A month ago, in mid-November Chef de Cuisine of Revelry, Diane Lam, did a trial run of offering her vision of noodles via a pop-up in the Holdfast. I was impressed at how well prepared she and her crew were to dish up their food even though it was their first time. Everyone was wowed at how powerful the flavors were. Apparently Sunshine Noodles with Diane Lam is going to become a more permanent fixture already – a revamp of Revelry into her vision, renamed Revelry Noodle Bar, is slated for January 2020. You can read the scoop on the news at Eater PDX, but here’s a look at Sunshine Noodles and what we may hope to see at the new concept, or at least shows her what she can do.
The menu for Sunshine Noodles combined intriguing food options like Turmeric Pancake Bites and Potato Chip Salad with classic Cambodian like Kuy Teav Phom Penh and Num Pachok Kreung with the sweet pastel colors and cute round kitties you would find as a mainstay in Asia. Flavor infused shots by David Sigal of Mian like Chile Lime Leaf Tequila, Cocoa Nib Thai Rum, and Wasabi and Salted Honey Vodka, complimented and contrasted with the flavors of the dishes in a simple and effective way.
Turmeric Pancake Bites, stuffed with shrimp and topped with pork floss and passion fruit nuoc maam was an irresistible combination of savory and salty and sweet that melted in your mouth. It looked like a huge PITA to make in a little takoyaki pan and turning to make those slightly crispy on the outside creamy on the inside balls. If they do decide to include this with the Revelry Noodle Bar, my biggest piece of advice is to wait when they are served if they are hot – you don’t want that molten lava inside burning your tongue so you can’t enjoy the other flavors at your meal.
Instead, while you are waiting, if they have it, definitely dig into the Potato Chip Salad tossed with grilled cabbage, wasabi ranch and candied cashews while its nice and crisp. If there are Charred Vegetable Pickles on the menu, they are also a great contrast to give you a palate break between the noodle mouthfuls.
Kuy Teav Phnom Penh, egg noodle soup in a pork and shrimp broth with wontons, shallot oil, and tatsoi is something I hope to see at the upcoming Revelry Noodle Bar. The hearty Kuy Teav is usually a breakfast dish in Cambodia with the key being the broth.
Diane upped how filling it is with the use of egg noodles instead of the vermicelli that I think is a little more typical, and her Phnom Penh version ups the dish with giant wontons and a side of melt in your mouth boneless pork stewed so long the cartilage is as soft as jelly. Here are some close-ups that possibly preview the upcoming stars to appear in January.
I did not get a chance to also eat the Num Pachok Kreung but from talking to other diners and eyeing and smelling the aromatic fish stew it also looked like a winner. The way people got all quiet as their noodles arrived into focused slurping said it all.
I’m definitely excited to see Diane break out to present her own flavors. Revelry has always been strong on the drinks and hip vibe with its DJ, but the must have unique dish was only the Mrs. Yang’s peanut brittle-y Korean fried chicken. I think we’ll find a lot more crave-able food very very soon.
wow, I just read this, thank you for the write up. This is so sweet <3
Thank you for serving up that deliciousness and all you are doing now in the kitchen to help feed those in need. I hope that I’ll have another opportunity to get more noodles in the future from you!