Book Club Review: A History of the World in 6 Glasses

For May the Kitchen Reader book club selected reading is A History of the World in 6 Glasses by Tom Standage. For our casual online club there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. If you are interested in joining, check out the website.

This was a pretty quick read for me, part of it is because the tone is very light, which makes sense as the author is an essayist who often writes articles for magazines. As you proceed through it, you get to pick up lots of interesting facts about how the six beverages of the book- beer, then wine, then liquor, then coffee, then tea, and then Coca Cola – was an incarnation of a certain time period of western history. Everything is easy to understand and follow, although at times information is just stated as a story or cause and effect without much more proof to argue that the statement or tale is true. But, there isn’t really anything controversial here. And even if there is sometimes missed opportunities, there are still plenty of fun stories and facts thrown in.

There is one particular quote that I wanted to point out, as I don’t want to give away all the good tidbits of the book, but that I think helps embody why this various liquid drinks are so important in human history:

Unlike food, beverages can be genuinely shared.When several people drink beer from the same vessel, they are all consuming the same liquid; when cutting up meat, in contrast, some parts are deemed more desirable than others.As a result, sharing a drink with someone is a universal symbol of hospitality and friendship.

It was true in each of the time periods, with each beverage, even if some were alcoholic, some were not, some were religious or intellectual or even initially for health reasons, several were even used as a form of currency, but all endured because of the role drinks lay in socializing.

Also interesting to me is that some of the social roles still remain today in our current society.

  • Beer remains seen as a “common man” drink that equalizes everyone. It may have also played a strong part in early human civilization settling down because the beer process makes water safer to drink. Also, people used to drink beers together from the same vessel using straws!
    Christina Collada from Google Places pouring the beer at the Guild Pub House We found a place called Tasting Arizona which offered both wine flights and beer flights.  View while enjoying beer flight- you can see Snoopy Rock towards the right
  • Wine still carries to this day the air of civilized refinement from the Greeks (which probably began with the fact that wine production needs specific climate or trade, while beer is made from the much more common grain). When absorbed by the Romans, wine could emphasize social divisions based on how good your wine was (based on type and how old it was- something that still is intimidating/gives an air of judgement based on what you drink and snobbery today!).
    Tasting room stop before Sip McMinnville Wine and Food Classic: Anam Cara, where Et Fille gets their grapes for their Nicholas Pinot Noir... really liked Anam's clean bright Riesling and Mark II Vino Volo, A vacation starts with a wine flight while waiting for our flight in Seattle to get to Chicago
  • Distilled spirits are often still seen, unlike beer and wine, as a means for getting drunk. The distillation process from alchemical laboratories became dominant during the Age of Exploration, a reflection of how science and travel/navigation were becoming more intertwined – and it certainly helped that distilled alcohol worked well for long cruises in both being efficient as only small rations were needed and mixed with lemon or lime juice helped combat scurvy. The book went a little into how it also was a tool for social control – with a mention of slavery in rum production and only the vaguest hint of the effect to help subjugation with discovered civilizations in the New World. To balance that, although rum encouraged the slave trade, whiskey was a symbol of the pioneer spirit of America.
    American Whiskey Ginger by Bull Run Distilling, made with Temperence Trader American Whiskey
  • Coffee continue to be regarded now as the opposite of alcohol and a soberer (even though this isn’t true!) and the drink of those who are smart. Coffeehouses remain a gathering place for learning. This is where I noticed that the book does focus a great deal on Western Civilizations, as there are many different ways people of the worlds “take” their coffee, and I wish we could have explored that a little.
    Coffee with a heart... Kafae Boraan, Sook brewed ancient Thai coffee with condensed milk and sugar. Available hot or iced.  It looks thick like an espresso, but it is sweetened up with that condensed milk and sugar, don't worry! This is also good with the Patanko and sankhaya.
  • Serving tea at home is still seen as a symbol of being genteel, probably stemming from its Asian ceremonial origins! Too bad though it has lost its ability to just be a whole new afternoon meal because I would like more accessible adorable dainty tea sandwiches and excuses for clotted cream.
    6/16/2008 Domo restaurant in Denver: enjoying tea in a handcrafted ceramic tea bowl Wave Restaurants accompaniments with tea: Sweets of Macaroons- sea salt and caramel, lemon, chocolate and berry , Scones- butter and orange-vanilla, Madeleine- vanilla and orange zest , Market fresh fruit tarts , Tea cakes- lemon-poppy seed and chocolate chip with Devonshire cream, lemon curd and strawberry jam
  • Coca Cola came from the trend at the time to market soda water as a health drink because of it’s refreshing bubbles similar to spring water. I totally admit first I laughed, and then I remembered that when I’m not feeling well I still rely on Sprite to help “settle my stomach”. I also admit that when I was in Atlanta I visited the Coca Cola museum and was surprised that it was pretty fun! I have to admit I didn’t get to finish reading the last chapter yet on globalization, but it’s pretty obvious it is true… have you heard the Coca Cola song for the World Cup, or the ad during the superbowl with America the Beautiful in different languages?

Next in June the book club reading is A Moveable Feast (Lonely Planet Travel Literature) published by Lonely Planet. It has a lot of essays in it by different authors and looks very interesting!

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Book Club Review: Below Stairs and Recipe for Escoffier Sauce

For February, the book club Kitchen Reader selected the book  Below Stairs: The Classic Kitchen Maid’s Story that Inspired Upstairs, Downstairs and Downton Abbey by Margaret Powell. Margaret was born in 1907 England and in this book, tells of her time working as a Kitchen Maid and eventually as a Cook, and generally what it was like be a servant in those times.

This memoir starts with her childhood for a few chapters, just to establish her upbringing with her hardworking parents, the fact that they were poor and yet how even in poverty there are joys, not just hardships.

She recalls when going to school “you took a piece of bread and butter with you, wrapped in a piece of paper, and gave it to the teacher to mind, because many of us children were so hungry that we used to nibble it during the course of the morning”. Another time, wanting to go to the circus, and in order to raise the money for her and her siblings to do so (half a crown), they would collect manure.

Yet despite this, she ends positively, with how great school and learning was, or sighing how the circus was like a fairytale and she thought all night about the experience. This is a theme throughout the book- terrible conditions, hard work, but also small joys.

Book Jacket for Below Stairs: The Classic Kitchen Maid's Memoir That Inspired Upstairs, Downstairs and Downton Abbey

Despite the mention of Upstairs, Downstairs and Downtown Abbey on the cover, it should be clear that this book is the story of Margaret, not of her employers- there is some reflection on them, but as she changes employers (and she does not ever work for the aristocracy- there are no Lords or Ladies here) the story is about her experiences, not their scandals.

Even at that level though, being a servant wasn’t just about being poor. It was about being treated as a whole other type of human because of her class. This included being looked down and talked to by her employers in that she can’t just hand them a newspaper. She was admonished to put it on a silver platter first before handing it to them.

Her room was so cold that she had to break a layer of ice to wash up in the morning. By the way, the room is probably furnished with the employing family’s cast-offs they don’t want – such as blankets that are plush curtains with the bobbles still on them.

As a kitchen maid every day she had to undo and then redo the bootlaces of the daughter and nanny in order to iron them (!) as part of her routine in scrubbing and cleaning shoes.

Despite all that, small freedoms provided a small degree of identity and line that was hers. For instance, she seemed to revel in victories like being able to successfully move from the lowest servant position, kitchen maid, to cook, and move from house to house when she wanted a change. She was able to get away without wearing her cap as part of her uniform, she was able to sometimes negotiate a day off a week as part of her employment, and push back against being simply told to move to the countryside with the family but downgraded as a house parlourmaid instead of the cook position she had.

Johannes Vermeer - Het melkmeisje. The Milkmaid (De Melkmeid or Het Melkmeisje), sometimes called The Kitchen Maid, is an oil-on-canvas painting of a domestic kitchen maid by the Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer. It is now in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, Netherlands

Margaret has an awareness of social unjustice, and the divide among those who have and those who haven’t. There are many times she remarks upon the differences between Us and Them-

“Perhaps if we had been allowed to mix, we would have become quite friendly but I don’t think so because they were brought up with an ingrained idea that they were a different class of people from us altogether.”

She observes

“It was the opinion of ‘Them’ upstairs that servants couldn’t appreciate good living or comfort, therefore they must have plain fare, they must have dungeons to work in and to eat in, and must retire to cold spartan bedrooms to sleep. After all, what’s the point of spending money making life easier and more comfortable for a lot of ungrateful people who couldn’t care less what you did for them? They never tried, mind, to find out if we would have cared more by making our conditions good and our bedrooms nice places in which to rest.”

At another point, she notes

“In fact, all my life in domestic service I’ve found that employers were always greatly concerned with your moral welfare. They couldn’t have cared less about your physical welfare; so long as you were able to do the work, it didn’t matter in the least to them whether you had back-ache, stomach-ache, or what ache, but anything to do with your morals they considered was their concern. That way they called it ‘looking after the servants’.

They didn’t worry about the long hours you put in, the lack of freedom and poor wages, so long as you worked hard and knew that God was in Heaven and that He’d arranged for it that you lived down below and laboured, and that they lived upstairs in comfort and luxury, that was all right with them.”

She is observant and the tone in the book is very direct, like a great grandmother talking and not caring what you think, just telling it like she sees it. There is bitterness, but also some reflection that ends in admitting that perhaps her view is wrong, and also humor.

There are no specific recipes in the book, although she talks about a breakfasts of milk pudding or macaroni cheese or cottage pie, whatever was left over from the night before.

She recalled the fancy plating of a dish of cutlets where the mashed potatoes would be rolled in egg and breadcrumb balls slightly larger then walnuts and then arranged in a pyramid on a silver dish while the cutlets would stand on end with a little white frill on each bone all around, with parsley at intervals.

I think I read that description several times, trying to picture the craziness here.

In the book, she mentions her invention of her famous kipper savoury. It involved kipper that had not been eaten being tossed  into the pig bucket, but when told that the Madam expected her to use that leftover kipper for dinner, she fishes it out, cleans it with soap!

Then, to disguise the soap, she covers it up with

“that good old stand-by, Escoffier sauce. It’s a marvelous thing for disguising the flavor of something you don’t want noticed. I sent it up well garnished and decorated, and to my surprise Mrs Bernard sent the parlourmaid down with a compliment. She said, ‘Tell the cook that’s the most delicious savoury we’ve ever eaten.'”

So, what is this Escoffier sauce?

Recipe for Escoffier sauce, which I made vegetarian with tofu on white rice

Apparently, it’s a sauce that is rich, dark brown, thick, slightly sweet and salty with a hint of tart sourness from the wine. It is apparently associated with Auguste Escoffier, a famous French chef who organized French cooking methods, including declaring the French five mother sauces. I can see why well to do households, even small ones, needed a cook and it wasn’t considered a hobby or passion like now- cooking anything is time consuming!

Recipe for Escoffier sauce

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup Brown Sauce
    • 2 tablespoons Butter
    • 2 tablespoons All-Purpose Flour
    • 2 cups Beef Flavored Bouillon, or Beef Stock. I used vegetable.
  • 1 onion, finely chopped (approximately 1 cup)
  • 1 clove minced garlic (about 1 1/2 teaspoon)
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1/2 cup red wine
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice

Directions:

  1. For the Brown Sauce: In a saucepan melt the 2 tablespoons  butter, and then stir in the 2 tablespoons flour. Cook and stir over medium-low heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until browned. Add the 2 cups stock and stir constantly as you bring to boil. Boil 3 to 5 minutes. Then reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes or until reduced to about 1 cup. At the end, the sauce should be slightly thinner than gravy.
    Recipe, making Escoffier sauce- first make the Brown Sauce from butter, flour, and stock into a reduced gravy Recipe, making Escoffier sauce- first make the Brown Sauce from butter, flour, and stock into a reduced gravy Recipe, making Escoffier sauce- first make the Brown Sauce from butter, flour, and stock into a reduced gravy
  2. Now, for the Escoffier sauce. Saute onions and garlic in butter, add wine, and simmer for 4 minutes. Put together all the remaining ingredients (I seasoned the brown sauce, and then added the onion/garlic wine sauce after it finished simmering) and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.
    Recipe: Escoffier sauce in progress Recipe: Escoffier sauce in progress Recipe: Escoffier sauce in progress

It’s then your choice what to serve with this Escoffier sauce. She used kipper, which is apparently some sort of herring like, oily fish. To feed vegetarian F, besides using vegetarian broth and vegetarian worcestershire sauce, I served it with Quorn Chik’n Tenders or sliced firm Tofu, which I let simmer in the sauce for a bit and served over jasmine rice.

Escoffier sauce with tofu, on white rice. Vegetarian, easy recipe

I read this book as part of the online book club the Kitchen Reader. For our casual online club there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. If you are interested in joining, check out the website.

For March the book club selected reading is The Mere Mortal’s Guide to Fine Dining: From Salad Forks to Sommeliers, How to Eat and Drink in Style Without Fear of Faux Pas by Colleen Rush. I have at least two business trips I need to take in March, so I’m pretty unsure I’ll have time to read the book, but maybe you would be interested in joining our online book club!

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Book Review: The Flavor Thesaurus Review, and Cumin Smashed Potatoes

For February, the book club selection is The Flavor Thesaurus: A Compendium of Pairings, Recipes and Ideas. My The Flavor Thesaurus review, at a high level,  is that you should go in with the expectation that this is a reference book, not a cookbook.

Inside its covers, the London author Niki Segent, has compiled a list of 99 main flavors, which then translate into 99 chapters. In each chapter she explores how the chapters titular ingredient might play with the other 98. For each pair, the exploration is usually in a few sentences to perhaps a tangential story or referring to a general recipe guideline that might be 1/3 of a page.

Based on this, the book is not one you really can sit down and read. Instead, it is one you pick up to uncover some inspiration for some interesting flavor combinations.

For example, her highlight of chicken going with walnut was inspiring to me. She references the kormas of northern India which I have experienced before in thick luxurious sauces, but she also introduced the Turkish dish of Circassian chicken with shredded poached chicken at room temperature with a sauce of onions, garlic, ground walnuts, soaked bread and maybe ground coriander and cinnamon.

She also mentions satsivi from Georgia, with its walnut and spices sauces that is supplemented with sour flavorings like vinegar or pomegranate juice! I had never heard of these before, and it sounds incredibly interesting.

Other ah hahs included beef and cinnamon (citing a Elizabeth David recipe for pasticcio with beef ragu flavored with orange zest and cinnamon), blue cheese topping some mashed avocado on toasted brioche, cumin and potatoes or anchovy and potatoes (the latter exemplified by a dish called Jansson’s Temptation, a Swedish variation on potato dauphinoise), watercress with blue cheese (like with Stilton) and walnuts (say a walnut bread, and/or walnut oil), and the list goes on and on.

This is an excellent book to quickly look up when you have an ingredient you want to use and are looking to experiment with a little twist from what you know. There are not many recipes, and any that are listed are more very casually written like it is part of a conversation you are having- folded right into conversation of the paragraph summation of two flavors together.

So you will probably finding yourself searching online for more after an inspiration, as I’ll be doing with some of the examples I gave above, or just experimenting on your own. The book is definitely not showing you what or how to do anything, only offering ideas for you to grow for yourself with a few guiding hints to start your quest. If you are looking at this book as a start of thinking about what to make, and not to give you an actual meal, than the book will work for you.

I tried out one of the flavor combinations that was suggested- cumin and potatoes. The suggestion was simple- boil some potatoes, and then afterwards I roasted it in an olive oil with cumin. I used 4 medium sized potatoes, which can serve 2-4.

Flavor Inspiration: Crispy Cumin Smashed Potatoes

Smashed potatoes with olive oil and cumin Smashed potatoes with olive oil and cumin
Ingredients:

  • 4 medium sized potatoes, though you can also use half a dozen baby potatoes or a dozen fingerling
  • 6 tablespoons of Olive Oil
  • Ground Cumin – 3/4 tablespoon, divided into 1/2 and 1/4
  • Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Directions:

  1. Boil the potatoes- your choice on whether you want to peel them or not, depending on the type of potato. I like them with the skin on, and in this case I was using gold potatoes. Start with cold water and the potatoes in a pot with enough water to just cover the potatoes and a bit of salt, and then bring to boil with no lid. You know they are done when you poke them with a fork and there is no resistance.
  2. In a pan, heat the oil until it is hot but not smoking. Add 1/2 tablespoon of cumin and cook until fragrant, about one minute. If you’d like here, you can also add garlic
    olive oil and cumin, preparing to put on boiled potatoes
  3. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. On a baking pan covered with aluminum foil, take the potatoes and using another pan or pot or other cutting board, smash the potato down to flatten it so it is maybe an inch tall. Now pour the cumin oil over the potatoes. Using a spatula, lift the bottom of each potato and tilt the pan so the oil coats both side. Because of the size of my potatoes, I used about 1 1/2 tablespoon for the top and bottom for each potato, but you may be able to make do with less depending on your potatoes if they are smaller. Sprinkle a little more cumin on top, as well as the salt. Do a few turns of the freshly ground pepper- you don’t want to use too much as you want the cumin to stand out.
    Smashed potatoes with olive oil and cumin
  4. Roast in the oven at 450 degrees F for 35 minutes or so until browned and crispy at various edges. Serve with your choice of protein- be it as breakfast potatoes with sunny side eggs to kickstart your morning, or at dinner with your protein and veggies.
    Smashed potatoes with olive oil and cumin Smashed potatoes with olive oil and cumin

I read this book as part of the online book club the Kitchen Reader. For our casual online club there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. If you are interested in joining, check out the website.

For February the book club selected reading is Below Stairs: The Classic Kitchen Maid’s Story that Inspired Upstairs, Downstairs and Downton Abbey by Margaret Powell.

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Book Club Review: In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite

So, I totally missed November’s book club assignment! With travel for a wedding, vacation, work travel (and preparing for that work travel), and then Thanksgiving, November really flew by. But I’m back! For December’s book club pick, we were free to read any cookbook we wanted.  I decided to write about In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite by Melissa Clark, writer of the food column “A Good Appetite” in the New York Times.

I don’t know if this really counts as a traditional cookbook, though it does offer 150 recipes… so cookbook? Yet, instead of the traditional just all recipes with beautiful photos, the book offers lots of stories. Rather than recipes being the only thing given, there are so many kitchen and eating tales, and the recipe is the natural ending for each food memory essay. Each recipe is preceded with a tale of how it was inspired, and/or how it tastes and how it will transport you to a happy place. Unlike most cookbooks where I browse through looking at titles of recipes, this is one where I remember the story of inspiration or the flavors described and go seeking the matching recipe.

In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite- I think the cover photo is her Comte Grilled Cheese with Cornichon Spread. Photo Credit Con Poulos
In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite- Photo Credit Con Poulos. I think the cover photo is her Comte Grilled Cheese with Cornichon Spread. 

The chapters are short- about 12 chapters covering Breakfast, Vegetables, Fish, Chicken, Other Proteins, Things with Cheese, Sandwiches, Fried Foods, Holiday Food, Desserts, Pie, and Cocktails. Each chapter offers about a dozen recipes, although there are also variations to them added.

Before each recipe are ~2 pages that go into the detail of the experience of making the dish, or the first time she had the dish and how she cobbled together this re-creation. She can never just follow a recipe without tinkering with it based on what she has in her kitchen or because she follows flavors back to origin countries and is inspired to add more- which made this book very much like one of short stories, with each recipe a journey.

That’s a very high level summary- but what really sets Melissa apart is her writing.

I happen to a very visual person and really need photos to make me crave (part of the reason why I started food blogging was to help track the various photos I take of food memories). If you look at all my other cookbooks, they are always full of enviable beautiful food photography. When I first borrowed this book from the library to see what it was like, I was disappointed with the lack of photos. Then I started reading it, and I realized I was only half-way through and bookmarking half the recipes. I needed to just sit and cook from my own well loved, dog eared worn copy of the book.

No photos are ever needed- her detailed, descriptive writing are enough to convince you of the allure of the recipe. Also, there is the way in only 2 recipes she sounds like your best friend who can cook amazing meals and does not hold back on secrets and tips. She is immediately endearing and makes you immediately want to eat what she’s writing about.

Photo Credit Matthew Benson, photo of Melissa Clark from book jacket of In the Kitchen with A Good Appetite, 150 Recipes & Stories About the Food You Love.
Back cover/author Melissa Clark of In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite, Photo Credit Matthew Benson

I want to be her friend. First, she has a whole chapter devoted to things with cheese. Second, she also says she almost broke up with her husband on their first date when she found out he doesn’t eat cheese… I should admit that in my early 20s, despite being a wonderful friend who supported me and dragged me outside into the world after a breakup, I knew deep in my heart I could never be close friends with a girl because she hated cheese. I still feel guilty for that debt of gratitude for helping me move on but then unceremoniously dropping her out of my life after I recovered. But… cheese (I realize now with vegetarian practically vegan F, karma did get me back- though at least he eats most cheese).

As an example of how Melissa Clark charmed me, she writes about having breakfast for dinner: “One thing about breakfast for dinner is that it’s best made for an intimate number of people, preferably one… Eating cheese-topped scrambled eggs by yourself with the newspaper and a glass of wine will heal all the evils of your day, and you can assemble it in about six minutes flat… As opposed to dinner, breakfast has fewer moving parts to keep track of… it’s nowhere near as complex as mincing garlic, chopping onions and vegetables, and sauteing them all to perfect gold before adding canned tomatoes or fish or what have you. Like stretch jeans and dim lighting, breakfast is forgiving.”

This is then followed by amazing savory breakfast recipes like Buttery Polenta with Parmesan and Olive Oil- Fried Eggs and Swiss Chard, or a Creme Brulee French Toast with Orange Blossom Water, or Baked Flounder with Eggs, or Pesto Scrambled Eggs with Fresh Ricotta (recipe shared below by an adorable Melissa at home in the video. There’s a whole set of videos by Melissa at the New York Times which humorously, plays really whimsical music during the videos). I was soooo hungry reading these, and I’m not even usually a breakfast person (I love dinner most of all).

Each recipe only takes 5 steps or less, and are straightforward. Another ingenious part of this cookbook, besides her warm and inviting writing, is the combination of flavors that also is unique to Melissa and these recipes. She goes Asian with Coconut Fish Strew with Basil and Lemongrass inspired by trying to stretch leftover tom yum soup takeout into another dinner meal. She users one of her favorite pantry items, adobo sauce, to create an almost mole-like flavor in Spiced Chipotle Honey Chicken Breasts with Sweet Potatoes. She mixes up two worlds entirely with a Crispy Tofu with Chorizo and Shiitakes.

She takes Swedish influence from an ex with Max’s Artic Char with Egg Lemon Dragon Sauce, and introduces us to Pan Bagnat (a tuna and vegetable sandwich) from Nice. She shares a secret from an Austrian Chef for perfect light schnitzel by swirling oil as she recounts a recipe for Crisp Chicken Schnitzel with Lemony Spring Herb Salad.

She figures out how to make Lamb Tagine with Apricots, Olive, and Buttered Almonds, but using a deep Dutch oven or cast-iron pot, after combing through 30 recipes for tagine and cherry picking from them all to make the recipe to rule them all, all while never reaching for specialized kitchen equipment, or fancy techniques. Even though in one chapter she mentions she was gifted a stainless steel spaetzle maker, her recipe directions for Homemade Spaetlze with Browned Onions, Swiss chard, and Emmentaler only use a skillet, large bowls, and substitutes the spaetzle maker with a colander.

In trying to make Turkish mock manti, she researched multiple bloggers  to come up with Pasta with Turkish-Style Lamb, Eggplant, and Yogurt Sauce to re-create the manti that “as I remembered, the butter ran down the snowy yogurt in thin golden streams, pooling delectably around the pasta. As with the manti, butter and yogurt melded into a rich sauce, generously gilding the lamb, pasta, and in this case, eggplant with garlicky abandon.”

Drooool…

In her sandwich chapter, she references her mother’s sandwich theory of life, which she distills to “While the act of eating, like conversation, is comfort, the content should be an adventure- transporting and exciting, not dull and predictable”

Figgy Piggy Drumsticks and Thigh recipe, Photo Credit Matthew Benson for In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite by Melissa Clark
Figgy Piggy Drumsticks and Thigh, from In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite. Photo Credit Matthew Benson

She introduces a whole new level of fried cheese with a Pan Fried Cheese with Anchovy Date Salad. There’s also a recipe for Deep-Fried Bourbon Peach Pies, and also an Un-Pumpkin Pie (Caramelized Butternut Squash Pie with Brandy). Also, she mentions Coconut Hot Chocolate with a Meringue Topping, and Coconut Egg Nog (recipe which she shared on her blog here).

About filling her refrigerator with various jars of condiments, such as nine kinds of mustard, she writes “I’m cultivating a prodigious collection of condiments… this carefully built up inventory (certain to keep us in jalapeño jelly and salted capers for the better part of a nuclear winter)… for someone who cooks a lot, an arsenal of strongly flavored condiments is a powerful secret weapon. Even when there is nothing in the house I can whip up a meal from the contents of many jars mixed with pasta or meat excavated from the freezer. Some of my best culinary feats have come out of such condiment alchemy.”

There are practical tips as well- for an Extra-sharp Leeks Vinaigrette inspired by a dish she had by a friend with a Parisian mustards, she adapts with American supermarket mustard. And she’s very approachable- as in one chapter, she talks about how “Corn on the cob. Butter. Dental floss. It’s an honored summer trinity that I look forward to every year.” and from there is inspired to find a way to eat the kernals without the fibers, producing Brown Buttered Corn that she samples too much of to now serve with dinner for her and her husband, so she turns it into a Broiled Stripe Bass with Brown Butter corn Sauce.

Don’t you wish you were one of her friends that she writes about, such as when she writes (before introducing a dreamy Cheesy Baked Pumpking with Gruyere fondue recipe) that her friend’s sister “Susan is the kind of person who slathers her toast with so much butter you can see it rise up in white waves from the side view.”? I would love to be described so eloquently.

Are you not sold on wanting to own, or at least read this In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite cookbook?

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. Except for December which is open-ended, it’s interesting to read the round-up of reviews at the beginning of the month and see what other members have thought! For January the book club selected reading is The Flavor Thesaurus: A Compendium of Pairings, Recipes and Ideas.

Anyway- what’s your favorite cookbook, and why is it your favorite?

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Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese – Portland Release Party

I was super thrilled when Tiffany from Thyme of Taste shared that there was a special event for Melt: The Art of Macaroni & Cheese occurring at Steve Jones’ Cheese Bar. First of all, I love cheese, and I will take any excuse/rationalization necessary to go to cheese.

Book cover for Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese cookbook

I also love Steve Jones, as I have enjoyed all the cheese education he has been imparting on me since the best cheese extravaganza I have ever experienced, his Cheese Bar Spectacular with Ten 01 back in 2010 with its 101 cheeses. That was a one time event, my first time meeting Steve, and was an important jumpstart of my cheese knowledge as it really upped my familiarity with local cheeses. Thankfully, there are still Steve’s annual pairing of beers and cheese (recaps of Portland Beer & Cheese Fest 2012 and Portland Beer & Cheese Fest 2013 as examples, and has done events with Lardo and Raven & Rose, among others). He also helps curate cheese plates for so many of the amazing restaurants in Portland.

Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness

Cheese plates are a great way to try lots of cheeses affordably, rather than buying them by weight $7-10 at a time – instead, you have the opportunity to taste several cheeses for the same price. You can never go wrong with a cheese plate curated with Steve’s Cheese- such as this one below of 11/17/2013, a Cheese Board of Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow – Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep – Italy), and the Crottin (Goat – France). This was my first crottin! I’m a big fan of Borenkaas as they go wonderfully with beer with its nuttiness- this is true of most Dutch cheeses I think. The sheep cheese went best with the chutney you see on the board, and the Crottin’s grassiness was balanced out by the glass of red wine I was having.

11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow - Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France) 11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow - Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France) 11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Focusing in on the Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France)

If you want to appreciate cheese more, the key thing I would suggest you do is keep notes of what cheeses you had- particularly ones that you really love, or really hate. This will help you understand your tastes. An easy way to do this is to just have one document on your phone/cloud that you can use to make your notations. I often take photos of the cheese and the label if I’m dining out so that I don’t have to spend a lot of time typing into my phone instead of socializing. BTW this same trick works with wine!

The Cheese Bar is Steve’s place, a great cheese shop where you can procure marvelous exquisite cheeses from around the world, plus get access to the genius award winning knowledge of cheesemonger Steve or whoever is behind the counter to help select cheeses (and often sample as well to help make decisions!). But you don’t have to just subsist on the samples of cheese alone. Cheese Bar is also a beer/wine bar and cafe, offering multiple types of cheese plates (a cheese plate of the day, soft ripened cheese plate, blue cheese plate, etc) as well as other small plates of food varying from pimento spread to grilled cheese or fondue in order for you to try lots of kinds of cheeses.

Even more enthralling for this last visit for me however was the fact that Stephanie Stiavetti of the Culinary Life blog was hosting the Portland launch party for the book Melt: The Art of Macaroni & Cheese (co authored with Garrett McCord of food blog, Vanilla Garlic) at Cheese Bar. At the book launch party, she was offering two examples of the mac dishes from the cookbook! Amazon link: http://bit.ly/meltmacaroni. And this was a free public event!

PS. Stephanie has cut her hair and is even more adorable than the photo below. Check out her Facebook or Google+ for more updates and photos from the tour.
Stephanie Stiavetti of the Culinary Life blog, one of the authors of Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Garrett McCord of food blog, Vanilla Garlic, one of the authors of Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese

I was so there!

The first sample was a cold pasta salad of Drunken Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini. I was surprised how fresh and salady with herbaciousness this take on mac and cheese was, with only the cubes of Drunken Goat cheese and a light lemony oil dressing.
Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese recipe, a cold pasta salad of Drunken Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini

The second sample she offered was the Lincolnshire Poacher with Cotija, Chorizo and Penne. Of course she used real chorizo meat, but based on the flavor profile I think Soyrizo would work just as well- they key is the grassy contribution of the Lincolnshire Poacher cheese with the salty crumble of the Cotija.
Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese recipe, Lincolnshire Poacher with Cotija, Chorizo and Penne

Although that sounds so specific to pick out Lincolnshire Poacher or the Drunken Goat as the cheese to utilize, the book does suggest several other alternate cheeses that can be substituted in, and she’s great at pointing out the specific flavors of the cheese she was looking for, so you can also chat with your local cheesemonger.

The key differentiator here for me is that Stephanie and Garrett really focused on highlighting the unique exquisite flavors of high quality artisan cheeses, and they prepare them in a large variety of kinds of dishes to really expand the what you can do with these cheeses besides enjoying them on a cheese plate. Though, nothing wrong with a cheese plate of course, brimming with multiple cheeses.  🙂

The recipes really run the gamut, from salad to stovetop baked and casserole to dessert, and also bring in influences of flavor profiles internationally, such as Greek, Mexican, Indian, and even Asian! That’s what really drew me to the book- even though the book title starts out with “Melt”, it’ s not always about throwing in cheese and cream over pasta into the oven. The recipes are a lot more diverse than that so that you could possibly be making more than one of these dishes in a week without feeling like it’s a repeat, since the recipes can be so unique in taste.

Some examples that I am so so excited to make:

  • Pumpkin stuffed with sausage and fontina recipe,
  • Raclette with Farfalle, Cornichons, and Sauteed Onions
  • Turkey and Robusto Mac and Cheeselet (perfect after Thanksgiving as a way to use up some leftover turkey!!)
  • Chicken Breast Stuffed with Leonora Goat Cheese, Star Pasta, and Gingersnap

Pumpkin stuffed with sausage and fontina recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Raclette with Farfalle, Cornichons, and Sauteed Onions recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese
Turkey and Robusto Mac and Cheeselet (perfect after Thanksgiving as a way to use up some leftover turkey!!) recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Chicken Breast Stuffed with Leonora Goat Cheese, Star Pasta, and Gingersnap from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese
Photo Credit: Matt Armendariz, courtesy of Little, Brown and Company

Each recipe also suggest wine pairings, as well as other snacky pairings with the cheese (such as certain fruit) in case you are assembling a cheese plate or perhaps brainstorming another recipe. The book, which has about 75 recipes, is chock full of gorgeous, enticing photos that make you want to cook everything in the book. After only flipping through a few chapters I was already ready to throw out the Pumpkin Mac and Cheese recipe I had earmarked for Thanksgiving this year in order to try some of the recipes above.

Thankfully, wiser minds prevailed, and instead my friend and I discussed how we could just ADD another recipe for another day during our Thanksgiving vacation instead.

Also, maybe I bought 4 cheeses from Cheese Bar for the cheese plate on Thanksgiving Day. Until Thanksgiving early dinner is ready, a bottle of wine and a cheese tray and vegetable tray are the snacks to keep us fueled during our Thanksgiving meal is ready. I said I was going to buy 3, but I bought 4. This seems to always happen. I mean, it only added up to 1.25 pounds of cheese. For four people. And that’s only half the cheese plate.

I’ll report back on what I make from the Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese cookbook, but meanwhile, here is a bit more on the book, including their cookbook trailer! I am SO RECOMMENDING THIS BOOK. And this is not a sponsored post- I just really love it!

Melt: the Art of Macaroni and Cheese – The Official Trailer from Stephanie/SJS on Vimeo.

MELT: THE ART OF MACARONI AND CHEESE is a cookbook that reinvents the American classic, macaroni and cheese, with gourmet ingredients, handcrafted artisan cheeses, and unique flavor combinations. It is the first book to marry the American standard, macaroni and cheese, with handcrafted artisan cheeses and a wide array of pastas, producing dishes that are both classic and chic.

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