Nodoguro November 2022

Nodoguro is blissfully and officially back! As a long time supporter and diner of many Nodoguro dinners, I attended their pop-ups their summer with the Izakaya in the Canaries as I covered previously, and although I did not do a blog post I did put together an Instagram reel of the Nodoguro Lil Nashi brunch pop up also. Both of these events were at a borrowed space, but as reported by the Oregonian, Nodoguro has found a new permanent location. I was fortunate to be able to snag a reservation for myself at a November seating, and here’s a look at the new space and a re-visitation of the Nodoguro 3.0 dining experience. The menu may change quarterly or possibly monthly, depending on what Chef Ryan Roadhouse decides to do. For this visit the theme was Nurturing Your Kokoro.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

The seating is one per night on mostly weekend dates, and limited to just a little more then a dozen people for approximately 2.5 hours of a dinner tasting menu that features snacks and composed courses made from the best of local northwest and Japanese ingredients and Nodoguro preparation that combines creativity and traditional techniques, plus a line up of omakase sushi bites and miso soup, dessert and tea. The space on NE 23rd is a little hidden, you have to walk down a lantern-lit pathway to the restaurant door.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

Upon entering you find yourself at an initial welcome area, and a lounge to socialize with the other dining parties of the evening while possibly enjoying a welcome drink – here a Tamagawa Heart of Oak sake from Kyoto with nutty, toasty characteristics that was really well balanced – I could drink this endlessly and kept sipping it slowly to make it last. You can select from a pairing that included both wines and sakes, or beverages by the glass or a bottle. One of the updates Nodoguro has made that I really enjoyed and I think made it the best pairings from the dinners I’ve had so far is that the selection is all Oregon wines if it is wine, and they endeavored to select wines and sakes that are unique and not ones you can find normally on store shelves or on other restaurant beverage lists.

Doors open 30 minutes before the dinner service, and dinner service is at a shared countertop, though every course is plated and served to you individually. For this theme of Nurturing Your Kokoro, each seating came with an oracle card, and several us read aloud our cards, unique to each setting, to the table. Mine read “Flowers even bloom on grass that has been trampled.(Japanese proverb)”. I would prefer not to be trampled but good to know I will persevered and still blossom.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

Snacks

Umami juice. Vegetables roasted then fermented with soft vinegar, this small starter cleansed the palate and was a bit reminiscent to me of a kombucha. The beverage pairing for the snacks is this crisp Mellen Meyer Brut Nature – Willamette Valley AVA. This Oregon sparkling wine producer was new to me and I’m glad for the introduction
Nodoguro November 2022 - umami juice

Duck, squash, and cranberry. Nodoguro serving up a a little Thanksgiving”, with the squash poached in sake and the beautiful perfect slices of duck. I wish Thanksgiving could really be duck instead of turkey like this. One of my favorite creative courses of the evening.
Nodoguro November 2022 - Duck, squash, and cranberry

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Nodoguro Izakaya in the Canaries

The best popup in Portland is Nodoguro, offering incredible creative kaiseki (Japanese fine dining) that combines the meticulous techniques and artful playing with highlighting seasonal sourcing, hospitality, and thoughtfulness and personal style of whatever is Ryan and Elena Roadhouse’s chosen inspiration theme. The theme of the current dinner series is “Izakaya in the Canaries” from their trip to represent the Pacific Northwest at the Volcanic Food Forum in Lanzarote, Spain. The menu is designed to combine love of Izakaya cuisine, the Spanish Tavern, and some Pacific Northwest volcanic flair.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

I’ve been a customer of Nodoguro for many years – just do a search for Nodoguro to see multiple other recaps of dinners I have experienced. I was heartbroken when they closed their space when the rent ended and because it didn’t make sense as we approached the 2nd year of the Covid-19 pandemic. So imagine my thrill when I saw they would at least for a few months, be taking up the space vacated by Nonna and then Yakuza temporarily, at least until August. Follow them via their newsletters and on social media follow Nodoguro or Gary the Foodie for the news when prepaid reservations are available because they will go fast! Sometimes you may luck out with canceled seats. For me it was via texting to coordinate and buying a spot immediately upon hearing the news to get my late May Friday night seat. It was such a reunion to dine with the Hungry Broads at my table and see the Roadhouses presenting their dinner experience again, but with the added bonus of daughter Sasha also helping.

Also as a long time fan while not trying to be a creeper I was crushing hard watching the daughter dad duo plating the sashimi courses with the same intense focus in their eyes.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

The Setting

Here’s a look at the space they are temporarily occupying on NE Portland.
Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries Nodoguro popup themed Izakaya in the Canaries

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Nodoguro Twin Peaks Dinner 2

I still go to Nodoguro every couple months, but I don’t always post recaps anymore since I know it is difficult to get into some of the dinners if you don’t follow Nodoguro’s mailing list and social media so you know the exact night tickets for the next month get released (most ticket/reservations sell out within 24 hours). One tip is if you are lucky and are able to be flexible, look for Cancellation Tickets from those who purchased that month by checking their website daily – they will put them back up for sale. I’ve written about Nodoguro so many times it almost felt a little unfair to other dining establishments, but I decided to make an exception for this recent theme for July up to August 4 – which is a return to Twin Peaks!
Nodoguro Twin Peaks Dinner 2 Nodoguro Twin Peaks Dinner 2

This Twin Peaks dinner is a revisit to the cult favorite show that made TV Guide’s 50 Greatest Shows of All Time list. Nodoguro previously did a Twin Peaks theme in 2015 which I also recapped. Don’t worry if you haven’t seen the new third season on Showtime yet: neither have I (I don’t have Showtime) and this dinner still seemed more based on the initial two seasons.
Nodoguro Twin Peaks Dinner 2 place settings Nodoguro Twin Peaks Dinner 2 place setting

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Nodoguro Princess Mononoke Sousaku

I’ve written about Nodoguro multiple times, so instead of repeating myself explaining Nodoguro I’m going to just jump straight to the recap of the courses on my visit for the Nodoguro Princess Mononoke Sousaku themed dinner.
Nodoguro Princess Mononoke Sousaku place setting Nodoguro Princess Mononoke Sousaku place setting

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Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara

If you were fortunate enough to snag a ticket online for one of the Nodoguro Sousaku Dinners in July or September you will probably be experiencing this “Trip to Nara” theme. Nara is a prefecture and also the name of the capital city of the prefecture Nara, which is also famous for being the capital of Japan during the 8th century, making it Japan’s oldest capital city, before the capital was moved to Kyoto. It is also famous for its sika deer that roam Nara Park and which many visitors buy senbai (they even have special deer crackers) to feed these deer that were once considered sacred.
Deer flirting for food at the Grand Canyon Deer Farm & Petting Zoo Deer flirting for food at the Grand Canyon Deer Farm & Petting Zoo

Fortunately at the Nodoguro Sousaku dinner there are no deer there harassing you for a bite of any of your 11 tasting courses, although the presence of deer is still in the atmosphere.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

Since my last visit for Supa Hard Core, the official seats they ordered have finally come in! I love how comfortable they are, and don’t miss the purse hooks under the counter ladies!
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

The decor for now has nods to Nara’s wealth of cultural history and the influence of Chinese elements at that time to fit the theme.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

Gold edged paper lanterns offer a look at the additional drinks you can purchase by the glass or as a flight to accompany your dinner. I always get the sake flight. In addition, the lanterns at each setting offer guests an opportunity to write their own haiku.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

After being greeted at the door, guests are directed to the lounge where you can order a drink and relax until dinner service, giving you a chance to also mingle with other guests of assemble your dining party. This includes getting a chance to take a look at the Nodoguro book and also the Questlove’s book on food, Somethingtofoodabout that also features Nodoguro.

Here are the 11 courses I enjoyed – the course may be tweaked slightly to fit what is fresh.

  1. Tomato in Dashi. Tomato is grown and found in Nara. At leat that’s what Elena told Ryan, and Ryan told me… whatever, I am not going to turn down tomato and mozzarella in dashi. The little bit of saltiness and tomato sweetness with creamy Italian mozzarella is all good with me.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tomato in Dashi Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tomato in Dashi
  2. Trout with Shottsuru. Shottsuru is a very funky intense fish sauce though Ryan mellowed it down a bit so it isn’t so pungent so as to overwhelm the dish.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Trout with Shottsuru
  3. Yuan Style Lingcod
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Yuan Style Lingcod Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Yuan Style Lingcod
  4. Peach, Chanterelle, and Walnut. I thought this was one of my favorite dishes with the sweet peach, nutty and earthy mushrooms and walnut, and the creaminess from the tofu you see.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Peach, Chanterelle, and Walnut
  5. Dengaku Eggplant. Another favorite dish for me for the night with the light non-greasy crispness of the flash fried outside and the creaminess of the inside.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Dengaku Eggplant Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Dengaku Eggplant
  6. Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn. The salmon here is marinated in sake and then soaked on cherry wood, and the use of a leaf to wrap the sushi and rice is a way workers in the forest would “wrap” their lunch to go as a bento of sorts and persimmon trees are plentiful in Nara.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn
  7. Duck Sukiyaki. I am always a fan of duck and of a yolk sauce.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Duck Sukiyaki
  8. Summer Vegetable Sunomono, aka pickled dish.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Summer Vegetable Sunomono
  9. Chagayu with Crab and Aburage. Aburage here is the fried tofu, which is cut up and fried crispy almost like vegetarian version of chicharrones. This dish is served with a tea that is poured to make the rice porridge, which is what chagayu means and is a popular healthy and comforting dish specialty in Nara.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage
  10. Tamago
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tamago
  11. Togashi with Medicinal Milk. Don’t let the medicinal milk scare you – it’s just coconut cream, and a nod to how coconut is rare and considered healthy and medicinal (and um delicious!). It’s my second favorite dessert that I’ve ever gotten from Nodoguro dinners because this is so unique.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Togashi with Medicinal Milk Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Togashi with Medicinal Milk

Which of these courses intrigues you? Have you heard of Nara and the Nara deer, or have you fed deer before?

Than you to Ryan, Elena, and everyone as always for the wonderful diner and hospitality!
Elena showing some guests some of the Questlove book that Nodoguro is featured in Ryan slicing up the Tamago Staff of Nodoguro

You can see a listing of all my previous Nodoguro experiences here to see more!

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