Travel Santa Fe Archives - Pechluck's Food Adventures

I’ve highlighted a restaurant in my previous Santa Fe post already of Gabriel’s, which also offered a very cool artsy atmosphere and tableside guacamole on the way to Bandelier, and which I would definitely recommend again. My favorite Santa Fe Eats that we had overall during our entire trip was at The Shed, a very well known a family owned restaurant since 1953. They serve Southwest specialties but are especially known for their red chile sauce. It’s a little hidden off the Santa Fe Plaza since you need to go back a little bit to see the doors, and it’s reputation as a must visit may mean a line (they do take reservations) although we didn’t encounter any on the rainy day lunch we had.
We started with lunch at the famous The Shed, a family owned restaurant since 1953. Some say it is the best place for chile in Santa Fe. I would definitely agree with the red chile, and the green chile had great flavor but would not be the spiciest we would have

The atmosphere is like a hacienda with lots of folk art that feels like a neighborhood joint in the heart of downtown Santa Fe.

We started with lunch at the famous The Shed, a family owned restaurant since 1953. Some say it is the best place for chile in Santa Fe. I would definitely agree with the red chile, and the green chile had great flavor but would not be the spiciest we would have

The bar offers a pretty good selection of margaritas. And a vacation especially when our lodging is in walking distance of the Santa Fe plaza (and which offers a complimentary shuttle to and from downtown) means a margarita for lunch. It always feels so decadent to drink at lunch!
We started with lunch at the famous The Shed, a family owned restaurant since 1953. Some say it is the best place for chile in Santa Fe. Vacation means a margarita for lunch "Vacation

He ordered a vegetarian burrito in green chile sauce – and holy moly was it massive, fork to show scale! The green chile sauce was good, but would not be the best we had during the trip.
The Shed Burrito with green chile sauce in Santa Fe.

Meanwhile, I think I had the best dish since I got the cheese enchiladas (vegetarian so we could bot enjoy) in the legendary red chile sauce served with pinto beans & posole (stew of Nixtamal corn, lean pork, coarse red chile, garlic & oregano). Keeping with The Shed’s tradition, their New Mexican dishes are served with French garlic bread, which was a great break as I was scooping up the sauce by itself by the spoonfuls – it was spicy, smokey, and delicious. The Shed’s chile comes directly from a farm and is continuously ground on the premises for freshness. I now it doesn’t look like much, but it was fantastic.
Keeping with The Shed’s tradition, their New Mexican dishes are served with French garlic bread. I think I had the best dish since I got the cheese enchiladas (vegetarian so we could bot enjoy) in the legendary red chile sauce served with pinto beans & posole.

Cool your tongue afterwards by not missing dessert: we were pleasantly surprised by the sophistication of this Zabaglione with Creamy Italian Custard, Cointreau, White Port
Dessert at The Shed of Zabaglione with Creamy Italian Custard, Cointreau, White Port to cool off our palate after all that great red chile and green chile

While The Shed was my #1 favorite for dining, and had the best red chile sauce, for green chile sauce our vote goes to no frills local diner Horseman’s Haven. It’s set back a bit from the busy Cerrillos Road – you have to look for it slightly behind a gas station – I drove by it twice before I found it. One of the reasons I write my blog is because I always adore reading blog entries myself when researching travel: and this entry by NM Gastronome on Horseman’s Haven is what convinced me to make this someplace to check out.

The vegetarian green chile at Horseman’s Haven has a depth that’s surprising given that most green chiles have pork in them in town – and the chile has a nice meaty texture as it is thickened with a roux. The regular green chile sauce is already spicy unlike most other green chiles you may come across, and then they offer a spicier Level Two made with Jim and Sandia peppers. Make sure you have tissue for your sweat and runny nose if you go with Level Two.

It is so spicy you may not be able to have more than a teaspoon or even a few drops. As much as I like spicy Thai and Indian food, I had to tap out after a few spoonfuls worth, though F ate it all up. So if you can take the heat, for green chile try Horseman’s Haven. I definitely suggest you order something large like a big burrito so you have something to eat between sweating with the green chile. Don’t be afraid to ask for the Level 2 on the side to be cautiously risky.

For a more moderate green chile experience, we went to Tomasita’s which is the typical huge Mexican restaurant great for huge groups that has been in business for more than 40 years. Their red & green chile from Hatch, New Mexico is cooked daily and they also use New Mexico pinto beans plus all entrees and specials include a sopaipilla, honey butter and New Mexico Honey from B’S Honey Farm of Albuquerque. A sopaipilla, if you haven’t had one before is like a fried bread.

I recommend the entree called Tomasita’s Big Bowl, which allows you to build your own bowl with any combination – red or green chile, beans, posole, ground beef or chicken served with a hot sopaipilla. I went with red chile for myself. F had Tomasita’s Vegetarian Mexican plate with Red and Green Chile, beans and rice, and in front you see a sopaipilla.
Tomasita's Vegetarian Mexican plate with Red and Green Chile, beans and rice, and in front you see a Sopaipilla. Their red and green chile — from Hatch, New Mexico — is cooked daily and Tomasita's uses natural Monterey jack cheese and New Mexico pinto beans. All entrees and specials include a sopaipilla, honey butter and New Mexico Honey from B’S Honey Farm of Albuquerque

The other reason we went to Tomasita’s is because they have this super fun mariachi band called Mariachi Buenaventura that plays every Tuesday evening at Tomasita’s at 7:30 PM. What makes Mariachi Buenaventura stand out is that they are an all female mariachi band. If you are around on a Tuesday, these ladies alone make it worth a trip to Tomasita’s. When we saw them that night, I think there were twice as any as in the video below.

Have you had red or green chile before? Which one do you prefer?

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

I spent a week in Santa Fe, and was surprised at how much I really enjoyed it. I knew it would offer great arts, culture, and wonderful dining, but I underestimated it’s powerful combination of history and nature.

My first taste of this was visiting the famous Bandelier National Monument. Going in, I only knew they were ruins with some ladder climbing. Actually, Bandelier National Monument is a National Park that covers 33,000 acres that includes multiple signs of the people who have lived here in the past 11,000 years in various locations. They are open daily, year round, from dawn to dusk, and includes a campground (Juniper Campground) and a Visitor Center (9 AM -6 PM mid May – October, 9 AM -4:30 PM off peak season).

During this peak season, during peak times, the park limits congestion as well as pollutants by requiring in most cases visitors to take a free shuttle bus into the park with a few exceptions based on time, campers, and bicycles, going to other trails besides the main one (Main Loop Trail) for instance. There is ample parking by where the shuttle bus picks up at the White Rock Visitor Center, and by riding the bus you can enjoy some of the views on the way to the Bandelier Visitor Center.

Bus to Bandelier National Monument is required to limit congestion and pollutants during peak season, peak times

When we arrived, a park ranger was standing outside to greet our bus with a short welcome as well as telling us about the two main sites along the Main Loop Trail. Many people might only visit the village of Tyuonyi and Cliff Dwellings and turn around after an approximately 1 hour round trip and easy 1 1/4 mile total walk. Others like F and I went on for an extra 30 minutes and 1/2 mile each way to Alcove House which has a steep 140 foot climb on 4 ladders – so definitely is not for those afraid of heights.

There is a little pamphlet the ranger pointed out that besides the $12 entrance fee for the park, that you can purchase for an additional $1 to give you more information about everything you see. I think the mini guide is highly worth the small additional fee as it gives you information at 21 numbered points along the Main Loop Trail.
Bandelier National Monument, arriving at the visitor center the bus was greeted by a ranger who gives a quick couple minute intro

Here’s a little look at some of the wonderful views while I’m still standing in the parking lot of the Bandelier Visitor Center… we haven’t even walked into the visitor center yet. Also make sure you do your bathroom stop here before you to go out as there are no facilities past the visitor center along the trails! There is also a small cafe for food and drinks if you wish.
Bandelier National Monument - view at the Visitors Center parking lot

The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon is volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. You can see then why this area was popular with the Ancestral Pueblo people (also known as Anasazi) who could use tools to enlarge openings and create stone dwellings.
The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance.

Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings

Let’s start with the Main Loop Trail towards Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings. This is the most popular route, a 1.2 mile loop trail that is easy and may take you an hour round trip and includes the 21 stops along Tyounyi pueblo and Cliff Dwellings before you loop back described in the $1 mini guide from the visitor center.

The first thing you will come across is a Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center. Back in the day, it would have been covered by a roof of wood and dirt that was plastered with mud strong enough so people could walk on it. and the roof itself is also supported by six wooden pillars. People would have entered the darkened underground room lit by torches by climbing a ladder down.
Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico, Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center

Not far after the kiva you will encounter the walls of the village of Tyuonyi, which is only one of several large puebelos inside the Bandelier National Monument. Tyuonyi was about two stories and four hundred rooms.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

You won’t see this view until you are further along the path, but I’ll show them now to help give you an idea of the size of Tyuonyi village.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

One of the fascinating thoughts I had was how Tyuonyi was constructed six hundred years ago – but at those same times, the caves were also occupied. You can even see the cliff dwellings now from Tyounyi – and the photos above were when I was at the cliff dwellings look back upon Tyuonyi. It makes you wonder what determined who lived in the caves or in the canyon. Family? Clan? Preference, like the way some people choose to live in the city and others in the suburbs?

There’s a fork slightly after the Tyuonyi village where you can choose to go to the first set of Cliff Dwellings, called Talus Houses, but which have several stairs, or you can take the trail to the Cliff Dwellings called Long House that has fewer stairs. We visited both so you can see the difference between the two. The Talus Houses will have ladders to visit inside the dwellings, but the Cliff Dwellings will not.

The Cliff Dwellings in the Talus Houses area are many cave rooms / cavates and alcoves, often with ceilings blackened by soot to harden them, and perhaps some rock drawings. Be sure to stay on the trail and only enter caves that have ladders because you don’t want to contribute to eroding the tuff.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall.

And here’s another view of Tyounyi Village from the viewpoint of the Cave Dwellings
Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from one of the cavates of the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference

The trail here zig zags with stairs through the cliffs, and provides access to more dwellings. The Ancestral Pueblo were small people, averaging five feet for women and five feet six for men, and living to about 35 years. The fact that there are many homes in this row along the canyon wall made me wonder if it was humming with activity like the village of Tyuonyi, or maybe this was the quieter suburbs with slightly more privacy? Or was this the “city high rise” life of its time?
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings.

Some of the pathways were quite slim, fitting only one person. You can also see when we looked back why we were pretty much alone or only with a handful of people – there was a big storm on the horizon, including lightening. Fortunately the wind blew the storm a different direction past us. I didn’t encounter it until much later in the evening, while driving from back to our lodgings after a post hike stop at Santa Fe Brewing.
Looking back from the Talus Houses Cliff Dwellings in Bandelier National Monument at the storm on the horrizon, and the slim pathway fitting only one person we went through

Now we have arrived at the part of Cliff Dwellings known as Long House. These are multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. Extended families lived together with each group having their own storage room, sleeping quarters, and kiva. There are no ladders to visit any of these dwellings.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes.

Alcove House

Walk another 30 minutes, about 1/2 a mile one way, rather than turning around to return to the visitors center if you want to visit Alcove House. It’s an easy walk, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders – 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.

I did mention they were steep right? It’s the same way going up and down – only the ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.

You are climbing to the top to reach a large alcove area.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area.

Eats and Drinks

On the way to Bandelier National Monument, consider stopping to eat before or after your visit at Gabriel’s. We happened to pick Gabriel’s to fuel us, and then went to Santa Fe Brewing Company (which is just a simple no frills tasting room with beer only) after the park visit.

Here’s the view just from the parking lot! There is some outdoor seating that has this view too. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area.
we stop for lunch at Gabriel's which had this view from their parking lot. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area Lunch at Gabriel's, just outside Santa Fe and on the way to Bandelier National Monument Lunch at Gabriel's, it was too cool outside to sit on the patio but there was a great view

I also loved how the inside is full of unique bold bright Southwest art with nods to nature, especially the ornamental birdhouses.
Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging

The complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole
Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole

For the vegetarian, you have choices like the vegetarian Black Bean Burrito with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and corn. Also available were vegetarian enchiladas tamales, and fajitas.
Lunch at Gabriel's, Black Bean Burritio with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and cor

I was tempted by multiple dishes but eventually picked out the Green Chili Stew (which I forgot to take a photo of, it was a chunks of pork and potatoes stewed in New Mexico green chile served with soft tortillas) and this Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese. I would definitely recommend Gabriel’s and would return myself for more of the menu that I was tempted by!
Lunch at Gabriel's, the Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese

Have you been to New Mexico, or Santa Fe, or Bandelier National Monument? What do you think of the sights I shared at Bandelier? Would you go up and down the ladders of Alcove House?

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

Santa Fe Eats

Santa Fe Travels: Bandelier National Monument

Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings

Alcove House

Eats and Drinks

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