Photos of a dinner of small samplers at Aviary Portland

Just some photos of a dinner of small samplers at Aviary Restaurant in Portland. Between the two of us, we shared 3 appetizers, and then 3 of the slightly larger and heavier small plates (everything at Aviary is small plates though). First to appear at the table was the bread with butter dipping sauce (I particuarly liked that one of the breads was an olive bread), it was a thoughtul and welcome start. Then came the first dish from the kitchen,  tempura pumpkin with red curry, scallions, thai basil. This was our favorite of the appetizers thanks to the crispy lightness of the batter surrounding the warm firm/softness of the pumpkin with a bit of spice from the curry which was rounded out by some coconut cream in the curry.

Second best was the ox tail croquettes tomato jam which were tender bites of rich meatness. The fried chicken skin salad with watermelon, bitter greens, baba ganoush was raved about in reviews, but we found it the weakest- I was expecting a better pop of contrasting flavors between the luxury of fried chicken skin with the bitterness of the greens, acid of watermelon, and smokiness of baba ganoush, and this just wasn’t realized. Part of me was also hoping the fried chicken skin would be really crunchy crispy- sort of the equivalent of when  you get extra crispy from fast food place- and I guess I expected the fried chicken to be in the kind of quantity ratio to the salad like a normal chicken breast would be in a salad with chicken breast. You can see from the picture the greens seem to barely qualify this dish as a salad.

Aviary, Portland, small plates Aviary, Portland, small plates Aviary, Portland, small plates

In terms of slightly heavier small plates, we went with a trio of one pork, one beef, and one chicken. The weakest was the crispy pig ear atop coconut rice, chinese sausage, and avocado and greens, again where similar to the fried chicken skin salad, the fat wasn’t balanced well enough by the other components, and leaned instead towards layers of different types of oils. I did like the smoothness of the coconut rice, but then the rest of the dish didn’t balance out for me.

Her favorite was the hoisin glazed short rib with farro and turnips and yuzu pickles, which I really did like- it was so juicy tender and the meat disintegrated on your mouth while teasing you with a bit of the pomegranate and the creaminess of the farro mixing in with that savory melting meat- and a playful texture difference betwen them all- but it was also a very heavy dish. That’s why my favorite was the four cup chicken with taro root, dried apricot and truffle, wood ear mushrooms, all subtle flavors that you could individually appreciate but also harmonized well with the tender juicy chicken. I could probably actually eat that whole dish, but would get overwhelmed after a while with any of the others even though they were good for the first shared portion.

Aviary, Portland, small plates Aviary, Portland, small plates Aviary, Portland, small plates

Honestly, we ordered 2 small plates too many- although all the plates are small, this would have really been better at a table of four rather then two. The clean simple decor of a lot of warm wood and candlelight made the space seem very empty and open, but this minimalism also lacked a bit of character- we could have been in any Portland restaurant, I wish there had been a little more there in terms of atmosphere to give a better feel of its personality. However, the service was smooth and friendly, paced wonderfully as we enjoyed our bottle of ’08 Scipt & Seal Bourdeaux to get us food quickly but then considerately let us linger with our conversation without much interruption. Also, they did survive a fire (started from fireworks that landed on the roof) that closed them down for a while, so I give them a break for rising like a phoenix from the ashes.

If you visit, make sure you take more people to share dishes and reduce how much of a single dish you need to eat (four seems like it would be a perfect number). Aviary is really a restaurant that seems best suited to lots of little bird bites of many of the rich dishes- so plan your dining party accordingly.

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EaT: An Oyster Bar… Baked Oysters!

I have only once visited at EaT: An Oyster Bar on N Williams (once they open their location in the Pearl I’ll have easier access for more visits)- I wanted a little snack before a HipCooks class. I don’t have oysters often, but mainly that is because although I really enjoy them, they usually are not a good value for your money in terms of amount of food you get. Ironically, I think historically because oysters used to be more plentiful and are a relatively less effort type of animal to get since they are basically just gathered from sea beds, oysters used to be much more affordable and normally eaten by anyone living by the sea. But demand and disease has changed that now. Every time I have them I feel like I’m treating myself, be they raw, fried, or baked.

I know there are people who say they don’t like oysters, but I would definitely recommend you try them more than once because I basically think you are wrong. Perhaps you want to start with the cooked kind first instead of raw, and I like both- just like fish. I often compare it to a bit like sashimi and sushi- at first you may think you are repulsed by the idea of eating raw oysters for instance (obviously not the case with fried or baked), but that really isn’t much different then eating raw fish. They have a mild taste of the ocean (but not too much- not if they are fresh). Per the Seafood Watch list which rates various seafood in terms of ocean-friendly food, oysters (depending on type) are rated pretty high. Even if you don’t like sashimi, you may still like sushi be it perhaps certain kinds of rolls or ingredients or sauces… and also, even if you don’t like raw oysters, you will probably like them cooked.

On the day I visited EaT I tried them baked, though I definitely want to go back and try them raw. They had what seemed like would be an interesting flight of oyster shooters with the variance between them being chili-infused vodka vs chili-infused rum vs chili-infused bourbon. They also had one with beer.

Baked is a nice in-between texture step from the more wet silky but firm with juice texture of having them raw and the chewiness of the fried (not counting the crispness of the batter of course) in terms of texture. With baked, I still can enjoy slurping them from the shell and getting a touch of brine, but I keep them in my mouth for more chews to enjoy the flavor then when they are raw and slippery. Baked oysters tend to also be more rich and savory, while raw ones are zesty in the overall flavors in your mouthful- similar to how a pasta can be highlighted either by a cream sauce or a tomato based or light olive oil based sauce. They are all great, depending on what you want to taste at that moment.

EaT: An Oyster Bar, Baked Oysters

The three preparations of baked oysters I got were two regular and one seasonal special. In the front is the special, which is 2 oysters with arugula and manchego cheese. I don’t think arugula was a good choice as it was a bit too bitter, maybe a more peppery mixed green would have been better. This was my least favorite of the three.

Behind to the right is the Rockefeller with spinach and watercress puree but with a touch of Absinthe before topping with Parmesan.

My favorite are the oysters to the left, the Bienville with mushroom bechamal with sharp cheddar. It had the freshness of the oyster with a bit of salty brine balanced with the richness of the mushroom but a bit of edge from the cheddar- really wonderful, one of the best baked oyster flavor profiles I can remember.

I also had a Hurricane, which really knocked me for a bit- equals a good Hurricane. Theirs is rum mixed with their own house fruit juices topped with pomegranate vodka. It was a perfect way to kill a little time – milking my Hurricane, trying not to eat my oysters too fast as I watched the evening commute on N Williams, a long busy parade of so many cars and bicycles. They have other Cajun offerings, but if you come here, you must have oysters anyway. I mean, it’s right in their name, how could you not?

I’m glad I didn’t give up when the first time I had oysters I just chewed and chewed and spit it out in the end- don’t let one bad experience taint you because oysters are awesome. Just to show another kind of cooked oysters, here is a photo of my favorite food memory of fried oyster, from Firefly at Dupont Circle in Washington DC- they came with a chipotle tarter sauce but I couldn’t dip them because these were perfect on their own- better or equal to fried chicken, definitely better then calamari.

Fried Oysters, Dupont Circle, Washington DC, Firefly Restaurant

I still remember this years later and how happy I was, even though my teeth were aching from wearing braces at the time and having them tightened that I was forced to take little itty bitty bird bites even of my crisp fries. But this meal made that a wonderful lunch and memory. I haven’t yet found a better fried oyster yet, but I’ll keep looking.

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Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen

What was Pho PDX has blossomed into adulthood recently with Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen. It cleans up its late night pho act by leaving the food court mall equivalent of a just graduated out of college continuation of a dorm room/first apartment, and is now getting all modern and sophisticated like it now has a respectable full time white collar job and the same interior decorator who designs those apartments used in backdrops in TV shows.

They have deep red booth seats with little gold buttons and antique-recalling wooden red mismatched chairs paired with modern dark wood tables and a minimalist bar (including the I hope you have a small butt barstools) which are softened by pink parasols hanging from the ceiling and the whimsy of sketched black and white lions with fetching blue eyes jumping around playfully on one wall to counter the damask wallpaper on the other wall. It seems just too classy for a place that stays open until 4am. It’s like a sexy supermodel or actress who loves sports and videogames- who’s complaining about the upscale-ness?

After a little holiday shopping downtown, we stopped for dinner. They have a menu on a chalkboard, but grab the printed ones by the register when you first walk in and order there at that corner. They give you a table # so then you find your seat and wait for your food delivery. This definitely makes sense for the pho lunch rush to get orders in as fast as possible- and thankfully unlike say the teeny Pine State Kitchen or Bunk Sandwiches which also runs on a “order first and then get your seat”, there is plenty of real estate to establish your eating space- it’s more akin to Noodles and Company or Boke Bowl with the table numbers meaning you will at least get your food delivered to you without trying to carry your pho anywhere.

It just looks so nice it almost seems like it would be a full service restaurant- especially when you are at the more laid back dinner hour. Consider this though- then you’d be at the mercy of someone waiting and checking on your table. The biggest boon to this is for cocktails. I only had two that night, but let’s say I want to try them all (and let’s say that’s not untrue, but probably should not be done in one trip). I would easily be able to every time I want a refresh, just hustle up to the bar and get instant gratification of ordering something instead of having to flag someone down as they try to service everyone else. It is a more casual service model, but I don’t mind. There’s nothing wrong with sometimes preferring the service at In N Out over a tablecloth restaurant.

Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen

For food, we started out with the Fresh Spring Rolls (rice paper stuffed with vermicelli noodles, romain, sprouts, and mint and your choice of pork&shrimp, shrimp, or tofu- we had tofu) last time, so this time went with the Vegetarian Crispy Rolls with tofu, celery, cabbage and carrots. The end of our comparison was that crispy rolls aren’t as good- we like the peppery flavor inside, but the wrapper added an extra oiliness that isn’t as refreshing and “I feel healthy” as the super fat spring rolls (even though you are eating something 4x the size). Definitely go with the Spring Rolls (you can see photos of them at my previous blog on Pho PDX).

Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen

For the main, I tried out the expanded menu from pho with the namesake Luc Lac, cubed beef tenderloin wok seared with hennessey, beurre de france, garlic, black peppercorn, served with field mixed greens and tomato fried rice. This is some seriously steak quality meat that is flavorful and a nice cut of beef, it made the greens underneath just by being underneath super tasty. The tomato fried rice was ok but I would have preferred plain jasmine rice to not compete with the flavor of the beef.

Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen

The other main, Lemongrass Stir Fry with tofu option (instead of chicken) with veggies and lemongrass-tumeric chili sauce over rice, was the same as previously served at Pho PDX- ok, but why get that when you have so many other better options with their bigger kitchen? They now offer tempting sounding Ga Ro Ti of roasted half game hen marinated in lemongrass, spirces, and garlic with greens and tomato fried rice, Nem Nuong Pork Sausage either as vermicelli bowls or rice plates or Banh Mi (or awesomely a combination plate with grilled pork, grilled chicken, grilled chrimp, the nem nuong as crispy rolls), Chicken wings caramelized in fish sauce and garlic, Mussels in lemongrass tamarind broth with mushrooms, Sugar Cane Shrimp…

Yes I’ll be back please. I’m going to have every cocktail they offer by Spring 2012, you’ll see. Those cocktails kick a$$… and is all the reason you need to expand from the pho to try everything else on the menu.

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Dinner at Tabla Bistro

A dinner at Tabla Bistro on Dec 16, 75% motivated just because their homemade pasta dish of Tajarin is so loved and was accompanied by such enticing pictures by Portland Monthly’s Eat Beat recently. You can order a prix fixe for only $28 that yields your choice of one appetizer, one half order of fresh pasta, and an entree off their main menu.

For us, the starters were beautiful orders of Fall Vegetable Salad with turnip greens mousse, feta, market vegetables, mustard seeds and the Sous Vide Egg with sunchokes, speck, watercress coulis, chanterelle cream. I suppose we could have ordered bread and butter (additional $3) to wipe up the sauce, but we didn’t.

Tabla Bistro, Fall Vegetable Salad with turnip greens mousse, feta, market vegetables, mustard seeds Tabla Bistro, Fall Vegetable Salad with turnip greens mousse, feta, market vegetables, mustard seeds Tabla Bistro, Sous Vide Egg with sunchokes, speck, watercress coulis, chanterelle cream Tabla Bistro, Sous Vide Egg with sunchokes, speck, watercress coulis, chanterelle cream

For the fresh pasta course, the half order of Tajarin with truffle butter, parmigiano reggiano. The pasta here are really very delicate and gentle, and should not be missed as part of your meal. For the mains, another half order of pasta, this time Chestnut Cavatelli with braised lava lake lamb, fiore di sardegna pecorino, and the vegetarian Bob’s Red Mill Polenta with maitake mushrooms, brussels, sprouts, salsa verde.

Tabla Bistro, Tajarin with truffle butter, parmigiano reggiano Tabla Bistro, Tajarin with truffle butter, parmigiano reggiano Tabla Bistro, Bob’s Red Mill Polenta with maitake mushrooms, brussels, sprouts, salsa verde Tabla Bistro, Chestnut Cavatelli with braised lava lake lamb, fiore di sardegna pecorino

Dessert included Winter Squash Cake with candied walnuts, maple caramel, creme fraiche and either housemade blackberry gelato or salted caramel sorbettto to give us a break from all the richness of their offerings during the meal.

Tabla Bistro, housemade blackberry gelato Tabla Bistro, housemade salted caramel sorbetttoTabla Bistro, Winter Squash Cake with candied walnuts, maple caramel, creme fraiche Tabla Bistro, Winter Squash Cake with candied walnuts, maple caramel, creme fraiche

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Japanese Curry at Kale

Last week, I visited with a Foodie meetup group and had the Doria at Kalé. When you enter, you order at the counter one of their three kinds of entrees- the beef curry, the original (meatless), or the Doria. That’s it. They do curry, and that’s the speciality. The portions are traditional and adequate- so if you are looking for a huge American/Italian style heaping plate, reset your expectations.

The curry itself is almost like a thick gravy that also has chunk in it like onions, carrots, tomatoes, etc, which is served with Japanese rice- mix it all together! And, you can add some extras like egg, spinach, or what I recommend, more of their pickles as it adds a bit of extra bite to the savoryness of the curry.

Japanese curry, Kale

The Doria is your choice of either beef or original traditional curry which is then topped with parika and your choice of a sprinkle of shredded cheese:  mozzarella or cheddar or half/half like I did. This is then baked in the oven for 10 minutes, and they can only make three at a time (so you may have to wait if you are #4), and they will bring it to your table.

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The other two options they will put together right there and call your name to get it on the tray and you bring it to the table yourself. It’s a very simple place- the owner is there excited to explain Japanese curry at the register which definitely lends it charm. This space used to be the Japanese restaurant Bush Gardens- and the sushi bar is now the curry dish prep assemble and retrieve your curry workstation.

Then, after you order and retrieve your dish (unless you have to wait 10 minutes for your Doria), there are plenty of two-top and four-top tables along the side, as well as three tatami booths to sit in to eat your dish in a clean and very minimal decor- except for a few Japanese items along the wall, you might expect to see any kind of other food being served here for lunch. As you walk back towards the door, there are buckets for you to place your trash and dishes as he nods and appreciate you with his thanks as you walk out the door.

Currently Kalé is still applying for their liquor license, because I really wished I could have had just a little thing of sake to go with it all. Without any dessert offering, we went on to Pudding on the Rice in the South Park blocks for our bites of dessert (heh, more rice- but also patronizing two small local businesses with our group). Kalé has only been open a month, but while we were there we saw plenty of Japanese groups of college students come in and out for their hearty dinner: it really is a order, eat, and leave kind of place. Let’s see what Kalé grows up to be.

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