Flying Fish Science Pub

I had hoped, like probably most of the world, that we’d finally be on the other end of COVID-19 by now. Instead, the caution continues, and the feeling of interrupted lives. Because of the high transmission rate of Omicron I’ve found myself mostly focused on takeout and delivery and staying home, with limited dining out. The first exception I’ve made in 2022 though was for the inaugural Flying Fish Science Pub. They hope to hold more events like Flying Fish Science Pub and I wanted to share what the experience is like. Welcome to my recap of Flying Fish presents Science Pub 1.0, a seafood market and restaurant collaboration with Chef Andre Uribe and Chef Patrick Marg of Sustainable Meals Oregon and guest speaker PSU biology professor, deep sea marine biologist and director of CLEE (Center for Life in Extreme Environments) Dr. Annie Lindgren.
Flying Fish Company market and restaurant with tented outdoor space located at 3004 East Burnside Street, Portland, OR, USA

I’ve been a fan of Flying Fish Company since I first met the idea of the company in 2019 and first tried their smoked salmon and a family recipe smoked salmon dip at events like Cowabunga and Nicky USA’s Wild About Game. What impressed me then and what still impresses me now is the passion for talking about where the seafood comes from in terms of the specific seafood type (salmon, albacore, oyster, etc), the environment it was harvested from, the affection and simple care in bringing out the flavors that are naturally there when you have this kind of high quality product. I miss the oyster bar and seafood market at Providore Fine Foods (mainly it’s more convenient location to me), which they closed when they opened their independent brick and mortar market and restaurant at their current location in early 2020, just as the pandemic began to be realized here. Thankfully, their ability to offer groceries and the outdoor dining space they have has helped them survive so far.
Flying Fish Company market and restaurant with tented outdoor space located at 3004 East Burnside Street, Portland, OR, USA

Hands down Flying Fish is the best place in Portland to get seafood if you don’t fish for it yourself or have a line to a fisherman. They publish their “Fresh List” daily like an old fashioned shop that has a board but modern because you can find it on the web. You’ll find fresh fish and shellfish of course, and smoked fish, but also the best pantry of tinned seafood and some meat options if you want to put together surf and turf. They have a menu of prepared food to dine outdoors or enjoy as takeout that includes some pretty amazing small plates and fish and chips. They even have an event list that includes different kind of field trips such as fishing or oysters. When I heard they were offering a dinner event called Flying Fish Science Pub that includes nourishing four course meal and nourishing conversation about sustainable eating, and it included a female marine biologist professor oh yeah, I was all in.

I want to note this was Science Pub 1.0 so it was the first attempt at this type of event, so they may make changes to future events so your experience may not exactly be like mine. But here is what my experience was like.

Flying Fish Science Pub takes place on a Tuesday, when the restaurant is closed normally, which means only the attendees of this private event of 20 some people is who you will be sharing the space with. The event is held outdoors, but it is in a covered tent with plenty of heaters, so you don’t need to worry about the weather or being cold (in fact it was so warm I ended up having to remove my coat!).
Flying Fish Company market and restaurant with tented outdoor space located at 3004 East Burnside Street, Portland, OR, USA Flying Fish presents Science Pub, a market and restaurant with tented outdoor space collaboration with Chef Andre and Chef Patrick of Sustainable Meals Oregon and guest speaker PSU biology professor, deep sea marine biologist and director of CLEE (Center for Life in Extreme Environments) Dr. Annie Lindgren

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Fullerton Wines Food and Wine Dinner

The Portland tasting room of Fullerton Wines made news recently with adding chef Rob Grisham to lead the food pairings with wine for dinners on Thursday nights.
Fullerton Wines Food and Wine Dinner Fullerton Wines Food and Wine Dinner

The menus may change often (weekly – you can get a preview seemingly on their webpage for reservations), so consider this only an example from their opening week. My dinner included a horizontal wine pairing flight that highlighted five pinot noirs (they actually offer seven pinots from 2017 and different vineyards, so your vertical wine flight may vary), each from a different AVA.

Fullerton Wines’ wine portfolio focuses on Burgandian varietals and the terroir of Willamette Valley wines with pinot noir, pinot noir rosé, pinot gris, and chardonnay. This family owned business includes their Five FACES line (a nod to the five members of their family), but also in particular a Single Vineyards series highlighting single vineyards and different AVAs, mostly with sedimentary and/or volcanic soil. That makes the food and wine pairing not only delicious, but educational as well. As each wine is poured, I enjoyed hearing the family vineyards that the winemaker Alex Fullerton, sources each wine from, and hearing stories about each wine and vineyard that really connect you locally.
Fullerton Wines Food and Wine Dinner Fullerton Wines Food and Wine Dinner

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Perfect Portland Presents

If you are looking for perfect Portland presents – gifts that are perfect for holiday giving or any event giving be it birthday, anniversary, “thinking of you”, putting a welcome package for a visitor or to send a taste of Portland to those farther away, this is your list. Here are my top recommendations of gifts that are from local creators and are excellent representations of the Portland spirit.

Only Child Chocolate

Only Child Chocolate is a local woman owned business with tasty creative chocolate creations. Yana Yakhnes has her regular bars which are available year round, with my favorites like The Sun and the Sea is a equal parts dark chocolate and sunflower seeds and then topped with sea salt, Pita the Great is a dark chocolate with pita chips, hazelnuts and dukkah (cumin, coriander, fennel, sesame seeds, salt and pepper), or the Rosemary and Ginger Walk Into a Bar is a Milk Chocolate with rosemary and candied ginger, or if you are a white chocolate lover the Hedgehog in the Fog, a white chocolate with bergamot and black pepper. The name of this chocolate bar comes from a Russian cartoon from Yana’s childhood, and as a nod to the cartoon the flavor of bergamot references the tea the hedgehog wants to have with his bear friend. Indeed, look at how cute her packaging and the names of her chocolates are!
Only Child Chocolate is a local woman owned business with tasty creative chocolate creations. The Sun and the Sea bar is equal parts a dark chocolate and sunflower seeds topped with sea salt Only Child Chocolate is a local woman owned business with tasty creative chocolate creations. Pita the Great is a dark chocolate with pita chips, hazelnuts and dukkah (cumin, coriander, fennel, sesame seeds, salt and pepper)

She has lots of fun concepts that stand out as well. At Halloween she offered a oracle board of chocolate, and for Valentine’s a chocolate heart that came with a little hammer to smash. One fun concept currently on offer is a Dino Dig with “dinosaur bones” made out of caramelized white chocolate and crunchy cocoa nibs then buried them in rich cocoa powder blended with cinnamon, cloves, and cane sugar that you can excavate them from. A jar of Sun and Sea Confetti puts together bits of chocolate, bits of sunflower seeds, and flakes of salt are here to top on anything you desire be it ice cream, granola, toast, or whatever you can think of.


Only Child Chocolate is a local woman owned business with tasty creative chocolate creations. Dino Dig offers dinosaur bones made out of caramelized white chocolate and crunchy cocoa nibs then buried them in rich cocoa powder blended with cinnamon, cloves, and cane sugar that you can excavate them from. Only Child Chocolate is a local woman owned business with tasty creative chocolate creations. A jar of Sun and Sea Confetti puts together bits of chocolate, bits of sunflower seeds, and flakes of salt are here to top on anything you desire be it ice cream, granola, toast, or whatever you can think of.

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Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit

One of the most unique activities you can do on a visit to Iceland is to do a glacier hike and ice cave visit. Glaciers are shrinking every year so see them now to enjoy them at the current state while you can. There are many glacier hike and ice cave visit tours available – going with a guide is a must as they have the experience to keep you safe. Tours are also highly dependent on weather, and the ice caves with the beautiful blue ice generally are accessible starting in fall through spring and not during the summer. That said there are some caves accessible in the summer as well – just with less blue. Our visit was in mid-October, and although the sun did not come out until later, we were still able to admire the unique blues of the ice even in the overcast sky and were grateful it wasn’t raining or snowing and not too windy either.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

The farther you get from Reykjavik the better the ice caves will likely be – so pay attention to where your tour will start and go, and if possible which outlet glacier. The marketing names for the ice caves, ranging from “Crystal Blue” to “Sapphire” or “Blue Ice” variations, make it hard to differentiate, and some require hiking in, others use a super jeep or snowmobile or other vehicle to reduce walking. The amount of time or size of the cave varies not just from cave to cave but also every year.

One of the ice caves on Langjökull Glacier is a manmade cave that is more of a tunnel. I think the natural glacier caves on Vatnajökull are preferable, though many more hours away versus easily do-able from Reykjavik. You probably want an ice cave of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and which has around 30 outlet glaciers. My impression is that the glacier hike and ice cave visit tours that leave from Jökulsárlón are larger ice caves then from Skaftafell or the ones on Katla from Vik. I also believe the Katla ice caves have less blue and more black ice from being part of Katla volcano. You will likely need to stay overnight somewhere in the Southeast coast the day before your hike in order to do the tours on Vatnajökull.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

The tour we went with Troll Expeditions was a glacier hike and ice cave visit from the Skaftafell Terminal. We hiked to the glacier past initial areas of volcanic and mossy fields so viewed the green moss landscape up close and the glacier from afar before actually walking on the glacier ice itself. Don’t walk on precious moss. Moss is slow growing (1 cm each year), and has short roots, so walking on the fragile moss can pull it up and kill it, and it take decades or even centuries to grow back. Moss could also be hiding sharp edges or crevices or holes in the lava field. So only visually enjoy the moss fields and stay on the trails.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

Of the 4 hour tour, probably about an hour was spent being fitted for our crampons and getting other gear like a helmet with headlamp, harness, and ice axe; driving to and where we were dropped off to start our hike; and returning our equipment. So about 3 hours of actual physical activity, and maybe 20 min actually in the ice cave. Our group was broken into two so half of us (we were in the first group of 9 of us, total group size for the tour was about a 15 people) entered first as it is a small cave. Then we switched where we exited and then toured and hiked the glacier with one of the two guides.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter TourGlacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

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Glaciers and Diamond Beach

This is part two of a three part recap of a trip to South Iceland I took in mid October 2021. In the first South Coast of Iceland highlight, I focused on Southwest Coast and waterfalls and an iconic black sand beach. For this post, I am going to continue on to the Southeast Coast and share the beauty of Glaciers and Diamond Beach, specifically at Jökulsárlón. In the next post, I will go into more detail as you can follow along with me on a Glacier Hike and Ice Cave tour. It’s possible to visit Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach without a tour, but for us, to save myself the effort of multi hours long drive, we opted for a 2 day tour with Troll Expeditions. They did the driving while we enjoyed charging plugs for our phones and wireless internet and the views and yes sometimes napping.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull. We arrived for sunset.

I knew when I was planning my trip to Iceland that seeing the Glaciers and Diamond Beach was among my top priorities. Glaciers are shrinking every year – so seeing them now is a chance to enjoy them at the current state which will not return again. Iceland, Alaska, the Alps, and Himalayas are particularly suffering the effects of melting at an accelerated pace. I would encourage anyone to check out the glaciers – climate change is science and real – to catch them as they retreat and will become smaller and over time less accessible for us to view. It will look different every year.

In particular, for me viewing the icebergs in the glacier lagoon and then the glittering ice of Diamond Beach that I will cover in this post is both melancholy and mesmerizing. Uniquely beautiful, but also understanding this is the consequences of the melting and slowly dying glaciers and the last the thousands of years of frozen water will be this sliver of glacier identity before mixing and disappearing into the rising ocean. It’s both appreciation and a little sorrow.

As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers of Vatnajökull National Park all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the tour van window on Route 1/Ring Road, up to our first glimpse of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Jökull means ice or glacier, and sárlón translates to lagoon in Icelandic.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Glacial lakes form from troughs eroded by glaciers. Jökulsárlón is the largest glacial lake in Iceland and is 200-300 meter deep and 25 km long, formed in a trough likely formed during the Ice Age but the ever-growing lagoon only formed around 1934. Before that, the glacier used to reach the highway. The glacier lagoon is filled with the meltwater from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Vatnajökull. There are also icebergs from ice blocks that have broken off/calved from Breiðamerkurjökull in the lagoon, eventuallymaking their way to the Atlantic ocean. As the glaciers recede up the valley, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is visibly growing in size and some may think will become a fjord over time. In the photos, you can see the icebergs floating from right to left towards the ocean guided by currents, winds, and tides.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull

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