef Max prepares to ladle country gravy on the buttermilk biscuits

First Course
A sweet and savory duo of fresh buttermilk biscuits -the first with house prepared honey butter and blackberry dolcetto preserve and the second with thick country style gravy. These were paired with the 2013 Riesling and also the Bulls Blood.

I was in love with the flavors of this Riesling, which balanced the line between sweetness and acidity, had a bright fresh young citrus just ripening, but round buttery end note. The blackberry dolcetto preserve did the same thing- it wasn’t too sweet because the dolcetto gave it a bit of a savory grounding.

I thought a bit of the honey buttered biscuit with the Riesling was just the right amount of light sweetness, like a smile but of sunshine that you can eat. Meanwhile, the Bulls Blood red wine with the finger licking gravy and pancetta had every single one of these boards coming back to the kitchen completely wiped clean, no joke.
Tesoaria Portland Tasting Room January brunch: A sweet and savory duo of fresh buttermilk biscuits -the first with house prepared honey butter and blackberry dolcetto preserve. The second with thick country style gravy Tesoaria Portland Tasting Room January brunch: A sweet and savory duo of fresh buttermilk biscuits -the first with house prepared honey butter and blackberry dolcetto preserve, and the second with thick country style gravy

Second Course
Thai style breakfast – Duck confit (still juicy and warm from resting in the duck fat, mmm) and crispy shallots atop sticky rice with a rich butternut curry sauce topped with a fried quail egg. Paired with a 2013 Viognier (single vineyard sourced from Cooper Ridge Vineyards) and Durif.

This was my favorite course and favorite pairing- this could have easily competed with the dishes at Feast Portland High Comfort Event that I blogged about with the dishes from the likes of Tom Douglas or Stephanie Izard or Jenn Louis. I’m a big fan of the Tesoaria Durif, which has an earthy barnyard solid foundation.
Tesoaria Portland Tasting Room January brunch: Thai style breakfast -Duck confit and crispy shallots atop sticky rice with a rich butternut curry sauce topped with a fried quail egg. alt=

Final Course

Fresh doughnuts dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with a foie gras pastry cream to dip (or spoon directly into mouth…). This was paired with a Late Harvest Riesling and then the 2012 Pinot Noir.

I was eating and scraping the last of that foie gras pastry cream. My table disagreed on which pairing of the wine went better with the dish. The Riesling emphasized and complimented the doughnut and cream, while the red cut the fattiness of the pastry cream. There is no wrong answer, only the need to have a larger serving of that cream.

Although this was a special event, the TeSóAria Tasting Room is open everyday, with a menu of great wines that includes from bottles or from live barrels. You can order a flight that include 3 wines and 3 tapas paired together. Wines by the glass or bottle enjoyed at the tasting room are accompanied by complimentary tapas bites. You can also order tapas a la carte, you can see the current menu here. Chef Max says he hopes to change up the tapas every month, and I’ll have to visit next month and do an “ordinary visit” of wine and food here.

Below, you can see I purchased some of the Baco Noir he had just brought in and bottled/autographed for me: you can get regular size  (750mL) or Magnum/1.5L or Double Magnum/3L. As you can see, the Magnum is equivalent to 2 bottles (and the Double Magnum to 4 bottles), but with a price discount from buying them individually, so perfect to break out for a party. Honestly, being able to pull out a large bottle like a Magnum just is so jet-setter, like you live the lifestyle of the rich and famous. Or at least can pretend to.

The Live Barrel will change out every month or so I’m guessing, as will the menus paired with the wines so keep coming back to see what they are doing now!
Bottles of Baco Noir from the Live Barrel, freshly bottled and signed by Tesoaria Winemaker John Olson

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