Brunch at Brasserie Montmartre

When the wait at Tasty n Alder for brunch the other Sunday was too long as we were afraid of missing the Bolt Bus to Seattle, we were forced to a Plan B. We wound up at Brasserie Montmartre. They offer a complimentary breakfast pastry as you wait for your order to come up- I had a flakey buttery croissant, and F had a scone.

For our brunch entrees, F was surprised at how good his oatmeal was: the secret was because it had bananas already mixed in even before adding the brown sugar and milk. Meanwhile, I tried an unusual breakfast dish with my Bloody Mary: D’Anjou pear fritters with breakfast eggs, potatoes, and Italian sausage. For breakfast potatoes, the oven roasted offering here are wonderfully crispy and seasoned, which is nice to see given so many other soggier potatoes that are often served during brunch.

Brasserie Montmartre, brunch Brasserie Montmartre, brunch

There were several other groups brunching, including several groups of all ladies- and that’s how I learned they have a $10 bottomless mimosa. There was no line/wait during brunch time, service was prompt and we were in and out in 45 minutes which gave us plenty of time to go to an ATM before even going to the Bolt bus stop. Because the space is historic it has a charm that was relaxing and beautiful, without the din of other people or crowding like so many other brunch locations in PDX. It really seems like a hidden secret brunch gem.

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Washington’s Birthday and Peanut Soup

President George Washington loved cream of peanut soup, so here is my vegetarian take on a presidential peanut soup in honor of the upcoming Presidents’ Day holiday. Unlike the version I tried at Mt. Vernon or later at Gadsby Tavern (which is where the painting below is photographed from), this peanut soup version does not use chicken stock. The soup serves about 6 people.

George Washington in a painting at Gadsby Tavern

Ingredients:

  • 2 tablespoons and 2 teaspoons of butter
  • 2 tablespoons minced onion
  • 1/2 teaspoon of minced garlic
  • 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
  • 3/4 cup peanut butter
  • 2 2/3 cups broth – the original recipe calls for chicken but I used vegetable to be vegetarian
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 2/3 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/3 cup ground peanuts

Directions:

  1. In a heavy soup pot melt the butter on medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute a little until the onions are translucent. Then add the flour and peanut butter. I had crunchy peanut butter, so I added that first and then after the peanut butter had softened and incorporated the onion and garlic did I add the flour. Stir until very smooth.
  2. Beat in the stock and season well with salt and pepper. Simmer over low heat and it will thicken, about 20 minutes.
  3. Stir in the cream and heat through. Serve warm with ground peanuts.

For my main, I decided to make a vegetarian chicken in a lemon butter white wine sauce. So, while I was simmering the soup to thicken it, I took 1/4 cup of olive oil and a 1/2 teaspoon of garlic and sauteed some Gardein chick’n scallopini that I had floured, then removed the chick’n to a plate. With the leftover oil still in the pan, I turned off the heat, then I added 3/4 cup of white wine and 1 tablespoon of chopped herbs (I used fresh tarragon and sage) and 2 tablespoons of butter and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Turn the heat back on, return the chick’n, and reduce the sauce to half or whatever is tasty for you, and this was the sauce I topped the chick’n off with when I plated.

I was purposely leaving out carbs this time, but rice would be great- both for the sauce or with the peanut soup.

Gardein Chicken Scallopini and Washington's Peanut Soup Peanut Soup Gardein Chicken Scallopini

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Lunch Date at Davis Street Tavern

Photo post… a lunch at Davis Street Tavern several weeks back. The meal included for him, a Mushroom Risotto with basil hazelnut pesto and spiced kale which was a nice lighter take on a risotto that wasn’t heavy with cream. For me, an order of Steak Frites with grilled bavette steak and green chili hollandaise with shoestring fries that had too much sauce that I couldn’t detect the green chili and seemed heavy like an aioli, I wasn’t sure how it was supposed to compliment the steak. It was fine with the fries. I also had a great glass of red- I have always been impressed with the wine by the glass selection at Davis.

Davis Street Tavern mushroom risotto Davis Street Tavern steak frites

There is something so luxurious and indulgent with having a glass of red wine with lunch, and meeting F for lunch- a lunch date! We never see each other during work time because we for the past 8 years have always worked on opposite sides of town- him inevitable downtown and me doing the reverse commute to go out to the suburban area more. Being a veg he was on the verge of disgust as I sliced into and ate a medium rare hunk of meat, but we still walked back to his office together, holding hands and bumping playfully into each other as we walked, before we had to part for him to continue his workday and I continued on my errands.

Even though F isn’t much of an expressioner (is that a word? Well, I made it one), the first time we see each other when me meet up after work we always pass to each other this little quick small doofy smile of recognition  and relaxation and comfort at seeing the other, a smile I’ve also seen at children when they get tucked in with their favorite toy at night. We still have these little greeting smiles even after all our time together so far, and shortly after reuniting, we report out our adventures of the day to each other. <3

Davis Street Tavern steak frites

 

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Portland Food Adventure at Tasty n Alder

I have been loving the idea of Chris Angelus’ Portland Food Adventures for some time. The idea is that a group of food adventurers meet to enjoy a multicourse dinner including beverage pairings and tip for a set price. And so you arrive and find yourself sitting with all these other lovers of food about to embark on a menu that has been entrusted to the chef and his staff with freedom to take you on this journey. There was no one else with us – our private party had the restaurant all to ourselves. At the end of the dining experience, the chef has recommended some of his favorite restaurants, and you are presented with gift certificates as an incentive and introduction. And no chef is going to send you to a merely mediocre restaurant.

The event overall reminds me of attending a wedding but the occasion is to celebrate the union of food and deliciousness. It doesn’t matter who you are seated with as you mill around the tables during the cocktail portion, looking for your name on the top of a printed menu that designates your seat at a shared table. Everyone here is a fan of food, as if you are all alumni of the same alma mater and you will probably spend the evening talking about the food you are current eating, food you have eaten in the past (sometimes comparing tales at the same establishment as if we all took that same required class), and planning more food you want to in the future eat based on swapping recommendations.

There may be a time where the chefs mingles with all the guests, and there is definitely a time where the stories and ideas behind the courses are shared, as if they are one of the department heads of this University of Tastyness- of which John Gorham certainly is qualified for tenure. This food adventure at Tasty n Alder was marking the opening for dinner of this West Side  restaurant- he is also the mastermind behind Tasty n Sons and Toro Bravo on the East Side.

In this case, he explained how he hoped Tasty n Alder would be a new kind of steakhouse that let diners compare the meat sourced from multiple locations locally and worldwide, and would include cuts that are more unusual and under-appreciated. The menu would vary often based on what was available from his providers, noting another difference from a traditional steakhouse where some classic steak selections would be expected to always make an appearance day after day. Shortly after, dinner head chef Morgan Brownlow explained each of the dishes we would be enjoying.

John and his staff continue to collaborate to fuse their various experiences and ideas to re-imagine dishes to a new level. For instance, while Tasty n Alder is alternative steakhouse by night, by day they offer a brunch that incorporates influences from the rest of the world, including chocolate potato doughnuts, potatoes bravas, glazed yams with cumin maple, baked egg bread puddings, pork schnitzel, korean fried chicken and bim bop with bacon and eggs- certainly not your typical breakfast fare. I love the Toro Burger and the Tasty Bloody Mary- there are new takes of these available here that I must try. Must. Seriously, I’m thinking about whether I can stop by after posting this and before getting on the Bolt bus to Seattle today.

Unlike his two other locations, Tasty n Alder is surrounded on two sides with large windows that are left unadorned, just frames to the boutiques and church on Alder. He is in good company here: just across 12th street is Gruner and another half block down is Lardo and Blue Star Doughnuts. Inside the look is simple woods just like at Tasty n Sons, with white bucket seats. A small bar area doesn’t offer the large communal table of Tasty n Sons, but has an impressive wall of liquors, and there is a small counter with seats by the open kitchen offering a chance to dine while observing the inner workings of the restaurant.

After walking around the block twice so I wasn’t too eager, I entered Tasty n Sons right at 6:30pm, where only a few people of the 45 total of adventurers had arrived. I was immediately provided a lovely Brandy Fizz cocktail of applejack, pampelmousse, lemon, and topped with sparkling wine bubbles and encouraged to snack away, and had my choice of any of the seats at the bar, though the standing portion of the bar with a ledge to hold your glasses and appetizer plates also has convenient hooks underneath. I relaxed at the bar and admired as Mindy, beverages goddess, shaking up a storm, keeping up as everyone began to arrive.

Already on the bar were cheese boards re-purposed for serving of “Chips n Dip”, made in house and better than what you could ever hope for at any Superbowl party. These chips were light and non-greasy, and you could easily be lulled to eating that whole plateful just by yourself if you aren’t paying attention. The sour cream and chives and cracked pepper dip was a cool refresh after the kickass Blaze’s Smoked Wings. As soon as those emerged from the kitchen, the wondrous aroma of those wings was arousing everyone even before we had seen them.

Later, John Gorham would tell us the story of how he met Blaze, who was a friend of someone he knew. It was a dark day because of some personal circumstances, but he went to a planned gathering anyway, as he knows food can be comfort. As soon as he took one bite from a tray of chicken wings that someone had brought, his spirits were immediately lifted as he aggressively started to seek out who brought those wings. When he discovered Blaze was just making these at home as a casual home cook, Blaze was hired on the spot.

Seriously, these are at least “2 napkins” wings, but I also admit I licked my fingers (while making a mental note not to shake anyone’s hand as everyone was mingling and introducing each other). If I had any bread I would have wiped up the plate with it, or mixed it with rice and eaten it just like that as a dish on its own.

Then we were encouraged to find our seats, and after a few minutes of introductions and having just enough time to read the menu and get excited, the family style dinner began with a Radicchio salad. Just like at Tasty n Sons, it is served in a large clear bowl to mix and serve yourself, and this version came topped with plenty of lardons and chunks of boiled egg.

Shortly after was a mix it yourself steak tartare, as well as clams casino, a broiled clam with breadcrumbs and bacon served on rock salt. As you can see, I loved the steak tartare and could also just eat that whole plate by myself. These three items were paired with the citrus balanced flavors of a 2011 Mahonia Vineyards Chardonnay that had enough roundness to compliment the dishes but a finish of minerality to balance the richness.

Next was the ingenious pairing of the Sexy Filipino Fish Stew (also courtesy of Blaze) along with Hofbrau Hefeweizen whose hints of clove (thankfully no banana) and carbonated effervescence did compliment the depth of complex savory and sour and salty notes in the stew. I think everyone wanted more of that stew, especially given the size and depth of the bowl it was served in that had us breaching etiquette by not remembering to tilt the bowl away from us in trying to get every last drop. Maybe I should always make sure to have bread on hand here so I can be sure to always be ready to sop up every last bit of liquid from all these plates.

The steaks and side came as they were ready from the kitchen: a Pork Skirt from Iberico, Spain that was served simply with a sprinkle of salt to really taste the meat; a flat iron Washimi Wagyu allowed to just cook in its own fat and juices and didn’t really need that touch of romesco it was served with as it was already so juicy and flavor; and Teres Major from St Helen’s OR, a shoulder cut that was topped with chimichurri. Of the three, I would have to say the flat iron was my favorite.

Everyone was in love with the skillet cornbread whose moistness and little touch of melted butter on top was more reminiscent of spoon bread than cornbread. The other sides included a baked spinach offering an attempt at pretending to be healthy because see we had vegetables! and pato potatoes prepared in foie butter. All of these were paired with a 2009 Aia Vecchia, Lagone, Toscano Cabernet Blend and also a NV Valdespino Palo Cortado Viejo whose sherry profile worked well to enhance caramelized sweetness.

For dessert, the table shared small tastes of Grown Ass Milkshakes in the flavor varieties of Grasshopper, Brandy Alexander, and Creamsicle. Our gift certificates to Raven and Rose, Mirakutei, and a pizza at Lovely Fifty Fifty were promises of more tastyness to come in the future.

It was a great experience, although apparently after having the Toscano Cabernet Blend “topped off” and having second helpings of extra servings of the Brandy Alexander and Grasshopper desserts, my camera hand was not as steady as I hoped. I would love to take my brother and his great photography skills and equal love for food here, and I’m sure the blog entry covering this event at Portland Food Adventures’ site will make me yearn for graduating from my point and shoot camera and learning some food porn taking skills. Sorry about that. Well, partially sorry. Thank you to my tablemates for their patience as I tried to quickly snap a few shots each time we were served.

Portland Food Adventures are scheduled for Tuesdays, Thursdays. or Sundays, generally one adventure planned each month.  It is totally worth planning to start a long weekend earlier/extending it later or planning your vacation time just to be able to be a part of this. How else will you ever get to try so much food at this level of restaurant in one sitting while meeting equally like-minded new people? For me, in purchasing my ticket to this event, I had been torn and thinking about it for days because of a lot of unanticipated January expenses and couldn’t seem to find any other interested friends, but obviously in the end I decided to go ahead and blow my dining out budget for the month and go alone- and I scored the last ticket!

Next time, I definitely won’t be as hesitant.

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Honoring President Lincoln with vegetarian Chicken Fricassee

President Abraham Lincoln’s birthday is February 12, and his favorite foods (at least per the first page of google results of my internet research) included simple plain food like fruit, nuts, crackers and cheese, as well as Chicken Fricassee with biscuits, oyster stew, and apple pie. So I decided to make a vegetarian version of chicken fricassee.

As my base, I decided to follow this recipe of Thomas Jefferson’s Chicken Fricassee via CD Kitchen in order to also pay respects to also past awesome president Thomas Jefferson (sometimes called “America’s founding foodie” because he was such a lover of food) and which seasons the chicken at the start, while also reducing it to feed 4 people. Reducing the recipe made it easier mathematically so I could also combine it with what was the deliciousness of Martha Stewart’s version that uses a mirepoix and fresh tarragon. I knew that since I was using fake chicken instead of actual chicken that meant I needed to up the flavor of the broth in some way.

Cooking fricassee is in between making a sauté and a stew where you need to let the flavors get absorbed over a long time- so the first half is all sautéing, and then there is 30 minutes of just letting the flavors open up while it all stews together.

I happen to like Quorn‘s chicken (which they call chik’n) the best- they have both basic meat substitute options like what I’m using here so I can cook my own versions of recipe but I also love their prepared meal options particularly their breaded fake chicken line that includes cutlets that are with gruyere or stuffed with jalapeno and three cheese. Clearly it doesn’t taste like real chicken, but even for someone like me that still knows what meat tastes like (unlike F who has been without for more than a decade), the taste is still pretty good.

The original recipe called for various pounds of chicken, which I loosely translated to two 12 ounce packages of the frozen chik’n pieces Quorn offers. Each package is listed to supposedly have 4 servings, but I think that is only possible if you are serving the chik’n in the same quantities as you would actual chicken meat as part of a meal that included other dishes- and consider that each serving is 80 calories.

Ingredients

  • 2 12 ounce packages of Quorn “chik’n tenders”, which you can find in the healthy/natural freezer section
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  • 4 tablespoons butter, separated in 2 2-tablespoons
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup of diced onion
  • 1/2 cup of diced carrot
  • 1/3 cup of diced celery
  • 8 ounces of fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/3 cups water
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, or 1 teaspoon of dried chopped parsley
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon of dried chopped thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2/3 cup half and half cream
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • biscuits or noodles or rice, dealer’s choice

Directions

  1. Sprinkle the chik’n pieces with salt, pepper, nutmeg and paprika and mix.
    the still frozen Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee
  2. On medium high heat, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter with the tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a good size pot as everything is going to eventually go into this pot, use a Dutch oven if you have one. I don’t, so I used my super XL deep pan. Warm the chik’n until it no longer looks frozen and could passable look like chicken pieces and is fragrant, depending on how much surface area you have try to brown the chik’n if you can. I admit I added a little smidge more of butter because it got absorbed to get a little hint of browning, but I was also heating this in a pot to start until I realized I had a giant pan. Remove just the chik’n to a plate.
    cooking Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee cooking Quorn chick'n, seasoned for vegetarian chicken fricassee
  3. Next, add the other 2 tablespoons of butter and melt, and add in the mirepoix (onion, carrot, and celery) to your Dutch oven/humongo pan and let it sit on the heat for a while until the onion is golden and has specks of brown. Be patient, as sweating these down will take about 8 to 10 minutes and you only want to stir every once in a while to scrape/even out the brown bits.
    Mirepoix Mirepoix sweating
  4. Now add in the mushrooms and continue to stir occasionally until the mushrooms have darkened and begun to release their liquids. At this point, reduce heat to medium, and add the 2 tablespoons off flour, and cook for another minute until all the flour disappears.
    mushrooms ready as they release juices for flour step of chicken fricassee
  5. Add in the water and wine. Return the chik’n to the pot and add the parsley and thyme (I used dried herbs here) and bring everything to a boil. Now cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer, simmer, simmer it for 30 minutes. While this is happening, feel free to make your biscuits, or noodles, or rice, whatever you want to serve this chicken fricassee with.
    dry white French wine making chicken fricassee, adding wine and water and beginning the stew part making chicken fricassee, adding wine and water and chik'n and beginning the stew part
  6. Now, the finishing touches. Reduce the heat to your lowest setting possible, and slowly pour in the cream to thicken the sauce, stirring constantly (so you could possibly use other options such as yogurt or silken tofu in theory).  Add the fresh tarragon and sage, and the lemon juice.  Bring to a simmer, stir gently to combine, and serve.
    sage and tarragon making chicken fricassee, after 30 minutes or so of simmering Adding sage, tarragon, lemon juice after a touch of cream to chicken fricassee

Let me assure you now that even though this uses chik’n, this dish is phenomenal tasty. F liked eating it just out of the pan, so the carbs are quite optional. But President Lincoln liked it with biscuits, so here we are. Lincoln didn’t really drink, but feel free to enjoy the rest of the dry white wine (I used a French bottle of Vignobles Fontan Domaine de Maubet Blanc Sec) with your meal.

Chicken fricassee, with vegetarian chik'n by Quorn Chicken fricassee, with vegetarian chik'n by Quorn

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