Castagna Explorative Dinner

Castagna has been serving up fine dining prix fixe modern gastronomy menus for two decades now. Castagna and owner Monique Siu and head chef Justin Woordward have been nominated for James Beard Awards under the categories of Outstanding Restaurateur and Best Chef Northwest multiple years in a row. This past spring, they have decided to offer a new alternative to the tasting menus, one that is even more accessible in cost and time commitment. Now, besides the 13-20 course chef’s tasting menu, two days a week on Wednesday and Thursdays there is a new option of a six course Castagna Explorative Dinner Series menu.

For the Explorative Dinner Series, the dinner courses have a theme that changes every two months. During my visit the theme was Surf and Turf (the first themed the series), but the new theme for July 2019 is the Green Menu. Unlike the chef’s tasting menu which sits at $165 with $85 wine pairing extra as an option, a Castagna Explorative Dinner will run $75 per person, with the optional wine pairing featuring west coast wines at $45.

Here’s a look at what a Castagna Explorative Dinner was like for me during my visit to give you an idea of the kind of dishes that might be created for a theme.

Kale, asparagus, saffron bagna cauda, sorrel, fine herbs, seaweeds. This was an ok dish but nothing about it stood out to me, though my dining friend loved it- I don’t get super excited about salads Haha.

Squid ink brioche toasted in smaltz, anchovy aioli and roasted chicken juices flavored with lemon and thyme was my favorite course of the night. I never thought I would say a bread course was a highlight, but it was! The brioche was delicious just on its own, but then you were given the competitive choices of a dip in either that aioli or the jus, both which were rich in different ways. Or, put all 3 together and you’re having a fancy flavor party of chicken caesar?!

Tidal pool of beets, charcoaled onions, mussels, chicken jus, sea beans was so beautifully plated.

Next was a course of crispy pork belly, lamb jus, butter clam, spicy black bean, jasmine congee. The flavors of this dish were intense – I almost wish there was a little bit more of the plain jasmine congee so I could get some recovery between bites to appreciate the umami and salt of this course.

The main protein course was grilled pork jowl, little gem, oyster potato salad. I thought this was an interesting twist with the grilled pork jowl on the lettuce seemingly a nod to Korean pork that you would normally eat wrapped in lettuce, though then I didn’t quite know how the oyster potato salad fit in, though it did offer a creamy soothing contrast to the other components.

Finally, the dessert: Yuzu, dulse, molasses

We were also very fortunate enough to be given a preview of the Green Menu that started in July, as our visit was on the last day of their June menu offering. Based on the taste and textures, I think the Green Menu will be more creative visually and in putting together flavors while remaining within the theme. Here is the Green Menu dessert of green apple, pineapple sage, melon, cucumber, lime, olive oil.

Castagna also shared another gem from the current Green menu theme: green garlic knots. Seriously the bread course of the Castagna Explorative Menu are looking so fun right?

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzt5AzTBxij/

I thought with the less courses, I would have room to go next door to the more casual OK Omens to try the new addition to the menu of this natural wine bar of the dish of “Late Night Girlfriend Spaghetti”, described as tarragon, scallion, capers, jalapeño, lemon, taleggio cheese. But despite what it looks like this is all extremely filling. Don’t worry I went back for it- check out my Instastories (bonus a second trip also meant I had room for that addictive brie butter on their menu)!

I hope to come back again for the full chef’s tasting menu, which in any other city would be under Michelin star consideration, sometime later this year. Probably in another metropolitan, the cost of the dinner would be 2 or 3 x as much – so we in Portland are getting a huge value. If you have not been before, consider treating yourself once a year and dressing up to the top fine dining restaurant in PDX.

Each of the themes if the Castagna 6 course Explorative Dinner Series changes every two months- so make your reservations soon to catch the Green Menu. Other upcoming theme ideas Chef Justin has are listed at the Portland Monthly article by Karen Brooks. One theme idea of Bird that includes a dessert conceptualized with a “black crow” definitely have my curiosity.