The Reffen street food market

Reffen is a street food market in Copenhagen that is essentially a group of shipping containers bound by different communal dining areas each with different atmosphere. Each shipping container is its own business – most were offering food from all over the world, all blending like all the various diners at the tables, into a global melting pot. The Reffen street food market is in an unlikely location that you have to pass by several industrial parks which make you question whether you are going the right way… but once you are there, you can surprisingly dine even al fresco right by the water and across the harbor you can see The Little Mermaid and Amalienborg Palace.

Apparently they know visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you’re not lost, you’re almost there.
The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there.

At the Reffen street food market you’ll find more then 30 food carts, as well as some additional creative spaces that have popped up here. Some dining areas are covered with a roof only while some even had four walls. Every stall store is cashless and accepts credit cards only (or use cash to purchase a prepaid credit card) and uses recyclable or compostable foodwares to reduce waste.

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Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek versus Thorvaldsen’s Museum

During my last Travel Tuesday post I shared ideas of how to enjoy free things in Copenhagen. I recommended looking up when are the free days at various museums to take advantage of visiting on those days. This worked out twice in my favor during my last visit, as I visited the sculpture museums of Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, free on Tuesdays, and then Thorvaldsen’s Museum, which is free on Wednesdays. Today I will share more details from both these museums, both which showcase sculpture, so you know what you will get at each museum.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen include the bronze works of Edgar Degas, including Little Dancer of Fourteen Years Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen statue, Antonin Mercié (1895) by Jean-Louis-Ernest Meissonier which is discovered in a damp cellar and is currently in the midst of being restored

I thought that both are primarily sculpture museum was a big draw as I looked forward to seeing several famous works in person instead of the flat photos I remember from my Humanities textbook. I recall in high school studying the change from the more stately, monument body form in sculptures to a more humanistic capture of more natural instead of stylized bodies, and then art starting to embody frozen action and emotion. I also in school had really enjoyed studying Greek and Roman myths, which are also used as inspiration for many sculptures.

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Lunch at Geranium

During my trip to Copenhagen recently, I splurged on a luxurious lunch dining at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant run by a chef who has won gold, silver and bronze at the Bocuse D’or, essentially an international culinary Olympics. It was a lunch that lasted 4 hours, basically filled me up so dinner was no longer necessary, and included 18 small dishes. I’ll also say upfront that this was a meal that has me tightening up my food dining budget for the rest of the year – the Autumn Universe Tasting menu, which is prix fixe, is 2,500 DKK – about $382. And that is before any beverage pairings (wine pairing options range from 1,400-4,200 DKK), though I opted for the juice pairing at 750 DKK. Is it worth it? It is if you have the right mindframe.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen
In the back glass case behind the fireplace you can see the Bocuse D’or, trophies of with gold, silver, and bronze.

My experience dining at Geranium was not my first experience in the Michelin star restaurant world – and in of course a controversial arbitrary filter the Michelin stars are only awarded in four cities in the US. The limitation means that you can definitely find food that is just as delicious without the Michelin star in both high and low places, including I think here in Portland.

That said, there is a certain difference between difference that I do notice at the few Michelin starred restaurants I have experienced– and its beyond deliciousness. What IMHO are the differentiating factors are consistency in all the dishes are executed at a high level, the elegant and meticulously designed service, and finally overall dining experience being composed of more then just the food that goes in your mouth. So to make the Geranium or any of this level of restaurant feel worth it, you have to be aware and appreciate those additional characteristics.

It’s a little weird to find Geranium given it’s location at the Telia Parken Stadium. The atmosphere of Geranium is clean and minimalist in white and grey tones, but also comfortable. I appreciated that my dining seat was basically a mini-couch, complete with a couple pillows. Floor to ceiling windows let us look out into the bright autumn foliage and sunshine of the Fælledparken Garden outside. It was perfection in setting the stage and underscoring throughout the meal when the theme is Autumn. The same menu is served at lunch and dinner and I prefer enjoying it in the full light of day then.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

My table also was right next to the area of the kitchen where they did the plating (the cooking of the dishes happens in additional kitchen areas beyond, which you get to see later before dessert as part of the restaurant tour). There is one more table you can barely see behind mine where the occupant can watch all the plating happen, but I liked the option to also watch the other diners in the room or turn to see the kitchen easily. I was literally the first guest for lunch to show up (which is why my photos initially show an empty dining room), so often I was among the first to get a dish and I could also watch the fun of the reactions of other diners to those dishes.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

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Free things to do in Copenhagen

I generally plot places I want to eat first into my budget and map, and then work around from there on filling a place to stay (though in this case that was already determined by F’s work conference) and things to do. In this case, when I saw how much would be spent on my food budget, I decided for the activities between my meals I wanted to take advantage of free or cheap things to do. Here are some of the free things to do in Copenhagen I took advantage of.

The Little Mermaid

Yes, it’s a tourist trap that many visitors flock to, and I don’t think there’s a need to take any tour to go see it. Just read up a little bit on the statue by doing a little pre-research online – I take photos of pages or copy and paste to reference the information when I’m there so no need to carry any guidebooks. I also advise you, especially in this case, to set your expectations accordingly knowing the cons of a tourist attraction, be it whether there are long lines, no ac, or in this case it is after all just a small statue. Finally, and my biggest tip, go early. Most tourists, being on vacation, like to sleep in as it is part of relaxing during the trip. So I constantly beat this by going early.
The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen
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Lunch at Restaurant Palaegade

Before the trendy but delicious Avocado Toast became popular here both for its visual appeal and tastyiness, there was smørrebrød. In Denmark one of the common traditional foods you will find is smørrebrød. These are open-faced sandwiches built on buttered dense sourdough rye bread – the word itself comes from the first two layers of butter (smør) and bread (brød) with the butter being the protective layer to ensure the bread does not get soggy. Then on top of that you’ll find additional layers that can run the gamut from herring to egg, mushrooms, roast beef, just cheese, and more. Many smørrebrød restaurants may offer a dozen to at some places more then 100 smørrebrød options! Smørrebrød is healthy, hearty and everywhere – I had my smørrebrød experience while on my trip last week to Copenhagen during lunch at Restaurant Palaegade.

Restaurant Palaegade offers 40 options of smørrebrød at lunch, and I picked to have lunch at Restaurant Palaegade because they are in easy walking distance from popular sites like Nyhavn, Rosenborg Slot, and Christiansborg Slot so it’s a perfect stop between visiting these three locations (I’ll talk about my visit to some of these attractions next week on my Travel Tuesday post). Restaurant Palaegade was my pick from a list of possible locations that also included Restaurant Schønnemann (old school place with more then 110 options!), Restaurant Kronborg (traditional cozy setting), and Cafe Gammel Torv (located in a cellar!). I liked how Restaurant Palaegade offered traditional as well as new takes on smørrebrød. They also had seats outside on the sidewalk, but I was too cold it turns out. Also, this was recommended to me by Gary the Foodie, so I had to try it out!
Restaurant Palaegade in Copenhagen offering traditional Danish smørrebrød. These are open-faced sandwiches built on buttered dense sourdough rye bread

I started off with a Snap – that is, a small shot of aquavit, and restrained myself from squeeing too much at the glass already set at the table even before I ordered. How can you not have a snap once you see this glass waiting at your place setting?
Restaurant Palaegade in Copenhagen offering traditional Danish smørrebrød and snaps - aka aquavit shots, like this

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