PCS presents I Love to Eat

I Love to Eat

I Love to Eat I Love to Eat

Written By James Still; Directed by Jessica Kubzansky; Design by Julia McNamara; Art direction by Michael Buchino. Photo by Patrick Weishampel.

I Love to Eat
January 8–February 3, 2013
Presented by Portland Center Stage on the Main Stage
Runs 75 minutes with no intermission
Tuesday – Sunday evenings at 7:30 p.m
Saturday and Sunday matinees at 2 p.m.
Thursday matinees at noon

This one man stage play “celebrates the life and talent of a Portland, Oregon, original—James Beard. Before Julia Child, before today’s proliferation of cooking shows and networks, there was James Beard, the first TV chef. He brought fine cooking to the small screen in 1946 and helped establish an American cuisine. But, as is often the case with pioneers, his early efforts on screen have been lost. He went on to become America’s first “foodie,” and the award bearing his name is still the prize most coveted by chefs. Playwright James Still invites you to meet the man described as ‘the face and belly of American gastronomy’ in this play that recreates an evening at Beard’s New York home.”

The play is performed at the Gerding Theater at the Armory – Main Stage located in the trendy artsy urban Pearl District, so you can plan on grabbing great cocktails and small bites in easy walking distance (such as at my favorites Clyde Common or Teardrop Lounge , although there are many other options too!) before or after the show, and/or dinner. In fact, you may have to go out and have dinner after watching this show after all the food references and watching James Beard (played by Rob Nagle) prepare food during the show.

Portland Center Stage presents I Love to Eat Jan 8–Feb 3: www.pcs.org/eat

For an extra special treat, consider joining in with Forktown Tours, who is doing a special edition tour followed by attending this show called the Portland Loves To Eat tour on Fridays and Saturdays during the show run. Its price-tag of $99 includes a walking tour with food samples and backstory on the life and times of “the Dean of American Cuisine” James Beard and his influence on the way we eat, a backstage tour of the Gerding Theater, an hour of time for you to fill your stomach before then going in for a Friday or Saturday night performance.

Another cool option might be to attend on January 15, after attending PCS’s Shop Talk from 6:30 – 7 p.m. Admission is free, and is a time to get answers from the production staff to questions such as how they created a working kitchen, finding the right foods to include in the production (and after auditioning various brioches and challahs, what kind of bread made the final cut?) Also find out how a fridge be used as an actor’s entrance and about some “sandwich trick”? Come tackle these questions and ask some more of your own at their free pre-show discussion!

Also, for the official West Coast Premier on Friday, January 11th, after the evening performance theater goers will be treated to a tasting reception which will feature 5 of the 7 James Beard winning chefs in Oregon, including Philippe Boulot of Multnomah Athletic Club (and previously the Heathman), Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant, Caprial Pence of Basa Basa, Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon and Little Bird, and Cory Schreiber of The Art Institute of Portland (and founder of Wildwood Restaurant). This $125 event tickets are for a limited time and can only be purchased by visiting directly or calling the Portland Center Stage box office  and providing the code “James Beard Public Market Event” (tickets for the other performances of the show’s run can be purchased over the PCS website.) All proceeds from the evening will benefit the planned James Beard Public Market, a concept for a local market that will rival Pike Place Market but located here in hometown Portland.

Finally, during the performance run PCS is also partnering with the Oregon Food Bank for a food drive, so consider bringing non-perishable items with you. We are very fortunate in that we have choices in deliciousness and can leisurely love to eat, but there are others who are in need and hungry and would love to eat too. Note there is a Whole Foods only a few blocks away. You can also use a promo code FOODBANK that will get you a $5 discount off tickets and PCS will donate $10 to Oregon Food Bank for using the code.

I had mentioned this show to F before Christmas, and after asking a couple times more (it was repetitive reminding…) he purchased matinee tickets for us to attend on January 20,. We’ll be attending with the Foodie Meetup group so that we can join in a free backstage tour – an example how PCS is stepping up to reaching out to the foodie community to celebrate the first Portland Foodie of them all.

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Wedge 2012

The Portland Celebrates Cheese Festival “The Wedge” was back this year on the streets just outside Green Dragon. At a requested $5 donation to benefit the non-profit Oregon Cheese Guild, the entrance to this tasting farmers market of 25 cheese and artisan producers of the Northwest, as well as being able to enjoy in the street “beer garden” music and beers from Green Dragon/Buckman Brewing is well worth it. In addition, Murray’s Cheese from New York (now experimenting with mini-stores at three local Fred Meyers) was offering 3 Cheese Seminars. Unlike last year where from entering the festival it seemed like I was in a neverending line from booth to booth, this year the festival was more organized and spread out, so that I could easily skip and move booth to booth, with never more than a handful of people between me and cheese samples.

Since I love cheese so much, I was already pretty familiar with most of the cheese producers present as I am already a customer at the Farmers Market or the grocery store. It is still a great opportunity to sample cheeses from these vendors that you may have seen and wondered about, try samples from their offerings that are not available to try before you buy (for instance Fraga Farm Goat Cheese and Willamette Valley Cheese had all their cheeses available to sample this day) or try new cheeses they didn’t know they produced. The vendors also are selling the cheeses so you can do your cheese market shopping at the same time! Next time I think I will be more prepared and bring a little cooler bag.
Tillamook Loaf little van  cheeses from Willamette Valley in the case they brought for their boothLa Mariposa cheese has Argentinean roots La Mariposa cheese has Argentinean roots Portland Creamery sells theirs in pretty small packagesfresh cheeses of Bellweather Farms

New to me was trying out the Cheese Plate PDX food cart, as they were offering tastes of their own homemade crackers along with their own fromage fort and fruit or Cavi-art Seaweed “Caviar”. Meanwhile, although I have loved Tumalo Farms Pondhopper cheese as it is spiced with beer, I found a new crush on their nutty Classico. I also enjoyed the sweet burn of Ssmith’s Hot Pepper Sensation “Merlot” spread. Definitely filing all these away for the future.

My favorite cheese vendors of the day were 1. Fern’s Edge Goat Dairy who I believe offers the best local chevres, though they are only at a few select local retailers. Their Apricot–Honey Chèvre, Pear Anise Chèvre, Blueberry Ginger chevre, and my favorite of them all the Fig Walnut Sweet Chèvre with fig, walnut, honey, offer a lot of depth of flavor along with the creaminess of the goats milk cheese that is better than any flavored cream cheese ever. 2. Cypress Grove and their always dependable tasty cheeses, such as Midnight Moon, Humboldt Fog, Truffle Tremor, and a new dill goat cheese called PsycheDillic that uses dill pollen.

The seminars from Murray’s cheese included including one for beer and cheese pairing, one to educate you on the cheeses of the NorthWest region, and how to complement your cheeses with honey, jams, nuts and fresh fruits to make a killer cheese plate experience. I went with the beer and cheese pairing one, which was a partnership of Murray’s with Rogue.

I loved that they gave out a little packet of class notes that we could write on, and best of all, which included a section of different adjectives to describe cheese and tips about how salt reinforces bitter (so you want to put saltier cheeses with sweet), pairing the beverage and cheese so they have finishes of similar lengths. The “what grows together goes together” might be a bit more difficult beer wise as a theme, but would be great for wine and cheese pairing. The matches that we tried and discussed included

  • Good Chit Pilner with Mt Townsend Creamery Cirrus
  • Morimoto Soba Ale with River’s Edge Chevre Siltcoos
  • Ore-gasmic Ale with Rogue Creamery Hopyard Cheddar
  • Chipotle Ale with Willamette Valley Brindisi
  • Chocolate Stout with Tumalo Farms Pondhopper
  • Hazelnut Brown Nectar with Rogue Creamery Smoky Blue

Rogue Ales also hosted a Grilled Cheese Bar station that offered 3 artisan cheeses for the ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich: Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, Rogue Creamery & Rogue Ales collaboration of Rogue Hopyard Cheddar, and Portland Creamery’s Oregon Chevre. Paired with a couple more beers from Green Dragon, it was a perfect finish.

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Fire & Brimstone 2012

This past weekend, two beer bars on N Killingsworth, Saraveza (at address 1004) and Hop & Vine (at address 1914, and which also offers wine, and a bottle shop) hosted the second annual Fire & Brimstone festival. This festival is a celebration of chili-infused beers and smoked beers. $20 gets
a participant ten 5oz pours of their choice of chili or smoked beers, with Saraveza offering 5 options of the beer lineup, and Hop & Vine offering  the other 12 selections, making for a total of 17 beer of chili or smoked flavor profile to enjoy.

First Fire & Brimstone stop for us was Hop & Vine, which offered 4 beers inside from their taps and 6 outside from kegs. Inside:

  • The Fort George Hellcat: a Belgian tripel with pasilla, anaheim, jalapeno, and habanero at a strong 8.2% ABV is not really spicy chili, but you can taste the various types of chili flavors intertwined which gives it a fun tickle on your tastebuds
  • Oakshire Smokin’ Dubbel: this smoked belgian style dubbel
  • Alaskan Smoked Porter ’10: we’ve had this smoked porter in various years, and so skipped it this festival to use our tokens on other beer options
  • Heater Allen Smoky Bobtoberfest: this smoked marzen had a bit of a sour quality, which is not how it tasted before when we’ve had it, making us wonder if something happened to the keg

Then outside, we had

  • Wandering Aengus Anthem Chili Cider: very light and refreshing, you feel the burn at the end
  • Mikkeller Texas Ranger Chipotle Porter: this porter with chipotle peppers is more like a bittersweet Mexican dark chocolate flavored coffee
  • Schmaltz/Terrapin Reunion ’11: with chocolate, cocoa nibs, vanilla, and chilis, this beer was chocolatey chili creaminess like a dessert, the little bit of vanilla made a big difference by adding that bit of sweetness
  • Stone Smoked Porter w/ Chipotle: had a little bit of chili, but seemed more subdued and mostly you can taste the smoked porterness
  • 10 Barrel Rauchbier: had a nice yeasty mouthfeel
  • Dogfish Head Theobrama: this ale with cocoa nibs honey, chilis and annatto is thick and heavy
  • Widmer SxNW: this ale with pecans, chocolate, and chili is similar to the Mikkeller Chipotle porter in that it is a bittersweet dark chocolate flavored coffee with a swirl of some chili that you can taste sometimes
  • Widmer Smoke on the Lager: a smoked helles lager which we skipped to save our tokens for our next stop…

Foodwise, Hop & Vine has the better food options, with a beautiful cheese and charcuterie plate and many appetizer and entree options. I went with a special breakfast item, Jalapeno Pecorino biscuit with smoked pork gravy and fried egg, followed up with Flourless chocolate cake with smoked chili ice cream. Both of these were meant to be savored with the special beers, of course. Particularly, that smoked chili ice cream went wonderfully with the Schmaltz/Terrapin Reunion ’11, whose creaminess helped add to the chocolate cake which was a bit dry, and then a little bit of that smoked chili ice cream to finish each mouthful with a little burn. The Schmaltz/Terrapin Reunion was my favorite beer offered by Hop & Vine for the festival this year.

Next, we followed the orange spraypainted outline of a chili pepper about 10 blocks off to Saraveza. They were the ones offering the 2 foreign, German beers along with their 5 options, All were poured in adorable little baby snifter glasses that I keep wondering if I can go back and maybe buy an extra box they may have, even if it is gently used. Their lineup included

  • Aecht Schlenkerla Marzen: I thought tasted like old world smoke if you decided to breathe in the smoke from an old fashioned wood burning fireplace in an old cabin. F attributed some of this “old world” flavor I described to a hint of “used bandaid” the beer had, in his opinion
  • Aecht Schlenkerla Oak/Smoke Dopplebock: super smokey like a bbq pit
  • Gigantic Hot Town, Summer in the City: a chili Imperial black saison
  • Breakside Smokey Porter: a chili and cocoa strong ale
  • Burnside Sweet Heat: this batch of chili and apricot wheat wasn’t carrying as much heat as previous ones I’ve tried, but I do admire that this beer always looks like it has a fiery glow in a glass
  • As an extra, a regular Saraveza beer patron had brought bottles of Smoking Wood Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged by The Bruery, which Sarah Pederson was generously sharing a little taste of. This was my favorite of all the beers of the festival, with the whiskey barrel pretty pronounced in the rye beer, giving it just enough of a smoke edge without being all liquid smoke.

Foodwise, I was generously offered a tasting bite of the special dish Saraveza was offering for the festival, the “Smokin’ Bamberg Onion Plate”, a traditional Rauch beer meal actually served with Schlenkerla smoked beers. The dish is composed of Bamburg Onion, Mashed Potatoes w/ Schlenkerla gravy, mixed greens salad in a vinaigrette with house smoked bacon bits and cherry tomatoes, side of grilled autumn vegetables and a Sugar Pimp apricot tartlet dessert. The bite I had of the Bamburg Onion, which is a smoked onion stuffed with herbed smoked ground pork which is then topped with bacon and Schlenkerla gravy- all this blended into a wonderful mouthful of smokey savoryness with a bit of creaminess from the gravy and crunch from the onion. Everyone else must have agreed it was super delicious because everyone that I saw eating it at the bar polished the whole plate clean.

 

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Bailey’s Taproom 5th Anniversary Gloriousness 2007-2012

Besides the fact that this Bailey’s Taproom 5th Anniversary celebration of an After Party included advanced ticketing only and limited to 100 people, and a 20 oz 5th anniversary snifter glass for your beer pours at the event and to take home, as well as open taps for all 5 hours and 5 beers not available on Saturday and (wait there’s more!), there was also a glorious cornucopia of complimentary charcuterie from Olympic Provisions and artisan cheese from Cheese Bar, curated by Steve Jones, winner of the national 2011 Cheesemonger Invitational, there he was also behind the counter, diligently keeping the counter full of snackitys.

The Olympic Provisions contribution included their mortadella, pork and pistachio terrine, and the dry cured salami styles of Saucisson d’Alsace (one of my favorites sausages they produce because of the interesting tingle it has from the cinnamon and nutmeg), Saucisson Sec, and touch of spicy Sopressata (from chili flakes) and Chorizo Rioja (from paprika).

All of these went well with any of the amazing barrel aged beers during the event- I don’t know if you can ever mismatch any of these with anything, all of them are so tasty. The only item which was a little harder to eat was the sliced mortadella because of its size, though I understand it would have taken a lot of extra prep to slice them into baguette sized (and maybe top them with a toothpick and cornichon)- usually those slices are perfect sized for awesome sandwiches, not snacking on.

Meanwhile, Steve brought

  • fresh Samish Bay Ladysmith (perfect for the tasty Upright Bailey’s Fifth Anniversary Six with cherry, currant, and sweet vermouth in Pinot barrel and the Commons Cascadian Table Beer Amber with Brett Lambicus in Gin barrel), this was the mildest cheese and probably was the reason this was the first to run out
  • the slightly funkier Mon Sire Raclette (I prefer it warmed and melted which softens the pungency while bringing out more flavor and cream, so paired these with sours and hoppier beers),
  • the boldly sharp Hooks 5 year cheddar (which found its match in the Block 15 Imagine and other >10% beers such as the Stone 2008 Imperial Russian Stout in Bourbon barrel and the Uinta Labyrinth Imperial Black Ale in Rye Whiskey barrel),
  • and Rogue Smokey Blue (also good with any strongly alcoholed beer) that had a smokey salty flavor.

Beer at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness
Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness

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Breakside Brewer’s Dinner at Wildwood

There was a Wildwood restaurant event of a Brewer’s dinner with Breakside Brewery Friday, 6.29 in Wildwood’s back (and newly renovated event space) Wood Room. Wildwood’s Paul Kasten & Breakside Brewery’s Ben Edmunds recently collaborated to brew “Old Woody”, another one of Breakside’s series in which Brewer Ben works with a restaurant chef to make an interesting beer. They then created a special pairing dinner to pair various Breakside Brewery beer with Chef Paul’s gastronomic creations, including of course drinking “Old Woody”. All this was at the reservation price of $65 which was inclusive of food, beer and gratuity… yes that’s right, 6 courses, all paired with beer, tip included!

The menu included

  1. strawberries and asparagus basil, spring onion, champagne vinaigrette, goat cheese, saba paired with solera-style lambic. Brewer Ben explained meant that this beer was made using the solera process in which 3 beers were used in succession in the barrel with a little purposely left as the new beer was added, so this beer is the culmination of the flavors from all three (Sour Double Wit, Soursop Wheat, and Sourdough Ale plus Brettanomyces lambicus to make it a lambicdespite all the”sour” in the beer names, it only has a slight sourness to it). Pairing wise, he also noted that the same sort of acid found in this beer was echoed in the goat cheese of this salad.
  2. pastrami pork belly éclair spring onion, pickled chile cream cheese icing paired with newport summer ale although for the vegetarian, the pairing was mixed summer greens with cucumber, snap peas, and feta. Of all the items in the menu, this was one I highly anticipated, and I loved the taste of the pork belly eclair with the chili cream cheese (although I thought the amount of icing was a bit overwhelming for the beer, though it was tasty), a melding of the tang of the cream cheese with the softness of the eclair and the meaty with bit of fat of the meat inside. At the same time, I thought the nice fresh taste of the radishes and greens was quite complimentary with the ale too, perhaps even a better pairing… though I would not give up that pork belly eclair.
  3. lamb carpaccio guajillo oil, grilled scallions, crispy chickpeas, cumin yogurt paired with session brown which for the vegetarian was a grilled asparagus and farro salad with scallions and lemon that used a slight grilled smoke taste from the asparagus to go with the malt forwardness of this beer- in this case both pairings of food dishes was excellent but the lamb was better, particularly with those awesome light as air crispy chickpeas and guajillo oil
  4. crispy chicken confit wild mushroom and fava bean panzanella paired with old woody while the vegetarian had panzanella with wild mushroom and fava beans. Both these dishes were fabulously full of crispness and complex savory flavor to hold up with this collaboration beer that has a touch of sweetness from molasses. Panzanella, a stale bread dish, never sounded that interesting to me but now I know that crunch from the bread balanced with flavors of oil and vinegar and mushrooms sounds simple but delivers more than what you would think from the sum of those parts

  5. pan seared rib eye filet fava purée, grilled porcini, pale ale glace paired with old bourbon woody while the vegetarian pairing was russet potato gnocchi with morel mushrooms, fava beans, and creme fraiche. I’m certain this is the beer that started really working out my liver (just looked it up as it’s currently at Breakside Brewery on their board listed at 11%) but the complexity of flavor that every sip of liquid offered is well worth it, this is one fine beer. Ben also mentioned this beer’s other alias, Old Whiskey Dick.
  6. colston-basset stilton honey, candied walnuts, brooks cherries paired with bourbon barrel aged 1st anniversary wheatwine This was the only beer I didn’t love (though I still like it) because I thought it had too much alcohol upfront (it does clockin at 12.7%) and I would have liked to have it sit a little longer to mellow out, but F thought the beer was perfect as it was/is.

All the food and beer pairings were really wonderful through all six courses without anything being a disappointment and in fact, even impressing us more than we expected. Overall it was an amazing experience as everyone around us was a beer and food lover, but we got to enjoy this in a relaxed but refined atmosphere.

Wildwood also has a great bar with seasonal summer concoctions I enjoyed while waiting between the end of work and beginning of this brewer’s dinner. One of their summer drinks is the The Naughty Kitty with pimm’s, india lemongrass, lime and strawberry puree, a sweet but not too sweet drink that definitely took me away from my worries quickly and smoothly. I also appreciated a little gift from the kitchen of pate with a little dop of mustard and bit of cornichon all vehicled into the mouth by a little toast… as if I wasn’t already grateful enough that the Chef was willing to put together a vegetarian version of the six courses at my request. Enboldened by this bite, I decided I still had enough time to try one more cocktail that caught my eye- Oh Snap! Tanqueray, cointreau, mint tincture, lemon, and sugar snap peas puree, a fresh cocktail. As always, I have never been disappointed by Wildwood in presenting me with local and seasonal flavors that really embody the Northwest region.

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