Arabian Nights Cafe

It may seem like a dine out a lot- and to be fair, I do. F and I are childfree, and he’s not only vegetarian, but a picky and healthy vegetarian. I’m just… not either of those. At least when we dine out.

When we’re home, our meals are usually very simple and repetitive, and we also often eat on our own because I want nothing to do with his cold black beans or lentil soup out of a can or Morningstar concoctions with BBQ sauce. Meanwhile he is uninterested in my sauteed spinach and rice plates or riffs on mac and cheese. Even though I love delicious food and pretty much eat/blog as a hobby and a way to spend my leisure time, F is not shy to admit that if he could stop doing 3 things, one of the top 3 would be eating! For me, things like having to sleep so many hours to be functional or going to the bathroom or having to wash my hair every 36 hours make that list… and I would never even think to put eating on that list.

There are several places though that we both really really enjoy and bring us together to bridge this divide on food. Arabian Nights Cafe, a less than 10 minute walk from our home, is one of those guilty pleasures we both share great affection for. If on the way home he comes in carrying a bag of take-out from Arabian Nights, even if it’s just a side of fries with that garlic sauce, I just can never resist. I’ll tell you now that it’s totally a divey hole in the wall. But we don’t care.

Every time we order, the pita bread is always piping hot and fresh out of the oven, and it’s so soft and poofy.
Arabian Nights Cafe fresh piping hot pitas

He always gets the same thing, because he is a huge creature of habit. He finds something he likes, he will become a regular at that location with that same dish. Here at Arabian Nights Cafe, it’s the Arabian Nights Mezza Platter, a combination plate of hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and tabouli. The baba ghannouj here is really incredible because of it’s smokiness. There are lots of times we don’t like the dolmades dish because the leaves are hard, but at Arabian Nights the chef marinates them an extra long time than usual, making them very soft.
Arabian Nights Mezza Platter, a combo of hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and tabouli Arabian Nights Mezza Platter, a combo of hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and tabouli Arabian Nights Mezza Platter, a combo of hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and tabouli

While F always gets pretty much the same thing at every Meditteranean restaurant (always hummus and falafel, and maybe baba ghannouj), I like exploring different foods. That’s why I like going to new places, and also ordering new dishes at the regular places. The one time I asked F to dine in at Arabian Nights, I decided to try the Arabian Nights Cafe entree of the Mixed Grill Supreme with three skewers of chicken, lamb and kafta kabob served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt.
Arabian Nights Cafe Mixed Grill Supreme entree of Three skewers of chicken, lamb and kafta kabob served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt. Arabian Nights Cafe Mixed Grill Supreme entree of Three skewers of chicken, lamb and kafta kabob served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt.

I couldn’t believe how much food there was on the plate. While the chef apologized he didn’t have any glass plates and had to serve me my food on a paper plate while F got the fancy plate, I thought it was homey and charming. And looking at those kabobs and mountains of rice, who’s looking at the plate itself? And, I was impressed that the lamb was tender and cooked perfectly medium for me and the kafta kabob was delicious also.

It clearly meant that my side order of Cheese Pie, a house dough that is used to make that doughy pita plus cheese spread on top, was clearly unnecessary to get me full, though it was super enjoyable.
Arabian Nights Cafe Cheese Pie, a house dough that is used to make the pita plus cheese spread.

The place is really a dinky and small. But I don’t judge – and would completely understand if on your visit you chose to get carry-out, which is what I think most people do given it’s in the PSU area in the South Park Blocks and it’s literally steps to a picnic in the park. Here’s an example of the carryout the Chicken Shawarma Platter with thinly sliced chicken over rice that is served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt. That’s like 2 servings there in that box with that single order.
Arabian Nights Cafe in Portland, carryout of the delicious Chicken Shawarma Platter with thinly sliced chicken over rice that is served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt Arabian Nights Cafe in Portland, carryout of the delicious Chicken Shawarma Platter with thinly sliced chicken over rice that is served with rice, small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt

The Lamb Shank, which I got as carry out, is big enough for two. The lamb is fall off the bone, and served with traditional bokhari rice along with small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt.
Arabian Nights Cafe in Portland Lamb Shank, lamb shank served with traditional and flavorful bokhari rice along with small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt Arabian Nights Cafe in Portland Lamb Shank, lamb shank served with traditional and flavorful bokhari rice along with small salad and a side of cucumber yogurt

My only disappointment is that the Arabian Nights Beef Shawarma Sandwich (thinly sliced beef rolled with tomatoes, parsley, pickles, onions and tahini sauce) is small. Though maybe this is actually an advantage so you can justify also getting a side of fries with that garlicky sauce. Yeah,  it totally rationalizes it. F knows when I have a crappie day and want to wallow at home the fries with that sauce always are a comfort to me.
Arabian Nights Beef Shawarma Gyro Sandwich - thinly sliced beef rolled with tomatoes, parsley, pickles, onions and tahini sauce Arabian Nights Beef Shawarma Gyro Sandwich - thinly sliced beef rolled with tomatoes, parsley, pickles, onions and tahini sauce

I support all small business owners – be it those beautifully designed restaurant with Northwest wood and maybe even white tablecloths,  those pop ups with multiple courses where you bring prepped food in Tupperware, or if you working out of a food cart, or those out of a little hole in the wall. Sure I love a restaurant and being served like I’m special,  but there’s something sorta luxurious about take-out or delivery food out of boxes and yes, paper plates and plastic utensils.

What is your little hole in the wall that you love by your home? What us your family regular take out joint?

Click to add a blog post for Arabian Nights on Zomato

Signature

Portland Penny Diner Happy Hour

I’ve been a fan of the breakfast/lunch at Portland Penny Diner for a while – see my post here – but they were only open 7 – 3 PM on weekdays. Curses! But now recently the PPD has extended their hours now to be open 4 – 11 PM midnight on Fri Sat), including a happy hour from 4 – 6 PM every day (Mon – Sat – they are closed Sunday). Yay! So here’s a look at the Portland Penny Diner Happy Hour and their evening menu.

The photos are from several visits, varying from a complimentary Open House event I attended where I was able to sample bites from the food and drink, as well as follow-up visits on my own dime.
Portland Penny Diner Portland Penny Diner is now open evening hours from 4-11 M-Th to midnight Fri Sat Portland Penny Diner is now open evening hours from 4-11 M-Th to midnight Fri Sat Portland Penny Diner is now open evening hours from 4-11 M-Th to midnight Fri Sat Portland Penny Diner is now open evening hours from 4-11 M-Th to midnight Fri Sat

With eight cocktails on tap, as well as two wine and four beer taps, Portland Penny Diner can satiate your thirst quickly. Barman Tony Gurdian has crafted a great list of balanced cocktails that he makes in small batches so they are always fresh and balanced (and are only $5 at happy hour!).
Portland Penny Diner sample of a draft cocktail by Barman Tony Gurdian Portland Penny Diner sample of a draft cocktail by Barman Tony Gurdian Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample cocktail on draft with Barman Tony Gurdian himself pouring the drafts Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample cocktail on draft with Barman Tony Gurdian himself pouring the drafts

There is also always a new daily punch just $5 all day every day until it’s out. One visit the punch was pisco, maraschino, darjeeling tea, lemon, oleo and prosecco.  The one I tried below was composed with Dickel White Whiskey, rum, Cointreau, lemon, oleo and Montucky lager.
Portland Penny Diner offers a Punch of the Day that's $5 until it runs out. Portland Penny Diner offers a Punch of the Day that's $5 until it runs out.

Don’t worry – those plastic cups are just free sample tastes at an Open House. Here they are compared to the actual size of the drinks I paid for later!
Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample cocktail on draft Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample cocktail on draft Portland Penny Diner cocktail on draft actual size Portland Penny Diner cocktail on draft actual size Portland Penny Diner cocktail on draft actual size Portland Penny Diner cocktail on draft actual size
I was most interested in a new section of the menu called Short Orders, which include are a shot with a paired item (another drink or food snack).

  • Whiskey & Beer Back
  • Tequila & Verdita. The idea of this was first created when Top Chef alums Chef Doug Adams and Chef Katsuji Tanabe collaborated at a dinner, and their bro love continues on with this Short Order menu item.
    Portland Penny Diner Short Order item of Tequila & Verdita. This was first created when Top Chef alums Chef Doug Adams and Chef Katsuji Tanabe collaborated at a dinner
  • Pisco & Grilled Pineapple with Espelette, Pisco is a bit like brancy and comes from South America, thus the pairing here. Espelette is the slightly spicy pepper you see on top of the grilled pineapple,
    Portland Penny Diner drinks - a Short Order (Pisco & Grilled Pineapple with Espelette)
  • Cachaca and Pickled Strawberry. Cachaca is akin to a Brazilian rum.
    Portland Penny Diner Short Order item of Cachaca and Pickled Strawberry

My food and drink adventure rule is always if I see something on the menu that I’ve never seen before or don’t usually see – that’s where the delicious adventure lies.

Portland Penny Diner Evening Food Menu is a collaboration between Vitaly Paley and Doug Adams includes a few soups and salads, including this tomato soup with crouton and basil (pictured is a sample that was passed at an Open House, not an actual full order).
Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample of the tomato soup with croutons and basil Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample of the tomato soup with croutons and basil

Then there are Fry Bread Tacos, varying from filled with house smoked pastrami, or soy braised pork belly, or my personal favorite the Hangtown Fry Taco with fried oysters, eggs, bacon and spicy mayo.
Portland Penny Diner tasting a sample food item, the House Smoked Pastrami Taco with russian dressing, swiss cheese, and sauerkraut
Sample of the House Smoked Pastrami Taco with russian dressing, swiss cheese, and sauerkraut and the full order of Hangtown Fry Taco with fried oysters, eggs, bacon and spicy mayo

For something a bit more familiar, there are single or double burgers with secret sauce and for vegetarians, a super flavorful Falafel Burger. The double burger (called the Deluxe Burger) is only $8 at happy hour (the regular PPD burger is $7 and not a HH special) so splurge on a double patty between 4-6. If you’d like, the burgers come on their own so order waffle fries, sweet potato fries… or Disco Fries (with gravy, pastrami, swiss, cheddar).
Portland Penny Diner's evening menu, super flavorful Falafel Burger feta, red onion, tzatziki, cucumber, tomato, iceberg, harissaPortland Penny Diner's evening menu, on happy hour get this Deluxe Burger with two patties, bacon, secret sauce, white onions, American cheese, iceberg lettuce, bread and butter pickles
Above you see sample of the and also the Falafel Burger with feta, red onion, tzatziki, cucumber, tomato, iceberg, harissa and the full Deluxe Burger with two patties, bacon, secret sauce, white onions, American cheese, iceberg lettuce, bread and butter pickles

More substantial PPD Plates include Buttermilk Fried Chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, Blackened Trout, or a Penny Pincher special that changes. I’ve seen the Penny Pincher vary from a Pork Taco Salad to Breakfast Chicken Hash, or check the chalkboard.

Who knows, you may run into either or both of these celebrity chefs (you see chef Douggie making his chicken back there? Another time chef Vitaly Paley was just sitting outside having a beer!). For photos of some of the chicken or trout plates, visit my blogger friend Marlynn at Urban Bliss Life and see her post on Portland Penny Diner!
Portland Penny Diner is a collaboration with chef/owner Vitaly Paley and executive chef Doug Adams (who you see on the right, making his fried chicken)
Portland Penny Diner Fried Chicken, from Executive Chef Doug Adams (this is a sample, not the actual plate you get from ordering) Portland Penny Diner Fried Chicken, from Executive Chef Doug Adams (this is a sample, not the actual plate you get from ordering)
Above Portland Penny Diner Fried Chicken, from Executive Chef Doug Adams (this is a sample, not the actual plate you get from ordering as that comes with mashed potatoes and gravy)

If you get a chance to try Portland Penny Diner, definitely get a fry taco, and maybe share the fried chicken, and try a draft cocktail or a short order!
Portland Penny Diner Evening Menu includes a few soups and salads, Fry Bread Tacos (varying from filled with house smoked pastrami and soy braised pork belly to fried oysters with eggs and bacon) to burgers with secret sauce and for vegetarians, a super flavorful Falafel Burger. More substantial PPD Plates include buttermilk fried chicken, blackened trout, or a Penny Pincher special. Portland Penny Diner Deluxe Burger with two patties, bacon, secret sauce, white onions, American cheese, iceberg lettuce, bread and butter pickles Portland Penny Diner drinks - cocktail on draft and a Short Order (Pisco & Grilled Pineapple with Espelette)

 

Have you ever had fry bread, or a fry bread taco? What do you think of the offerings of Portland Penny Diner, have you checked out the evening hours yet?

Click to add a blog post for Portland Penny Diner on Zomato

Disclosure: Although many of the sample drinks and dishes you have seen were from an “open house” they had their first week or so of their evening hours that was open to media and the public, I returned other times and paid for full cocktails and these Short Orders as my own drink adventure.

Signature

Renata – First Look

You may have seen that yesterday that the Oregonian, besides publishing a huge list of Portland’s 101 Best Restaurants, also named the 3 top restaurant awards for 2015. They dubbed Xico Cuisine of the Year, and Kachka the 2015 Rising Star Restaurant. And then, in a ballsy and perhaps purposely controversial move (and therefore generating lots of buzz and chatter and readership, which probably is half the point of the article anyway rather than just providing information), named 2015 Restaurant of the Year as Renata, who has only been officially open since the beginning of June (soft opening for a couple weeks before that).
Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors

I myself have still been deliberately waiting to write on what I think of Renata. I had eagerly been anticipating the opening of Renata back when it was still pop-up Project Grace, and so far had an opportunity to visit Renata a few times already. But, I was waiting to see what Renata would really be like when the rubber meets the road… and now with this announcement their test of execution of kitchen and service has been quickly accelerated. You will want to make reservations – they accept OpenTable Renata if you are trying to go now given the new buzz.

The dining space at Renata is airy and open. There are some tables of 2, and then these “Y” tables that can accommodate in different configurations larger parties or partially communal eating. It reminds me of restaurants I’ve seen in LA, where there is a bit of see and be seen to the dining scene .

Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these

On one visit I would take turns gazing lovingly on the food, paying attention to my dining companion, and glancing over to see what Andy Ricker at one table and Jeffrey Morgenthaler at a different table were eating and drinking while also being charmed watching the children of owners Nick and Sandra Arnerich eat at a counter with Sandra’s mother – 3 generations enjoying Renata. My visit on May 27 was also the same day Stephanie Yao Long took all those photos you saw accompanying the article announcing Renata as 2015 Restaurant of the Year so I got to watch that as well – I assumed it was for their “First Look” article (yes, I’m totally in a few of those photos).

And, Renata has a fabulous patio, if you are prepared for dealing with no shade on a cloudless day. Since this photo they have added one large patio umbrella in the middle so you still get lots of sun.
A look at Renata from their small parking lot, facing their patio Lots of open feel to the space inside Renata. There are some tables of 2 or 4, and then these

I appreciate how the bar faces windows, and most of all, not only do they have purse hooks under the counter but also outlets to charge your phone if you have your power cord handy! Thank you for your thoughtfulness, thank you.
Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord. Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord. Appreciate how the bar faces outside at Renata, and there are purse hooks AND outlets for charging your phone if you have your power cord.

The back away from the patio has mirrors, making the interior seem more spacious, and the whole restaurant fills with light thanks to the floor to ceiling windows/door. The wall between the patio and the restaurant are door panels that Renata can choose to open to let the breeze in, if they wish to, so the entire patio and restaurant can become one flowing space.
Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors Renata patio to restaurant interior, bridged by the wide open sliding window/doors

The patio is going to make this such an attractive al fresco lunch and dinner spot this summer and however long the weather cooperates until the rain comes. They canceled plans for now to host lunch service given how busy they are after the press
Renata patio Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon; Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments; Renata cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture

I don’t want to really review them until they have been open a bit longer, but thought I’d share the food photos at least to entice you… and to maybe explain why Michael Russell named them Restaurant of the Year, even though there is barely any write up out there on them yet.

The menu is divided into small plates which are in a box to the right side of the daily printed menu, with a section for Stuzzi or Bites, Tavola or Boards, and Antipasti. Next, in the main eating ring are half a dozen Primi Pasta dishes, a handful of Hearth/Grill dishes and Forni/Oven pizza dishes from their brick oven, and a couple Contorni/Sides.
Menu on May 27 2015 for Renata Menu on May 27 2015 for Renata

There is also a bar menu that doesn’t even capture the creativity tempered by incredible balance that is coming out. For instance, here is the cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger. I loved taking sips of the sweet and sour beverage and then little bites of the spicy ginger.
Renata cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger Renata cocktail Fortune Teller, with amaro ciociaro, lemon, marionberry, cacao, and ginger

Here is the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt. I was not expecting and loved the touch of the melon ball with a mint skewered in it.
Renata cocktail of the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt Renata cocktail of the Sicilian Advantage, with cynar, honeydew mint basil soda, and little sprinkle of sea salt

On the slightly stronger sipping side but just as delightful as the Sicilian Advantage is this Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda. You can use the spoon to take a little taste of the sorbet before it melts and becomes a contribution to the drink profile.
Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda Renata cocktail of Trevi Fountain with aperol ice cream, volstead vodka, luxardo maraschino and chinotto soda

Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank’s 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg
Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank's 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg Renata cocktail version of a flip called The Prince with bank's 5 island rum, hazelnut orgeat, lemon, egg, aromatic bitters and nutmeg

Or go classic and citrus with this cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture
Renata cocktail of Nights in Cabiria with ransom old tom gin, strega, apricot, lime, calabrian chili tincture

From the Stuzzi or Bites section, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo which has turned into other crudite/vegetable options based on what they desire to serve.
From Stuzzi section at Renata, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo From Stuzzi section at Renata, the Radish Crudite with whipped lardo

The Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili was a perfect mix of crispy and soft and disappeared quickly. Don’t be scared off by the trotters in the name, you might be able to trick your dining companion (I was sorely tempted) if you do not explain what trotters really are.
From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili From the Bites section of the Renata menu was this perfect Crispy Trotters with Salmoriglio and Calabrian chili

For something lighter if the day is hot, consider the Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon or whatever crostini they are serving.
Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon Renata Bite of Crostini with sheep milk ricotta, bottarga, and lemon

My bread recommendation would be though from the Tavola or Boards section, where you should order the Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote. Make sure you ask if they have the porcini butter, because that alone makes this worth the price.
From the Tavola section at Renata, Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote From the Tavola section at Renata, Pane basket that includes foccacia, pugliese, and tomato panettone with 3 accompaniments that included porcini whipped butter, honey, and an olive compote

Also from this section is the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments, which is pretty substantial and that melt in your mouth meat needs to be shared.
Renata Menu selection of the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments is pretty substantial Renata Menu selection of the Board of Salumi with prosciutto cotto, pork terrina, coppa di testa and accompaniments is pretty substantial

From the Antipasti section, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde. This dish updates based on what is fresh, so on another visit the Smoked King Salmon was accompanied by beets, horseradish, blackberries and pistachios instead, and another visit showed raspberries instead of blackberries.
From the Antipasti section of the Renata menu, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde From the Antipasti section of the Renata menu, Smoked King Salmon with spring vegetables, rye crumble and salsa verde

From the Primi section, the pasta types change often, though there is usually a cavatelli, tagliatelli, toasted flour paccheri, squid ink chitarra, and agnolotti. On one visit, I had this Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels. On another visit, the Carrot Top Cavatelli now had lamb sugo, AHD why, and morels.
From the Primi section, the Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels From the Primi section, the Carrot Top Cavatelli with lamb sugo and morels

The Isabelli Scarpinocc is a signature dish here, here with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts is perfect. You will want to carefully consider and appreciate each perfect pasta parcel of deliciousness – don’t rush through the dish. It’s not going to be a family style Italian heaping dish – the serving is exactly that of a primi, to be enjoyed but not fill you completely so that you can’t get to the mains.
Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata Isabelli Scarpinocc with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts at Renata

No photograph, but the Squid Ink Chitarra is another recommended pasta dish, a little scary looking with its dark inky bowl of shadows, but bursting with layers of flavors (the version I tried included salumi cotto, clams, and English peas). If you see an unusual pasta combo, take the plunge (for instance, below the Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts). Matthew Sigler is making magic with all the pastas, no matter what they are. YOU MUST ORDER A PASTA! MUST!
Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts Porcini Mushroom Tajarin from Renata with brown butter, duck giblets and pine nuts

From the Forno section, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic was tasty, but I can’t say it currently ranking among the top 10 in Portland – only time will tell what they can do.
From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic From the Forno section at Renata, Cavalo Nero pizza with sausage, pecorino and green garlic

I’ve only had one grill/mains. At almost $30, they were pretty pricey and getting the smaller dishes and pastas seemed like a better value – the exception I made was for the Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree. I had read they had purchased a whole cow, so I was anticipating when it would finish aging and be ready for a dish. That meat was melt in your mouth.
From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree and side of sauteed turnips and greens with chili and lemon From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip puree and side of sauteed turnips and greens with chili and lemon From the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto, and turnip pureeFrom the Renata Grill, Beef Tagliata with radish, nasturtium pesto

Also not photographed or ordered were the Ancient Heritage Dairy cheese plate – I’ve had AHD cheeses for many years from the Portland Farmers Market at PSU on Sat, and am so excited to see them being able to create more in the same building housing Renata. You can peek into the windows to see the production facility that rivals the viewing station at the Seattle Pike Place Market Beecher’s Cheese storefront – I hope that the other storefront I see still in progress will house easy access to some of the AHD cheese as well as Alma Chocolate in that last retail space.
Production area for cheeses of Ancient Heritage Dairy Production area for cheeses of Ancient Heritage Dairy

The private dining room for Renata lets you look at some of that delicious cheese on one side of the wall!
The private dining room for Renata lets you look at some of that delicious cheese in progress by Ancient Heritage on one side of the wall!

Dessert, particularly the gelatos, are a surprise of flavors. For instance, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam with lovage and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I’ve seen include Malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread. Don’t be afraid of anything at Renata, it may blow your mind

Dessert from Renata PDX of Gelato, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I've seen include malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread Dessert from Renata PDX of Gelato, here a scoop of Sourdough cherry jam and one scoop of AHD Whey Sorbetto. Other options I've seen include malted chocolate, Anisse hyssop, and Mint cocoa nib shortbread

Dessert of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle was light and easily sharable.
Dessert from Renata PDX of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle Dessert from Renata PDX of Olive Oil Cake with Lambrusco zabaglione, strawberries and almond brittle

And then, here are these adorable mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata
Mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata Mini cookies that came with the check for a sweet goodbye from Renata   Salted chocolate chip cookies with whey that came with the check at Renata Salted chocolate chip cookies with whey that came with the check at Renata

All what you saw above was not during any visit where Renata was at capacity, so my meals were leisurely. The service as among the best I have seen in most restaurants, where each staff member feels responsible to make your experience the best it can be. There’s no asking for something and the staff member says they’ll go get your server. If they see a dish is empty, or your water glass only half full, they will take the initiative to clear your table, to get a pitcher to refill your glass, to ask make eye contact to see if you need anything but otherwise continue their watchful stroll looking where to help.

In Portland, it’s not often I see this attentiveness but yet unobtrusiveness. At the same time, I was never there on a Fri or Sat night when the restaurant was bustling – part of the reason why this is not yet a review. But, I can see what the Oregonian saw – the incredible potential where all Renata needs to do is continue to be at this level – to earn Restaurant of the Year. Ever since my first visit I’ve mentioned Renata to anyone looking for a recommendation – the starters and pastas and cocktails I’ve experienced thus far have me crushing on Renata pretty hard.

What items seemed interesting to you from the Renata menu? What do you think of a restaurant not yet 1 month old being named 2015 Restaurant of the Year? If you want to go, make sure you  make reservations!

Renata Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Signature

Russian Dinner at Kachka PDX

Russian food is comforting and filling as you would expect from a country where it can get negative 30 below. For a country that has gone through so much famine and a generation with harsh memories of long queues for rationed food, what cuisine the people have been able to put together feels full of love and hope and celebration.

The cuisine has all the complexity yet simplicity of home-cooked, like you are at a family meal that has perfected and passed a recipe on through generations. The food feels emotional, with its contrast of plenty (though you will notice plenty of food showcasing mayo or pickles, or lots of flavors that may have been a way to make up for the small amount of meat since part of what you purchased may be rotten) with the reality of the harsh, melancholy heartbreak and hardship of Russian history.

One of my favorite restaurants when I lived in Chicago was Russian Tea Time (chef Bonnie Morales and husband Israel Morales are from Chicago too). When I moved from Chicago to Portland in 2008 I was disappointed by the lack of Russian cuisine in Portland. Then, after a few years I was thrilled when I got a bit of a taste with a Russian Pop-up at an early test of what would be eventually Da Net via Vitaly Paley’s Russian Pop-up back in March of 2013. Then, a month later, Kachka PDX opened as a permanent location to get a Russian cuisine fix . After completing a promise to myself to finish a book on Soviet food, I rewarded myself with several visits that I am now sharing with you. While DaNet, as I covered in a previous post, is a pop up Russian Experience with a set menu, Kachka is a restaurant you can visit any day and order your Russian meal a la carte.

Located at 720 SE Grand Avenue, Kachka doesn’t look like much from the outside with it’s rectangular, narrow long space that is dimly lit. Half the wall has fake windows, making you feel just like you were in a communal dining room with other comrades (well hello, I guess we are).

Stepping inside, you feel a bit like you are in a Russian living room with the utensils and napkins on the table in a flowery mug. , The tables are a bit cramped together to continue to give the requisite vibe of a communal space while thankfully, still having your own private table (no shared tables here unlike some actual communal table restaurants). A few kitschy references to Rodina (Russia portrayed as a Motherland) are scattered on the wall here or there to provide warmth, and there are a few pieces of Soviet political decor here or there as well.
Kachka PDX front Kachka PDX front host stand I came in early on a Monday for happy hour on a super cold rainy day and was treated to the ability to take this great shot of an almost empty Kachka. Several seats were taken only minutes after this photo. Bar at Kachka PDX is a nod to the propaganda of Soviet Russia times and Imperial Russia Kachka PDX simple Soviet nods on the wall

While my previous Russian restaurant experience offered more homey foods of the different regions of Mother Russia, Kachka focuses mainly on zakuski, which are small hot or cold super savory small plates that are meant to accompany enjoyment of vodka. The goal is to completely fill your table with zakuski and as you drink your vodka, always have a toast and a bite of zakuski along with spirited conversation.

With their offering of a vodka flight at a reasonable 30 grams times three, or ordering any individual at sizes of 30, 60, or 100 grams, it’s possible to get a taste of that tradition of drinking and eating without going overboard. You can go traditional vodka or the infused with additional flavor liquors (mostly vodka but not exclusively) like lemon vodka, rosemary vodka, chamomile vodka, horseradish vodka, cocoa nib vodka and more like caraway rye whiskey or Earl Grey brandy. My personal favorite is the horseradish vodka.

They also have some pre organized vodka flights for you, this one is the Mother Russia vodka flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia. Even if you don’t think you like vodka, I really encourage you to try one of the flavor vodka in 30 grams in the spirit of what Kachka is trying to do.
Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX 30 g of lemon infused vodka

If you come at happy hour though, or you just want something a bit more with your vodka, check out the cocktails featuring some of those flavored liquors or vodkas. For instance, for a while there was the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon. A constant cocktail offering (and also $5 at happy hour) is the Moscow Mule with vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, ginger beer. I will count that for you as trying Russian vodka too and getting into the spirit of zakuski.
Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Moscow Mule with vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, ginger beer

Now let’s look at some of the drinking food, aka zakuski. The much raved about “Herring Under a Fur Coat” cold zakuski is beautiful, and it seems to be the glamour shot that represents Kachka in most media avenues that I see Kachka mentioned in.
The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs. The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs.

I did love the dish, but I also highly enjoyed different mayo Russian salad, perhaps even more so then the Herring Under a Fur Coat. That mayo Russian salad I’m referring to is the Duck Olivier. This cold zakuski is a take on salat Oliver, a traditional Russian salad that as I learned from reading Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking (you can read my review of that book here), has lots of variations representing regions and even the type of person you are (privileged, peasant, artsy dissident…) in Russia. This is the most popular salad in Russia.

This cold salad includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat – in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka’s version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo. Um, yummm. Fantastic. This is the salat Olivier that is my gold standard to beat and measure all salat Olivier or any potato salad.

Kachka PDX cold zakuski of duck Olivier, a cold salad that includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat - in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka's version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo Kachka PDX cold zakuski of duck Olivier, a cold salad that includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat - in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka's version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo

The lesson with either of those Russian salads, whichever one you try, is don’t be afraid of the presence of mayo. As I was enjoying these two dishes (2 different visits), I thought about the book I read, and how containers were hard to find during the Soviet era, and so mayo jars were very commonly used to hold anything and everything. Mayonnaise, similar to sour cream, dill, stews and oven baked pies, are a critical part of Russian food.

For a simpler cold zakuski that is vegetarian, try the brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash.
Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash

Or feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes – the most affordable one is the House Cured Steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier Beet Cured Whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar. The Blini here are small and thin, lighter and almost approaching crepe compared to the more richer decadant pancake Blini of DaNet.
At Kachka PDX, feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes - the most affordable one is the house cured steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier beet cured whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar. At Kachka PDX, feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes - the most affordable one is the house cured steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier beet cured whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar.

When it comes to hot zakuski, in particular the Horseradish Vodka pairs perfectly with this dish Crispy Beef Tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, and buckwheat cracker. Similar to the Herring Under a Fur Coat and the Duck Olivier, I think this Crispy Beef Tongue represents what Kachka is all about – the homey weirdness of some traditional Russian cuisine but elegantly and expertly refined to a fine dining level fit for a czar.
Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of crispy beef tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, buckwheat cracker Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of crispy beef tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, buckwheat cracker

My favorite hot zakuski is the khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in dough, sort of like a pita quesadilla. It’s not as doughy or thickly cheesy comforting as an authentic Georgian khachapuri and the adjika is not nearly intense enough, but I can have this one with vodka anytime for dinner so I give points for accessibility and context for this take on the Georgian national dish. The more like a pita bread version here also has a slight crispness that is a great contrast to the oozy cheese, but be careful with your fingers as its less dough layers from that hot cheese to you too!
Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in pillowy dough -- like a crunchwrap and a cheese calzone had a lovechild. Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in pillowy dough -- like a crunchwrap and a cheese calzone had a lovechild.

You should not miss the melt in your mouth dumplings – be it the meat ones like this Siberian Pelmeni with Beef, Pork, Veal and Onion or if you get the vegetarian version of Tvorog Vareniki with Farmers Cheese and Scallion. Do not miss this, it is a must order.
At Kachka PDX do not miss these Russian Dumplings of siberian pelmeni with beef, pork, veal and onion and also on the happy hour menu! Kachka's tvorog vareniki, a dish of scallion and farmer’s cheese filled dumplings that are just melt in your mouth, and also on the happy hour menu!

There are only a handful of main dishes, which rotate in and out with new items. During the winter months, I was surprised to see a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette. This is a time consuming dish – even at Kachka it takes 30 minutes to prepare from when you order. And it’s huge- enough to feed 2-4. I was glad I had a chance to try it while it was on the menu (it was rotated out in the spring menu).
Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette

End your meal with some tea (or start with some if you come in on a cold windy rainy day like I did!). If you happen to come during happy hour, besides the pelmeni and vareniki dumplings which are both on the menu, there is also the option of the Red October with lamb meatballs, adjika, cheese all on a hoagie roll. It’s definitely the largest food item on the happy hour menu.
The biggest item on the Kachka Happy Hour menu is this Red October with lamb meatballs, adjika, cheese all on a hoagie roll.

Because you can order a la carte Kachka gives you control of how many dishes you fill your table with, or simply order the zakuski experience and let the kitchen fill your table on your behalf. Zakuski plates are mostly small to encourage a lot of sharing and trying of a variety of dishes. As you can see everything is plated beautifully and elegantly rather than home style casual, which provides an atmosphere of luxury on the plate contrasting with the humble around you in the restaurant decor. It’s a feel of public communal dining hall but you are given individual party privacy and elevated take that made me feel a bit like a peek into the nomenklatura or privileged class of Russia. I can’t think of a better place in Portland to celebrate the art of zakuski in such an upscale way.

As a coincidence, I saw the day before this post was scheduled to be published that Eater just created a “One Night” feature on Kachka, which includes video and gorgeous photos giving you a peek at one night at Kachka – take a look at One Night at Kachka here. Eater’s feature piece does include pictures of every single thing on Kachka’s menu, at least in May, and a video on how they make those delectable dumplings. Also, it’s just a super cool feature that takes advantage of the web (I recommend seeing it on a computer as the design doesn’t translate as well to mobile though it’s still better than most any other article you would read online in embracing telling a story using all the media available).

Kachka Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

What about you? Have you been to Kachka? Is there anything about Kachka that I’ve shared that makes you curious to give it a try? What did you think of the Eater feature if you perused it?

Signature

Ivan Ramen

For today’s Travel Tuesday, I am taking you to New York City and Ivan Ramen. Located at Gotham West Market, which is like a food court but with eight really really nice food booth restaurants, in Hell’s Kitchen, Ivan Ramen is the brainchild of Tokyo Ramen Master Ivan Orkin. If you’re thinking that does not sound Japanese at all, you’re right. He’s an American, but lives in Japan (it seems he fell in love with Japan when he went there to teach English in the 80s and has never looked back). He even has a ramen joint there in Japan- and the only place to get his ramen outside Tokyo is in New York, at one of two locations. One of them is the Slurp Shop here at Gotham West Market.

Gotham West Market, New York

I was fascinated by the idea of a foreigner being able to break into the food scene in Tokyo, particularly with something as beloved as ramen. Ramen can differ by region – and in fact there are even Ramen Museums. Yes, entire museums… and more than one museum. You can also take a bath in ramen. I don’t really have anything to say about that, if only you could see my face when reading that article though… anyway.

So in New York, off I went to Ivan Ramen. I had been eating a progressive meal every day I was in New York, and honestly was about to go to dinner at Todd English Food Hall after this stop (and I had eaten earlier at Chelsea Market), so I told myself I would only eat half the bowl. But… yeah I ate the whole thing. The kitchen was pretty busy when I arrived, with most of the seats taken at the tables and bar countertop. Thankfully, shortly after I ordered at the register, some bar seats opened and I had a chance to carefully study the Art of the Slurp illustrated at the countertop of Ivan Ramen.
The bustling kitchen of Ivan Ramen at Gotham West Market Instructions of The Art of the Slurp from Ivan Ramen in Gotham West Market

This is the famous Spicy Red Chili Ramen with minced pork, scallions, smashed egg, fully loaded with egg, extra pork and roast tomato.
Spicy Red Chili Ramen with minced pork, scallions, smashed egg, fully loaded with egg, extra pork and roast tomato. Ivan Ramen, Gotham West Market, New York

I was not shy about adding all the garlic oil in the container. Look at how beautifully cut those scallions are. What makes Ivan’s ramen different than most you might try in the US is that he does a double soup, where they combine two broths to create a balance of flavors in the ramen bowl.
Spicy Red Chili Ramen with minced pork, scallions, smashed egg, fully loaded with egg, extra pork and roast tomato. Ivan Ramen, Gotham West Market, New York Spicy Red Chili Ramen with minced pork, scallions, smashed egg, fully loaded with egg, extra pork and roast tomato. Ivan Ramen, Gotham West Market, New York

If you visit Ivan Ramen, rest assured that he has vegetarian ramen available from his menu of about half a dozen noodle options. The only thing you should definitely be aware of is that the ramen is not cheap – it starts at $13, not counting any add ons or making it fully loaded like I did. As with all ramen, it’s always good to eat it relatively quickly because you don’t want the noodles to get too soggy as it absorbs the broth. I also recommend grabbing a glass of water for yourself – often just drinking the broth is enough for me, but it was a bit on the salty side for me so I needed the water as well.

Besides ramen, there are also rice bowls at Ivan Ramen NYC Slurp Shop, and most intriguing, a breakfast menu and a brunch menu involving scrambled eggs and breakfast buns (Japanese breakfast sausage, scallion omelet, yuzu hollandaise) or sweet silken tofu and more! Check out the Slurp Shop menu!

I leave this Travel Tuesday post with some great advice from Gotham West Market:
Gotham West Market advice: Sleep Til You're Hungry, Eat Til You're Sleepy

If you wish you could taste the creations of Ivan… there actually is an opportunity coming up in Portland on Saturday, June 13. As part of the Salt Fire Water series presented by Williams-Sonoma Open Kitchen, with Ingredient Sponsor New Seasons Market at the Jacobsen Salt Co.’s headquarters and event space, Chef Earl Ninsom of Lang Baan and Chef Ivan Orkin of Ivan Ramen are working together to create a special dinner. The cost of the dinner is $135 ticket and includes five courses, four glasses of the featured wines, producer/chef discussions, and the ability to purchase special product, books, etc. at event.

Only 50 seats are available…. and I am going to be in one of those seats! Of course I’ll share the recap after the dinner if you want to vicariously live through me. The IVAN RAMEN + LANG BAAN – Jacobsen Salt Co.’s SALT FIRE WATER tickets seem to be sold out (no surprise here since Earl Ninsom’s Lang Baan is basically sold out until November, and Ivan Orkin usually spends his time either in Tokyo or New York where his restaurants are so it’s a big deal for him to be in Portland cooking for us), but you can check out more SALT FIRE WATER events here at Eventbrite.

Are you a big fan of ramen? Would you go to a Ramen Museum (I am contemplating visiting one on a future visit to Japan)? What food would you like to see be a museum here in the US?
Have you seen the movie that celebrates the artistry and deliciousness of ramen, Tampopo? It’s one of my top food movies!

Signature