Oven & Shaker: a second visit for Aracine and Cauliflower Pizza

I arrived specifically at Oven & Shaker because I wanted the Cauliflower pizza, which had not been on the menu my previous visit. I was really tempted, just like last time, with the Bianca pizza, boasting teleme, truffled sottocenere, bufala mozzarella and fried sage.

Also new to the menu was a pizza of Blackberry and Peach with garlic, arugula, pecorino, rocotta and aged balsalmic. They also had more specials in the Finger * Fork section (the small plates). But, fearing that the Cauliflower, just like the Brussel Sprout pizza, might be a seasonal and therefore temporary offering, I went with that as my pizza choice. I was very glad I did. But damn you Oven and Shaker, with your temptations that will bring me back again…!

Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

I started with the fried risotto balls, or aracine. They came in four different flavors, and not able to decide, I didn’t decide at all and got them all. They are very filling- I would only be able to eat 2 slices of my pizza when it would arrive later, and based on delicious the pizzas are, would rather leave the room for more slices. Ranked in order of
what tasted best of the four Aracine:

Oven and Shaker aracine Oven and Shaker aracine

  1. suppli al telefono, wild mushroom risotto, smoked mozzarella and tomato ragu aracini
  2. lager beer risotto cheddar salami aracini
  3. aracini of basil risotto with house mozzarella  and fresh tomato sauce
  4. herb risotto wtih summer vegetables and  fonduta aracini

Even though it was Friday, the restaurant was not very busy, possibly because there were other summer festivals going on that night as well, though it was also pretty early on a Friday- maybe everyone was at happy hour still (O&S’s happy hour is only until 2:30-4 or 10-midnight). Thanks to the lack of crowd, I was able to really admire how long and incredibly well stocked with bottles the bar was.

Also, not being in the weeds greatly improved how quickly I got my food and how well it was executed, and the staff was able to be more attentive in checking on me, bringing food to me promptly, and removing finished service ware.The atmosphere was much more relaxed and casual, rather than leaning on the frenetic side during my last visit.

Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

While I awaited my meal, I enjoyed a drink that had caught my eye on a previous visit and had remembered, so this visit I didn’t hesitate to reward myself. The Oven and Shaker’s Pepper Smash comes with lots of mint leaves, Krogstad Aquavit (a caraway/anise flavored vodka), lime juice, maple syrup, and freshly extracted yellow bell pepper juice for a very smooth liquid taste of… the description that comes to mind is je ne sais quoi.

It had citrus flavors and a little tartness from the lime but not too sour or acidic thanks to the maple syrup, and then add in that freshness of the bell pepper with the flavors of caraway and anise… it all came into to a unique medley that is refreshing and easy to drink but that you want to sip to have those flavors roll and rest on your tongue.

Oven and Shaker Pepper Smash cocktail, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

Meanwhile, the pizzas are all cooked in the wood fired oven so it is ever so lightly scorched for some burnt smoke flavor: this time when it arrived rather than soggy it was a nice thin crisp yet doughy consistency which I enjoyed.

Oven and Shaker Cauliflower Pizza, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, PortlandOven and Shaker Cauliflower Pizza, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

The ingredients on the pizza of the roasted cauliflower, mozzarella, provolone, olive, spring onion, Mama Lil’s chilies, crumbled salami was a wonderful mix of the crispy salami and the soft creamy cheese with the tangy bits of olive and taste of smoke from the slightly scorched pizza foundation.

I’m coming for you Bianca pizza… I’m coming back for you.

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Oven & Shaker: Portland Dining Month

Next Portland Dining Month 2012 destination: a dinner at Oven & Shaker, the new venture from Cathy Whims of Nostrana fame and success (including being a James Beard Finalist 2012). This new joint is in the Pearl District and focused more on the pizzas and cocktails. For $25, you get to choose a salad, pizza, and scoop of housemade gelato or sorbetto.

We sat at the counter right in front of the pizza oven, and got to see for ourselves the assembly line as they carefully created each pizza and as soon as the food was ready, a runner was called to dispatch it hot to the table.

We started out with the Nostrana salad with radicchio, parmigiano, rosemary-sage croutons, Cæsar style dressing, with the creamyness of the Caeser dressing countering the slight bitterness of the radicchio, and also the Shepherd salad with spring greens, pickled onion, walnut vinaigrette, egg, goat cheese, bruschetta (but without the egg). Both salads were great starters.

Oven and Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizza, Nostrana salad with radicchio, parmigiano, croutons, Caeser style dressingOven and; Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizza, Shepard salad, spring greens, bruschetta

The pizzas, fresh from the wood oven burning pizza: Wild Fennel Sausage – potato, tomato, chilies, scallions, smoked mozzarella and Wild Mushroom – yellow foot and hedgehog mushrooms, fontina, green garlic.

Wild Mushroom pizza with yellow foot and hedgehog mushrooms, fontina, green garlic, Oven and Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizzaWild Fennel Sausage with potato, tomato, chilies, scallions, smoked mozzarella Oven and Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizza

Both also delicious in different ways, the sausage balancing the seasoned sausage with little bites of spicy chili, while the mushroom slight crispness at the top from the oven was a nice textural contrast to the fresh green garlic. We definitely want to go back- as we watched the pizza production we were quite intrigued by the zucchini pizza we saw with chili oil, spring herbs, and finished with willdflower honey and marscapone.

Wild Mushroom pizza with yellow foot and hedgehog mushrooms, fontina, green garlic, Oven and Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizzaWild Fennel Sausage with potato, tomato, chilies, scallions, smoked mozzarella Oven and Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District

We finished with a bay leaf gelato and a strawberry sorbetto, each topped with a waffle cone triangle. My drink, the Pineapple Trainwreck original, was nice as well, a mix of Bacardi Anejo, freshly pressed lemon juice,  in house pressed and extracted pineapple juice, with some house made spicy ginger syrup and dashes of Peychaud Bitters and Angostura Bitters.There were plenty of other impressive, varied selections on the cocktail menu as well which also are calling me back to try them out.

It seems that Oven & Shaker does do justice its namesakes of producing good food from the oven and shaker. They have some regular topping combination pizzas, but others that rotate seasonally, and as we saw from our seats, they do use quality ingredients for their toppings, and put them together in unique new combinations.

The restaurant is loud and feels communal in terms of how close all the seats are, with the space clean with some wood for warmth as universal mingling music plays in the background as you are surrounded by trendsters as the vibe around is definitely outgoing.

The kitchen is churning out those pizzas as fast as they can, and send them to you as soon as they are ready, but in the small space they have, there is only room for about 4 people, and only so many in the oven, so hopefully you are not looking for a fast experience- you are willing to be patient and focus on socializing while waiting (oh, they are “casual” so don’t take reservations, only walk in and be lucky or walk in and get your name on the list), and you are looking for creative unusual combinations atop pizza not the traditional comfort ones full of cheese, and you are forgiving on dough. Of course, they are relatively new to the area, so the hype may die down to make the wait more reasonable, or we came on a very busy night.

They do have some other bites, but I didn’t see many of those going out the kitchen… and while we enjoyed our salad and pizzas, the dessert was nothing special so try another dessert offering. Still, I might try some next time, if there are enough to share pizzas instead like in this visit ordering one individual pizza per person (each pizza is probably enough for two).

Oven and; Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizza Oven and; Shaker, Cathy Whims, Pearl District, Portland, wood fired pizza

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Pizzetta from Decarli, and other pizzas too…

A Happy Hour at Decarli with a pizzetta with prosciutto, taleggio, arugula, shaved grana padano, olive oil. I have never gone wrong with any pizza that had arugula.

DeCarli, Beaverton, happy hour pizza, pizzetta, pizzetta with prosciutto, taleggio, arugula, shaved grana padano, olive oil

As a side note, boy is happy hour at Decarli popular! You have to be there, standing in line, before they open for happy hour at 4:30 or good luck finding a seat. Fortunately the bar service is very fast and friendly, the drinks are good, the food is good… so I can see why the crowd that fills up the bar area right away. Price-wise it’s not as competitive as what you could find downtown… but since we are talking about Beaverton here for the location, but with the atmosphere and offerings like it’s a chic downtown place, not having to go through the logistics of going all the way downtown is worth those extra few dollars if you live or live/work in the area. Actually compared to any other major city, the HH is more than fair price anyway, we’re a bit Portland spoiled.

If you do stop by Decarli’s, I recommend sitting at the bar for the best service and so you can watch the drink making action, and besides the pizzetta I also really like their polenta fries, as I wrote and photographed about in this previous visit. The burger I saw a coworker ate also looked tempting, though I was not as impressed with the panini I had that visit.

In other food porn, I decided to share a few photos of other awesome food memories of pizzas in my past eatings…

  • Tarte Flambee Pear, Bleu Cheese, Walnut, and Garlic Chip (“classic Alsace style pizza”) from Brasserie Jo in Chicago (restaurant closed).
  • A Mano restaurant (since closed) in Chicago’s $5 wood oven pizza of Wild Mushroom & Caramelized Onion, White Truffle Oil, Taleggio Cheese, Hazelnuts and Oregano.
  • Chicago’s Scoozi: the restaurant is famous for their white pizza, the shot is their asparagus with roasted garlic, aged parmesan, and truffle oil pizza.
  • Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder‘s half pounder pizza pot pie… I can’t believe I don’t have any photos of any deep dish pizza from Chicago. Must be corrected next time.
  • And, all the way from Boston, Bertucci’s pizza “Carmine” I was recommended, with Fresh mozzarella balls, Romano cheese and caramelized onions with roasted tomato sauce.

Tarte Flambee Pear, Bleu Cheese, Walnut, and Garlic Chip, Brasserie Jo, Chicago A Mano restaurant, Chicago, Wild Mushroom, Caramelized Onion, White Truffle Oil, Taleggio Cheese, Hazelnuts and OreganoChicago, Scoozi, pizza, white pizza, pizza with asparagus with roasted garlic, aged parmesan, and truffle oil pizza Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder, pizza pie Boston, Bertucci, Carmine pizza, pizza with Fresh mozzarella balls, Romano cheese and caramelized onions with roasted tomato sauce

All in Portland….

  • Pyro Pizza‘s (located in Cartopia)Italian style wood oven fired (but from a food cart!) White Truffle pizza that has white truffle oil brushed on the dough and then is topped with romano cheese and a dash of black pepper. If you go, remember to ask to add as an additional topping basil or sundried tomatoes!
  • And, Nostrana’s Funghi Verde pizza with shiitake mushrooms, house mozzarella, garlic, arugula, pecorino sardo, lemon oil…. served with shears to cut your slices.
  • Gruner appetizer of tarte flambee “bonne anee”- alsatian pizza with sweet onions, maine lobster, smoky bacon, fromage blanc & chives
  • Finally, Deschutes’ Brewery Portland Pub‘s grilled washington pear and goat cheese pizza:Spent Grain Dough topped with Pears, Goat Cheese, Mozzarella and Hazelnuts. Topped with Fresh Arugula tossed in White Balsamic Dressing.

Pyro Pizza, Italian style wood oven fired pizza, food cart, White Truffle pizza that has white truffle oil ,Portland Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Funghi Verde pizza with shiitake mushrooms, house mozzarella, garlic, arugula, pecorino sardo, lemon oil, Portland Gruner appetizer of tarte flambee bonne anee, alsatian pizza with sweet onions, maine lobster, smoky bacon, fromage blanc, Portland Deschutes Brewery Portland Pub, grilled washington pear and goat cheese pizza with Spent Grain Dough topped with Pears, Goat Cheese, Mozzarella and Hazelnuts. Topped with Fresh Arugula tossed in White Balsamic Dressing, Portland

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Gnocchi night at Nostrana

The highlight of this week was a dinner date with my coworker, since both our husbands left us for work travel, and in a fun extra credit I introduced her to my JnJ- she also has a JnJ. We had quite a list to pick from, and after lots of careful menu deliberation I went with Nostrana.

I enjoyed two delightful beverages from their Rooster bar: one was the “Bubbling for Apples” which is carbonated to order in a Perlini shaker and composed of Liquore Strega, Jonagold apple juice, fresh lemon, Laird’s bonded applejack, quince peel syrup, served on the rocks. I started and ended my meal with this fizzy drink. I also tried “Yesterday, today, & amaro” which was less apple forward with its mixture of Flor de Cana extra dry rum, Averna amaro, spiced quince puree, lime, sparkling apple cider, served up in a martini glass. Although this latter drink definitely was better looking, it was hard to compete against the Bubbling for Apples.

Nostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, Italian

For dinner, on Thursday’s Nostrana has Gnocchi Thursday (dinner and for lunch as well), in which they offer three gnocchi treatments of their handmade potato dumplings in the Roman tradition of ‘giovedì gnocchi’. I was torn between the one in lamb & salsify ragu and the other with taleggio, savoy cabbage, leek, caraway and black pepper and decided on the latter lighter one. It is as melt in your mouth as it looks. I ate the whole thing so fast it was so good…I think when I originally ordered it I thought I would share it, but after the first bite, it was like that thought never existed (I did share tastes).

Nostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, Italian

Nostrana also has an wood fired oven and serve their pizza uncut with scissors they give to you at the table to cut up your pieces as you’d like. I went with the Funghi Verde pizza with shiitake mushrooms, house mozzarella, garlic, arugula, pecorino sardo, lemon oil… yeah, lots and lots of arugula so I could feel like it was a healthy dinner despite the gnocchi.

Nostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, ItalianNostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, Italian

The apple and pear crisp takes 20 minutes to prepare, and is well worth it- but is definitely large enough to share between 4 people. Based on the foursquare recommendations I had to get the Budino with caramel and salt which is indeed so decadent.

Nostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, ItalianNostrana, Cathy Whims, gnocchi night, Italian

Thank you J of JnJ and my coworker for such a wonderful dinner date. The kitchen brought out food quickly and our server very well versed on the menu and wines, with the atmosphere even though it got full for dinner quickly, still being easy to have conversation and privacy so that it felt intimate and warm, although as you can see from the photos, the lighting is dim. While the restaurant is casual, the staff seemed to treat it like it was higher end with their smooth service that is in and out of your way quickly and professionally- which is nice to see in the super-informal service industry Portland seems to allow.

Beard Nominee and owner Cathy Whims also opened Oven and Shaker in the Pearl, and I definitely want to visit there soon to see what she has done there. They change their menu daily, so it was exciting to be teased about what would be for dinner as I looked at the Wed dinner menu and the Thur lunch menu (the Thur dinner was not up when we went for dinner- it seems they are behind on uploading it online, though they always do eventually update it that day-I looked at it the next day in writing this blog). There had been a crab pizza that had been offered the day before which wasn’t that day- next time I’ll find it online and go that day.

It felt a little Portlandia when on the back of the menu was a list of 20 some local farmers and purveyers she sources all the food from the menu from- but in a good way… it was clearly about sourcing locally so it is fresh and seasonal, not for the absurd guilt reason of “was this animal happy before it was killed so I could eat it”. Not quite as awesome as when my coworker bought eggs which a sticker on the box listing the “Hen of the Month” including that her favorite snack is cracked corn and favorite pastime is “scratching the dirt looking for seeds”. Heh, the hen, not my coworker.

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