Smokehouse 21

Sometimes, you want to enjoy some bbq at home and lick all the meat juice and sauce from your fingers without any other eyes on you. Smokehouse 21's carryout (and delivered right to my front door through Delivered Dish, and I was able to use a free delivery code from a promotion at the time) was exactly what was needed.

I tried to put my order together on my phone on the way home, but couldn't seem to get the ordering to work for the whole order, so I had to wait until I can enter the full order from my computer at home. After confirming it online, I kept looking at the clock in anticipation- it's not often I can enjoy bbq since F is a vegetarian, but he was out of town, and again the free delivery code helped soften the guilty pleasure (usually there is a $6.50 charge- the delivery charge varies depending on the restaurant and distance). I know, how young and modern and urban to get delivery that isn't just pizza or Chinese right? I love city living.

Since it was my first taste of Smokehouse's bbq, I went with the bbq combo plate of half smoked chicken, brisket (Cascade Natural beef), and ribs (Carlton Farms) . Even though it came in a box since it was delivery, I think that at bbq competitions the same "presentation constraint" is given and bbq masters are judged on it, so it's fair game. As you can see, the clear takeout box was arranged cleanly, and seemed bursting with the bbq chicken and ribs.  I confess I don't remember if the sauces came inside or outside the box, so I might or might not have edited the original arrangement by putting that sauce in the container (or not).

I only took a few quick photos before getting all 10 fingers dirty and into the bbq, the aroma was irresistably enticing from the moment I opened the bag. Everything smelled wonderful- even Lobo the cat came out of who knows
where in the house (possibly his dog bed upstairs) suddenly to stare at
me, hopeful. The next morning as I came downstairs to go to work, the
scent of bbq still lingered from the combo plate.

 

My combination plate included 2 sides, and I selected to try out their tart yet tangy braised greens (with plenty of bacon pieces), and macaroni and cheese. I also got an additional side of a quarter pound of their pulled pork (Carlton Farms) so I would get to try four of the seven smoked meats they offer. Left out this time were the in-house made sausage, Lava Lake farms baby back lamb ribs, and Idaho smoked trout in lemon fennel butter.

Of all the things I ate, the mac and cheese was just sad, tasting as old and stiff as you see in the photo and I barely detected any of the supposed bacon in it. I made my own mac and cheese the next day to the creamy cheesiness I wanted to counter the vinegary acid of the braised greens and continue to finish my bbq dinner. I also found the pulled pork overdone, dry and needing the classic bbq sauce to punch it up with flavor- I could barely detect anything from sniffing the meat. On the other hand, the roasted chicken was adequately moist and only needed the teeniest of dips into the Carolina style mustard sauce.  

The brisket was as melt in your mouth tender as would be hoped for from smoking it for half a day, and whatever rub they use made it tasty enough to eat without any sauce at all, exactly how good I want my brisket to be. The same was true with the so easy to pull apart from the bone ribs. Both were  just good meat (and sourced locally) in its own juices and a bit of smoke and some seasoning and that's it.

Although the chicken and the ribs may have been the stars visually in the box, the brisket was definitely the highlight of the entire Smokehouse 21 experience for me.  

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Crispy Smashed Potatoes

At the Saturday PSU Portland Farmers Market, this month there has been lots of beautiful displays of autumn bounty. And, the crowds have thinned quite a bit now that the rainy weather is back in Portland, leaving more room to enjoy the market since you can chat with the vendors now that it isn’t bustling, and for that same reason is why you should brave the sprinkles and go visit the market and support them as they stand for hours under their tents for you after coming in and setting up while it’s still dark outside! Be a rainy day friend.
Portland Farmers market Portland Farmers market Portland Farmers market Portland Farmers market

When I saw all these little potatoes, I knew exactly what I wanted to make: smashed potatoes. Little potatoes are perfect for smashing! I bought half and half of both kinds you see here, the Pendolini di Roma and the German Butterball. The recipe below yields enough for two people comfortably as a meal, or 4 people as side dishes.
Crispy Smashed Potatoes

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 pounds of little potatoes, each should be only a few inches in diameter, or if you use slightly larger try cutting them to this size
  • 1/2 teaspoon and another pinch later of sea salt
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon chopped rosemary
  • 1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
  • 1/2 teaspoon chopped parsley
  • 1/2 teaspoon rubbed sage
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Directions:

  1. Step 1: Boiling Potatoes, first round of cooking the potatoes. Put the potatoes in a large pot and add water to cover by ~1 inch of water. Season the water with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Make sure they are cooked but not overcooked, around 30 minutes for me, but keep checking.
  2. Step 2: Drain and Cool. Drain the water from the potatoes in a colander. Transfer the potatoes to a towel-lined baking sheet and let cool to room temperature. If you wish, you can do the prep work to here and do the rest of the cooking later (such as say, working on other dishes for your holiday dinner…)
    Crispy Smashed Potatoes Crispy Smashed Potatoes
  3. Step 3: Smashing! Begin heating the oven to 450 degrees F. Remove the towels from under the potatoes and switch out the baking pan lining with a sheet of aluminum foil and put a sheet of parchment on top of the foil, spritz with olive oil if you have it, gently tilting the pan to spread the oil. Now using another baking pan, press down on your potato on a cutting board/workspace using the baking pan on one potato to smash it flat to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Using a spatula, replace the potatoes back on the newly lined baking sheet. Repeat with all the potatoes.
    Crispy Smashed Potatoes
  4. Step 4: Seasoning. Pour the olive oil over them. Lift the potatoes gently with the spatula to make sure some of the oil goes underneath them so both sides have been coated if you didn’t spritz the parchment paper earlier. Sprinkle in the herbs, pinch of salt and ground pepper.
    Crispy Smashed Potatoes
  5. Step 5: Final cooking. Roast the potatoes until they’re crispy and deep brown around the edges. This should take about 30 minutes, turning once gently with the spatula halfway through cooking.

Final Step: Eating! If you’d like, garnish and enjoy with a dollop of sour cream. In addition, I took the opportunity to also oven roast broccoli with red pepper flakes with the potatoes.
Crispy Smashed Potatoes Crispy Smashed Potatoes

I’ve made these many times with leftover potatoes from a bag after making mashed potatoes or some other dish. They are always good – you can season them with anything you’d like – even though I have that combination I shared above, I have also just sprinkled in whatever leftover fresh herbs I may have and dry herbs and it’s never gone wrong in terms of combinations. Make sure you are patient enough to wait for them to get crispy, and you can have them for breakfast, lunch or dinner!
Crispy smashed potatoes, season with whatever you have on hand, I don't think you can do any wrong Crispy smashed potatoes, good with anything, breakfast lunch or dinner!

Signature

Market PDX Guest Chef: Naomi Pomeroy

Update: Market restaurant has closed since my visit

Looking to bring in dinner guests when there isn’t a show across the street at the Keller Auditorium, Market (which replaced the previous occupant French bistro Carafe) has been doing a guest chef series. I haven’t visited the location since its slight renovation and new conception into its new modernist northwest cuisine incarnation from Carafe’s final breath in June to Market Restaurant’s first opening in August this year. But when I saw Naomi Pomeroy was guesting, I decided it was time.

I hope that when I entered the restaurant the slight blush to my face was interpreted from the new cool weather, versus glancing over the young Asian men who now man the kitchen and bar (Executive Chef Troy Furuta – the bar manager is Alan Akwai). It also seems Naomi is trying the straight versus sideswept bang look- or she just got them cut. The $5 happy hour had the entire bar area packed and happily busy. Dinner-wise, with no show that Friday evening, the seating area there was maybe 1/3 full- seems like Market is still finding its audience.

For the guest chef series it is a prix fixe menu ($40), though you can also opt into a drink pairing, which I did at the steal of only $20. The meal started out with an amuse bouche of a black mission fig torched until caramelized and a bit of crispyness on the outside, then topped with delicate and decadant foie gras mousse. This was paired with a glass of Stephane Tissot Cremant de Jura from France. What an auspicious start.

1st course was a delicata squash tart with shaved watermelon radish and frisee and radicchio salad. This was paired with a cocktail of London Dry Gin, Vin a la Chataigne, Cap Corse Mettei. When I first had this cocktail, I started to worry about the other pairings as this as a pretty strong drink, but fortunately it began to mellow out after this. Admittedly, the strength of the drink was a good cleanser for the buttery richness of the tart, while adding to the frisee and radicchio which otherwise tasted like just the greens with a spritz of oil, nothing special- the watermelon radish was beautiful as garnish but offered no flavor.

2nd course, went into the more seafood exploration, an aromatic steamed link cod in smoked tomato broth, cannellini beans, leeks, tarragon, and sliced late summer grape tomato paired with Maestracci Reginu Rouge, Grenache/Syrah from France 2010. This was the most subtle, layered dish of the courses, with the broth being the equivalent of an andante second movement of a symphony and tomato being the melody because the steamed fish was on the bland side from being overcooked.

3rd course was what I had been anticipating all dinner. It was pork belly porchetta, pickled parsley, calabrian chiles and crackled green olive salsa, roasted market potatoes, pork and veal jus, paired with a cocktail of Agricole Rhum, Verjus, Amer Picon, Campari, pineapple and bitters.

As you would expect from Naomi who is famously photographed holding a whole pig about to be butchered (and presumably enjoyed at her regular restaurant Beast), this was a triumphant dish of multiple textures and robust meaty flavor. I enjoyed the hard crackly crunch of the slightly salty skin and the oozy thread of luxurious fat and moist but dense layers of tender sausage and pork,  and then a bit of fire and tangy sour distributed from the fine mince of olive and chili on top. It really taste as wonderful as it looks.

The cocktail was the best matched pairing of the night, cutting through the richness and ramping it up a notch with its bit of acidity and brightness. I made sure to save a potato piece to mop up all the delicious jus so the bowl/plate was clean.

4th course of mascarpone, Italian plum tiramisu, honey syrup, and dehydrated lemon was a light little layered cake that tasted airy and melty with its creamy texture without sitting heavily after all these courses, an appropriate finish after the porchetta just before.

I think I will have to try Market again on an evening without a Keller musical or ballet performance (or maybe arriving when the show has already started). I can’t believe they lined up Greg and Gabi Denton of Argentine grill and cocktail hotspot Ox the very next day after Naomi- I want to go, but I think my arteries can one take so much rich dining in a short time span.  Next on deck for Oct 20 is Nong Poonsukwattana of her Nong’s Khao Man Gai cart, followed the next evening by Chris DiMinno and Jeffrey Morgenthaler (the mixologist Prince of Portland in my opinion) of Clyde Common. The list of guest chefs only goes to the end of October, and I can only hope Market will continue this idea after the upcoming busy holiday Nutcracker performances of December.

Signature

Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

A dinner at Nostrana, thanks to a special event that evening… egg pasta handmade from scratch and done the old fashioned way with a rolling pin from the tradition of Bologna and the Emilia Romagna region. Francesca (and her brother Tommaso) are from Bologna, Italy and doing a 1 month “pasta class tour” in the US that had started with Texas and then Seattle and had stopped in Portland next before going off to California for the rest of October (go to her website and email her if you are interested in signing up). I’m jealous that she was only in my area for a week but California is getting her for a month for opportunity of learning from sweet Italian girl (at least she appeared that way whenever I glanced over to the banquet table where she and her brother, Cathy Whims, and other guests were having dinner family style right next to us…). It seems a lot more lighthearted fun (and less intimidating) than learning from an Italian grandmama.

Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

I started out with a wine flight of Vini del vulcano, red wines from Mt Etna “a magnificent wild terroir”. I’m a big fan of wines made from grapes in volcanic soil regions. I was in love with the middle wine especially, a Etna Rosso DOC I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ 2007 from grapes of 100+ year old vines, because it was so smooth and almost buttery in feel while being light berry forward. Meanwhile, F was excited and enjoyed some tasty Italian beers such as D’uvaBeer by LoverBeer and Genziana by Birra del Borgo.
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims,

Starterwise, both the salad (Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar) and House charcuterie plates were big hits. I was glad they refilled our bread plate so that I could use it to balance out all the rich meaty goodness. The House Charcuterie plate included, from upper left corner clockwise, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, bread service with olive oil Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar Nostrana, Cathy Whims, House charcuterie plate, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash

Finally, the beautiful handmade pastas from Francesca Tori, thick and doughy and fresh. The favorite pasta was the Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter (although maybe a little too generous with the butter, but nothing a little shake couldn’t help with), although the wonderful sauce with the Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano was good enough to drink as a soup.
Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano

We wrapped up with a Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espresso and Pizzeria Mozza’s butterscotch budino with salted caramel. You cannot go to Nostrana without having budino!
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espress Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel

Nostrana will sometimes host various dinner and even cooking events with visiting chefs, so keep an eye on their Facebook and website to see what Nostrana is exploring next!

 

Signature

Soup, Salad, a Sandwich at Picnic House

It seems that it is suddenly autumn. A week or so ago, it was 90 degrees and humid, still summer. Now, the mornings are brisk and dewy cool so that you need a jacket and layers, and the dusk and darkness of night falls sooner and sooner. Crunchy leaves are littering the ground, and the geese are already here on their way to apparently California?

Since Picnic House has opened, it has become a regular stop every 2 weeks or so. Most of time on the way home, F will grab my favorite Nutty Brown Rice Salad, a mix of crunchy brown rice and roasted cauliflower, carrots, turnips & sweet peas in a roasted hazelnut vinaigrette, while he rotates through the salads himself depending on his mood. It’s a huge salad- enough for two meals on its own. After a stop at Benessere Oils and Vinegars store (where I cannot resist, even though I already know the specific flavor infused olive oil I want, to taste 4 other olive oils or balsamic vinegars), we met up to actually eat there among the charm.

With the cool breeze rustling the leaves around the South Park Blocks, soup and a sandwich sounded like just what we needed for some warm comfort. The summer corn and sweet pea soups have been replaced, although this being Oregon full of tall shady trees and rain making fungus plentiful all year ’round, the wild mushroom soup is still on the menu. He had the roasted tomato soup topped with basil cream and fresh oregano, not pictured. Meanwhile, I went with the spiced pumpkin soup, topped with cranberry cream and chipotle peppita seeds.

The dinner entree is listed as “Soup and Grilled Cheese” entree… but which bonus surprise! comes with a small salad too. The spiced pumpkin soup was very mild in terms of seasoning, presenting mostly soft creaminess as you would expect from any cousin squash soup. The cranberry cream and chipotle peppita seeds gave it some interesting depth of a bit of tart and crunch here or there. With the doughy melty grilled cheese, it was a little too much, so I had the soup and sandwich separately while taking bites of the arugula salad (along with gorgonzola bits and candied pecans) to cut through that richness. F had no problem dipping his grilled cheese into his roasted tomato soup though.

Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich

Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich

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