Fukami Dinner Recap

Fukami was included recently on my Eater PDX roundup of Portland Pop Ups. Fukami currently is popping up at Davenport on Sundays and Mondays only at 7:30 PM at their bar so limited to 8 seats per dinner. On the menu is an $95 omakase menu (gratuity not included, additional beverages available a la carte). In case you were wondering what the omakase dinner might be like, here’s a look at an example dinner I enjoyed in March that includes 19 bite size courses of which a dozen are seasonal nigiri courses.

Fukami - a 19 course small plates dinner

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Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara

If you were fortunate enough to snag a ticket online for one of the Nodoguro Sousaku Dinners in July or September you will probably be experiencing this “Trip to Nara” theme. Nara is a prefecture and also the name of the capital city of the prefecture Nara, which is also famous for being the capital of Japan during the 8th century, making it Japan’s oldest capital city, before the capital was moved to Kyoto. It is also famous for its sika deer that roam Nara Park and which many visitors buy senbai (they even have special deer crackers) to feed these deer that were once considered sacred.
Deer flirting for food at the Grand Canyon Deer Farm & Petting Zoo Deer flirting for food at the Grand Canyon Deer Farm & Petting Zoo

Fortunately at the Nodoguro Sousaku dinner there are no deer there harassing you for a bite of any of your 11 tasting courses, although the presence of deer is still in the atmosphere.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

Since my last visit for Supa Hard Core, the official seats they ordered have finally come in! I love how comfortable they are, and don’t miss the purse hooks under the counter ladies!
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

The decor for now has nods to Nara’s wealth of cultural history and the influence of Chinese elements at that time to fit the theme.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

Gold edged paper lanterns offer a look at the additional drinks you can purchase by the glass or as a flight to accompany your dinner. I always get the sake flight. In addition, the lanterns at each setting offer guests an opportunity to write their own haiku.
Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016 Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner, themed Trip to Nara in July 2016

After being greeted at the door, guests are directed to the lounge where you can order a drink and relax until dinner service, giving you a chance to also mingle with other guests of assemble your dining party. This includes getting a chance to take a look at the Nodoguro book and also the Questlove’s book on food, Somethingtofoodabout that also features Nodoguro.

Here are the 11 courses I enjoyed – the course may be tweaked slightly to fit what is fresh.

  1. Tomato in Dashi. Tomato is grown and found in Nara. At leat that’s what Elena told Ryan, and Ryan told me… whatever, I am not going to turn down tomato and mozzarella in dashi. The little bit of saltiness and tomato sweetness with creamy Italian mozzarella is all good with me.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tomato in Dashi Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tomato in Dashi
  2. Trout with Shottsuru. Shottsuru is a very funky intense fish sauce though Ryan mellowed it down a bit so it isn’t so pungent so as to overwhelm the dish.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Trout with Shottsuru
  3. Yuan Style Lingcod
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Yuan Style Lingcod Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Yuan Style Lingcod
  4. Peach, Chanterelle, and Walnut. I thought this was one of my favorite dishes with the sweet peach, nutty and earthy mushrooms and walnut, and the creaminess from the tofu you see.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Peach, Chanterelle, and Walnut
  5. Dengaku Eggplant. Another favorite dish for me for the night with the light non-greasy crispness of the flash fried outside and the creaminess of the inside.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Dengaku Eggplant Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Dengaku Eggplant
  6. Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn. The salmon here is marinated in sake and then soaked on cherry wood, and the use of a leaf to wrap the sushi and rice is a way workers in the forest would “wrap” their lunch to go as a bento of sorts and persimmon trees are plentiful in Nara.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Salmon, Persimmon Leaf, and Corn
  7. Duck Sukiyaki. I am always a fan of duck and of a yolk sauce.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Duck Sukiyaki
  8. Summer Vegetable Sunomono, aka pickled dish.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Summer Vegetable Sunomono
  9. Chagayu with Crab and Aburage. Aburage here is the fried tofu, which is cut up and fried crispy almost like vegetarian version of chicharrones. This dish is served with a tea that is poured to make the rice porridge, which is what chagayu means and is a popular healthy and comforting dish specialty in Nara.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Chagayu with Crab and Aburage
  10. Tamago
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Tamago
  11. Togashi with Medicinal Milk. Don’t let the medicinal milk scare you – it’s just coconut cream, and a nod to how coconut is rare and considered healthy and medicinal (and um delicious!). It’s my second favorite dessert that I’ve ever gotten from Nodoguro dinners because this is so unique.
    Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Togashi with Medicinal Milk Nodoguro Sousaku Dinner: Trip to Nara, Togashi with Medicinal Milk

Which of these courses intrigues you? Have you heard of Nara and the Nara deer, or have you fed deer before?

Than you to Ryan, Elena, and everyone as always for the wonderful diner and hospitality!
Elena showing some guests some of the Questlove book that Nodoguro is featured in Ryan slicing up the Tamago Staff of Nodoguro

You can see a listing of all my previous Nodoguro experiences here to see more!

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Nodoguro Hardcore Omakase Sushi

I’ve written about Nodoguro extensively – I was lucky enough to hear from a friend about their very first pop-up, and for the past 1.5 years, have attended many of the pop up dinners at their space now next to Pastaworks on SE Hawthorne. Every 90 days or so they rotate out/in a new theme as the inspiration for their menu and their decor. However, last week was my first visit to their Hardcore Omakase Sushi dinners. And so this is a recap of that 21 course dinner.
Place setting at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Dinner Chef Ryan Roadhouse explains the various seafood in his display of the sushi to come, fresh from being picked up at the airport less than 24 hours before and sourced from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal

At these dinners, Ryan chooses what the menu will be just like his themed nights (aka Omakase), but there is more of a focus on sushi, and it’s not your usual tuna and yellowtail, and there’s no imitation crab meat or anything with cream cheese or drenched in sauce in sight. Everything is dressed intentionally, but simply. Of the 21 courses, you get to see Ryan carefully slice the fish he has displayed on the platter at the beginning of the evening for about half the dishes.
Chef Ryan Roadhouse explains the various seafood in his display of the sushi to come, fresh from being picked up at the airport less than 24 hours before and sourced from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal

Rest assured it is not a night of just raw seafood despite the “hardcore” in the name. Ryan includes many “snacks” before the sushi parade starts, and not all of the fresh seafood which he just picked up less than 24 hours before, ordered from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal, comes in raw form.
Display of the sushi to come, fresh from picked up at the airport less than 24 hours before and sourced from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal

The dinner menu if you attend will depend strongly on what was ordered, based on what is freshly caught at the market and if there are certain fish in season. In my visit, Sanma, or Mackerel Pike, an autumn silvery fish, was a feature that you won’t see long after the beginning of winter. (naturally in Japan, there’s a festival in celebrate the arrival of Sanma season). For the last course you get a chance to request a second helping of your favorite, so of course I went back for this specialty though without the rice, as excellent as it is (as covered in detail by Kyle Hildebrant here).

Nodoguro now is offering two Hardcore Omakase Sushi nights – Sundays and now Wednesdays, partially to help alleviate the response of the October Sunday nights selling out in 30 minutes. Make sure that you follow Nodoguro on Twitter and get on their email list on the Nodoguro website so you get a pre-announcement the day before of when the $120 ticket will go on sale on their website.

The ticket includes dinner but not tip or alcohol – and pretty much you should always get a Sake flight,  though wine flights or by the glass are also available. I have never ever been disappointed, unlike some of the alcohol choices at other pop-ups. If I had not had a work call after my dinner (I was the last to leave at around 10 PM), I might have “helped” them finish their open bottles…
Wine and Sake options curated by Paul Willenberg for Nodugoro Hardcore Omakase Sushi night Wine and Sake options curated by Paul Willenberg for Nodugoro Hardcore Omakase Sushi night

I wanted seconds and thirds, or maybe the whole bottle of the delicious Johan Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir Petillant Naturel whose color was gorgeous, it was bubbly and effervescent sparkling, and very light and too easy to drink. Too easy. The Ohyama Big Mountain sake was fruity yet dry and I thought went with everything, another easy drinker.

Meanwhile, the yellower sake you will see in later photos is the Senkoma Koma Colt Sake had a much stronger maltier flavor that made it a sipper but I never tired of the depth of flavors unfolding as it warmed to room temperature that you will want to save to try tasting just a little sip with the dishes to compare what it can bring out in flavors.
Delicious Johan Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir Petillant Naturel Sake

Next week, I’ll be going to the themed dinner (Harajuku). But for now, without further blabbing like I always do, here is the food porn you are waiting for.

One

Teamwork plating Prince Edward oysters in mignonette atop ice by Mark Wooten and Colin Yoshimoto
Teamwork plating oysters by Mark Wooten and Colin Yoshimoto Colin Yoshimoto carefully adding mignonette to the oysters

Oysters first course at Nodoguro Hard Core Sushi Dinner Prince Edward Oysters and mignonette first course at Nodoguro Hard Core Sushi Dinner Prince Edward Oysters and mignonette first course at Nodoguro Hard Core Sushi Dinner

Two

Tataki with 2 types miso: buckwheat and saikyo young white miso
Tataki with 2 types miso

Three

Monkfish liver tofu salmon roe yuzu
Monkfish liver tofu salmon roe yuzu

Four

Flash fried Japanese eggplant in cornstarch, with avocado and salt and yuzu juice
Flash fried Japanese eggplant in cornstarch with avocado salt yuzu juice Flash fried Japanese eggplant in cornstarch with avocado salt yuzu juice Flash fried Japanese eggplant in cornstarch with avocado salt yuzu juice

Five

Abalone steamed in seaweed atop that same seaweed plus abalone liver and uni
"Abalone Abalone steamed in seaweed atop that same seaweed plus abalone liver and uni

Six

Ryan plating geoduck with toasted matsutake sautéed miso butter Ryan plating geoduck with toasted matsutake sautéed miso butter
Ryan plating geoduck with toasted matsutake sautéed miso butter. It still annoys me that you say “gooey duck” even though it’s spelled geoduck. This is the most attractive I have ever seen geoduck. It was also sorta fun for me because I know matsutake also has a long, um, tubular stem to see it with the geoduck.
"Geoduck Geoduck with toasted matsutake sautéed miso butter

Seven

Poached Monkfish liver over sea bream cured with kelp (Konbu jime), here with the Senkoma Koma Colt Sake
Poached Monkfish liver over sea bream cured with kelp (Konbu jime) with the Senkoma Koma Colt Sake

Eight

Kanpachi on aged soy – I’ve always like the pretty colors of pink and white in kanpachi, it’s sorta romantic <3
Kanpachi on aged soy Kanpachi on aged soy Kanpachi on aged soy Kanpachi on aged soy

Nine

Tasmanian ocean trout, marinated 2 hours in soy sauce and finished with aged soy. This was my second favorite fish. Well, after Uni but I don’t count Uni as fish… it should be spread freely, like truffles on pasta or fries or well anything.
Tasmanian ocean trout Marinated 2 hours in soy sauce and finished with aged soy Tasmanian ocean trout Marinated 2 hours in soy sauce and finished with aged soy Tasmanian ocean trout Marinated 2 hours in soy sauce and finished with aged soy Tasmanian ocean trout Marinated 2 hours in soy sauce and finished with aged soy

Ten

Miyagi fresh wild scallop
Miyagi fresh wild scallop

Eleven

Wild Mackerel with ponzu aged soy and shiso underneath the fish
Wild Mackerel ponzu aged soy and shiso underneath fish Wild Mackerel ponzu aged soy and shiso underneath fish

Twelve

Uni from Santa Barbara with shrimp
Uni from Santa Barbara with shrimp Uni from Santa Barbara with shrimp

Thirteen

Giant clam with a little sea salt and yuzu
Giant clam with a little sea salt and yuzu Giant clam with a little sea salt and yuzu

Fourteen

The grilled Sanma with grated red radish, my favorite of the night.
Sanma with grated red radish Sanma with grated red radish

Fifteen

Yuzu, fresh Wasabi, salmon roe on rice
Yuzu, fresh Wasabi, salmon roe on rice

Sixteen

Mana with purple shiso flowers

Seventeen

Just eel that Ryan butchered himself and then prepared with Sansho Peppercorns. Fun fact, Sansho Peppercorns can have a tingly, slightly numbing sensation.
Just eel that Ryan butchered himself and then prepared with Sansho Peppercorns.

Eighteen

Hand roll with crab and uni. Oh man this was so good too, the crab was so buttery and then with uni, and the hand roll meant I got 4 bites out of it. How many favorites have I used so far – this would be numbered in the top 5.
Hand roll with crab and uni

Nineteen

Tamago. Look at those perfect layers of this Japanese omelette. F usually doesn’t eat eggs, but I told him he is going to have a hard time when we visit Japan in December. Besides now being able to eat natto, and eating things with red bean, when he tried tamago he finally understood what I meant that Japanese egg is better than European or American eggs – it’s much lighter.
Tamago. Look at those perfect layers. Tamago. Look at those perfect layers.

Twenty

Miso soup
Miso Soup

Twenty One

My encore that I requested was the Sanma with grated red radish
My encore that I requested was the Sanma with grated red radish at Noduguro Hardcore Omakase Sushi

What do you think of what I had – would you have eaten them all? What do you think you would have liked the most? What is your favorite Japanese restaurant, and what is your favorite thing to order?


Ryan forming the sushi while Elena awaits serving it to a guest

Nodoguro Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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