Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner

I was so thrilled about a week ago to be invited to join in a Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Menu. This pop up dinner at her home was themed as a dinner of Indian Fusion in celebration Holi, also known as the Indian Festival of Color which celebrates the beginning of spring, and you may have seen photos where celebrants throw colored powder at each other. There was no throwing of colored powder at this dinner, but lots of gorgeous colors in the various dishes.

I loved how this event was produced in the intimacy of her home, but it was plated like a fine dining establishment. There were so many complex flavors that would explode or sneak up and blossom and linger, or as my dining friend put it “cuddle” the palate. Ruchikala, is the business name for the personal chef and catering service of Kusuma Rao, who is newly arrived practically from Tucson, Arizona. I have been stalking her ever since I discovered her breads, although she also does fusion cuisine that blends her Indian heritage with the nurturing Sonoran Mexican flavors she grew up and seriously, go look at her bread gallery photos and you’ll understand why I am getting a semi-obsessive crush here. My food photos below do not do justice- you have to check out what food pron photos she took of these from her practice run!

5 Courses of Color

Upon arriving at her lovely home in inner SE Portland, we were welcomed with a refreshing cocktail of Fennel, fenugreek, nigella and cumin simple syrup with lime zest & Aviation Gin. Seriously I want that served to me in carafe or by the pitcher please.

Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

Course I
South Indian Beet Fritter with curry leaves and coconut, resting upon a beautiful pond of colors of beet stem curry, mint chutney and sweet yoghurt
South Indian Beet Fritter Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao South Indian Beet Fritter Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

Course II
Bengali Butternut Squash Bisque with nigella, fennel, maple & habanero with coconut cream, and a garnish of spiced candied bacon
Bengali Butternut Squash Bisque Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao Bengali Butternut Squash Bisque Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao Bengali Butternut Squash Bisque Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

Course III
Kale and Fennel Riata with preserved lemon, Kashmiri chili yoghurt, fried mustard seeds & curry leaves and avocado
Kale and Fennel Riata Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

Course IV
North & South – Lamb & Polenta, with Lamb Rogan Josh & arugula dressed simply in a bit of oil on Lemon coconut spiced polenta, and served with a thick slice of Bengali spice rye with honey goat butter
Lamb Rogan Josh Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

Course V
Falooda Rose Panna Cotta with basil infused salted white chocolate and rose syrup swelled basil seeds
Falooda Rose Panna Cotta with basil infused salted white chocolate and rose syrup swelled basil seeds Ruchikala: Art of Taste Spring Pop-up Dinner Holi Kusama Rao

I’m hard pressed to pick what I loved most. What really stood out throughout the meal I suppose is that she goes bold, both in visually and texturally and with the flavor that results from her spice blends. As she described each dish as it was brought to the table, I was struck by how she could tell a story that traced it back to India, but then as she would casually mention all the various things she put into the dish like a boss,  it  was clear this just wasn’t simple home cooking, unless your home perhaps is on an estate with a butler included.

But there I was, with 7 other women, chatting in between courses what butter incorporation trick to use in making pie crust and in the corner was a Halloween spider that would go up and down based on opening and closing the front door (apparently more booby trap existed in the bathroom…) and on the shelf was an 8 track player and a vintage silver stereo receiver, and Kumi would come up and impress us with describing the dish and then do a girlish giggle that exposes her infectious enthusiasm for playing with food and loving to feed people.

I loved the texture of the crispiness of the beet fritter with the chopped leaves that still were large enough to see and feel on the tongue, yet the creaminess and color of the chutney and yogurt. Everyone at the table was hoarding their spiced candied bacon whose sweetness was a cooling counter to the heat that crept up on the Bengali butternut squash bisque whose spice washed over me in a slow but steady rhythm. The salad third course with its mix of textures including little crunches from the fried mustard seeds was a chewy interlude.

Next, the lamb and polenta was so good that I knew I was getting full and wanted to savor the last bites later, so with no shame (well, a little embarrassment) asked to wrap it up to take home with me. The next evening as I was enjoying the heartiness of her homemade rye bread though I was SO glad I did so I could take all the little baby bird bites I wanted to make it last and last without the other guests at the pop up dinner starting at my nibbles.

Despite the take out request, I totally polished off the final course, the perfectly jiggly wiggly panna cotta with the salted so rich chocolate and the textures of the delicate rose with those caviar like basil seeds. Everyone’s plates were clean though, not just mine.

So happy, so happy.

Signature

Saturday Reportout: Market Gourmet/Tart Lady’s Birds Nest with Bacon and Egg + FHWAF

So far this weekend…

I ate this! Market Gourmet (also known as the Tart Lady) at the Portland Farmers Market at PSU: Birds Nest with Bacon and Egg… purchased on Saturday. It was the perfect way to start the Easter weekend.

Tart Lady Market Gourmet Birds Nest Created with a puff pastry, filled with Havarti & Asiago Cheeses, Ham and topped with a cracked egg

And then I was off to the first Portland Farmhouse and Wild Ale Festival at Saraveza. what you see below was the first beer I had, the Solera Brewing “Lapin Lover” Wild Kriek.

Portland Farmhouse and Wild Ale Festival Solera Brewing Lapin Lover Wild Kriek Portland Farmhouse and Wild Ale Festival Solera Brewing Lapin Lover Wild Kriek

Later, we went to the Tardis Room where I had a huge goblet of a Bloody Doctor (bloody mary) and we played a few rounds of pool and a plate of fish and chips, beans and toast, and mushy peas (basically, repeating our last visit, but with friends instead of just F and I) before returning home. I prepped an Easter Strata, which I will share in an upcoming post.

Signature

Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night

On March 21st, Alma Chocolates hosted Alberta St.’s The Cheese Plate Food Cart in the Alma Kitchen to create a dinner of inventive grilled cheese bites. The Alma Kitchen is separate from their shop on NE 28th- instead this is a special event room in the newly renovated 105 year old American Brush Building, a former candy factory and grocery distribution center and then American Brush company (and thus the name- the sign for this still is painted on in white letters on the red bricks on one side of the building as you approach from Burnside) and which is supposedly haunted. Thankfully, although the building is rather quiet, when I pulled open one of the two bathroom doors at the end of the hall (not marked- you just have to look for the sliding lock that switches from In Use to Vacant) that said Vacant and saw just a bunch of janitorial and construction tools, I quickly closed it but nothing was moving and I noticed no shadows.

The event was set up as a casual cocktail party with rustic charm using burlap sacks to cover tables and the glow of lots of white candles: it would not have surprised me to hear there were 100 candles throughout the room.

There were a few wooden chairs set up at small tables along the walls around the rectangular space. This was a bit of a surprise to me as most cocktail events I know use lots of tall cocktail tables so that people may not be sitting, but they can anchor themselves by putting food and drink there, and those are throughout the space, including the middle. I got there close to when the doors opened at 6 and my friends and I snagged chairs by a good sized table, but more chairs must have been brought in as additional people sat in a row behind us. Most people ended up being able to sit as the staff brought out the wooden cutting boards to pass out bites of the grilled cheeses, although a few were left leaning against a wall. In the corner, musicians with a guitar and saxophone provided background music.

Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen

The first half hour included snacking from a table with plates of cheese and Alma chocolate- preview of individual bites of all of the cheeses that were being used in the sandwiches we would soon enjoy: River’s Edge “Up in Smoke” Chèvre, Portland Creamery “Sweet Fire” chèvre, Willamette Valley French Prairie Brie, Briar Rose Creamery Feta, Rogue Creamery “Crater Lake” Blue, La Mariposa Five Corners cheese, and Briar Rose Creamery “Madrona” (tallegio style) cheese.

When you first entered the room and saw this table, you couldn’t help but be really impressed by the selection and quality of artisan goods here. The accompaniment here of popcorn rather than the expected vehicle of crackers or baguettes was surprising (especially given 2 of the 5 cheeses were chèvres and how awesome the PDX Cheese Cart’s homemade crackers which I sampled at Wedge 2012 are) but that didn’t stop anyone from enjoying the cheeses, and kept our appetite ready for the grilled cheese bites.

Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Briar Rose Creamery "Madrona" (tallegio style) cheese Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Portland Creamery "Sweet Fire" chèvre Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Rogue Creamery "Crater Lake" Blue Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen La Mariposa Five Corners cheese Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Briar Rose Creamery Feta Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Willamette Valley French Prairie Brie Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Meyer Lemon Bourbon chocolate truffle Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Coconut Mexican and Habanero Caramel chocolate truffles Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen

The Menu of Oregon Cheese & Alma Chocolate included

  • Briar Rose Creamery “Madrona” with pear chutney, toasted and sandwiched with salted peanut butter cup cookies. A great start and end salty and savory and sweet “grilled cheese” course.
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Briar Rose Creamery Madrona salted peanut butter cup cookie sandwich Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Briar Rose Creamery Madrona salted peanut butter cup cookie sandwich
  • Rogue Creamery “Crater Lake Blue” with mocha almond nibby bark, toasted on cranberry bread. Warming up the blue cheese really brought out more of the flavor
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Rogue Creamery Crater Lake Blue with mocha almond nibby bark, toasted on cranberry bread Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Rogue Creamery Crater Lake Blue with mocha almond nibby bark, toasted on cranberry bread
  • Willamette Valley “French Prairie Brie,” habanero caramel, toasted on warm moist banana bread, I may have had 3 of these and taken 4 bites home in one of the pink boxes they offered at the end…
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Willamette Valley French Prairie Brie, habanero caramel, banana bread
  • La Mariposa “Five Corners” cheese and Briar Rose Creamery Feta, Mexican chocolate mole sauce, toasted on corn bread. Although this was tasty, since I was able to enjoy larger chunks of the feta earlier during the first half hour (which is mild and not as salty as you might assume with feta), I would say I liked it earlier than here because there just wasn’t enough of it and although I could see the Five Corners cheese it got a little lost with the corn bread and mole.
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen La Mariposa Five Corners cheese and Briar Rose Creamery Feta, Mexican chocolate mole sauce, corn bread Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen La Mariposa Five Corners cheese and Briar Rose Creamery Feta, Mexican chocolate mole sauce, corn bread
  • Portland Creamery “Sweet Fire Chèvre,” shaved dark chocolate truffle, toasted on buttery soft almond brioche was a spicy sweet soft bite
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen Portland Creamery Sweet Fire Chèvre shaved dark chocolate truffle, almond brioche
  • River’s Edge “Up in Smoke” Chèvre, lavender caramel sauce, toasted on pretzel bread. This was my favorite cheese of the night with its strong smoky flavor
    Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen River’s Edge Up in Smoke Chèvre, lavender caramel sauce,pretzel bread

The event was BYOB, although DRY’s sodas were also available in vanilla bean or lavender or you could mix the two! I really liked the vanilla bean soda- and although we also enjoyed a bubbly sparkling wine I had brought along, the soda also was a lovely refreshing pairing. The April F+P birthday party is coming up in April, and I am intrigued with the idea of including a couple cases of DRY soda with a bar for DIY mixers: if you visit the website they offer several cocktail mix recipes.
Alma Dinner Series: Grilled Cheese Night at the Alma Kitchen DRY soda vanilla bean

The next event in the Alma Dinner series is An Evening of Beer + Chocolate featuring five local breweries (Alameda, pFriem, Hopworks, The Commons Brewery, and Double Mountain) and five local chocolatiers (Alma Chocolate, Cacao, Cocanu, Woodblock, and Xocolatl de David) pairing their chocolate and beer together on April 4th, again at the Alma Studio.

Signature

Raven and Rose: Raven & Rye

This past Tuesday, Raven & Rose did it again by holding an event dubbed Raven & Rye with James C. Russell, master distiller at the Wild Turkey Distillery where he served more than 50 years. Jimmy is carrying on the tradition from his grandfather, father, and which he passed to his son (who has also worked there more than 20 years now). Jimmy is so beloved at Wild Turkey, they named one of their finest products after him in 2000–the 10-year-old Russell’s Reserve – and it was going to be available at this event. The Raven and Rye event was an opportunity to meet Jimmy and besides the Russell’s Reserve, also provided a chance explore other Wild Turkey cocktails. Sounds dangerous right?

I was there… and here is the proof!

Spring has arrived in Portland and Raven & Rose, as well as new signs for Raven & Rose now hanging outside the beautiful historic building (which I had wrote a little about during my first visit for Beer with the Bird)  which were new from my last visit:

I got to the Rookery around 4:15 and the barstools  at the bar were already all full! I quickly snagged a table for my friends and I right by the entrance, and also because I saw that the table where the complimentary snacks courtesy of of Young’s Market Company of Oregon would only be a few steps away in their library area.

This time I budgeted myself only two beverages. I started with the Continental Sour drink with Wild Turkey 101, lemon juice, sugar, egg white, red wine.

They were just bringing out some of the platters of Young’s Market Company of Oregon complimentary appetizers, so I was able to grab some photos before all the nibbling started. It was an impressive spread fit for the sophistication of the event. My favorites were the Rabbit Liverwurst on toast with grain mustard and the Roasted Beets and mint on Belgian endive with kumquats.
 

I was also able to take a sip of my friend’s beautiful cocktail, the Tyrone Road Punch with Wild Turkey rye, meyer lemon peel, chamomile, lemon myrtle, peppermint, lemon juice, and bitter lemon soda. I also took a sip from her Cocktail a la Louisiane with Wild Turkey rye, Benedictine, Dolin Rouge, Pacifique absinthe, and Peychaud’s bitters. From how many of these I saw in hand around the room, the Tyrone Road Punch was incredibly well received.

Jimmy and his son charmed us by telling us a little about themselves and the tasting process, as well as answering some questions from the audience.

After trying all three (the other 2 were the Wild Turkey Rare Breed and the Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit Single Barrel, not my glasses but I got a little taste), my favorite was the Russell Reserve 10 year bourbon, for its caramel vanilla smoothness and tamer spice level at the finish.

Another great event at the Rookery! I already have plans for St Patrick’s, but Raven & Rose is also putting together quite the shindig including Irish cheese plate and Irish nettle soup and live Irish music and Jameson Irish whiskey flights if you have the opportunity!

Signature

Sunday Supper at Meriwethers with Portland Creamery

Meriwether’s Restaurant is one of those restaurants I like to recommend for showcasing northwest farm to table cuisine. This is taken quite literally here at Meriwether’s- the owners have 5 acres of farm aka Skyline Farm that they use as a source. The fact that Meriwether’s also has its own parking lot makes it convenient for out of town visitors, and during nice weather their outdoor garden patio with stone paths and a gazebo with firepit are a nice alfresco dining escape.  The restaurant is within a historic building on the entrance location of the World’s Fair 1905, and the exterior of the building is pretty much the same as from that time- check out the photos inside and see for yourself!
exterior of Meriwether's restaurant in Portland exterior of Meriwether's restaurant in Portland exterior of Meriwether's restaurant in Portland interior of Meriwether's restaurant in Portland- bar area, viewed from by the host stand interior of Meriwether's restaurant in Portland

I’ve only been to Meriwether’s for brunch so far, but, they are open for lunch, dinner, and happy hour of course as well, and this would be my first dinner. But… it’s a special dinner. Meriwether’s has Sunday Supper, which is a farm to table dining series they have had for a few month to highlight their local purveyors.  This past Sunday, they featured a 4 course menu for $38 inspired from Portland Creamery artisan goat cheese while also utilizing produce harvested from their own Skyline Farm and products from other Oregon artisans. Liz Alvis, Owner and Cheesemaker of Portland Creamery, also attended and discussed and answered questions about how they produce their handcrafted goat cheese.
Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery, the menu Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery, the pics of the goats by Meriwether's fireplace

The first 30 minutes was people arriving and being seated at the communal tables, where the meal would be served family style. Most people took this opportunity to order cocktails or bottle(s) of wine. I stuck with something simple to refresh me from my fast paced walk from my house to Morrison and from 23rd St and Thurman to the restaurant (exercise! So I can eat all this cheese!). I also wanted to keep my palate relatively clean for the cheese to come. So I opted for the Lewis Lemonade with Indio Marionberry vodka, housemade marionberry puree, and hand squeezed lemonade. Unfortunately it didn’t have much flavor: perhaps all the better lemons and the bulk of the puree already got used up at the earlier brunch.

They did offer wine pairing suggestions for every course, but since they were full glasses it was more than I could hope to handle, and at the same prices as buying wine by the glass, it made sense for groups to just opt for a bottle(s) instead.
Meriwether's cocktail menu in March 2013 Meriwether's cocktail drink Lewis Lemonade with Indio Marionberry vodka, housemade marionberry puree, and hand squeezed lemonade

Executive Chefs Peter Kuhlman and Joshua Steiner started out the meal by describing how they incorporated cheese into all of the dishes. Later, as dessert was being served, Liz Alvis stood up and told us a few tales from the farm about her “girls” (the goats). Liz comes from a family that loves cheese- her mother and brother are running Mackenzie Creamery and source their goats milk from the Amish country in Ohio. So, even though Portland Creamery only started in fall of 2011, she has a great background of experience to reference.

Liz is fortunate to have her goat herd source be that of a long fine lineage (30+ year I think?), and in particular told us about how the genetics of the goats are critical in producing superior milk to then make superior cheese. One of the goats in the herd, Tetra (apparently short for Tetrazzini), is an award winning goat, in fact best in the nation, per the American Dairy Goat Association. They use some specific list of 95 points I think Liz said, and yes, there is a time just like with dog shows where the goat walks around in a ring to get shown and inspected!

You could definitely tell the care and affection she has for the goats as she explained how those ladies get the best quality grains, and just that morning as she was ladling curds she would just look out the window and smile and giggle as she watched them butt heads and be silly.
Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Executive Chefs Peter Kuhlman and Joshua Steiner Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Liz Alvis, Owner and Cheesemaker of Portland Creamery

And then, it was time to see and eat the proof. Serve the cheese! We started with an appetizer of Oregon Chevre Crostini with red wine poached pear, honey, and Skyline Farm greens. There was a thick generous smear of the chevre, which is exactly the right amount.
Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Oregon Chevre Crostini with red wine poached pear, honey, and Skyline Farm greens

The salad of Early Spring Greens from Skyline Farms of delicata squash, hazelnut crusted chevre, balsamico came so green and vibrant, and with a big hazelnut crusted chevre ball for each person at the table. The salad was delicious in that it let the flavors from the freshness of the robust mixed greens and of that squash speak for itself.

Each of these communal dishes was for half the table, so plenty for 4 people! I didn’t know that the big individual plate they just gave me was going to be taken away and replaced with an even bigger plate for the main course, so I had stacked my helping all nice to try to keep a cleaner plate: believe me it was a nice portion. That salad plate is the size of my normal dinner plates at home!
Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Early Spring Greens from Skyline Farms of delicata squash, hazelnut crusted chevre, balsamico Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Early Spring Greens from Skyline Farms of delicata squash, hazelnut crusted chevre, balsamico

They also were very generous with the soft doughy focaccia bread, bringing out a couple plates so that everyone could not resist taking 2 or 3 servings of the bread. They were SO GOOD.
Meriwether's  focaccia bread

The main course was Anderson Ranch roasted leg of lamb with farm leeks and mustard cream (with Portland Creamery contributing to the mustard cream). This was served along with an almond and cranberry couscous (I didn’t take a photo of that serving dish, but you can see it on my plate). This was again prepared so that we could taste and appreciate the original wholesome ingredients. Although I was shocked at the size of the lamb cuts when they first arrived on the table, I had no problem eating that whoooole thing. My plate was clean.
Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Anderson Ranch roasted leg of lamb with farm leeks and mustard cream Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Anderson Ranch roasted leg of lamb with farm leeks and mustard cream and almond and cranberry couscous Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Anderson Ranch roasted leg of lamb with farm leeks and mustard cream and almond and cranberry couscous

The dessert course was Apple Tart Tatin with Portland Creamery cajeta and apple mousse. The cajeta, which is a traditional Mexican goat’s milk caramel that thanks to the low slow process with milk and not just using sugar to caramelize, has an extra gooey richness to it.

Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Apple Tart Tatin with Portland Creamery cajeta and apple mousse Meriwether's Sunday Supper series with Portland Creamery Apple Tart Tatin with Portland Creamery cajeta and apple mousse

Liz also hopes to start producing aged cheeses this year, and opening an urban location with a few ambassador goats, in addition to continuing creating fresh cheeses.  And, similar to her, it’s hard for me to believe that all this delicious cheese which we had today was just 6 days ago, fresh milk from her goats. Overall, it was an amazing meal showcasing just how delicious local Northwest cuisine is.

Signature