Archives for February 2013

Honoring President Lincoln with vegetarian Chicken Fricassee

President Abraham Lincoln’s birthday is February 12, and his favorite foods (at least per the first page of google results of my internet research) included simple plain food like fruit, nuts, crackers and cheese, as well as Chicken Fricassee with biscuits, oyster stew, and apple pie. So I decided to make a vegetarian version of chicken fricassee.

As my base, I decided to follow this recipe of Thomas Jefferson’s Chicken Fricassee via CD Kitchen in order to also pay respects to also past awesome president Thomas Jefferson (sometimes called “America’s founding foodie” because he was such a lover of food) and which seasons the chicken at the start, while also reducing it to feed 4 people. Reducing the recipe made it easier mathematically so I could also combine it with what was the deliciousness of Martha Stewart’s version that uses a mirepoix and fresh tarragon. I knew that since I was using fake chicken instead of actual chicken that meant I needed to up the flavor of the broth in some way.

Cooking fricassee is in between making a sauté and a stew where you need to let the flavors get absorbed over a long time- so the first half is all sautéing, and then there is 30 minutes of just letting the flavors open up while it all stews together.

I happen to like Quorn‘s chicken (which they call chik’n) the best- they have both basic meat substitute options like what I’m using here so I can cook my own versions of recipe but I also love their prepared meal options particularly their breaded fake chicken line that includes cutlets that are with gruyere or stuffed with jalapeno and three cheese. Clearly it doesn’t taste like real chicken, but even for someone like me that still knows what meat tastes like (unlike F who has been without for more than a decade), the taste is still pretty good.

The original recipe called for various pounds of chicken, which I loosely translated to two 12 ounce packages of the frozen chik’n pieces Quorn offers. Each package is listed to supposedly have 4 servings, but I think that is only possible if you are serving the chik’n in the same quantities as you would actual chicken meat as part of a meal that included other dishes- and consider that each serving is 80 calories.

Ingredients

  • 2 12 ounce packages of Quorn “chik’n tenders”, which you can find in the healthy/natural freezer section
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  • 4 tablespoons butter, separated in 2 2-tablespoons
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup of diced onion
  • 1/2 cup of diced carrot
  • 1/3 cup of diced celery
  • 8 ounces of fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/3 cups water
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, or 1 teaspoon of dried chopped parsley
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon of dried chopped thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2/3 cup half and half cream
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • biscuits or noodles or rice, dealer’s choice

Directions

  1. Sprinkle the chik’n pieces with salt, pepper, nutmeg and paprika and mix.
    the still frozen Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee
  2. On medium high heat, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter with the tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a good size pot as everything is going to eventually go into this pot, use a Dutch oven if you have one. I don’t, so I used my super XL deep pan. Warm the chik’n until it no longer looks frozen and could passable look like chicken pieces and is fragrant, depending on how much surface area you have try to brown the chik’n if you can. I admit I added a little smidge more of butter because it got absorbed to get a little hint of browning, but I was also heating this in a pot to start until I realized I had a giant pan. Remove just the chik’n to a plate.
    cooking Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee cooking Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee
  3. Next, add the other 2 tablespoons of butter and melt, and add in the mirepoix (onion, carrot, and celery) to your Dutch oven/humongo pan and let it sit on the heat for a while until the onion is golden and has specks of brown. Be patient, as sweating these down will take about 8 to 10 minutes and you only want to stir every once in a while to scrape/even out the brown bits.
    Mirepoix Mirepoix sweating
  4. Now add in the mushrooms and continue to stir occasionally until the mushrooms have darkened and begun to release their liquids. At this point, reduce heat to medium, and add the 2 tablespoons off flour, and cook for another minute until all the flour disappears.
    mushrooms ready as they release juices for flour step of chicken fricassee
  5. Add in the water and wine. Return the chik’n to the pot and add the parsley and thyme (I used dried herbs here) and bring everything to a boil. Now cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer, simmer, simmer it for 30 minutes. While this is happening, feel free to make your biscuits, or noodles, or rice, whatever you want to serve this chicken fricassee with.
    dry white French wine making chicken fricassee, adding wine and water and beginning the stew part making chicken fricassee, adding wine and water and chik'n and beginning the stew part
  6. Now, the finishing touches. Reduce the heat to your lowest setting possible, and slowly pour in the cream to thicken the sauce, stirring constantly (so you could possibly use other options such as yogurt or silken tofu in theory).  Add the fresh tarragon and sage, and the lemon juice.  Bring to a simmer, stir gently to combine, and serve.
    sage and tarragon making chicken fricassee, after 30 minutes or so of simmering Adding sage, tarragon, lemon juice after a touch of cream to chicken fricassee

Let me assure you now that even though this uses chik’n, this dish is phenomenal tasty. F liked eating it just out of the pan, so the carbs are quite optional. But President Lincoln liked it with biscuits, so here we are. Lincoln didn’t really drink, but feel free to enjoy the rest of the dry white wine (I used a French bottle of Vignobles Fontan Domaine de Maubet Blanc Sec) with your meal.

Chicken fricassee, with vegetarian chik'n by Quorn Chicken fricassee, with vegetarian chik'n by Quorn

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Grilled Cheese Please to honor FDR, and more cheese opportunities

Ever since I made those asparagus and cheese sandwiches based on Homesick Texan for her Parmesan coated toasted bread, I have been also using that parmesan coating for regular grilled cheese too sometimes when feeling like I want a hug from the gloomy winter weather. You can tell it was one of those days based on the poor lighting in my kitchen 🙁

All you have to do is sprinkle shredded parmesan on the buttered part of the bread. The upgrade is easy, and it adds a bit of crispy cheesy crust to the toast and oozy cheese inside for a textural upgrade to a normal grilled cheese. I don’t have a toaster oven so I melt my cheese in the oven, and I will flip the sandwich and top the other half with parmesan once the color looks right (depending on the bread). I prefer making grilled cheese in the oven rather than a pan or griddle because I can be sure the cheese will get melty and oozy, which doesn’t always happen when I’m using the pan before the bread is already toasted and starting to take the approach of getting burned.

Besides, that gives you time to heat up your soup or stew, or prep a side salad. Mmmm, winter hug with food. And, it ties in nicely with this month and upcoming Presidents’ Day- grilled cheese was one of FDR’s favorite foods. Franklin D Roosevelt is one of the most quotable presidents of history, and his quotes reveal his introspection and understanding of the nature of humanity and the path America was on – including stating several warnings about the rise of private power and how poverty and unemployment and a culture of fear was the enemy of democracy.




And… back to food. I always have a preference for seedy oat bread, which is what you see here, as well as two slices of smoked provolone- and a bit of melted butter and pinch of parmesan on each side, that’s it! I have historically always kept it simple, using a really nice cheese that is flavorful so that I only need a couple slices in it rather than stacking up a multi-cheese sandwich.

parmesan crusted grilled cheese parmesan crusted grilled cheese parmesan crusted grilled cheese

parmesan crusted grilled cheese

Though now, looking at all the food porn photos of grilled cheese at Grilled Cheese Social and whenever I glance at the Grilled Cheese recipe books by Laura Werlin, it is something I might reconsider.  These ladies really puts together some incredible sounding grilled cheese combinations. Now Laura Werlin has a new Mac and Cheese book out too. I’m so jealous of her life. Her ability to just remember and list out recommendations of various amazing cheeses is something I aspire to- which is why starting this year I am now starting a cheese notebook to track what I try.

I’ll aspire but probably never be cheese champions like Laura or Steve of Cheese Bar, but I hope to be more conscious of learning instead of just eating it! But of course, I will continue to just love it even as F points out the contradiction of trying to eat healthier but never ever being able to give up cheese and wanting more cheese. One of the best ways I learned about cheese was during Steve and Ten 01 (since closed) one time event the Cheese Bar Spectacular in summer 2010. 100 cheeses is a lot to try and even I got cheesed out, but it made me hone in what I liked and didn’t like though comparisons.

There is an upcoming event that can help you (and me) with this though: the annual Boys & Girls Clubs’ Showcase of Wine and Cheese. Every year this is a ticket that grants you entrance to a room in the Oregon Convention center where you can sample hundreds of wines and there are cheese vendors and an appetizers buffet. I missed this event last year because I was traveling internationally for work and the year before that because of family in town, but I plan to support them again this year. The cheeses are not going to be artisan cheeses as they are too small to donate to the hundreds that attend this event, but I don’t discriminate against any cheese and it is still a great way to get introduced and practice your palate.

Also consider this kickstarter for a community cheese club that Cyril is starting:

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Lunches at Lardo

Lardo PDX– sniff. I remember when we first met, when it was a new food cart, brand new and just custom built, when I attended the annual food cart festival Eat Mobile 2011. I also visited it on a food cart tour. Then, the cart grew up- so fast!- to a brick and mortar location, first on the east side of the river, and now on the west side where I visited its bright shiny digs with huge glass windows and doors and the same clean wood and food that celebrates fat. F/Jack that can eat no fat hates this place, but I naturally love it. Now they are so grown up they are throwing Super Bowl parties with heated tents and a big screen and game day food today, and earlier this month collaborated to offer a Swine and Barley Wine event (A Pig Out Production) of barleywine pairings with offerings from their menu and cheese from Steve’s Cheese (check out a take from an attendee at one of the local PDX blogs I follow, Beer Musings from Portland)

In their transformation from food cart to two physical restaurants, they still have a very casual level of service.  I’ve seen this in many places in Portland in order to reduce service staff costs. You go up and order from a chalkboard on the wall, and are handed a number so that your order can be delivered to you, and then you bus yourself to the bins. Wisely, they already have to go boxes for your leftovers out.

I also want to assure you that what is pictured below is more than one lunch I had at Lardo, and these sandwiches are not all mine. You don’t need to fear for my heart and whether I can continue to enjoy deliciousness. This was not one meal.

First of all, the Bloody Mary is quite spicy! I loved it! There haven been many a bloody mary that I have tried around PDX that didn’t bring it (and with great distilleries like New Deal with their Hot Monkey vodka and so much heirloom tomatoes and homemade pickling!). Thankfully, Lardo brought it to punch with flavor with their take on a bloody mary. As I waited for my order to be prepared (they do so to order), that bloody mary really raised my expectations of what I was about to experience, as it ranked right up there with ones I’ve had at for instance when I visited Tasty N Sons and my brunch at Simpatica.

Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Bloody Mary

You may consider bringing a friend to share with if you get the double burger and fries- I felt my heart would burst just eating that half of a Double Burger (with both Cascade natural beef and pork belly as the meats along with the cheddar and lardo sauce) and the Dirty Fries. Oh those Dirty Fries with fried pork fat scraps, marinated peppers, fried herbs and parmesan, a tasty but filling combination on the tastebuds of savory and salty and spicy and sour, both crispy and so lingeringly soft in the same chew. Genius.

I’m not sure why you would not order these fries dirty- you sort of need all those peppers to balance out that pork belly on the burger. Not to say the pork belly isn’t delicious- at one point I separated them out to eat them individually to savor them, and even without the pork belly that burger is so juicy and messy and glorious. I can see this showing up on the national charts of Food & Wine as one of the best burgers in the US, and it is definitely in the top 3 for Portland.

Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant
Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Other sandwiches I was able to sample included the fried chicken sandwich, eggplant parmesan, and porchetta sandwich. The fried chicken sandwich was decent but I was hoping for more- I don’t mind cold fried chicken, and the description of Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles sounded promising. But, I realized as I ate it that I was hoping for a cold fried chicken that would compare well with cold chicken from Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Maybe my memories are rosy since it has been years since I’ve had KFC since I don’t eat fast food chains anymore, but I remember not minding leftover KFC the next day because of the wonderful seasoning on their original recipe chicken or the extra crispy chicken version still having a corner of super crunch here or there. Neither of this was true with the cold fried chicken from Lardo, and I was hoping they would have celebrated the fat of the skin more either with seasoning to let it sing, or lots of breading to highlight extra crispy skin. I also wouldn’t have minded more blue cheese, such as Rogue blue cheese tang.

Meanwhile, Lardo’s Eggplant Parm ‘Old School’ with tomato sauce, provolone, basil was messy with its generous saucing, and the breading still had a bit of crispness despite it. It is a good option for the vegetarian who you drag to eat Lardo with you. In fact, Lardo offers two vegetarian sandwiches- there was also a Rapini sandwich with aged provolone, capers, and red pepper agrodolce available as an option.

Fried Chicken Sandwich, Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Fried Chicken Sandwich, Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Eggplant Parm, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Eggplant Parm, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Finally, Lardo’s signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata that have been written up nationally including the recipe shared at Saveur. It’s a sandwich of fatty melt in your mouth pork belly that is wrapped around the roasted pork and doesn’t apologize for it, and in fact adds all that good olive oil and gremolata on top (though seriously just the meat/fat combo itself is already luscious).

Lardo's signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Lardo's signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Lardo is serious about bringing the fat back. And, it doesn’t hurt that now with having a restaurant space (two actually!), they can offer half a dozen options for cocktails and more than a dozen local Northwest microbrew beers to wash that extreme richness down with. They also have pie holes- I stared so wistfully at those pecan pie holes but couldn’t muster the courage to add more to my arteries in one meal (well, also considering what gluttony the meal order already consisted of as you see. I more than blew my caloric allowance before dessert…) Not a single thing is more than $10, but every item is an indulgent pleasure that seems to border on sinful in its exaltation of richness.

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