A lunch at Angelini Osteria in LA

While on the plane from Portland to Los Angeles, I was reading Heat: An Amateur’s Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany by Bill Buford. Reading as he tries to master pasta in Italy was giving me crazy cravings for pasta which I got my fix at Forma Restaurant as I wrote last week, but also for the simple seasonal food he writes about that Italians are known for there despite the Italian American images of hearty pastas and red sauce and meatballs with garlic bread. My sister recommended we try out a lunch at Angelini Osteria, and it was incredible. It really felt like it was airlifted from Italy to this street in LA, bringing both the food and atmosphere and accented waiters all with.

The menu is pretty extensive. You can nosh on some tasty flatbread as you consider your many options.
Example lunch menu from Angelini Osteria in LA Crispy flatbread as part of the bread service from Angelini Osteria in LA

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Pasta in a Cheese Wheel in LA

Travel Tuesday is back, thanks to a recent trip to LA. These trips have been to visit family, so I prioritized being able to spend as much time with family, particularly my new niece who turns 6 months old at the end of March, and her schedule of feedings and naps. Generally this meant food at home via delivery or take out and leftovers from lunch – and I try to keep my asks reasonable at maybe 2 restaurants I want to try out each visit. Recently, the big one on my list was to eat pasta finished in a cheese wheel, which I found is offered at lunch and dinner at Forma Restaurant in Santa Monica.

Forma is named after cheese and all about the cheese. Their cheese bar offers more then 50 cheeses, breaking up the cheese sectiosn based on hardness (soft ripened, washed rind, semi-soft, semi-hard) and a whole section for just truffled cheese (cheese with white or black truffle). They have a few US cheeses from California, Vermont, Wisconsin, New York, and Oregon, but most are imported from Italy, France, Holland, England and Spain. This does not count the fresh cheeses like burrata and the mozzarella knots that you can also find in their small plates section. Of course I got burrata. This is the Burrata Stracciata with creamy burrata, prosciutto, plum ad citrus conserva, and micro basil.
Forma Restaurant offers an impressive cheese bar with more then 50 cheeses, a few from the US but mostly from France, Italy, Spain, England, and Holland, but also a few fresh cheeses not part of that 50 count on their small plates menu such as mozzarella knots or this dish of Burrata Stracciata with creamy burrata, prosciutto, plum ad citrus conserva, and micro basil

We ordered another starter of Filet Mignon Tartare, a dish of avocado, fresno chile pepper, capers, shallot, parmigiano, on grilled bread. I was really happy to see them go to the cheese bar in the back to freshly shave the parmigiano from the cheese wheel and bury these toasts in them!
At Forma Restaurant Filet Mignon Tartare, a dish of avocado, fresno chile pepper, capers, shallot, parmigiano, on grilled bread. I was really happy to see them go to the cheese bar in the back to freshly shave the parmigiano from the cheese wheel and bury these toasts in them

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My Visit to LACMA

I spent the holiday in LA this past December visiting my new niece, and my mom and two other siblings joined me in visiting baby Alexandra and her parents. There were many great laid back days full of morning audiences with her after her breakfast milk and poop, and cuddles as she took her nap, and cheering her on during tummy time, and playing the co-op videogame Overcooked. We also did some cooking, and take-out. As much as I adore baby cheeks though and the brief outings to get food, I knew I would get stir crazy. So there was one afternoon I also spent a few hours visiting LACMA, aka The Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Collaborative Art outside of LACMA from various people who had a visit to LACMA who left their admission ticket/sticker on various poles on Wilshire

I recommend this area for anyone and everyone. Even if you don’t pay admission to see the inside of the museum, there are lots of free sights in the park in the surrounding area – I went back to walk in the park several times staying in the free areas. Here are the details of my visit to LACMA and sights I recommend and which I saw during my visit to LACMA.

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New Year’s Eve in Japan: Oji Fox Parade

Last year in December 2015, we spent Christmas and New Year’s in Japan. I’ve already covered previously some of the amazing Winter Illuminations that you can see during the winter season and that they have the lights not just for the December timed holidays. I also recommended that the winter season is a great time to visit the snow monkeys in the hot springs, and since winter is more clear a perfect time to stay at an onsen with a view of Mt Fuji. If you are there specifically during New Year’s time, I want to now add the recommendation of checking out a unique New Year’s Eve in Japan event of the Oji Fox Parade.

Unlike in the United States and many other countries, New Year’s Eve in Japan is not celebrated with big parties and fireworks and midnight kisses. You can find some parties at establishments that cater more to foreigners – for instance we stopped by a beer bar seemed to have a lot of expats and English speakers. Goodbeer Faucets, located only a few blocks away from Shibuya station in Tokyo, usually is already a fun visit with their 40 taps of beer. For New Year’s Eve, they were hosting a Drink It All Party where as their taps started to kick (aka become empty of that beer) the cost of all beer overall that evening would decrease. Pretty fun idea for a bar party.
On New Year's Eve 2015, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend On New Year's Eve 2015, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend

New Year’s time in Japan is one of the most important holidays of the year. It’s seen as a time to prepare a fresh clean start, and time to be with family. On New Year’s Day itself, millions visit the shrines to pray for luck and a good new year. For some that may include lining up on New Year’s Eve not to party, but to just stand in line to await visiting the shrine as soon as it turns midnight.

In Tokyo, there is an area called Oji (serviced by a conveniently named Oji Station). According to a local folk tale, foxes gather in this Oji area from all over Japan on New Year’s Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit a shrine located here called Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event. It shows the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year’s Eve to pay homage to Inari, Shinto god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did.
There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event showing the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year's Eve to pay homage at the Ōji Inari shrine, the headquarters of the Inari cult that centers on the god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way to Ōji, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did. There is a famous piece of art by Utagawa Hiroshige during the 1797–1858 Edo period depicting this event showing the foxes (kitsune) gathering at a tree on New Year's Eve to pay homage at the Ōji Inari shrine, the headquarters of the Inari cult that centers on the god of the rice field, for whom the fox serves as messenger. On the way to Ōji, the foxes have set a number of kitsunebi (foxfires), which farmers count to predict the upcoming rice harvest. You may see versions of the art around the area like we did.
New Year’s Eve Foxfires at the Changing Tree, Ōji by artist Utagawa Hiroshige

Every year on New Year’s Eve, a Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held that goes from Shozoku Inari-Jinja Shrine and Oji Inari-Jinja Shrine.
Doll version of the parade. According to a local folk tale, foxes gathered the Oji area from all over Japan on New Year's Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held every year since 1993 in an effort to integrate old culture into the new community. Shrine-goers parade the streets holding chochin lanterns representing the light of life and the light of hope, and wishing for the sound growth and happiness of the children. Doll version of the parade. According to a local folk tale, foxes gathered the Oji area from all over Japan on New Year's Eve, disguised in human costume, to visit Oji Inari-jinja Shrine. Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade is held every year since 1993 in an effort to integrate old culture into the new community. Shrine-goers parade the streets holding chochin lanterns representing the light of life and the light of hope, and wishing for the sound growth and happiness of the children.
Doll version of the Oji Kitsune-no-gyorestu Fox Parade displayed by Oji Station

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Visiting Gekkeikan Sake

Last week I highlighted in Folsom checking out the Folsom Prison Museum. This time I’m highlighting another local sight – and it’s free! This stop is to do a self-guided tour of the sake brewery and enjoy free limited sampling of the sake at Gekkeikan Sake. Located at 1136 Sibley Street in Folsom, they are open 9 AM – 4:30 PM Monday through Friday and 11 AM – 3 PM on the second Saturday of the month. A visit will probably take about an hour or less.
Gekkeikan Sake USA was founded in Folsom in 1989, its first brewing facility outside of Japan and you can do a free self guided tour of the brewery and try sake samples here. This is located at 1136 Sibley Street in Folsom

Gekkeikan was founded in 1637 in Japan, though the name Gekkeikan was not established until 1905. Gekkeikan USA was founded in Folsom in 1989, its first brewing facility outside of Japan. Folsom was selected because of its access to quality air and water from the American River and rice from the rice fields in the Central Valley and nearby Sacramento Valley.

To do the self guided brewery tour, you will have to walk through the first building because the door to the brewery is in the second building in the back. You will turn around to retrace your steps and walk back this way to visit the sake tasting room on the way out back to the parking lot. Restrooms are also located only in this first building. In this hallway, you can get a quick overview of the brewing process – both the traditional way in a display case with figures and on the wall a summary of the high level manufacturing process.
Figures showing the multiple steps in the process of brewing sake, in a display case when visiting Gekkeikan USA in Folsom Figures showing the multiple steps in the process of brewing sake, in a display case when visiting Gekkeikan USA in Folsom Gekkeikan SakeUSA was founded in Folsom in 1989, its first brewing facility outside of Japan and you can do a free self guided tour of the brewery and try sake samples here. This is located at 1136 Sibley Street in Folsom

Between the two buildings outside, you can enjoy some of the atmosphere of the landscaping with reflecting pond and koi pond before entering the brewery building.
A look at the peaceful setting at Gekkeikan Sake USA in Folsom with the landscape and koi pond A look at the peaceful setting at Gekkeikan Sake USA in Folsom with the landscape and koi pond A look at the peaceful setting at Gekkeikan Sake USA in Folsom with the landscape and koi pond

The self guided tour of the brewery is essentially just one long hallway, with windows and signs next to them looking into different parts of their equipment and process sequentially, from first starting with the uncooked rice all the way down to the bottling and packing for shipment. Here are a few photos from that tour.
Hallway for the free self guided tour with windows and signs next to them looking into different parts of their equipment and process sequentially, from first starting with the uncooked rice all the way down to the bottling and packing for shipment at the Gekkkeikan Sake Brewery in Folsom While self touring the brewery facility at Gekkeikan, you learn about the koji making process. Part of the steamed rice is used to make koji by cooling the steamed rice to 80 degrees, then spreading aspergillus oryzae which is fed into a state of the art computer controlled koji making machine to adjust temperature and humidity to optimal conditions. Within 2 days, the koji will be produced. In order to make sake, two highly effective micro-organisms are utilized- aspergillus oryzae and yeast. The former is used to produce a saccharifying enzyme which converts rice starch to dextrose.

There are certainly a lot of similarities to beer brewing. Like beer, sake is fermented multiple times (for instance, wine is fermented only once) to convert sugar to alcohol. Both are grain based (rice for sake obviously vs barley and other grains like rye, etc. for beer) and yeast is needed to convert dextrose into alcohol. However, to get dextrose, for sake brewing koji is used to produce a saccharifying enzyme which converts rice starch to dextrose.
Free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom - this portion is the seed mash process, where a large quantity of yeast is needed to convert dextrose into alcohol. Seed mash is made by adding water, steamed rice, and koji to a small amount of yeast Free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom - this portion is the lab where they are testing and doing quality control

I was mesmerized by the bottling – lining up and riding along to where they get filled, capped, and then labeled to then be put in boxes.
Bottling process for the sake that can be seen during the free self guided brewery tour at Gekkkeikan Sake in Folsom, California Bottling process for the sake that can be seen during the free self guided brewery tour at Gekkkeikan Sake in Folsom, California Bottling process for the sake that can be seen during the free self guided brewery tour at Gekkkeikan Sake in Folsom, California Bottling process for the sake that can be seen during the free self guided brewery tour at Gekkkeikan Sake in Folsom, California

This short video is the first part of the line with the empty bottles in the front but in the back you can see the line loops back around in a U and the sake workers are preparing to package them

Here’s a video where I zoom in a bit and you can see the empty bottles lining up then being filled with sake, and then as it goes into the second circle it gets capped!

Then return to the tasting room where you can see choose 5 of their sake portfolio to sample and look at other Japanese decor.
After the free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom return to the tasting room where you can see choose 5 of their sake portfolio to sample and look at other Japanese decor. After the free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom return to the tasting room where you can see choose 5 of their sake portfolio to sample and look at other Japanese decor. After the free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom return to the tasting room where you can see choose 5 of their sake portfolio to sample and look at other Japanese decor. After the free self tour of the sake brewing process at Gekkeikan Sake in Folsom return to the tasting room where you can see choose 5 of their sake portfolio to sample and look at other Japanese decor. Tasting room at Gekkeikan Sake USA in Folsom. Kagami-biraki is a ceremony performed at celebratory events in which the lid of the sake barrel is broken open by a wooden mallet and the sake is served to everyone present. Kagami refers to the lid of the sake barrel and biraki means to open. Because of the round shape, the kagami is a symbol of harmony and kagami-biraki represents an opening to harmony and good fortune

Gekkkeikan Sake is one of I think a dozen US locations of sake brewing in the US. If you are a fellow Oregon citizen like me right now, you can also tour and taste at Sake One in Forest Grove, but otherwise you might be able to visit a couple others in California. Not all sake breweries are open for tours or tastings. For another way to try tasting a lot of sakes, I also want to encourage you to look into Sake Fest PDX– I wrote a post about last year’s Sake Fest earlier this year, and expect another post next year about how the 2016 Sake Fest experience was a bit closer to its date for 2017, June 11, 2017 5:30-9 PM at the Oregon Convention Center!

Finally, one of my favorite things I learned while sampling sake is that their website has a free Gekkkeikan sake cookbook with recipes! During Thanksgiving a Japanese guest brought rice cooked with sake and mushrooms and we loved it, and I can’t wait to do a little more cooking with sake soon.

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