Japan Travel – Winter Illuminations

February 2, 2016 by 13 Comments

My trip to Japan occurred during Christmas and New Year’s. For the Japanese, Christmas is not seen as a religious holiday, which makes sense since they don’t share the Christian religion, with Shinto and Buddhism dominating as the national religions instead. But, they have carried over one major thing – the idea of lots of sparkling holiday lights which they call Winter Illuminations.

In the Western world not all those that celebrate Christmas are religious either of course. Nowadays Christmas often leans more towards being a cultural holiday involving family gathering together. It’s also a consumerist holiday involving a lot of shopping and holiday sales in the name of gift giving and holiday parties.

But the Japanese don’t really celebrate Christmas in either of those ways either, with the only 2 exceptions being the pushing of Kentucky Fried Chicken as a Christmas meal, and the promotion of Christmas Cake. You can reserve your KFC meal ahead of time, and there are lines! I was somehow charmed by Colonel Sanders Santa every time I saw him though.
Kentucky Fried Chicken heavily markets its fried chicken as a Christmas meal - so much that you can pre-order family meals, and there are lines for Christmas! Colonel Sanders Santa! Kentucky Fried Chicken heavily markets its fried chicken as a Christmas meal - so much that you can pre-order family meals, and there are lines for Christmas!

For the Japanese, instead it’s New Year’s that is the time for gathering with families – many people close down their shops or leave work for extended holidays to return to their hometowns. Similarly, it’s the rationale of New Year’s for their end of year holiday parties, and big New Year’s sale with heavily discounted grab bags.

As for presents, I won’t try to touch the explanation for gift giving in Japanese culture that has a whole etiquette involved in terms of presentation, social obligation, reciprocation, and the many many reasons and occasions that call for gift giving, including coming back from a trip or as thanks (or even as a thank you for a thank you…). For Christmas, only children who believe in Santa might receive gifts – Santa doesn’t give gifts to non-believers, which apparently includes all adults.
Christmas Cake and more in Japan Christmas Cake and more in Japan
At least everyone gets to eat Christmas Cake, adults and kids

Instead, Christmas Eve and Day are regular work days. Some who might celebrate Christmas view it more as a romantic holiday where a couple goes out to celebrate on Christmas Eve. This explains why when I saw Christmas decorations, hearts sometimes showed up as a motif, and there were mostly couples not families who were out for Christmas.
Heart on Tokyo Tower as part of its Winter Fantasy ~ Orange Illumination from November 23 2015 to February 29 2016
Heart on Tokyo Tower as part of its Winter Fantasy ~ Orange Illumination from November 23 2015 to February 29 2016

The holiday lights are the most noticeable way that the Japanese celebrate Christmas. Most of the holiday lights I saw were in large public areas, often by a lot of stores, often in a park area and/or down entire streets. Though I don’t know if I can really call them Christmas lights, since some of those major light installations go up in early November. Although some of the lights might go down on December 25, others light installations might stay until even mid or end of February!

Christmas Trees are conceptual rather than any real evergreens or full of lots of ornaments.
Winter Illumination of a tree and penguin friends by Shinjuku Terrace City, a version of Christmas lights Winter Illumination of a tree with light projections by Shinjuku Terrace City, a version of Christmas lights

Overall, there are several places that offer holiday lights where I often saw a lot of couples walking and enjoying it hand in hand (and of course snapping photos). During my trip, we made it to 3 Winter Illumination displays.

Shinjuku Terrace City Illumination

Shinjuku Terrace City is sort of an outdoor shopping space that has a small park between the stores. Within this park, they light up 300 globes and 235,000 LED bulbs on the trees.
Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City

These lights are up from mid November to mid February. So even if you are visiting not in the Christmas holiday time, you might be able to catch them!
Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City

It also included a “Christmas Tree” which is really more like a sculpture in the shape of a tree. The Penguin tree you saw earlier in this post was from this area. Also, there was another tree at the end of the park. Interestingly enough, it was all white and more of a tree shaped sculpture. It was illuminated with a projector that offered different patterns based on people putting hands on pedestal placed a bit in front of it. Each pattern was animated and used different colors, lasting for 30 seconds or so.
One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations

You can see there were apparently six different possible patterns on the sign to the left. To the right you can see a globe like pedestal with outlines of two hands that people would place their hands on to start a new projection/illumination on the tree.
One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations

Roppongi Hills

Roppongi Hills area has a “Christmas Tree” along with lights within a shopping center, and also all down the street of Keyakizaka. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs that switch from a “Snow and Blue” theme to “Candle and Red”. These lights were up from the beginning of November until Christmas Day, so given when you see Christmas stuff show up in stores here in the US, I could justify calling these holiday lights.

I liked the extra sparkle of the tree.
Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme The winter illuminations at Roppongi Hills - this holiday tree changes color. This is a fashionable area (a bit like Michigan Avenue) and we noticed a lot more women making up the population then usual

In the park area, the darker shady areas with the trees around the pond and which was quieter than the shopping area with the stores made for a romantic walk as couples held hands.
They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does- it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does- it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does - it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights

Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street is a fashionable area (reminds me a bit like Michigan Avenue) and we noticed a lot more women making up the population then usual who were dressed really well. The blue and white lights along the classy street were on every single tree. We were on our way to Midtown so didn’t linger long enough to see the change to the Candle and Red theme.
Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills. along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red. And you can see the hearts here reflecting how Christmas is more a romantic holiday than the US

Midtown Christmas

Similarly, the Midtown Christmas, by the Galleria shopping center, has its display from mid November to December 25 also count as holiday lights to me. You can easily walk between Roppongi Hills to Midtown in order to see both these Winter Illuminations. The ones at Midtown include 180,003 lights and a “starry sky illumination” theme that include lights that appear to be shooting stars or falling stars, all set to music in a park in the back that they call a “Starlight Garden”.

It’s very organized even though it’s extremely popular – there is only one way to enter the park and then you walk counter clockwise, with cones and security there to maintain order. Here’s a look at the Starlight Garden from a balcony to get an idea of the size!
A look back as we walk towards the street of the size of the Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 to get a look of the size of the Starlight Garden A look back as we walk towards the street of the size of the Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 to get a look of the size of the Starlight Garden

The lights – the way they slowly turn on just the blue at the time, and then adding more, the way they move with the music slowly downward while twinkling, upward like shooting into the sky, or fast horizontally on a circular track like a shooting star… it was breathtaking.
The beautiful Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 with 180,003 lights and a starry sky illumination technology light show set to music for its Starlight Garden alt=
The beautiful Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 with 180,003 lights and a starry sky illumination technology light show set to music – in the background from this view you can see Tokyo Tower and its updated lighting that changes over time during the evening

These photos just don’t do it justice. So here’s a video we took, though that still doesn’t do justice to how it looked in person.

This is where I found a listing of the Winter Illuminations:

What do you think of how the Japanese celebrate Christmas? Is there anything you’d miss, or something you like about their view on Christmas? Have you been in a foreign country during Christmas before and how did they celebrate it that was different?

If you’re one of my Portland readers, and do you know there is a FREE Winter Light Festival for us too? Check out the family friendly Portland Winter Light Festival coming February 3-6, 2016 along the East Bank Esplanade and by OMSI.

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight: Kachka

January 29, 2016 by 6 Comments

For Foodie Friday today, I continue my series highlighting a Portland Drink and a Bite of food that I think not only is best in class within Portland, but is a classic representation of the character of Portland. Of course, that Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight is also delicious, and unique.

When it’s chilly outside, nothing soothes and warms me more than the buttery soft comfort of Kachka and their dumplings. You could select to enjoy the meat one of the Siberian Pelmeni with Beef, Pork, Veal and Onion or the vegetarian version of Tvorog Vareniki with Farmers Cheese and Scallion. Do not miss this, it is a must order and my Portland Bite highlight. I get this every time I visit Kachka.
At Kachka PDX do not miss these Russian Dumplings of siberian pelmeni with beef, pork, veal and onion and also on the happy hour menu! Kachka's tvorog vareniki, a dish of scallion and farmer’s cheese filled dumplings that are just melt in your mouth, and also on the happy hour menu!

As for a drink, you should get a little vodka. Flavor Infused Vodka especially. You can order it at the sizes of 30, 60, or 100 grams, so it’s possible to get a taste of that Russian tradition of drinking and eating without going overboard. After all, a 30 gram serving is only an ounce.

The vodkas infused with flavors vary from chamomile vodka, horseradish vodka, earl grey, cocoa nib vodka and a few others which seem to consistently be on the menu. And there’s then additional other flavors that rotate seasonally, varying from strawberry, lemon to charred rosemary, matsutake mushroom and more. My personal favorite is the horseradish vodka, which I will usually get with a flavored sweet infused vodka flavor too and a seasonal one. I’m pretty excited that they are going to starting March 2016 be offering bottles of their horseradish vodka for sale so I can get my vodka fix on at home!

Vodka, 30 grams from Kachka Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia

For a cocktail with a flavored vodka, you could also consider their tart and refreshing Baba Yaga, which features their chamomile vodka, liquore strega, and lemon.

Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon

If you’d like, you can also get (in addition to the dumplings of course) the much raved about “Herring Under a Fur Coat” cold zakuski. This dish is beautiful, and it seems to be the glamour shot that represents Kachka.
The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs. The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs.

You just remember that you can’t go wrong with any of the zakuski, whether cold or hot. You can’t go wrong.

The reason that I love Kachka, besides the incredible food, and the nice service, is that it’s so very Portland that a restaurant like this can be so successful and loved by foodies. Despite visiting many cities that are considered “Best Food Cities”, it’s only someplace like Portland where food lovers are willing support the unknown just as long as it’s good. Who knew Russian food can be such a hot commodity that it was named 2014 Restaurant of the Year by Willamette Week, and 2015 Rising Star Restaurant of the Year by the Oregonian. Co-owners Bonnie Morales and Chris Israel took a risk that I’m not sure would have paid off in most other cities.

The fact that Portland loves food, and that we embrace all kinds of good food even and especially the unfamiliar, makes me proud to be a Portland citizen. I love how Kachka highlights Soviet era food that just a few decades ago, embarrassed the immigrant kids and was hidden. No, Kachka does more than highlights – it really embraces it and successfully makes everyone embrace it too.

Have you been to Kachka? What is your favorite dish or drink if you have?

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Portland Xurros at 180

January 28, 2016 by 7 Comments

Tomorrow, Friday January 29, Portland will have a new dessert sensation beyond the cupcakes, macaroons, experimental ice creams and mini-donuts we’ve already been loving. Welcome the Spanish churros, or using the Catalan spelling of xurros, at the new 180, opening tomorrow. Plus, they are offering for their Grand Open free xurros from 8 AM – 4 PM while supplies last!

I was invited to a sneak peek yesterday at this newest venture, a partnership with Chefs Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin who have teamed together to bring their memories from Spain to us in Portland. I’m crushing on the new best in Portland xurros and Chocolate hard. Step into 180 and Xurroland at 2218 NE Broadway…
Step into 180 and Xurroland by Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin, Portland's new xurreria

First of all, these are not the churros you have had at the fair, amusement park, or from a cart. There are many styles of churros, including versions in Latin American and Mexico, but this one comes from Barcelona, the capital city of Catalonia region of Spain. I can see why they call these xurros instead (yes, the x is still pronounced ch) to help differentiate them.

At Portland’s first authentic xurreria, 180 uses an impressive stainless steel xurro and fritters making machine from Spain. Jose and David traveled last year to Spain conducting xurro research, including pointers and tips from the founder of the xurro machine company that’s only been making xurros since oh, 1958. So some experience and expertise it seems. The dough is fried at 180 degrees C, thus the name for this xurreria.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring

At the sneak peek, Jose Chesa still looked mesmerized by its magic as he stirred the xurro dough into the fried addictive snacks that were disappearing so quickly. I think part of it may be the wonder of being able to successfully recreate the food memory he’s trying to pass on to us in Portland.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on
Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on at the magic xurro machine

The finished bites are much lighter than what you probably have experienced in your churro history. These new Portland xurros are crispy but not hard, airy and not oily – they reminded me of the perfect extra crispy french fries that I seek out, but sweet thanks to a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar that doesn’t go overboard into sticky sweet. The dusting of the Xurro isn’t as strong in cinnamon as the common churros. Note: the xurros that will be served here are normally shaped like a ring, but they were broken into sample size of mini tube shapes at the sneak peak. You won’t be able to just eat one. Good thing the xurros come in 3 ($3.75), 6 ($5.75), or 12 ($10.75).
Portland Xurros from 180, usually served in a ring but in little tubes for dipping for our sneak peak. Perfectly crispy, not oily, dusted with just the right amount of cinnamon and sugar.

The plus of the tube shape is that they are perfect for dipping. You can dip them in one (or all) of the housemade dipping sauces they offer for your Portland xurros: 2 ounces for $2 of either lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl. You can also additionally order xocolata, which you can both dip your xurro in and sip as a drinking chocolate from Cocanu at 4 ounces for $4. The children’s faces with a little chocolate smear from the xocolata is pretty damn adorable.
Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Xocolata, Chocolate at 180 that you can dip your xurro, or just sip as drinking chocolate

Or for full chocolate coverage on every single millimeter of the Xurro, get them dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you at $1.75 each as Xurros Banados.
At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados

Also available here are Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with your choice of Creme Catalana (a burnt custard cream similar to Creme Brulee), Dulce de Leche (shown below that tastes like an upgraded creme caramel), or Xoco Cream (a chocolate cream) at $3 for 2 pieces. Holy moly.
180's Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with Creme Catalana, Dulce de Leche, or Xoco Cream at 180 PDX. This is with Dulce Leche

And like an upgrade on a stuffed croissant enters the Xuixo, a pastry that is stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Who needs a cronut when you can have this $6 delicacy? Only a limited quantity is made each day.
Christina Baez, one of the partners of 180, modeling a Xuxo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar Xuixos from 180 PDX. Xuxo is a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 PDX Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Available at 180 PDX

Yes, it’s a bit messy and sticks to your fingers and flaky. But look at those luscious layers inside these sliced up xuixos that we sampled…
Jose Chesa passing out Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 A closer look at the layers inside the Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar- offered at 180

If you are looking for a little roasty slight bitterness to balance out the sweet here and also need a caffeine hit – especially if you can call this breakfast to start your day like they do in Barcelona – there is coffee here as well. Local Roasting Company provides the beans for Solo / Americano, Cortado, Bombon, Cappuccino, and Con Leche. All drinks are available iced, and you can also get housemade soy milk or housemade hazelnut milk.

What do you think of the xurreria, are the Portland xurros calling your name? What do you want to go with your Xurro?

Disclosure: I attended a media preview that provided samples and was complimentary, but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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Japan Travel: Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines

January 26, 2016 by 5 Comments

I wanted to highlight some of the mysterious snacks and treats you may see when you are looking at food stalls nearby a temple or shrine. You won’t necessarily find all of these at a particular temple or shrine, but usually you will find some. This is not a full list- just my personal favorite Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines.

The big motherlode is at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, an area in Tokyo, because it boasts Nakamise Dori Shopping Street that almost everyone passes through from Kaminarimon Gate to Hozomon Gate to get to the actual main hall and other buildings. Another great area to look is in Kyoto, in the Higashiyama shopping street between Yasaka Shrine or Kodaji Temple and Kiyomizudera Temple,  also called Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

Dango

Dango is a doughy ball served on skewers. In most cases, the dango are each chewy like mochi usually brushed with a sweet sauce. They are usually slightly smaller than the size of a ping pong ball. There are multiple dango balls on a skewer. In some cases the dango are all the same, but there are also multi-colored pink white and green ball that may appear all on a stick too. I’ve also had a black one which was made with black sesame, a Mount Takao specialty.
Black Sesame Dango, a Mount Takao specialty

In most cases the dango are also warmed slightly by a charcoal fire or grill so that parts of it are crisped up a little but on the outside on one side. It may be a modest fire like these
Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand

Or in the evening a little bit more dramatic with the flames.
Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street

They are usually plain when they are skewered by the fire, and then when you order a skewer, get the sauce brushed on and may get a quick extra warmed up closer to the heat for a few moments to glaze it slightly.
Brushing the sauce on dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are usually serve skewered at a Mount Takao stand

They are usually very chewy and have a napkin to wipe your face since the sauce may got on it!
Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand

There is one exception to this, which I have found on Nakamise at Sensoji. You’ll recognize this famous stand by the pink and bunny theme. Even though this is an exception, I always top and get it. Here, the dango are much smaller, more the size of marbles. This is Kibi-dango, a variation of dango made with millet flour. From this same stand you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is very sweet and low alcohol. Here, I caught a few photos of the ladies rolling the kibi dango in the flour. Afterwards, since the flour is still a bit loose they serve the dango in a pink envelope with the white bunny logo on it. I highly recommend with Kibi dango to have it with a beverage as the flour coating instead of a sauce makes it more dry.
Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

Ningyo Yaki

Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.
ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes! ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes!

If you are lucky, you will see it being made fresh, either with an iron mold pan by hand, or by an automated machine!

By hand with a mold pan (at Sensoji Temple) – the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! You can see all the molds he is working with on the right as they are cooking to the right.:
Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast!

Automated (at Himeji Castle):

At this particular machine (I won’t tell you how long I stood at the window, just fascinated each time I come across these…) there are two brushes on the right side of the machine that brush the inside of the molds – each mold’s side gets brushed. Then as it turns counterclockwise, the molds get dough squirted into it, then the sweet bean pellet is added. I couldn’t see all the way around so I’m not sure if then there is a second squirt of dough to cover the sweet bean before the mold is closed.
Automated Ningyo Yaki Machine. On the right side, you can see two pipes that brush the inside of the mold, and then the machine will squeeze the dough into the molds, On the other side the bean is then added, and more dough on top then the molds continue to circle, cooking it on one side until it is flipped by that lever you see on the right to cook on the other side! It ticks more counterclockwise until it gets to the lever on the right which will open and dump out the ningyo yaki

What I do know is then it clicks forward counterclockwise until the mold reaches a lever on the left side, around the 8 o’clock mark. Then, the lever flips the mold over to cook on the other side until around the 3 o’clock mark in the machine, a lever opens the mold and then a claw retrieves the hot now fully cooked cake.
In this ningyo yaki machine, it automatically does the entire process in an automated fashion. The crane carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Then, the claw drops it perfectly each time into a new smaller machine that times the cooling of the cake and then slides it into plastic to be individually wrapped.
Automated ningyo yaki machine. The crane on the right side carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Since these photos were taken by Himeji (a famous Japanese castle), no surprise that the ningyo yaki looks like a mini castle! When we purchased this, the man ran around the machine to give us a fresh, still warm one.
Himeji Castle shaped Ningyo Yaki - Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

Manju

Manju is a batter (usually flour, rice powder and buckwheat) stuffed with some sort of filling (usually sweet red bean paste of boiled azuki beans and sugar). At Nakamise Dori, I was surprised to find more creative fillings, such as cherry, custard, pumpkin, sweet potato, green tea and more. Below, I got a Sesame Manju.
Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of an red bean paste, made from boiled azuki beans and sugar. This stand at Nakamise Dori has many creative fillings beyond just sweet red bean Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of red bean paste made from boiled azuki beans and sugar.

Nikuman

Nikuman is a smaller version of Chinese buns. They are steamed, and may be filled with meat or other fillings. They are served quite hot, often right out of the steamer, so definitely be carefully biting into it – the floury doughy soft bun may seem warm, but the inside can be piping hot.
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one

You will probably recognize it by the wooden steamer trays stacked on top of each other
Nikuman - steamed bun filled with meat and/or other ingedients. This beefy one was juicy by Himeji Castle Nikuman

For instance, I found these in the Higashiyama District – we stopped for these buns because there is a beef and burdock one and also a bean and green tea vegetarian one!
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one

Menchi Katsu

Menchi Katsu is a breaded and deep fried cutlet or croquette, usually meat but it could be another protein (in Kyoto we had the vegetarian options of potato or tofu skin).

This meat one below shown from near Sensoji Temple at the stand Asakusa Menchi (you will probably recognize it first by the line) is the best version I’ve ever had, famous for being particularly juicy / greasy depending on your point of view and they use a rare breed pork called Kouza-buta (Kouza pork) from Kanagawa.
In line for famous Asamen's Menchi Katsu, a breaded and depe fried cutlet or croquette Very juicy and flavorful fried pork thing - apparently Menchi Katsu, a deep fried breaded cutlet - found at Asakusa, near Sensoji Temple

I also found some while walking in Higashiyama shopping street towards Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto- they had filling options of Kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette.
As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette

Senbei

Senbei are Japanese rice crackers. There are a huge variety of senbei out there – some are sweet, salty, spicy, or savory, in all sorts of shapes and sizes and flavors. They are usually baked or grilled over charcoal. The mnst common ones you see are round, and may have a little square piece of seaweed wrapped around it and be shiny from a soy sauce glaze.

What has made senbei probably most famous is that they sell them to feed the deer at Nara. There is even a place where they throw large senbei like frisbee and the nburn down a mountain!?? Japan Talk has a webpage listing some interesting senbei trivia.

I admit I don’t necessarily seek out senbei because it makes me thirsty, and that makes me drink, and then I might have to use a public toilet and who knows if it will be the nice ones with buttons or a squat one (although at least unlike China they provide a nice handle on the wall to keep your balance). But I wanted to highlight an interesting one I found in Kyoto, on Higashiyama just across from the entrance to the Kodaji Temple. It was the aroma and seeing them being made fresh that caught my attention. Fresh senbei is always superior to packaged ones.
Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

This one, according to a helpful English index card in the window, has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg. The craftsman was super cheerful and welcoming even as he kept working the whole time. He uses those bags to pie in dough, but that rectangle in front of him is an oven full of broad beans that are being roasted – you an see some of the beans there on the cloth and paper in front of him. He scoops the beans from the big pot to his left and into drawers of the oven. Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

We sampled all the different kinds and the bag we bought did not make it out of Japan because we ate it all.
Kyoto Senbei made with broad bean

Amazake

Amazake is a sweet warmed sake. It is made out of fermented rice and Koji (a special cultured rice – it’s bringing the important fungus that will break down the carb of the rice to sugars) so the sweetness comes naturally, not from any sugar.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

It is poured from the pot where it is still kept warm.
="Amazake

The texture is almost like an almond milk. There may be a lot or just a little of the rice left in the beverage.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains

It might be made out of white rice, brown rice, or even black sesame (which I found as a specialty at Mount Takao). It is low in alcohol, so even kids drink it. When it’s chilly out, it’s a nice warm drink that is more substantial than just tea.
Black Sesame Amazake at Mount Takao

Which of these treats caught your eye as something you would stop for? Have you had any of these before? Is there a Japanese Temple or Shrine snack I missed?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio

January 25, 2016 by 7 Comments

This recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio is healthy and hearty, offering you lots of fiber and protein while also feeling satisfying. This salad leans much more on lentils than the greens, so if you’d like you could serve this on a bed of more arugula or other greens to make it a whole meal.
Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio

You can serve this warm – I don’t know about you but although I want to eat my greens, with the colder weather I also crave something warm, so this dish offers the best of both worlds.
Vegetarian lentil salad with roasted orange and radicchio, toasted nuts and mint and arugula

My version here was inspired by the recipe from the Vegetarian Times, although my version omits the shallots and increases the amount of lentils, walnuts, and adds in the handful of arugula. The oranges and orange juice add a bit of sweetness as well as acidity, while the toasted walnuts provide the nuttiness and crunchy textures now and then, both which balance out the lentils and arugula.

Ingredients:

  • 4 oranges
  • 1 head of radicchio
    Head of radicchio
  • Olive Oil – you will be using two tablespoons, first to roast and later as part of the dressing
  • 1 1/2 cup French lentils, rinsed
  • 1 1/2 cup orange juice
  • 1 cup toasted walnuts –  I toast them in a pan on the stove with a spritz of cooking spray butter whole, and then break them up later after the toasting
    Toasted Walnuts - I toast them in a pan with a spritz of cooking spray butter whole, and then break them up later after the toasting
  • 2 tablespoons of chopped mint
  • A handful of arugula (about 1 1/2 cups)

Directions:

  1. The most prep work will be for the roasted oranges and radicchio. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cover a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper to prepare to roasted vegetables and fruits. You will need to thinly slice the radicchio into strips that you will be roasting with the oranges – think about the size you would see shredded into a a taco or salad. This should yield 4-6 cups of shredded radicchio.
  2. For the oranges, after peeling them, you want to cut them into sections so they are in wedges (think like chocolate oranges, but with a real orange) but remove the membrane. Squeeze the empty membranes into the same bowl you are placing the orange wedges to collect any extra fresh juice.
    The hardest part is removing the wedges of orange from the membrane for this Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio
  3. You will want to toss the shredded radicchio into your orange bowl, and then add one tablespoon of olive oil and toss all together. Arrange all in a single layer on the baking sheet and let roast for 15 minutes or so in the oven. Stir the radicchio and oranges so it will roast the other side, and roast for another 10 minutes or so until the oranges are caramelized.
    Roast the orange wedges and the radicchio in a single layer on a baking sheet in this Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio Roast the orange wedges and the radicchio in a single layer on a baking sheet in this Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio
  4. While the oranges and radicchio are roasting, boil a pot of the 1 1/12 cup of French lentils in 2 1/4 cups of water mixed with 1 1/2 cups of orange juice. Once it comes to a boil, lower to heat to medium-low and let simmer for 30 minutes or so until the lentils are done.  Drain lentils and place into your serving dish, but keep the cooking liquid.
    Cook the lentils in a water and orange juice liquid for this Recipe for a Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio
  5. In the pot with the remaining lentil cooking liquid to saucepan, and simmer over medium heat if necessary until reduced to 1/4 cup. Pour over lentils.
    The cooked lentil is refreshed with a bit of the reduced cooking liquid (water and orange juice) after being drained after cooking
  6. When the orange and radicchio are finished roasting, add those to your lentils, and add in the last tablespoon of olive oil, the cup of toasted walnuts, 2 tablespoons of fresh mint, and a healthy handful of the arugula. Mix everything together. Depending on how it tastes, you may want to add a touch of sea salt and ground pepper to your liking.
    Mix together the olive oil with the orange juice water lentils, roasted oranges and radicchio, toasted walnuts, and chopped mint

Are you a fan of lentils? What’s your favorite way to enjoy lentils?
The Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio as part of the food spread Vegetarian lentil salad with roasted orange and radicchio, toasted nuts and mint and arugula

As for me, I served this as a side dish during Thanksgiving – they were great mixed in with the cranberry sauce and the mashed potatoes!
The Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio as part of the Thanksgiving day spread, great with the mashed potatoes and cranberry sauces The Vegetarian Lentil Salad with Roasted Oranges and Radicchio as part of the Thanksgiving day spread, great with the mashed potatoes and cranberry sauces

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