Feast Dinner Recap of State of the Art

This is my Feast Dinner recap of the only dinner (and my first Feast Portland dinner) I attended for Feast 2014. Like all of the Feast events, the net proceeds of the dinner went towards ending childhood hunger in Oregon through Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon and Share Our Strength.

This dinner, officially named State of the Art with Adelsheim Vineyards and Willamette Valley Vineyards, was part of the KitchenCru series. It was held al fresco under a white tent with twinkling lights in the parking lot of the KitchenCru Culinary Prep space on Northwest Broadway and Flanders. The description promised “Local boy Justin Woodward (Castagna, Portland) will be joined by Dominique Crenn (Atelier Crenn, San Francisco), Homaro Cantu (Moto, Chicago), Matt Accarrino (SPQR, San Francisco) and pastry chef Matt Tinder (The Restaurant at Meadowood, Napa Valley) in this culinary super jam.”

There were essentially 5 courses, with each of the various chefs contributing at different points. All 5 chefs kicked us off with the appetizer portion, followed by Dominique Crenn with first course, Matthrew Accarrino and Homaru Canto with second course, Justin Woodward bringing up third and Matthew Tinder bringing it home with the sweet course. Meanwhile, each of these 5 courses was paired with both a Willamette Valley Vineyards wine and a Adelsheim Vineyards wine, so that’s 10 wine pours.

Here are the two winemakers from Adelsheim and Willamette Valley, and our Bon Apetit acting host. I’m sorry the photos are when you were talking so your mouths are open, but maybe if you guys wouldn’t move so much when talking… 😛 Pro tip: if you are speaking at an event, pause a few times because you know someone is taking a photo of you and don’t move and make your best looking face! Or maybe one day I will win a really nice camera instead of my smartphone or little point and shoot.

First

The pairing for this course included Willamette Valley Vineyards 2012 Gruner Veltliner and Adelsheim Vineyards 2013 Pinot Blanc. I loved how the crisp acidity, particularly of the Gruner Veltliner, helped brighten and refresh between each snack.

• Ceviche, Justin Woodward
  I was happy to see all the food lovers around me did the same as I and drank the liquid afterward.
  
• Aged Cheddar Budino di Pane, Pear Mustard, Quail, Celery, Matthew Accarino
  This was my favorite of the appetizers, but I’m a cheese addict.
  
• Beet Chip with Beef Tartare, Justin Woodward
  A classic offering of one of the snacks at Castagna
  
• Buttermilk Custard with Truffle served in an Egg, Homaru Cantu
  How can you not be wowed how beautiful this was!
  
• Sea Urchin and Licorice by Dominique Crenn
  

Second

The pairing for this course included Willamette Valley Vineyards Elton Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 and Adelsheim Vineyards Caitlin’s Reserve 2012 Chardonnay. I don’t usually think to pick up and drink a Chardonnay, and these two wines reminded me I am being stupid to not drink it more often. I often turn to red wines, but I am so missing out by doing so. Lesson learned- I am going to definitely be seeking out these two Chardonnays in the future.

“BBQ” Parsnip, by Dominique Crenn

This was probably the only dish I didn’t really enjoy, though all of us having to pick it up (because there is no way to cut it) and getting white powder on your fingers and face all together and having to gnaw at this because it was extremely tough and chewy is a definite ice breaker from the more haute presentations in the appetizer course. I appreciate the risk taking.

Oyster, Coconut and Wheatgrass, by Dominique Crenn
Why is it blue? She only mysteriously said “why is the sky blue”. The left is from my phone and right from my camera, but let me tell you, it was bluuuee… This is one of the things I love about modernist cuisine. I love hole in the wall joints and street food and comfort food and bar food also, but the heightened art of making art with your food and making all the other senses part of the experience is something I really think is fun. Of course it’s not your everyday food, but I enjoy the challenge of exploring food in a new way like this once in a while. Also, humor in food is fun- and this dish is definitely representing that creative whimsy!

Third

The pairings were Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate 2012 Pinot Noir and the Adelsheim Elizabeth’s Reserve 2011 Pinot Noir.

Pork Shank Terrine, Ear, Persimmon and Wild Rice, by Matthew Accarrino

I’m so glad that all of us food lovers were not embarassed at this pricey dinner to all be picking up and gnawing at that bone all together at our table. There was some real bonding in that moment.

Corn Pudding, Beef Tongue and Cheek, Burgandy Truffle, by Matthew Accarrino
Sooooo loved this dish. I loved the color it presented, as opposed to what would soon be a parade of earth toned plates.

I have visited both Moto and Otom in Chicago before, so I had witnessed before some of the exquisite plating from Homaro Cantu’s kitchen. As you recall, he had brought us that custard and truffle in an egg, and here he continues his earthy nature look with these two courses. Although you can see Homaro Cantu was in the house, he sent charming Richie Farina to talk to us. Richie is the Executive Chef at Moto and briefly appeared on a few episodes of Top Chef

Fallen Log, by Homaro Cantu

Even though I know it’s not really a log, doesn’t it perfectly look like what you would expect to see while hiking? I can totally see a character from Beatrix Potter scurrying by.

Sus Scrofa, by Homaro Cantu

From what I remember, this has wild boar, dried mole, puffed rice and blueberry skin. It was really fun texturally to eat!

Fourth

The pairings here were Willamette Valley Vineyards Bernau Block 2012 Pinot Noir and Adelsheim Vintage 32 2009 Pinot Noir.

Rye Bread and butter, by Matthew Tinder
I was caught by someone’s Instagram inside as this was being prepared on a little WC run…

How is this the only photo of me that evening, I always forget to take photos of myself.

But, I did not forget the bread and butter! I told myself I wasn’t going to waste precious stomach room with much bread and usually all I need are some generous smears of butter, but damn if I didn’t eat that whole slice and would have had a second.

Duck Boudin Blanc with Matsutakes, by Justin Woodward

Doesn’t the plating of this dish remind you a little of those dancing mushrooms in Fantasia by Disney?
 

Fifth

The sweet wines here included Willamette Valley Vineyards Sweet Hannah 20, which pretty much everyone at my table really enjoyed, and the Adelsheim Deglace 2012 which was much sweeter and might have paired better with perhaps a different dessert.

Haogen Melon, Padron Pepper, Vanilla Bean, by Matthew Tinder

This was my favorite of the two desserts, just gorgeous.

Huckleberry Panettone, by Matthew Tinder

In retrospect I should have had this dish with some coffee. But I knew I was heading to an after party next so…

So that was dinner!

Overall, what were my impressions of the dinner? I still think the best value for your money and experience are the Oregon Grand Bounty Tasting (which yields 5 hours of buffet snacking) or the laid back fun of the Sandwich Invitational. I admit I have not yet attended the Night Market, which is always one of the first to sell out (I was torn but this dinner was the same evening as the Night Market, and I ultimately picked the dinner experience). So I can’t speak to that, though it always seems people have a really good time at that event. And as you’ll soon see, I adored the Brunch Village, which hopefully Feast will bring back as one of the Main Events next year.

Between High Comfort or one of the Dinner Series, I would recommend the Dinner Series. Most of the dinners and the High Comfort event are priced similarly. However, unlike at High Comfort where you are dressed up and standing in line for sampling of high class food, at the dinner you can enjoy a seated dinner that is served to you.

As you can see from the number of plates I had, I probably had just as many samples of different foods as someone attending High Comfort with their 19 chefs since I had 15 tastes at my dinner. The big trade-off is the variety of chefs you can get to experience, but 5 is already I think a diverse number of perspectives. The other thing you know you will get with a dinner is a more crafted experience in terms of the progression of your meal, versus various random samples you might get at a sampling event.

It was a long dinner though- from 7pm-11pm! Of my recap, what dish peaked your interest? What do you think of modernist cuisine?

For another perspective, Michael Russell of the Oregonian highlighted his pick of the Eight Beguiling dishes here.

This is my third recap of my adventures at Feast: my first was for the Oregon Grand Bounty Tasting on Friday and Saturday and my second was for the Sandwich Invitational. My next recap will be for the Tillamook Brunch Village!

Disclosure: I was granted a Blogger Pass for Feast Portland 2014 for blog post and social media coverage but I am not otherwise being compensated. For this event, I purchased my own ticket to the event! I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.