Beer Travel: Visiting Ommegang Brewery

After attending a wedding, F and I drove from the Finger Lakes area to Cooperstown in New  York State. After a morning where we visited the Baseball Hall of Fame, we drove to the other big attraction (well, to us… and it was the one I was certainly more interested in) of Cooperstown, the Ommegang Brewery. The time of year we were visiting Ommegang Brewery was in September, so the foliage was gorgeous on the short 6 mile drive south from Cooperstown.

To park, yes you get to drive through that arch to get to the parking lot.
First seeing the entrance for visiting Ommegang Brewery for a tour, tasting, and late lunch

The entrance to the tasting room/restaurant, as well as the shop and where you can sign up for a tasting, a tour, or both (like we did – both are offered every 30 minutes), is also back there. You can make reservations for Cafe Ommegang for dinner, but it’s first come first serve to get your name on the list for tours and lunch. You must be at least 5 years old to take the tour and 21 years old to participate in a tasting.
Entrance to the Ommegang Visitor's Center, which includes the shop, where you can start tours, and Cafe Ommegang for lunch or dinner dining Entrance to the Ommegang Visitor's Center, which includes the shop, where you can start tours, and Cafe Ommegang for lunch or dinner dining

There were nice details of their iconic lion logo as part of the landscaping, and the doors promoted their enthusiasm for their product proclaiming

“You cannot be a real country unles you have Beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer” – Frank Zappa.

Ommegang Logo as part of the landscaping at Ommegang Brewery in Cooperstown, New York The doors to the Ommegang Brewery Visitor's Center reads You cannot be a real country unles you have Beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer - Frank Zappa.

Another door offered more quotes-

  • “The problem with the world is that everyone is always a few drinks behind” – Humphrey Bogart
  • “When a glass sits on a table here, people don’t wonder if it’s half filled or half empty. They just hope it’s good beer.” – Sherman Alexie
  • “I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy” – Tom Waits
  • “What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch?” – W.C. Fields
  • “He was a wise man who invented beer.” Plato

You may be wondering what a famous brewery like this is doing out in this village of around 2000 people and area of 1.5 square miles, Cooperstown. Well, it turns out that in the 19th century, Cooperstown was the center of the legendary upstate New York hops industry. Almost every farm in the county Cooperstown is located, Otsego County, grew some hops, and the Otsego County hops were considered the best in the America.

Then, early in the 20th century a series of blights – mold, aphids, Prohibition, caused the fall of the region’s hops industry. When Ommegang Brewery built its location in 1997, it did so on what used to be a hop farm, and with a goal of cooperation between farmers and brewers as the area tries to re-explore a revival of the hops industry. On the land of Ommegang Brewery, we were able to even tour some new strains of hops that are being grown here in order to experiment working with Cornell University.

As part of our tour, we also saw beermaking in the works as liquid drained to the floor while steam made it seem magical, and we watched the bottling line – I’ve seen the machines off but never working before this brewery tour.
Water drains into the floor while steam makes the brewing process seem magical at Ommegang Brewery Ommegang Brewery bottling line

Of course the best thing is the tasting portion!
Ommegang Brewery offers tours as well as tastings (separately, but you can buy both) every 30 minutes or 1 hour depending on the season. Ommegang Brewery offers tours as well as tastings (separately, but you can buy both) every 30 minutes depending on the season.

For a $5 fee per person, we tasted 6 beers, and we each got to keep the tasting glass so it’s so well worth it.
For $5 we tasted 6 beers at Ommegang Brewery, and we got to keep the tasting glass so it's so well worth it. For $5 we tasted 6 beers at Ommegang Brewery

The tasting was very educational in that they are prepared to also help you smell individual ingredients to help you learn to appreciate the various kinds of special ingredients they use in the brewing process in creating their beers.
A tasting of 6 beers and also learning to appreciate the various ingredients in beer at Ommegang Brewery A tasting of 6 beers and also learning to appreciate the various ingredients in beer at Ommegang Brewery

Ommegang beer tasting for us included
Tasting beer at Ommegang Brewery included this Hennepin

  • Witte Wheat Ale brewed with Sweet Orange Peel and Coriander
    Ommegang Brewery, tasting of Witte Wheat Ale brewed with Sweet Orange Peel and Coriander
  • Scythe and Sickle, a Bière de Garde style beer that was a Harvest Ale brewed with barley, wheat, oats and rye as a nod to the harvest of upstate New  York grains.
    Ommegang Brewery tasting of Scythe and Sickle, a Bière de Garde style beer that was a Harvest Ale brewed with barley, wheat, oats and rye as a nod to the harvest of upstate New  York grains.
  • Rare Vos Belgian Amber Ale brewed with Sweet Orange Peel, Grains of Paradise, Coriander
    Rare Vos Belgian Amber Ale brewed with Sweet Orange Peel, Grains of Paradise, Coriander
  • Hennepin Farmhouse Saison brewed with Grains of Paradise, Coriander, Ginger, and Sweet Orange Peel. I found it refreshing and bubbly like a sparkling wine!
    Hennepin Farmhouse Saison, Refreshing and bubbly like a sparkling
  • Abbey Ale  Dubbel Ale brewed with Licorice Root, Star Anise, Sweet Orange Peel, Coriander and Cumin
  • Three Philosophers Quadruple Ale with Cherries via blend of Ommegang Quadruple Ale and Liefmans Kriek
    Three Philosophers Quadruple Ale with Cherries via blend of Ommegang Quadruple Ale and Liefmans Kriek

They offered us a couple little snacks as we were tasting including their own Abbey Ale and Rare VO5 beer cheeses, their horseradish mustard, and some Saratoga Garlic wasabi and horseradish aioli with pretzels, among several jars of stuff to share amont the group. The beer cheese is the bomb.
Tasting of Ommegang beers comes with snacks like Abbey Ale and Rare Vos beer cheeses, their horseradish mustard, and some Saratoga Garlic wasabi and horseradish aioli with pretzels, among several jars of stuff to share amont the group! Tasting of Ommegang beers comes with snacks like these beer cheese spreads!

We finished up by having our late lunch at their cafe, if by lunch you mean frites and a flight of Duvel Belgian beers and their Wild At Heart brewed with wild Brett. They change the food and beer menu seasonally, and they are well known for promoting beer and food pairings, even offering beer food recipes on their website.
Beer sampler tray at Ommegang Brewery, this is a flight in their restaurant of Duvel Belgian beers

You can pick up shirts, bottles, and the beer cheese at the store on the way out.
Bottles of Ommegang at the Ommegang Brewery store Grab some beer cheese made with the beers of Ommegang at the Ommegang Brewery store

I’ll be off to Sante Fe next week, which naturally will incorporate more beer travel as we visit some Sante Fe breweries, so you’ll see some more beercation Travel Tuesday posts in a bit. I also have on my queue posts from Denver while I was at the Great American Beer Festival!

Have you had Ommegang beer before? Which of the beers in the tasting sounds most delicious to you?

Have you been to Sante Fe and have any recommendations of sights, eats, or drinks?

Signature

Two Goats Brewery, Horseheads Brewery, Fly Creek Cider Mill

So after talking about Surfing Goat Dairy in Hawaii, I wanted to transition to Two Goats Brewery, Horseheads Brewery, and the Fly Creek Cider Mill and Orchard. These were part of a trip to upstate New York I took at the end of September in order to witness the beautiful wedding of Sarah and Jarrett at the Seneca Springs Resort over looking Seneca Lake.

First of all, what are the chances within a month I would be visiting another place with goat in the name? Two Goats Brewing is in a prime location along the Route 414 which winds along the east side of the Seneca Lake (one of the Finger Lakes, several lakes that are long and narrow facing north-south, and almost looks on a map like finger scratches), on the same road as many wineries for when you want a break from circling the wine country around this lake, sampling wines.

The Two Goats building, a renovated barn, is set back a little bit from the road on a rocky unpaved road so make sure you slow down so you can make the turn. But, you’ll soon see why- the tasting room sits back on the top of a hill overlooking the lake, and they have a big deck in the back where you can enjoy your beers with the view.

View from the back deck of Two Goats Brewing View from the back deck of Two Goats Brewing

Two Goats feels like a dive bar inside- random sized bar art covering all over the walls, darts, the only food are roast beef sandwiches, there are dollar bills all over the ceiling. When we visited they had 6 of their own beers available, including two mixes: one which I tried was called the “Dirty Butt”, which is a mix of their two beers the Dirty Shepard Brown and Cream Ale. I also really enjoyed the Whiskey Richard, has the complexity of whiskey aging from Finger Lakes Distilling barrels (the distillery is just down the street!) but oatmeal stout base still clear in the flavor profile. They also have a nice bottle selection. Everything is very reasonably priced at about $4-6 for draft or $3.5-8 for various 12-16 oz bottles, $12 for 22 oz bottles.

Two Goats Brewing Two Goats Brewing

The sun came out eventually from behind the clouds, and then I was able to enjoy the sunset from their back deck.

View from Two Goats Brewing back deck View from Two Goats Brewing back deck View from Two Goats Brewing back deck View from Two Goats Brewing back deck

While at the bar of Two Goats, the bartenders highly recommended we visit Horseheads Brewing. It was vaguely on the way to Cooperstown, so we decided to make it an after lunch stop. We were really glad we did- it is a very unassuming lil tasting room that is bare bones- just shelves of many kinds of glasses and growlers, a small cooler with some of their bottles, and then a standup bar that fits maybe 6 people where you can go through a tasting of their beers. The tasting fee is $3 or $5, the pours are the same but you get to keep the tasting glass and so the difference in price really correlates with which of the many tasting glasses you want to take with you!

We were able to taste 8 beers, many which were great beers- particularly outstanding was the well balanced Pumpkin Ale (a steal at only $5.99 a bottle), the nicely nutty Newton Brown, the well layered in flavors Lager-Rhythm Dark, and a spicy but not overly so (again, consistent balance) jalapeno beer Hot-Jala-Heim. We were also fortunate enough because a bottle was open by another visitor (who eventually bought a whole case of them!) to taste the dangerously delicious but high ABV Domination barleywine. If you are in the area, take a break from the wine and try this great little bare bones hole in the wall tasting room!

Horseheads Brewing in Horseheads New York Beer sample at Horseheads Brewing, NY - Chemung Canal Towpath Ale Beer sample at Horseheads Brewing, NY - Pale Expedition Ale Domination Ale by Horseheads Brewing. Domination Ale by Horseheads Brewing. Doesn't taste boozy like the 12 percent abv it is!

After reaching Cooperstown by late afternoon, we stopped for about an hour at the Fly Creek Cider Mill and Orchard. What does this have to do with goats, or cheese, or beer? Not much. Well, Fly Creek does have a huge marketplace store which includes at least a hundred different dip mixes (sampling is encouraged), all sorts of james and creamed honey and hot sauces and salsas, cake and bread mixes, apples, fudge, and yes local cheeses (I really liked the Applewood Smoked Sharp Cheddar). It was a lot of fun snacking through, trying so many products of New York state. They also have various fruit wines and hard ciders. Nothing says fall to me as much as fresh apple cider- and the pamphlet even offers you coupon for a free tasting of an apple cider slushie!

Apple Cider Slushie at Fly Creek Cider Mill Apple Cider Slushie at Fly Creek Cider Mill Apple Cider Slushie at Fly Creek Cider Mill

They also had a back area where you could feed geese and ducks. The kid in me was so so thrilled to have them nubbing out of my hand. I was very stubborn about feeding them- I had not a single quarter, but then found a change machine by the barn and tried several different dollar bills (doing the normal trying to straighten and smoothing in between tries), very very determined to get more quarters so we can feed all the ducks and geese along the fence, not just the ones by the deck over the pond. I was also very into even distribution among the fowl. But it was worth it! They had a interesting variety of geese and ducks, including ones I have not seen before.

Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill, like this duck with a fro Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill

I also loved how fluffy these Sebastopols geese were. Apparently they have a curled feather “mutation”, but seriously… I just call it FLUFFY!

Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to geese and ducks at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to fluffy Sebastopols geese at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to fluffy Sebastopols geese at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to fluffy Sebastopols geese at Fly Creek Cider Mill Feeding 25 cents worth of corn kernels to fluffy Sebastopols geese at Fly Creek Cider Mill

Do you like feeding animals and going to the petting zoo… even if you don’t have kids, or if you take your kids you get your own times for petting of animals for the childlike thrill part of yourself?

Signature