A Lunch at Gruner: Burgerquest continued

September 8, 2011 by Leave a Comment

A lunch at Gruner of grilled burger on a potato bun with smoky bacon, fontina (also had the choice of cheddar instead), pickled onions, bread & butter pickles, aïoli & arugula, served with fried smashed potatoes.

Gruner lunch, alpine food, Portland Oregon, grilled burger on a potato bun with smoky bacon, fontina

The Cascadia meat patty was very rich thanks to its high fat content- dripping down my hands actually. I wasn’t quite a fan of the poppy seed potato bun as the top bun kept the crunchy but soft top but then the bottom bun it acted like a sponge that soaked up those drippings and became super soggy at the bottom like it needed to be wrung out it was too full of juices. I believe the buns are made in house (like the breads they offer at dinner)- maybe it needed more resting time upside down to get the bottom half to stand up for the burger, or a cut that gave more bread proportion to the bottom.

Definitely the bun experience I had was a surprise since I had heard such raves about it, and I didn’t really need that much extra fat percentage in the burger- I think Portlanders just love fat even more then I do (even though I do too). I can still see why this burger made the BurgerQuest top 10 list of burgers in Portland, but in my opinion it wasn’t as good as the Toro Bravo burger (also available at Tasty N Sons which is where I had it) despite Nick Zukin’s ranking in Willamette Weekly. I can’t articulate well why this burger with 25% fat was too much, although the Toro Burger at 20-22% is not and delicious to me, except the mouthfeel and drippings just went past a tipping point to me.

I loved the bacon, fontina (which seemed to be a better match given the Alpine cuisine Gruner serves), peppery arugula and there was something special about that currywurst ketchup that I wanted to slather over everything. I was disappointed by the very small portion of smashed fried potatoes which I had to carefully spread out for some crunch with a small dip of ketchup since there were only 5 slivers of them.

Gruner lunch, alpine food, Portland Oregon, grilled burger on a potato bun with smoky bacon, fontina

What looked very lovely was my co-worker’s much healthier lunch of green beans, blackberries, goat cheese, hazelnuts, duck, black currant vinaigrette, crispy shallots. This inspires me to make my own version at home one day and try a green bean salad creation instead of a sauteed version.

Gruner lunch, alpine food, Portland Oregon, green beans, blackberries, goat cheese, hazelnuts, duck, black currant vinaigrette, crispy shallots

Signature

Filed Under: Food and Drink, Restaurant Review Tagged With: , , , ,

Pan Roasted Corn Salad with Mozzarella and Tomatoes in Lemon Dressing

September 5, 2011 by Leave a Comment

I learned at the Caprial + John cooking class that to add that taste of smoky char flavor to corn, I don’t necessarily need to roast it on the grill while on the cob. I put this new learned execution method to use yesterday when making a dish for a Labor Day barbecue.

I also made a dressing for this recipe modified from one on Food Network which I chose because the dressing uses lemon juice instead of vinegar, specifically what I wanted to give the greens zing without too much acid so it would be a counter to the babyback ribs I knew would be at the bbq and the fact that the weather would be more then 90 degrees. I thought that having the sweet and smoky corn with the burst of tomatoes and tartness in a salad would go well, and had mozzarella for some bits of creaminess and toasted almonds for crunch.

 Ingredients:

  • 6 cups of spinach and spring mix greens
  • 3 tablespoons of butter
  • 5 cups of sweet corn niblets
  • 2 cups of cherry tomatoes
  • Juice of 1 lemon or 2-3 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons (or to taste depending on what you use) of your favorite bbq seasoning. I used Weber Grill Kickin Chicken seasoning
  • Ground salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/2 pound of fresh mozzarella (optional).
  • 1 cup of unsalted almonds (optional)

Directions:

  1. First, I defrosted the frozen sweet corn and cooked it slightly by putting it in a wide pan with 1 cup of water and heating it on medium for about 15 minutes or so until all the corn is no longer frozen but still firm. This will take less time if you cut the corn kernals fresh from the cob instead. Drain the corn in a colander.
  2. In that same pan on med-high, I heated about 3 tablespoons of butter until it was sizzling and distributed throughout the pan. Pour in the corn and spread it out so the most amount of corn is touching the pan bottom and butter. Do not touch the corn for about 7 minutes or so in order for the corn to brown, and then stir to distribute the char and remove from heat. Pour into your planned serving container (I used a 4 qt dish) and let cool.
  3. I cut all the cherry tomatoes in half, and once the corn was cool, added it to the dish of corn kernals.
  4. Cut up the fresh mozzerella into small squares and add to the top (again to the cooled corn so it doesn’t melt)
  5. In a bowl, I whisked the lemon juice, olive oil, ground some salt and pepper, and the bbq seasoning to make the dressing
  6. Add the greens, and then the dressing and toss. When the greens and dressing mix it will wilt a bit, so depending on size of your container you may have to add, mix, and then add, mix like I did.
  7. Take the almonds and cut them into slivers or pieces toast them in the saucepan until golden brown and top them on the salad for more crunch – you can also add them raw but I like them warm and toasty to bring out more flavor while softening the nut slightly

The recipe above serves 6 as salad courses and fed 9 as a side the barbecue. Total time was 45 minutes, mainly as there was some waiting to cool time so it is easy to make this while also mulitasking another dish. While the corn is initially warming in the water step, cut your tomatoes. You can keep yourself busy and away from the temptation from touching your corn while it is browning by cutting and toasting your almonds if you don’t need them warm on your salad. Then while the corn is cooling spend your time cutting the mozz and making the dressing.

You can also make all of this ahead of time and just leave out the greens and dressing and combine right before mealtime. Or, you can skip the greens and dressing part and just use a handful or so of fresh basil and make it more focused on the corn and tomatoes and cheese. F is a baby and didn’t like the creaminess of the cheese, so another alternative woudl be to use fresh tofu instead to still get that texture and not the flavor (even though I think mozz is already a really light cheese). If you want more cheesy kick, try goat cheese, or feta.

Signature

Filed Under: Cooking, Food and Drink Tagged With: ,

Another visit to Breakside Brewing

September 3, 2011 by Leave a Comment

I saw Breakside Brewing had just released their bourbon barreled Aztec on Wednesday, so  I had to go check it out. The Aztec is their take on an American strong ale. It is dark (my type of beer) and brewed with honey malt, cocoa, and a mix of Serrano and Habanero chiles. This is a regular on their tap, but this version was additionally aged in bourbon barrels, which I found tamed the spice so it was less backside taste of English Indian curry as instead there was more rounded smoothness, with even a tinge of hard alcohol sweetness. It is sweet, spicy, and strong (12%).

I selected for dinner Breakside Brewing's Curry Fried Chicken served on a bed of mashed potatoes and seasonal local veggies topped with a curry bechamel, fresh pico de gallo, and crispy onions. It went really well to compliment the beer- the chicken was moist with a thick crispy fried skin, the mashed potatoes were creamy as was the curry sauce (resonating the smooth but spicy of the beer), the veggies were cooked right to bring out some color of the broccoli but it was still crisp, and the pico de gallo balanced it out with a bit of tart juicy acid. I would order this dish again, depending on the beer I am highlighting.

Not that of course as soon as we sat down we didn't as a group once again order the excellent blue cheese waffle fries. You can't come here without ordering that again. We also tried on the barkeep's recommendation the Fire Roasted Jalapeno Poppers, fresh jalapenos stuffed by hand with chorizo, jack, cheddar, and cream cheeses, herbs, and spices… which I liked though not as much as the blue cheese waffle fries (photo of fries from previous visit– I was drinking beer when the fries came thanx)

Other dishes served to my beer drinking companions included two other appetizers since they are so generously sized: Breakside Brewery's Housemade Hummus and Marinated Veggie Plate with olives, Italian marinated tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled onion, pepperoncini, feta, and pita; and their Nachos with housemade pico de gallo, jack and cheddar cheese, black beans, sliced jalapenos, guacamole and sour cream

The only other entree that night was the Lambwich 1/2 lb Lamb/Beef patty cooked to your liking, served on a Brioche bun with pesto mayo and Tzatziki Sauce topped with red peppers, pickled onions, lettuce, and tomato, with a side of salad

In terms of breweries to visit, Breakside and their regular update of their beer offerings weekly on Wednesday with special collaborations makes it one of my most highly recommended brewery to visit when in Portland, kicking out my previous choice of Rogue to try "unique beers", and it even pushes me to go outside my usual downtownish/Pearl hood for beer.

Signature

Filed Under: Beer Review, Food and Drink Tagged With: , , ,

The Last Days of Summer: A cooking class with Caprial + John

August 31, 2011 by 2 Comments

I signed up for a cooking class last night with Caprial + John’s Kitchen. Last year I was able to attend one of their supper clubs, which was my first taste of their food in a family-style dining atmosphere in their beautiful backyard of their home (they usually hold it in their Kitchen, but circumstances had them move it to their backyard so it was like a wonderful summer party with friends). As fate had it, this class also would get moved to be held at their home instead of their kitchen/classroom, so I got to have another summer evening with food and friends and strangers thanks to Caprial and John. Even though it was unseasonably autumn chilly, John pulled out various sweatshirts for some of the participants, and there was warmth from their outdoor pizza oven too as well as their grill, burner, and various torches they had lit,

The cooking class gave me an opportunity to try another venue besides HipCooks, and also allowed me to dig into some Caprial + John Pence recipes which are more Pacific Northwest cuisine inspired. As a plus, the class offerings can be used to pace out a full formal meal (appetizer, salad, entree, side dish, and a dessert). Caprial and John are professionals- they used to run a quite famous restaurant, Caprial hosted a television cooking show and authored several cookbooks, and this duo is part of the movement and history that  helped give Northwest cuisine a name in American food.

The format for the classes is a demonstration by this husband and wife team that allows the participants to watch food preparation while asking questions and taking notes on their tips for variations or execution, and then dine one those products in a BYOB atmosphere (you can enjoy the BYOB from prep to dessert). It is also fun to be part of their banter and hear them tell their stories from their days working the line, running the restaurant, and making the dish for their family, all under the twinkling lights of their backyard and under the late summer sky with a glass of wine in hand.

On the list for the “Last Days of Summer” class included:

  • Slow Roasted Tomato Salad on a bed of Mozzarella with Warm Anchovy Dressing
  • Stuffed Grilled Pork Loin with Fontina, Roasted Garlic and Herbs
  • Corn Salad with Bacon Tempura
  • Potatoes in Parchment with Sweet Onions
  • Grilled Peaches with Mascarpone Bacon Caramel Sauce

Our first bites were enjoyed while still in the demonstration part of the class, the appetizer of slow roasted tomato salad with mozzarella and anchovy dressing. You can barely taste the anchovy… and I know when I make this salad to serve it with bread to mop up that dressing afterwards.

The highlight was making bacon tempura in their backyard kitchen/grill/pizza oven area for the corn salad with bacon tempura. We talked about lots of wonderfulness that can be made with the pan roasted corn niblets. But, watching that bacon tempura in progress was enough to make several of us pull out our cameras (after being discreet during the earlier part of the class) to capture that food pron…

We learned how to butterfly and stuff these grilled pork loins. John taught us the adult way to tie the loins, and then the children’s way involving a bunny, tree, and fox… which is totally the one I wrote down and still remember today. They came out of the grill all oozy like this

Dinner Plate for the dinner dining part

And finally dessert, the Grilled Peach with Mascarpone Bacon Caramel Sauce. Caprial carefully ensured we knew enough to be patient and leave the pot alone for the sugar browning, all saw the color for when to finally start stirring, and tales of smokestacks coming from the pot if you don’t keep your eye on your sugar.

Signature

Filed Under: Cooking, Food and Drink Tagged With: , , , , , , , , ,

A five course prix fixe at Genoa 8/27/2011

August 28, 2011 by Leave a Comment

The atmosphere of the new Genoa (neither of us had ever been to the original which served the 7 course meal, but had heard of it and always wanted to try it) was serene and comfortable and intimate. Curtains flowing from ceiling to floor let in a hint of the white bright sunshine while doing logistical duty to separate the area where you first enter and were greeted in hushed voices and then were  granted entrance from the seated dining area.

When you first enter as a guest, as they part the curtains and reveal the space as you step in and you swish past the rippling light fabric, you feel like you are being ushered into a VIP area of a show. While at your meal thanks to those same curtains, you don't see any busyness or urbanity of the outside, you are enveloped in a world of the slight hush of a few words of other conversation that sometimes travels through the air but barely so and barely audible music that is there in the background but never interrupts conversation. Despite the tables around you, you feel like you are at a more elegant version of home- you know, the one where you get butler service.

The staff is there at your table to announce the descriptions of your wine and courses, but then seem to just disappear so you have your privacy yet appear from who knows where again after only a few minutes of finishing your food so you never sit long with empty glasses or plates. The seats are cushy and comfortable- thank goodness for that during a multicourse meal.

The decorations are simple- a small flickering candle offering romance but there is enough ambient light around enough to clearly see the fresh colors of your food instead of eating in shadows.   A large vase of oversized flowers by a large front table provided the positive emotional backdrop of the beauty of life (I always think this when seeing real flowers inside, and science backs this up to some extent) while also giving a slight undercurrent living larger then normal life. Seriously, those thistles were lovely and also about the size of my fist!  Then there was the modernity yet warmth of various shell chandeliers that drape delicately from the ceiling while also offering a modern touch to a room of classic dark hardwoods softened with walls covered with rich drapery so you almost feel like you have box seats to a culinary performance…

So what were the players of this show? We opted for the wine pairings with the meal as the mostly Italian wine list meant we didn't recognize even what the profiles would be for the offerings. This meant we could try more wines anyway. We had both the regular Agosto menu and the vegetarian version.

Our amuse bouche (vegetarian and omnivore versions): a mini Salade Niçoise for the omnivore with the best part being that smoked fig underneath the dill topped fishy. I wish this had been served just a little chilled rather then room temperature. The vegetarian version with creamy corn pudding and roasted beet coins was the tastier amuse.

The next course would be our favorite when all was said and done: the Antipasti of a Gazpacho, specifically a cucumber and melon gazpacho with a bush berry salad, fennels fronds, chickweed, farm flowers, Tabasco jelly (that uses agar not gelatin and is made in-house so is vegetarian friendly)… and in the omnivore version, also the addition of a crispy prosciutto. The course was paired with Avinyó's Cava Brut Rosat from Penedès, Spain NV, and you can never object to starting with some sparkling bubbles, and the flavor was very light.

It was presented with the various fruits and vegetables arranged artfully to enjoy with the eye in the bowl before a small pitcher of the gazpacho was poured in tableside. The gazpacho was thick with flavor, and then a little burst of extra texture and flavor whenever a fruit or vegetable also was in your spoonful. You can see in the closeup the crispy prosciutto perched atop a melon ball up from the flood of the gazpacho…

Our next course was also amazing, our second favorite dishes of the evening. For the omnivore, the Primi was Gnocchetti con aragosta, housemade baby gnocchi with poached Maine lobster, salsa rossa, shaved summer squash and blistered cherry tomatoes, paired with Domaine Brana's Rosé “Harri Gorri” from Irouléguy, France ‘10. I was eating each of those lil gnocchi one by one so they could carry as much of the sauce as possible as they melted on my tongue. For the vegetarian the Primi was Ravioli di mais, a course of housemade ravioli stuffed with sweet corn and pecorino, Dancing Roots farm beets, griddled corn, thyme and topped with frisée.

At first a glass of the Rosé “Harri Gorri” was also poured with this, but the Sommelier returned to correct his mistake with the actual pairing, Domaine Guillot-Broux's Mâcon-Cruzille “Les Genèvrières” of Burgundy, France ‘08. The pour had a tiny bit of cork in it so we were not able to completely finish it, but it was our favorite wine of the night. Since we had already come out with an extra glass of Rose, we let it go.

Third course, Insalata panzanella, composed of heirloom tomato, lemon basil, cucumber, grilled torpedo onion and torn country bread with grilled squid (squid only in the omnivore version), dehydrated olive and moscatel vinegar. We were cleaning our plates wiping up that olive oil and vinegar with that lil crispy breadstick. This was paired with Movia's Sauvignon of Brda, Slovenia ‘08. I know, Slovenia? I wondered this too, but actually the vineyard is in far Northeast Italy and straddles both Italy and Slovenia half and half, so the theme to the wine at Genoa continues to stay within Italy and France for all purposes. This course broke up the richness between the Primi and Secondi cleverly.

The main event, Secondi. As the mains they were both a little disappointing. For the omnivore, this was Rombo alla padella– pan seared halibut with coastal chanterelles, corn pudding, summer beans and hazelnut brown butter paired with La Viarte's Ribolla Gialla, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy ‘09 a more acidic crispy white profile. The halibut had great texture from the pan searing, and I had to keep smearing it with the corn pudding or carefully distributing the chantarelles to add flavor to that texture.

For the vegetarian, this was Risotto di zucca – roasted summer squash, goat cheese stuffed tempura battered and fried squash blossoms, burrata, porcinis with rosemary and thyme, paired with a slightly sweeter Domaine de la Pépière “Clos du Briords”, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, France ‘09. This dish as a whole was extremely rich. Perhaps the wine pairings should have been reversed- with all the cheese already present with the burrata and the goat cheese the dish needed more dry and crispness to cut through and go with contrast instead of compliment.

Dolci (which was fine) and a disappointing Formaggi – I can put together a better cheese plate then this, and I understand serving cheese at room temperature but if it's a summer day of close to 90, maybe not quite at room temperature would be a good idea as that is too warm for cheese to hold its form. Except for the blue cheese, not surprising the other two started to blend in flavor so I smeared honey on one and the pepper on the other just to help the oozy cheese down.  I was very very sorry I had not ordered a dolci.

There is no dessert wine pairing with this last course, but since the dessert/cheese course (printed separately then the dinner ourses) also has the various after dinner drinks printed on the other side, and the order for the fifth course was taken with the original dinner, we were not offered a chance to consider more then coffee. At least we went with French press coffee, though it was served after we were already done with this course, the service hiccup of the night. They really should have asked us about our liquid of choice before the plates.

Last sweet bites with the check- the chocolate ganache, the taste of white cake- at least finished up the meal on a better note from that last course.

The atmosphere was lovely, but it just didn't carry through the whole way. IMHO although the food was good (especially the gazpacho and our pastas were excellent), there are many options in Portland at close cost. With prix fixe meals, diners suspend their control of the dining experience to the kitchen, expecting the kitchen to make it better then they can ordering a la carte both in terms of how the flavors blossom over the courses while each course is also individually providing an important part of the story. Indeed progression of courses was very smooth, and the timing never seemed slow (from the 6:30pm amuse bouche after our 6pm seating to the 8:30pm sweet bites with the check), but the the acts at the end seemed to just not be as thought out, like they got worn out from the earlier half already.

Overall I walked out thinking that it was good, but didn't feel special enough given the initial promise. Genoa's strongest point is its gentle atmosphere and polished service- you come here first for that . The food stands up just enough to match but not impress enough so that you are memorably transported instead of nicely sated at the end of the show. They change their story monthly, but with so many choices for dining, I'm not sure when I'll be back- it will really depend on carefully reading the menu offerings and not on reputation alone.

<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/24/281392/restaurant/Sunnyside/Genoa-Portland"><img alt="Genoa on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/281392/minilogo.gif" style="border:none;width:104px;height:15px" /></a>

Signature

Filed Under: Food and Drink, Restaurant Review Tagged With: , ,
« Previous Page
Next Page »