A Look at Muselet Portland

Muselet has closed

In the South Waterfront, a restaurant named Muselet (a muselet is the wire that holds the cork and that you twist off to open a Champagne bottle – it’s pronounced “Muse-LAY”) opened in May last year, and has been a hidden dining destination gem. I felt like it was my duty to share this secret with you.

While Muselet may or may not be new to you, it has already racked up many awards by those who are in the know. It is listed on OpenTable’s online reservation site by diners as among the Top 10 Best Overall Restaurants in Portland as well as Top 10 Best Service in Portland and Top 10 Best Ambiance in Portland. You know they are serious about wine as soon as you walk through the front door and see this gorgeous light fixture and all those wine glasses all lined up for service that night…
Muselet Portland

And then there’s this:

Muselet Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile
Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile

When I first saw the above dish of Foie gras terrine, apple, salted brown butter, ginger tuile get set down, I wondered if it was dessert, it was plated so beautifully. But then when I took that bite and got all those flavors… Well, it’s still wonderful enough for dessert in its decadence and creamy texture that brings together rich savory with a hint of sweet.  I loved the additional textures bringing an extra level to this dish. In fact it’s actually on the dessert menu too, not just the dinner menu. It’s so rich, and so perfect with a flight of sparkling… You will feel like a million bucks.

Meanwhile, the #1 reason to rush down to Muselet ASAP right now – RIGHT NOW – is the Porridge with warm yolk, trout roe, and chive. Ron recommends pairing it with options such as Alsatian Single Vineyard Riesling, Domain Picq Single Vineyard Chablis from Bussieres in Burgundy, or Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximenez Blanc from Mendoza, Argentina. All sounds like win to me.
Muselet Porridge with warm yolk, trout roe, chive

As soon as I saw porridge on the menu I thought “how ballsy, they are offering porridge as a restaurant dish”. But those who have experienced know it’s a home run and a must not miss dish.  It’s a striking marriage of Muselet Owner Ron Acierto’s nostalgia for his Filipino roots of bone-warming heartiness and Executive Chef Greg Zanotti’s take of modern and eclectic, combining classic technique and progressive preparation with art of plating.

But, it’s only available for a short period of time – Chef Greg warns he’ll pull it off from the menu as soon as the weather is better because it’s too rich for the sun. So hurry in while it’s on the menu right now.

Not only that, for the month of March 2016 only for Portland Dining Month, they are offering a jaw dropping dinner option for the $29 – but instead of 3 courses you get 6 dishes! You can also add wine pairings for your courses for an additional $25. Their Portland Dining Month menu just for March includes

  • steelhead beet, brassicas, orange
  • pear burrata, kale, arugula, pecan-pistou
    Muselet Portland's pear burrata, kale, arugula, pecan-pistou "Muselet
  • bread alex’s parker house rolls, house cultured butter, maldon
  • charcuterie chicken liver mousse, cotechino, mustard, pickles
  • beets feta, yogurt, fermented garlic
    Muselet Beets with feta, yogurt, fermented garlic
  • pork coppa wild onion, hop aioli, leek fondue

I tell you, that list of six dishes for that price is a heist you should check out. But come hungry, and even with the Portland Dining Month menu, you should get that porridge while it’s in season. Somehow, even though you are getting six shared courses for the bargain price of $29, I think you will rise to the challenge of eating that porridge after you try your first comforting spoonful.

And, somehow still also save room for dessert: oh, this gorgetous, fun dessert. Everyone will jealously turn and wonder what you are enjoying, and they SHOULD be jealous of this Goat’s Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta. This dessert is also just simply known as Bubbles. Ron explains the dish was invented because he “In the beginning, I asked Greg to create a dessert that was quirky, delicious and would make guests smile. This one is like fireworks for your sweet tooth. It’s funny, the recipe is running in a future ‘1859’ magazine issue… it calls for ‘a small aquarium pump.’”
Muselet Bubbles Dessert of Dessert of Goat's Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta Muselet Bubbles Dessert of Dessert of Goat's Milk Custard with streusel, wild blackberry, and cajeta
A look when first placed on the table and basically 60 seconds later after the first photo was taken under the bubbles….

If you return after Portland Dining Month, besides the porridge and Bubbles dessert (and perhaps the foie gras either as appetizer or dessert…), you might consider splurging on the Wagyu Culotte with short rib and mushroom duxelle. This dish is perfectly cooked meat butter, tender without being too fatty. Paired by Ron with 2007 Hawk’s View Cellars Pinot Noir, the pairing is fit for royalty – seriously it wouldn’t look out of place as the dinner plate while in a ballgown and wearing diamonds.
Muselet Wagyu Culotte with short rib, mushroom duxelle

There are multiple options in Portland for oyster, but Muselet sets apart their oyster dish with its half a dozen shigoku with blood orange mignonette that you can enjoy with champagne or sparkling – such as Maysara Pinot Noir Brut Rose. Little trivia: Muselet was the first to pour Maysara Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rose in the area, and the wine is only available at the winery for their wedding events.
There are multiple options in Portland for oyster, but Muselet stands out with its Half a dozen shigoku with blood orange mignonette that you can enjoy with champagne or sparkling - such as Maysara Pinot Noir Brut Rose (Muselet was the first to pour Maysara Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rose in the area, and the wine is only available at the winery for their wedding events)

Definitely get a sparkling wine when you visit – or any wine. Wines are a huge draw to visit Muselet, since it is listed as one of Wine Enthusiast’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants in America for 2015, is one of the Oregon Wine A-List Award winners 2016 and is rated on OpenTable’s online reservation site by diners as among the Top 10 Most Notable Wine Lists for Portland / Oregon.

The Muselet wine list features 50+ Champagne (small production ‘grower’ wines) and sparkling wines, local urban wineries, and many Oregon Pinot Noirs. They offer a rotating selection of over 30 wines by the glass and more than 300 by the bottle, as well as numerous wine flights. Any wine by the glass can also be ordered as half glass, so you could make your own flight or ask Ron to pair with whatever you’d like.
Flight of sparkling wine, one of two flights you can choose from at Muselet

Ron has been developing friendships with winemakers and producers in the Willamette Valley since 2004, and expanded during his past experience managing restaurants with relationships with wine sales reps, importers and distributors.

“The key for me is to truly understand their vision and passion, and to show them the respect I have for their product. I get really excited and I love introducing guests to wines that have been made with passion, where the winemakers are caught up in the romance of their craft. It’s been fun to get to know the winemaking sons and daughters of the ‘Papas of Pinot’ who started it all.” says Ron.

The payoff for you as the customer is access to some wines that are exclusive just to Muselet, or that somehow Ron found that are local and super small that you might not find them anywhere else.

Domaine Drouhin only started making Pinot Noir Rose for their tasting room in 2010. Muselet owner Ron Acierto was able to acquire a few cases of their first Roses for Jory. Because he nurtured a relationship, he is also currently the only restaurant in Portland to serve their 2014 Rose. Their production is so small, their distributor is only able to place it selectively because there is not enough wine for a public release.There are only 2 cases left of the 2014 and it is only available at Muselet.
Domaine Drouhin only started making Pinot Noir Rose for their tasting room in 2010. Their production is so small, their distributor is only able to place it selectively because there is not enough wine for a public release. There are only 2 cases left of the 2014 and it is only available at Muselet.

In fact, at Muselet they hold weekly complimentary no purchase necessary wine tasting series in their lounge every Saturday from 5 – 6:30 PM.  A winery expert will be on hand during every tasting to answer questions about each wine. The featured wines will be available for guests to purchase by the glass to enjoy at the bar, purchase a bottle to take home, or can be enjoyed as a custom wine pairing with their meal. The current upcoming schedule includes

  • March 26 Fullerton Wines: Distinctive Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
  • April 2 Owen Roe: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Oregon Pinot Noir, Washington Red.
  • April 9 Le Cadeau | Exclusively estate grown Oregon Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay
    Aubichon Wines | Oregon Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay
  • April 23 Ian Burrows of Consulon Wines | pouring wines from Boulay Wine Company, Swick Wines, and Guillén Family Wines
  • April 30 Jackalope Wines | Craft Nortwest Pinot Noir, Viognier, and Cabernet Franc
    Helioterra | Pinot Noir, Mourvédre, Pinot Blanc, Syrah, Arneis, Melon de Bourgogne, Rosé of Pinot Noir, and Riesling
  • The schedule will continually be updated and can be found at Muselet’s website

Ron explains “We like to think of ourselves as the ‘concierge of the Oregon wine country.’ We are able to customize wine pairing perfectly for every dish, plus provide some unknown wine varietals for non-traditional wine pairings. Imagine, instead of having to choose one or two bottles of wine for a meal, you can have a small pour of the wine that perfectly complements your dish.”

Here’s a look at a few other dishes on the current menu, which will change seasonally:

  • Beef tartare remoulade, dulse, vinegar chip (part of their bar/soirée menu which is what they have dubbed happy hour, available in the bar/lounge only)
  • Mille Fuille with creme, dulse, smoked cod
  • Cured Hamachi, pea, hibiscus, avocado. I marveled at every bite of that dehydrated yuzu (tofu skin) with pea in how it was a perfect addition of subtle flavor and great texture to go with that hamachi – I even was trying to separate it from that photogenic hibiscus sauce to try to focus on the perfect hamachi and yuzu pea combo.
  • Turnip with beurre monte, pickled shallot, trout roe, sake lees
  • Sunchoke with mole poblano, persian cress
  • Scallop with pork rind and red eye gravy
    Muselet Beef tartare remoulade, dulse, vinegar chip Muselet Potato Mille Fuille with creme, dulse, smoked cod Muselet Cured Hamachi, pea, hibiscus, avocado Muselet Turnip with beurre monte, pickled shallot, trout roe, sake lees Muselet Sunchoke with mole poblano, persian cress Muselet Scallop with pork rind and red eye gravy

So I think you’ve gotten the gist here: spectacular food and wine. But did you notice I mentioned feeling like a million bucks, or feeling like royalty too? That’s because the biggest impression I had from Muselet is white glove service without the formality but all the elegance and class. Ron is incredibly enthusiastic about the dining experience, and he knows it includes what is on your plate and in your glass, but also beyond that in how you are treated from start to finish.

The people at Muselet are dedicated to making each guest feel like a VIP, and genuinely want to welcome you the moment you step in, take care of you with an eye on every detail, and make sure you know you are valued and that you leave happy. You’ll feel like you had a high class dinner but everything is approachable and without the matching high class price tag. In a city where service is often casual, it’s feels so special to be pampered like at Muselet.

Which of these dishes at Muselet is attracting your eye?

Muselet Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Disclosure: I attended a complimentary shared blogger meal, but I also returned on my own and on my own dime. I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

Signature

Marukin Ramen

Today marks the expanded soft opening of Marukin Ramen, at least at their initial location at 609 SE Ankeny. A second location is in the works at Pine Street Market. For their soft opening so far they’ve only been doing lunch service with one ramen type, but starting today their hours are 11AM  – 3PM Monday-Friday and 3PM  – 9PM Saturday-Sunday and they will offer a few select ramen choices each day. You can see the selection each day on their website. Then, on April 1st is their official opening to expand their hours and offer the full menu.

Marukin Ramen is a ramen chain in Japan, and this is their first US location . They have even imported from Japan their chef and a few staff to ensure they are authentic. Marukin Ramen’s location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light.

Marukin Ramen's location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light. Marukin Ramen's location at 609 SE Ankeny includes roll up garage door and lots of windows to let in the light.

They are offering 6 kinds of ramen, all priced at $10.
Marukin Ramen is offering multiple kinds of ramen

All the ramen utilizes their homemade ramen noodles that are made fresh every day and that are in the Hakata style, which are thin and long.  Hakata is in Fukuoka, Japan – and ramen Hakata style is one of the 3 most popular types of ramen (the big three styles are Tokyo, Sapporo and Hakata ramen).

At Marukin you can choose from among

  1. Tokyo Shoyu, clear broth made with chicken and Carlton Farms pork bones with shoyu (a special soy sauce). Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, roasted onions, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. For someone who can have meat, this is probably the lightest broth – the only one lighter is the vegan one (#6 on this list). Shoyu is the most popular and common ramen type.
    Marukin Ramen, Tokyo Shoyu, clear broth made with chicken and Carlton Farms pork bones with shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, roasted onions, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed.
  2. Marukin Paitan, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Then for your Marukin ramen flavor (ramen = broth + flavor seasoning), additionally you must choose either shio (salt) or shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. I love how creamy this is and it’s one of my favorites in the line up.
    Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan.
  3. Tonkotsu Shoyu is a creamy Carlton Farms pork bone based soup flavored with shoyu. Tonkotsu involves boiling the pork bones for a really long time to extract all the fatty richness, and it’s very common to see creamy tonkotsu pork broths flavored with shoyu. Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. Hakata style ramen usually is a combo of the Hakata style noodles made and served here with Tonkotsu broth.
    Marukin Ramen, Tonkotsu Shoyu is a creamy Carlton Farms pork bone based soup flavored with shoyu.
  4. Marukin Tonkotsu Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen (#2 above). Topped with greens, menma-seasoned bamboo shoots, chashu roasted pork, leeks, green onions, soft boiled egg, nori seaweed. This is another one of my favorites – but let me clearly warn you do not wear any light colored clothing when eating this because you will get splashes of red on you!
    Marukin Ramen, Marukin Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen with paitan Marukin Ramen, Marukin Red is a spicy version of the Marukin ramen with paitan
  5. Miso uses a chicken and Carlton Farms pork bone broth base and miso. Miso is a fermented soybean paste, so it offers an extra depth of earthy flavor beyond the richness you would experience with Paitan or Tonkatsu broth. Topped with greens, marinated shredded Carlton Farms pork, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, roasted onions, leeks, green onions.
    Marukin Ramen, their Miso Ramen uses a chicken and Carlton Farms pork bone broth base and miso. Topped with greens, marinated shredded Carlton Farms pork, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, roasted onions, leeks, green onions.
  6. Marukin Vegan uses a vegetable and either Tonyu a Ota Tofu soy milk based broth or Shoyu a shoyu tare based broth, made with onions, garlic, shitake mushrooms, and kombu (a kind of kelp). Topped with greens, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, roasted tomato, fried tofu, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, leeks, green onions. This is the best vegan tofu in Portland.
    Marukin Ramen, Marukin Vegan uses a vegetable and Ota Tofu soy milk based broth made of onions, garlic, shitake mushrooms, and kombu (a kind of kelp). Topped with greens, nappa cabbage, bean sprouts, roasted tomato, fried tofu, shitake, maitake and shimeji mushrooms, leeks, green onions.

Ramen is eaten with chopsticks and a spoon is often provided for slurping some of the soup. Mix up all the items in your bowl except the nori – you can leave it sticking out to give you some crunchy to have between slurps. I leave the chashu usually towards the end to eat so it can help flavor the broth for a while.

Ramen noodles get soggy quickly because they start to absorb the soup and they continue to cook in the broth, so everything should be eaten immediately after they are served and finished in about 5 minutes or so while the noodles are still firm.
Marukin Ramen, the famous Marukin broth uses a unique, rich, creamy chicken based broth also known as paitan. Then for your Marukin ramen flavoyou must choose either shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce).

At the end, it’s fine to pick up the bowl to drink the soup directly from the bowl – you do not need to drink the whole bowl to be polite, though it is considered a compliment to the chef.
Marukin Ramen

They don’t offer extra toppings you can order yet – it sounds like that will be something that will be added to the menu later after they get used to regular service of their menu. There are some secret homemade chili oil you can supposedly ask for as well. To start they want you to enjoy the flavors and experience it as is before customizing it.

Ramen can be a one dish meal, but there are side dishes to enjoy if you don’t want ramen, or in addition to your ramen. For official side dishes,  there are options such as Pan fried Carlton Farms Gyoza, Chicken Karaage (Japanese style fried chicken served with a little mustard), Ebi Tiger deep fried shrimp karaage style, and onigiri. I definitely will report back after trying the onigiri, which was a big staple snack during my trip to Japan to carry these rice balls in our bags on hikes.
Marukin Ramen, Pan fried Carlton Farms Gyoza Marukin Ramen, Chicken Karaage (Japanese style fried chicken served with a little mustard) Marukin Ramen, Ebi Tiger deep fried shrimp karaage style

So this isn’t quite the Ramen Museum amount of ramen styles to try that I had in Japan, but it is the best chance in Portland now to try a variety of styles of ramen. I admire that they are carefully expanding their menu as they go to not sacrifice on quality and service, and hope you give them a try and be kind about their growing into their rhythm as they are so new. You can probably expect lines, just like ramen shops that are good I’m Japan –  keep in mind that ramen is eaten relatively quickly so there should be fast turnover of seats too. The unspoken rule of ramen shops is to not linger and get your ramen fix done and leave –  sort of like eating fast food.

Which ramen do you think you want to try?

Marukin Ramen Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Disclosure: I attended a media preview but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

Signature

Farm Spirit Vegan Restaurant

I visited Farm Spirit Vegan Restaurant last year as part of my September Dinner celebrating my wedding anniversary with F. Then earlier this month we went for a second visit to see what magic they could pull in terms of their artistic presentation and locally sourced all completely vegan celebration of flavors during a winter season.
Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland

Also, we were celebrating a belated Valentine’s and dating anniversary. I don’t see why once you get married you wouldn’t celebrate both the dating anniversary and wedding anniversary, right? For Valentine’s we stayed in on the actual day and made fondue at home because it’s just too crowded and it’s more expensive to dine out – so we make this “Valentine’s Date Night” on a day after the actual holiday instead.
Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland

Although Farm Spirit has a set spot that they use, they operate as a pop up restaurant where you purchase tickets to your dinner before you go from their website for either Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, or Saturday evening  – there is only one seating per day. Your online reservation will be to one of their Tasting Menu chef’s choice dinner courses for $75. The tickets prices listed already include a gratuity, so after paying for your reservation you only need to show up and enjoy! The courses are all vegan, and by request can be prepared gluten free too with advance notice. Some dishes do contain nuts.

Additionally, you can choose to buy a supplement of a beverage pairing of 6 total glasses to go with dinner that is either non-alcoholic ($27) or wine pairings($38). You can purchase this when you make your dinner reservations, or wait until you arrive and see the menu for the evening to choose, or purchase each glass a la carte.
Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland

The logistics of service will change in April. They plan to have more seatings per night, starting at 5:15pm and going as late as 8:30pm by not seating all their 14 seats at once. When I return again to see their spring line up I’ll have to let you know how that is!

Even when they change their seatings, I expect they will continue their gorgeous presentation, vigilance to fine dining service with changing out of silverware and attentiveness to filling your beverage and making sure you want for nothing. But there’s no pretense here, In fact it is the exact opposite –  still very laid back as they might sing or dance a little to the music streaming, and they don’t mind and in fact encourage if you use your hands to eat, lick the sauce from the plate, and maybe when serving dessert serve themself a little bit of ice cream too.

When you arrive, you will look for your seats labeled with your last name,  all the seats are part of a chef’s counter so you can see them plating the next courses and speak freely with them on how they were inspired or created their dish.
Farm Spirit - a February dinner at their location at 1414 SE Morrison St, Portland

Then, the parade of colors begins… we were welcomed first with warm homemade bread with local olive oil as we waited for the other guests to arrive. Did you know you can get locally made olive oil in Portland from Oregon Olive Mill? At the end of the meal, we saw Chef Tim preparing the rolls for the dinner the next evening as our dinner service was ending so they would have time to rise – so your bread truly is made fresh that day that you are served it.
Greeted with homemade warm bread when seated at Farm Spirit while waiting for the rest of the guests to arrive at the single seating that evening. This will change in April when they go to multiple seatings, but maybe the bread will still be the welcome dish! Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, Chef Tim preparning the homemade rolls to rise for tomorrow's dinner

Head Chef Aaron Adams introduces everyone on the Farm Spirit staff we’ll be seeing this night, including himself, Chef Ricardo, Chef Tim, and Chef Taylor.
February 2016 Farm Spirit Dinner night - head Chef Aaron Adams introduces everyone on the Farm Spiritstaff we'll be seeing this night, including himself, Chef Ricardo, Chef Tim, and Chef Taylor The motley crew of Farm Spirit PDX - head Chef Aaron Adams introduces everyone on the Farm Spiritstaff we'll be seeing this night, including himself, Chef Ricardo, Chef Taylor, and Chef Tim (left to right) The motley crew of Farm Spirit PDX - head Chef Aaron Adams introduces everyone on the Farm Spiritstaff we'll be seeing this night, including himself, Chef Ricardo, Chef Taylor, and Chef Tim (left to right)

Now the dinner courses:

We selected the Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing, where there is one glass paired with every 2-3 courses. That started with Lemon and Thyme Kefir.
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Lemon and Thyme Kefir Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Lemon and Thyme Kefir

Bouquet with filbert yogurt to snack, a dish we were encouraged to eat with our hands by holding the little bouquet and dipping it by not being provided silverware. I wiped the yogurt off the plate with my fingers til nothing was left.
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Bouquet with filbert yogurt to snack

As always, it’s fascinating watching the plating magic happen and their exquisite eye to detail – and the tease of seeing the next dish be created before your eyes and aromas of the next course after that being prepared!
Farm Spirit - careful plating that you can watch and you can talk to the chefs with questions as you sit at a chef's counter Farm Spirit - careful plating that you can watch and you can talk to the chefs with questions as you sit at a chef's counter

Warm smoked beets and preserved wild blackberries with fir, petite greens, and buckwheat
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Warm smoked beets and preserved wild blackberries with fir, petite greens, and buckwheat Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Warm smoked beets and preserved wild blackberries with fir, petite greens, and buckwheat

The next beverage pouring was Anise spiced Apple Juice
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Anise spiced Apple Juice Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Anise spiced Apple Juice

Arugula raab, smoked walnut milk, raw croutons, herb stems, and itty bitty kale chips
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Arugula raab, smoked walnut milk, raw croutons, herb stems, and itty bitty kale chips Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Arugula raab, smoked walnut milk, raw croutons, herb stems, and itty bitty kale chips

We were all wiping the plate clean of this rich next dish of Smoked potato puree, charred leeks, potato chips, ash, and black shallot – porcini jus, I was so impressed how melt in your mouth and flavorful this is without having to resort to the normal butter and cream or lots of garlic which are the usual supporting players.
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Smoked potato puree, charred leeks, potato chips, ash, and black shallot - porcini jus Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Smoked potato puree, charred leeks, potato chips, ash, and black shallot - porcini jus

Swiss chard stuffed like ravioli with cultured filbert, vegetal kvass, and parsley oil. This beauty took a while to compose, and it was fascinating how they sealed those pretty little leaves into “ravioli”. It’s dishes like this that show off how just because food is vegan doesn’t mean it can’t be bold without having to resort to a lot of spices – here fermentation to produce the kvass (a fermented liquid).
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Swiss chard stuffed like ravioli with cultured filbert, vegetal kvass, and parsley oil Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Swiss chard stuffed like ravioli with cultured filbert, vegetal kvass, and parsley oil

Next up for the drink pairing on the housemade non alcoholic side was Ginger Beer
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Ginger Beer Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Ginger Beer

When we saw the carrot course of Roasted carrots with burdock puree and herbs coming up F and I were bracing ourselves because it was our least favorite dish from our last dinner in September, but this time we really enjoyed it – the herbal flavor was dialed back from our initial experience.
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Roasted carrots with burdock puree and herbs Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Roasted carrots with burdock puree and herbs

Next Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing – Earl Grey Kombucha
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Earl Grey Kombucha

Sunchoke (pureed flesh and crispy skins), watercress pudding and fermented sunflower seed puree was my least favorite of the night, if I had to choose from. I’ve enjoyed many a crispy sunchoke whether it be fried or baked and these didn’t measure up to the memory of those. I didn’t mind the watercress or the sunflower puree – but the sunchoke didn’t seem to get elevated in any way I could discern, which seemed like a missed opportunity when they were hitting it out of the ballpark with all the other dishes.
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Sunchoke pureed flesh and crispy skins, watercress pudding and fermented sunflower seed puree Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Sunchoke (pureed flesh and crispy skins, watercress pudding and fermented sunflower seed puree

Wild winter shroom, parsnip puree, turnip rapini, black garlic, and texture of roots
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Wild winter shroom, parsnip puree, turnip rapini, black garlic, and texture of roots

The most pretty beverage of the evening, Lingonberry Sage Rejuvelac
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Lingonberry Sage Rejuvelac

At first, F saw how the little bruschetta like next course featuring pickled red onion and mustard seed sounded plain, and that as a non-onion lover he wouldn’t enjoy it. Thankfully, when we actually tried the course of Tim’s Volkornbrot with puree of filbers soured in rejuvelac, pickled red onion, and mustard seed, my hunch that Chef Tim’s homemade Volkornbrot bread would easily be able to stand up to such strong sounding flavors proved to be right. If I had to go on a diet of just bread and water, I would definitely pick Volkornbrot because it’s so hearty and filling packed with grains and seeds that’s healthy but also packed with chewy texture and flavors. If you haven’t had it before, I recommend visiting one of my favorite artisan bakeries in town, Fressen that specializes in German style bread. Anyway, when it comes to vegan bread though Tim’s Volkornbrot is the best vegan bread period I’ve ever had.
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Tim's Volkornbrot with puree of filbers soured in rejuvelac, pickled red onion, and mustard seed Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is Tim's Volkornbrot with puree of filbers soured in rejuvelac

Now we are getting to the last and final home stretch, the 2 dessert courses, and the final housemade beverage pairing of Sarsaparilla Kefir
Farm Spirit Non Alcoholic Housemade Beverage Pairing - Sarsaparilla Kefir

Fred’s favorite dessert of the two dessert courses was this Chewy and soft apple with chestnut and rosemary
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is the one of two final courses of dessert, here A chewy and soft apple with chestnut and rosemary Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is the one of two final courses of dessert, here A chewy and soft apple with chestnut and rosemary

However I throw my vote to possibly the healthiest dessert I’ve ever enjoyed, the Pumpkin seed ice cream, butternut, caramel, pumpkin seed milk, and granola
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is the last course and our 2nd dessert, here Pumpkin seed ice cream, butternut, caramel, pumpkin seed milk, and granola Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, this is the last course and our 2nd dessert, here Pumpkin seed ice cream, butternut, caramel, pumpkin seed milk, and granola

At the end of the meal, Chef Ricardo takes your order for final beverage service to end the meal (included with the meal so regardless of whether you had any wine or housemade beverage pairing). Thoughtfully, you get 4 choices, 2 coffees (caffeinated and decaffeinated, and you can get evaporated cane juice and/or hazelnut milk) or 2 teas (I went with the oolong here).
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, at the end you have choice of coffee or tea, and there are caffeinated and uncaffeinated options as well Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, at the end you have choice of coffee or tea, and there are caffeinated and uncaffeinated options as well

And sweetly, at the end they send you home with a little baked good to go that you can enjoy while thinking back on your wonderful meal during breakfast the next morning
Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, at the end they send you home with a little baked good to have for breakfast the next morning Farm Spirit Dinner in February 2016 - all vegan fine dining, at the end they send you home with a little baked good to have for breakfast the next morning

If you’re married, do you celebrate your dating anniversary? And whether you are independent or partnered, do any of the courses we had that night call out to you that you’d want to try?

 

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Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase

A photo recap of my first Nodoguro dinner for 2016 – they popped up in the back room of Renata on January 31 as they are transitioning into their space from where they were last year by Pastaworks to now sharing a space with Peter Cho as reported in Eater until they find a new home.
Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

This night was Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase where from 7 to 10ish I enjoyed a menu that included special orders from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal, California Abalone, wild aji from Nagasaki, Kohada from Kumamoto, Baby white shrimp, Wild Scallop from Miyagi, and Masaba from Toyama. 

Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

Here’s a look at what could appear before you at one of these amazing dinners – pay attention to when they list as they sell out quickly from the Nodoguro website as soon as tickets go on sale. This is the best sushi and sashimi experience in Portland.

  1. Starter of oysters
    Oysters to start the 19 course dinner of Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  2. Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura (salmon eggs). Somen is noodles so in this case he sliced the Scallop into Noodle like pieces. I’m not afraid to admit I slurped every last drop from the dish.
    Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura, Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura, Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  3. New Zealand Sea Bream: one thing I love about sashimi are noticing these little details about the beauty of the fish
    New Zealand Sea Bream fro Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 New Zealand Sea Bream from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  4. Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat
    Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  5. Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin (uni)
    Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  6. Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo. I always love presentations in the shell
    Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  7. Tai with yuzu and thyme
    Tai from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Tai from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  8. Aji
    Aji from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Aji from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  9. There was a Wild Scallop here that I forgot to photograph I think, but I wrote the note “Hokkaido Scallop w aged soy and yuzu juice”
  10. Baby White Shrimp
    Baby White Shrimp from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  11. Geoduck giant clam from Washington, with a touch of yuzu and Jacobsen Sea Salt
    Geoduck giant clam from Washington, with a touch of yuzu and Jacobsen Sea Salt at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  12. Octopus
    Octopus from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Octopus Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  13. Uni and Crab
    Uni ad Crab Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  14. Ikura on rice
    Ikura on rice at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  15. Shimmery Kohada
    Kohada from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Kohada at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  16. Handroll
    Handroll from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Handroll from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  17. Masaba. Can you tell I thought this was beautiful?
    Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  18. Unagi
    Unagi from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  19. The last course is by your request –  some went for Oysters, I prefer ending with sashimi and Ryan created this lovely medley
    Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

It might be a little time before my next Nodoguro theme dinner (you can see other Nodoguro themed dinner recaps here) since my next big dinners are the Chef’s Week PDX big 30 course West Coast 2016 dinner at Departure, of which Ryan Roadhouse is one of the 30 chefs each contributing a course to a marathon dinner.

Next week is also Dumpling Week 2016, and I am going to my first Meadowlark supper club dinner. Then it might be time for a little healthy eating to clean my system out before Portland Dining Month in March.

What are you looking forward to eating in February? Do you eat sushi/sashimi, and have a favorite sushi or sashimi?

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Portland Xurros at 180

Tomorrow, Friday January 29, Portland will have a new dessert sensation beyond the cupcakes, macaroons, experimental ice creams and mini-donuts we’ve already been loving. Welcome the Spanish churros, or using the Catalan spelling of xurros, at the new 180, opening tomorrow. Plus, they are offering for their Grand Open free xurros from 8 AM – 4 PM while supplies last!

I was invited to a sneak peek yesterday at this newest venture, a partnership with Chefs Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin who have teamed together to bring their memories from Spain to us in Portland. I’m crushing on the new best in Portland xurros and Chocolate hard. Step into 180 and Xurroland at 2218 NE Broadway…
Step into 180 and Xurroland by Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin, Portland's new xurreria

First of all, these are not the churros you have had at the fair, amusement park, or from a cart. There are many styles of churros, including versions in Latin American and Mexico, but this one comes from Barcelona, the capital city of Catalonia region of Spain. I can see why they call these xurros instead (yes, the x is still pronounced ch) to help differentiate them.

At Portland’s first authentic xurreria, 180 uses an impressive stainless steel xurro and fritters making machine from Spain. Jose and David traveled last year to Spain conducting xurro research, including pointers and tips from the founder of the xurro machine company that’s only been making xurros since oh, 1958. So some experience and expertise it seems. The dough is fried at 180 degrees C, thus the name for this xurreria.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring

At the sneak peek, Jose Chesa still looked mesmerized by its magic as he stirred the xurro dough into the fried addictive snacks that were disappearing so quickly. I think part of it may be the wonder of being able to successfully recreate the food memory he’s trying to pass on to us in Portland.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on
Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on at the magic xurro machine

The finished bites are much lighter than what you probably have experienced in your churro history. These new Portland xurros are crispy but not hard, airy and not oily – they reminded me of the perfect extra crispy french fries that I seek out, but sweet thanks to a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar that doesn’t go overboard into sticky sweet. The dusting of the Xurro isn’t as strong in cinnamon as the common churros. Note: the xurros that will be served here are normally shaped like a ring, but they were broken into sample size of mini tube shapes at the sneak peak. You won’t be able to just eat one. Good thing the xurros come in 3 ($3.75), 6 ($5.75), or 12 ($10.75).
Portland Xurros from 180, usually served in a ring but in little tubes for dipping for our sneak peak. Perfectly crispy, not oily, dusted with just the right amount of cinnamon and sugar.

The plus of the tube shape is that they are perfect for dipping. You can dip them in one (or all) of the housemade dipping sauces they offer for your Portland xurros: 2 ounces for $2 of either lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl. You can also additionally order xocolata, which you can both dip your xurro in and sip as a drinking chocolate from Cocanu at 4 ounces for $4. The children’s faces with a little chocolate smear from the xocolata is pretty damn adorable.
Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Xocolata, Chocolate at 180 that you can dip your xurro, or just sip as drinking chocolate

Or for full chocolate coverage on every single millimeter of the Xurro, get them dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you at $1.75 each as Xurros Banados.
At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados

Also available here are Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with your choice of Creme Catalana (a burnt custard cream similar to Creme Brulee), Dulce de Leche (shown below that tastes like an upgraded creme caramel), or Xoco Cream (a chocolate cream) at $3 for 2 pieces. Holy moly.
180's Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with Creme Catalana, Dulce de Leche, or Xoco Cream at 180 PDX. This is with Dulce Leche

And like an upgrade on a stuffed croissant enters the Xuixo, a pastry that is stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Who needs a cronut when you can have this $6 delicacy? Only a limited quantity is made each day.
Christina Baez, one of the partners of 180, modeling a Xuxo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar Xuixos from 180 PDX. Xuxo is a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 PDX Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Available at 180 PDX

Yes, it’s a bit messy and sticks to your fingers and flaky. But look at those luscious layers inside these sliced up xuixos that we sampled…
Jose Chesa passing out Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 A closer look at the layers inside the Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar- offered at 180

If you are looking for a little roasty slight bitterness to balance out the sweet here and also need a caffeine hit – especially if you can call this breakfast to start your day like they do in Barcelona – there is coffee here as well. Local Roasting Company provides the beans for Solo / Americano, Cortado, Bombon, Cappuccino, and Con Leche. All drinks are available iced, and you can also get housemade soy milk or housemade hazelnut milk.

What do you think of the xurreria, are the Portland xurros calling your name? What do you want to go with your Xurro?

Disclosure: I attended a media preview that provided samples and was complimentary, but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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