Santa Fe Art Scene: Enjoying the Southwest Arts

Besides the easy hikes outdoors like Bandolier, Plaza Blanca and Kasha-Katuwe, another fun activity we enjoyed while in Santa Fe was enjoying the Southwest Arts. There a couple main art focused destinations I would highly recommend for enjoying the Santa Fe Art Scene, plus I also threw in a peek at Taos where we took a side trip as well.

Keshi in Santa Fe

In downtown Santa Fe, Keshi The Zuni Connection is a little co-op store that offers arts and crafts directly from the artists. The store has direct, personal relationships with all the individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. The relationships mean that not only can Keshi dedicate particular parts of shelves to that artist, but they can speak knowledgeably about their past work, what they are working on now, and what are the little quirks or special touches that differentiates their pieces. The list of artists they work with is impressive so you will have a huge variety of styles. Those relationships are what inspire “The Zuni Connection” part of the store name.

Keshi the Zuni Connection store is named so because of its close ties with the people of the Zuni Pueblo. Established in 1981 as a co-op for Zuni arts and crafts, Keshi has always maintained personal relationships with individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world Keshi the Zuni Connection store is named so because of its close ties with the people of the Zuni Pueblo. Established in 1981 as a co-op for Zuni arts and crafts, Keshi has always maintained personal relationships with individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world

They also know the Zuni stories and symbolism that inspires or gives special meaning to any of the pieces. And, they offer lots of small pieces, in particular Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world. Fetishes are small carvings using a variety of possible materials although all sorts of pretty stone is very popular. The carvings will usually depict an animal spirit, each which embody different personality traits and symbols.

Keshi the Zuni Connection store is named so because of its close ties with the people of the Zuni Pueblo. Established in 1981 as a co-op for Zuni arts and crafts, Keshi has always maintained personal relationships with individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world

I definitely love the direct artist connection, and the other thing I love about Keshi is that all their pieces are also affordable – ranging from pottery to fetishes to jewelry, small paintings, or other carvings like my particular interest were kachina dolls. To me, this makes Keshi even more approachable than any art gallery because it is accessible to regular people’s price points.

Keshi the Zuni Connection store is named so because of its close ties with the people of the Zuni Pueblo. Established in 1981 as a co-op for Zuni arts and crafts, Keshi has always maintained personal relationships with individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world

Entering the store may seem overwhelming at first because there are so many small pieces – but just take your time browsing as the staff are great at leaving you alone to see what calls to you, but also helping you like you’re a regular dear customer. Almost everything is on open shelves so you can really examine the craftsmanship.

Keshi the Zuni Connection store is named so because of its close ties with the people of the Zuni Pueblo. Established in 1981 as a co-op for Zuni arts and crafts, Keshi has always maintained personal relationships with individual carvers, jewelers, and potters and continues to buy directly from the Zuni people. Keshi hosts one of the largest selections of Zuni fetishes in the world

Canyon Road in Santa Fe

In Santa Fe, there are several options for little streets of offering art. In downtown Santa Fe, besides the multiple museums there are also quite a few fine art galleries, though the price range is more suitable for collectors you can of course still visit and admire the pieces. Outside of the Palace of the Governers, you will also usually find Native Americans displaying their handmade jewelry, including lots of turquoise and silver. For more modern galleries with contemporary art, you might also visit the Santa Fe Railyard which is also where they host the Farmer’s Market on Saturdays year round, as well as local artist markets and a “Last Friday Art Walk” every month with 10 galleries..

My favorite art neighborhood though in Santa Fe was walking down Canyon Road. This one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. The variety of price ranges and types of art varies widely which makes it an adventure every time you step into a new doorway. And there were plenty of galleries that had stunning sculptures outside as part of a sculpture garden so you could even enjoy just walking outside. We were also there during the fourth Friday of the month, when galleries open later until 7 PM and some offer refreshments and or entertainment. Here’s a look at some of the artistic works we admired on Canyon Road.
Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Checking out art along Canyon Road in Santa Fe, the goats by Carole Laroche Gallery Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. These sleeping bears are outside Sage Creek Gallery Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants. Art on display outside as you traverse Canyon Road, this one half mile offers more than a hundred Galleries, Artist Studios, Jewelers, Boutiques and Restaurants.

This Canyon Road Contemporary Art was my favorite gallery because of the way they curated whimsical pieces and mixed media. And, I appreciate galleries that have a presence online so even though it’s been months since I visited, I can still visit and see what they have and still dream of purchasing pieces and continue to track artists that I really like. Here you see art from Pat Hobaugh with the retro toys, Amanda Banker with the paintings with a new fairy tale twist (and each painting comes with a paragraph to start the story), Molly Heizer with those cute animal ceramics and totem pole, and the Giraffe by Adam Thomas Rees which is composed of individual printed stamp blocks which he then assembles into a larger sculpture.
Canyon Road Contemporary was my favorite gallery, because of the way they curated whimsical pieces and mixed media. And, I appreciate galleries that have a presence online so even though it's been months since I visited, I can still visit and see what they have and still dream of purchasing pieces. Here you see art from Pat Hobaugh with the toys Canyon Road Contemporary was my favorite gallery, because of the way they curated whimsical pieces and mixed media. And, I appreciate galleries that have a presence online so even though it's been months since I visited, I can still visit and see what they have and still dream of purchasing pieces. Here you see art from Amanda Banker with the paintings with a new fairy tale twist, Molly Heizer with the fun animal sculptures and totems Canyon Road Contemporary Art was my favorite gallery, because of the way they curated whimsical pieces and mixed media. And, I appreciate galleries that have a presence online so even though it's been months since I visited, I can still visit and see what they have and still dream of purchasing pieces. Here you see art from Molly Heizer with the fun animal sculptures and totems Giraffe by Adam Thomas Rees at Canyon Road Contemporary which is composed of individual printed stamp blocks which he then assembles into a larger sculpture.

Taos

The drive up north from Santa Fe to Taos is very scenic, taking about 1.5 hours from Santa Fe, or 2.5 hours from Albuerquerque. But if you’re not in a rush to get there, I recommend you take the High Road one way (Route 68) through the valleys and canyons, and on the way back take the faster River Road / Low Road instead (518).  Both roads offer scenic panoramic views.

On the way to Taos, we whet our whistle at Blue Heron Brewing and Winery, a tiny little stop on Los Alamos Highway
On the way to Taos, we pulled over to try Blue Heron Brewing. We shared a beer tasting tray

Then we went to a full lunch with beer once we arrived in Taos at Eske’s Brew Pub for green-chile beer and a green-chile smothered burrito . As we admired the little muffin tray that they were using as their beer sampler tray, F as a vegetarian had an opportunity to try Green Chile in vegetarian form. Eske’s offers a Green Chili Burrito with a whole wheat tortilla filled with beans, onions, and cheddar smothered in Wanda’s Green Chile Stew. The vegetarian chile, with its huge chunks of carrots, zucchini and other goodies, is an unusual form of green chile.
<We stopped for more beer and lunch at Eske's Brew Pub. Nice tasting tray here - a muffin tin with a few decorative elements... We stopped for more beer and lunch at Eske's Brew Pub, where he had a Green Chili Burrito with a whole wheat tortilla filled with beans, onions, and cheddar smothered in Wanda's Green Chile Stew. We knew we wanted to have a pint of green-chile beer and a green-chile smothered burrito at Eske's Brew Pub & Eatery – the vegetarian chile, with its huge chunks of carrots, zucchini and other goodies, is unusual

While in Taos browse this cute small town’s various art galleries, all which are in walking distance and which are offer a large variety of art, and the prices are pretty reasonable.
A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a cute small town A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a cute small town A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a cute small town A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a cute small town

Asking about the art can also just be great education in learning the stories. For instance, I learned a lot about Corn Maidens. At Bryans Gallery I learned that there are eight Corn Maidens: the Maiden of the West has a tray of blue corn, the Maiden of the East has white corn, the Maiden of the North has yellow corn, the Maiden of the South has red corn, one Maiden carries black corn, and another carries multi colored corn. Zuni Corn Maidens are carved by hand from a number of materials that range from antler, turquoise, sugarlite, quartz, shell, fossilized ivory, coral, lapis lazuli, amber, and other stones. And, they even had detailed sheets explaining the meaning of various fetishes.

A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a small town - corn maidens at Bryans Gallery. There are eight Corn Maidens: the Maiden of the West has a tray of blue corn, the Maiden of the East has white corn, the Maiden of the North has yellow corn, the Maiden of the South has red corn, one Maiden carries black corn, and another carries multi colored corn. Zuni Corn Maidens are carved by hand from a number of materials that range from antler, turquoise, sugarlite, quartz, shell, fossilized ivory, coral, lapis lazuli, amber, and other stones. A look around Taos and the various small art galleries and shops in what feels like a small town - Bryans Gallery had a great sheet explaining fetishes and their meanings

On the way back or whichever way you are goign on the River Road / Low Road, you might consider a stop at Chimayo Weavers to look at their handwoven blankets you can purchase or that are in display at the tapestry gallery. 

I don’t always think to visit art galleries when I travel – I did so in Las Vegas and here in Santa Fe intentionally because I knew about the great art scene. What about you, do you try to visit art galleries when you travel? What did you think of any the pieces I shared with you today that I saw on my art stops and walks?

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

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Kasha Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

In my last two posts about the splendor of the hikes you can take around Santa Fe, I headed north of Santa Fe where we scrambled up and down ladders at Bandelier National Monument, and then another day head towards the stark inspirational beauty of Plaza Blanca.  Our third and final hiking excursion during our stay was to Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, which is between Santa Fe and Albuquerque and about an hour away if you start at either of those cities.

What makes this hike fun is that it’s a relatively easy hike that includes walking through (and a few climbing over rocks) in the slot canyons as well as hiking up to the top of the cliffs for some stunning views of the rocks from bottom to top, if you take the 1.5 mile each way Canyon Trail to the overlook 630 feet up. Then on the way back join up with the rest of the 1.2 mile round trip easy Cave Loop and take the other fork to circle back to the parking area, which also takes you past a man made cave.

What makes this hike special are the the unique rock formations that are tent like, giving Kasha Katuwe Tent Rocks their name. Kasha Katuwe means White Cliffs in the language of the Cochiti Pueblo people – you drive through some of their tribal lands to get here. We visited on a day after a huge rainstorm, and so the rocks still were retaining the moisture which resulted in more color and being able to really see the geologic layers of all the many thousands of years before us.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers

Walking through the canyons on Canyon Trail, you’ll be able to see the details of these layers up close.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 40 miles S of Sante Fe. Kasha-Katuwe means White Cliffs in the Keresan language of the nearby Cochiti Pueblo. It so happened that there was a big rain storm system that went through earlier in the week though, so instead of being white there is some color in the rock from the absorbed moisture that show off the layers

Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, taking the Canyon Trail Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, taking the Canyon Trail

Walking through the canyons, they eventually get tighter into the slot canyons. When you visit, do be aware of any storm systems as slot canyons can be susceptible to flash flooding so take precautions. We saw the trails left behind from the flows of water the day before, but it was all dry for us with some areas of mud for the hike. Of course we weren’t visiting during monsoon season, and I still checked weather reports for flash flood risk.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time

There may be a few points which require a little climbing over rocks and under a boulder to get through, one person at a time. That just makes it more fun, right?
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Part of the trail is going to incude going through some slot canyons that some points require a little scrambling or fit only one person at a time

After the slot canyon section, you will come to the clearly formulated tent rocks. The cloudy skies cleared for us and provided a brilliant New Mexico blue sky contrasting background. The tent features of the rocks, also called hoodoos, might bring to mind the otherworldly “fairy chimneys” of Cappadocia in Turkey, which is the only other place in the world with these formations. In both cases, it was volcanic activity that then eroded over time into the cliffs, canyons, and cones of softer pumice and tuff.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

Sometimes the softer rock portion is topped by a harder caprock, often resulting in fascinating rocks that appear to be barely balanced.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument were formed by volcanic activity that then eroded over time into the cliffs, canyons, and cones of softer pumice and tuff often topped by a harder caprock, often resulting in fascinating rocks that appear to be barely balanced. Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument were formed by volcanic activity that then eroded over time into the cliffs, canyons, and cones of softer pumice and tuff often topped by a harder caprock, often resulting in fascinating rocks that appear to be barely balanced.

And you may even see shapes that you recognize in the rock formations, similar to seeing shapes in clouds… I felt like I was passing guardians along the path at both these points here.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Some of the structures have caprocks perched on top of them; an amazing balancing act on the part of Mother Nature. This one looked like a little person Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Some of the structures have caprocks perched on top of them; an amazing balancing act on the part of Mother Nature. This one looked like a little person

As you begin to ascend steeply at one point on the trail, you get a chance to see the tent rocks from bottom to top to from above as you continue to walk up the path. The top of the mesa affords you a view over the Tent Rock formations,  down Peralta Canyon and across to the far away Sangre de Cristo and Jemez Mountains. This was my favorite view of the hike.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Now we are going up a pretty steep part of the hike so that we get a chance to see the tent rocks from above on the cliffs. Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Now we are going up a pretty steep part of the hike so that we get a chance to see the tent rocks from above on the cliffs. Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Now we are going up a pretty steep part of the hike so that we get a chance to see the tent rocks from above on the cliffs. Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. Now we are going up a pretty steep part of the hike so that we get a chance to see the tent rocks from above on the cliffs.

Here is the  famous view of the Tent Rocks at Kasha-Katuwe and the gorgeous landscape for miles and miles around us.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. The reward for those steep rock stairs - a view of the tent rocks from above, and the gorgeous landscape for miles and miles around us Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. The reward for those steep rock stairs - a view of the tent rocks from above, and the gorgeous landscape for miles and miles around us

There’s a few more cool spots as you walk towards the end of the trail before you turn around go back and look down from the top at some of the canyons you had walked through earlier and also see a few more formations.

Looking into the canyon of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument from the cliff top. Looking into the canyon of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument from the cliff top. Looking into the canyon of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument from the cliff top.

As you head back, you should get back on the other half of the Cave Loop trail where it branched, you follow it so that you will eventually get to where can view a manmade cave. The cave still has blackened walls from cooking fires, and notice how it’s high off the ground for safety from animals an weather and enemies.
Cave at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Cave at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Cave at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

Then when you are almost at the parking lot you will walk past more tent rocks which are more triangular and almost like teepees. I swear there’s a face in one of them…
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Rock Face at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

In the parking lot, besides a self pay station for the park admission, there is a restroom, as well as several picnic tables for eating before or after your hike if you wish. There are animal friends around hoping you will picnic.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument wildlife friend we encountered by the parking lot by the trailhead Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument wildlife friend we encountered by the parking lot by the trailhead

On the trail we encountered 3 other wildlife “friends”. I would not call them my friends, but F was pleased. This is pretty consistent with all our hikes – he’s always looking for all wildlife while I’m mesmerized by the views and getting them from different angles.
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument wildlife friend we encountered on the trail Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument wildlife friend we encountered on the trail

As I said before, of our 3 nature day trips, this was the most fun for hiking because of the variety in the path. We rewarded ourselves on our way back to Santa Fe by stopping at Duel Brewery, which specializes in Belgian style beers .They also have a tasting room under construction in Albuquerque,, so check for an update on their website because you might find it on your way to stop by too even if driving back to ABQ instead. The tasting room we visited at Parkway Drive in Santa Fe also showcases lots of paintings. They offer some light food of cheese, meat or vegetable plates to go with the beer.
Duel Brewing and Taproom specializes in Belgian Style beers. They also had a large variety of art in their tasting room. Duel Brewing and Taproom specializes in Belgian Style beers. They also had a large variety of art in their tasting room. Duel Brewing and Taproom specializes in Belgian Style beers. They also had a large variety of art in their tasting room. Duel Brewing and Taproom specializes in Belgian Style beers. They also had a large variety of art in their tasting room. Duel Brewing and Taproom specializes in Belgian Style beers.

What do you think of the tent rocks? Have you been to New Mexico before, what was your favorite day trip or hike? Of the three easy hiking day trips I’ve now shared, which sounds or looks most appealing to you?
Looking into the canyon of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument from the cliff top.

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

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Santa Fe Travels: Visiting Plaza Blanca

Last week, I mentioned how we had a wonderful day at Bandelier National Monument. We had to park at the White Rock Visitors Center and take the required free shuttle to Bandelier. When we returned, while stopping at the visitor center for a quick bio break before the drive (I have never regretted, whenever there is a restroom available on car trips, stopping in if we’re already parked, just in case. Nope, never.) While there, we stopped and spoke with the knowledgeable people at the information desk on recommended other sights to see. Plaza Blanca was one I asked about as I had wonderful reviews on Tripadvisor, but there was precious little information on visiting Plaza Blanca logistics.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

They drew out on a map for us how to get there, as well as giving us a few other tips. When you are visiting a new place, I always like stopping at visitor centers. I browse through the brochures becomes sometimes eye candy can attract me to a new sight I hadn’t known of, there may be coupons for places I’m planning on going to anyway, and asking the locals who are in the know may reveal unique adventures off the regular beaten path.

The land belongs to Dar Al Islam Mosque, who generously allows people to still visit with no charge. When you arrive at the area, there will be a fork – the left goes to Dar Al Islam Mosque, while the right will go to a small area where you can park and walk to Plaza Blanca. It will be a gravelly bumpy road. When you first park, the view will probably look similar to this.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. When you first park in the area to the right of the fork from Dar Al Islam Mosque, this may be your initial view Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. When you first park in the area to the right of the fork from Dar Al Islam Mosque, this may be your initial view

The Plaza Blanca sign is the best you’ll get in confirming you’re at the right spot.
Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area.

But walk a little bit farther and you’ll recognize the formations. It is not a difficult walk, but don’t expect any marked trails, though there are worn pathways you can see.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations

These various formations in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O’Keeffe, such as in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas. There are various other White Place art pieces as well.
The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area.

The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations. And the formations of the rocks twist, turn, and reach for the sky in different ways. Some seem scarred from battle.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations

Other rock formations seem like they are trying to soar

The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. The formations here in Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area.

Others rocks are steadfastly observing the passage of time and seem so solid, but walk around another side and seem precariously stacked and tease with nooks and crannies you want to peer into.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

We almost had the area all to ourselves except for only three other cars during our visit. F and I probably spent a couple hours here, just mesmerized by the formations and the juxtapositions of shapes and colors. I can understand how Georgia O’Keeffe loved to look at this from her window, walk here, and even camp here, and naturally, paint here with so much inspiration everywhere.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

And I still can’t get over how the sky in New Mexico is so brilliantly blue.

Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

Plaza Blanca also a great area to explore exploration of forms in black and white photography.
Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. It was first in From the White Place, 1940, oil on canvas, that she showcased the amazing forms of this area. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is located near Abiquiu, NM. The formations here were an inspiration for paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe.

There are not words to fully explain the quiet beauty that Plaza Blanca offers, a feeling of isolation from the world, it’s like a secret treasure offering peacefulness and dramatic formations. It seems every few steps and a turn was so picturesque in a new way.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

Plaza Blanca is about an hour north of Santa Fe in Abiquiu. You could make it a Georgia O’Keeffe themed day by visiting the museum in Santa Fe, driving to her Home and Studio for a tour in Abiquiu , and then getting away from the crowds at this secluded spot of Plaza Blanca a few miles away.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. The limestone rock formations rise to 500 feet in certain locations Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

I’m not sure if you can really tell the scale – here’s me really up close to some of the rocks to give you an idea how massive they are.
Providing a little scale of how large Plaza Blanca is in terms of height and width next to a person like me Providing a little scale of how large Plaza Blanca is in terms of height and width next to a person like me

Of course, be considerate of others, and leave no trace behind.
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

There are no facilities here – I think the closest restroom is at Bode’s General Store which also offers some comfort food like chile (in frito pie or chili fries form!), burritos, and sandwiches that you can enjoy here or take with you.

Are you a Georgia O’Keeffe fan? Would you seek out visiting some of her natural inspirations like Plaza Blanca?
Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe. Plaza Blanca is 1 hour away from Santa Fe. Plaza Blanca, known also as the White Place, is a magical area located near Abiquiu, NM that inspired Georgia O'Keeffe.

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

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Santa Fe Travels: Bandelier National Monument

I spent a week in Santa Fe, and was surprised at how much I really enjoyed it. I knew it would offer great arts, culture, and wonderful dining, but I underestimated it’s powerful combination of history and nature.

My first taste of this was visiting the famous Bandelier National Monument. Going in, I only knew they were ruins with some ladder climbing. Actually, Bandelier National Monument is a National Park that covers 33,000 acres that includes multiple signs of the people who have lived here in the past 11,000 years in various locations. They are open daily, year round, from dawn to dusk, and includes a campground (Juniper Campground) and a Visitor Center (9 AM -6 PM mid May – October, 9 AM -4:30 PM off peak season).

During this peak season, during peak times, the park limits congestion as well as pollutants by requiring in most cases visitors to take a free shuttle bus into the park with a few exceptions based on time, campers, and bicycles, going to other trails besides the main one (Main Loop Trail) for instance. There is ample parking by where the shuttle bus picks up at the White Rock Visitor Center, and by riding the bus you can enjoy some of the views on the way to the Bandelier Visitor Center.

Bus to Bandelier National Monument is required to limit congestion and pollutants during peak season, peak times Bus to Bandelier National Monument is required to limit congestion and pollutants during peak season, peak times

When we arrived, a park ranger was standing outside to greet our bus with a short welcome as well as telling us about the two main sites along the Main Loop Trail. Many people might only visit the village of Tyuonyi and Cliff Dwellings and turn around after an approximately 1 hour round trip and easy 1 1/4 mile total walk. Others like F and I went on for an extra 30 minutes and 1/2 mile each way to Alcove House which has a steep 140 foot climb on 4 ladders –  so definitely is not for those afraid of heights.

There is a little pamphlet the ranger pointed out that besides the $12 entrance fee for the park, that you can purchase for an additional $1 to give you more information about everything you see. I think the mini guide is highly worth the small additional fee as it gives you information at 21 numbered points along the Main Loop Trail.
Bandelier National Monument, arriving at the visitor center the bus was greeted by a ranger who gives a quick couple minute intro

Here’s a little look at some of the wonderful views while I’m still standing in the parking lot of the Bandelier Visitor Center… we haven’t even walked into the visitor center yet. Also make sure you do your bathroom stop here before you to go out as there are no facilities past the visitor center along the trails! There is also a small cafe for food and drinks if you wish.
Bandelier National Monument - view at the Visitors Center parking lot

The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon is volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. You can see then why this area was popular with the Ancestral Pueblo people (also known as Anasazi) who could use tools to enlarge openings and create stone dwellings.
The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance.

Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings

Let’s start with the Main Loop Trail towards Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings. This is the most popular route, a 1.2 mile loop trail that is easy and may take you an hour round trip and includes the 21 stops along Tyounyi pueblo and Cliff Dwellings before you loop back described in the $1 mini guide from the visitor center.

The first thing you will come across is a Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center. Back in the day, it would have been covered by a roof of wood and dirt that was plastered with mud strong enough so people could walk on it. and the roof itself is also supported by six wooden pillars. People would have entered the darkened underground room lit by torches by climbing a ladder down.
Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico, Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center

Not far after the kiva you will encounter the walls of the village of Tyuonyi, which is only one of several large puebelos inside the Bandelier National Monument. Tyuonyi was about two stories and four hundred rooms.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

You won’t see this view until you are further along the path, but I’ll show them now to help give you an idea of the size of Tyuonyi village.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

One of the fascinating thoughts I had was how Tyuonyi was constructed six hundred years ago – but at those same times, the caves were also occupied. You can even see the cliff dwellings now from Tyounyi – and the photos above were when I was at the cliff dwellings look back upon Tyuonyi. It makes you wonder what determined who lived in the caves or in the canyon. Family? Clan? Preference, like the way some people choose to live in the city and others in the suburbs?
Bandelier National Monument. In the forefront of the photo, the walls of the village of Tyuonyi. Even further back, you can see the walls of the Cliff Dwellings where there are cave rooms we are about to start walking towards. Tree ring dating shows the construction of these homes was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. In the forefront of the photo, the walls of the village of Tyuonyi. Even further back, you can see the walls of the Cliff Dwellings where there are cave rooms we are about to start walking towards. Tree ring dating shows the construction of these homes was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference

There’s a fork slightly after the Tyuonyi village where you can choose to go to the first set of Cliff Dwellings, called Talus Houses, but which have several stairs, or you can take the trail to the Cliff Dwellings called Long House that has fewer stairs. We visited both so you can see the difference between the two. The Talus Houses will have ladders to visit inside the dwellings, but the Cliff Dwellings will not.

The Cliff Dwellings in the Talus Houses area are many cave rooms / cavates and alcoves, often with ceilings blackened by soot to harden them, and perhaps some rock drawings. Be sure to stay on the trail and only enter caves that have ladders because you don’t want to contribute to eroding the tuff.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. Be sure to stay on the trail and only enter caves that have ladders because you don't want to contribute to eroding the tuff. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings.

And here’s another view of Tyounyi Village from the viewpoint of the Cave Dwellings
Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from one of the cavates of the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference

The trail here zig zags with stairs through the cliffs, and provides access to more dwellings. The Ancestral Pueblo were small people, averaging five feet for women and five feet six for men, and living to about 35 years. The fact that there are many homes in this row along the canyon wall made me wonder if it was humming with activity like the village of Tyuonyi, or maybe this was the quieter suburbs with slightly more privacy? Or was this the “city high rise” life of its time?
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings.

Some of the pathways were quite slim, fitting only one person. You can also see when we looked back why we were pretty much alone or only with a handful of people – there was a big storm on the horizon, including lightening. Fortunately the wind blew the storm a different direction past us. I didn’t encounter it until much later in the evening, while driving from back to our lodgings after a post hike stop at Santa Fe Brewing.
Looking back from the Talus Houses Cliff Dwellings in Bandelier National Monument at the storm on the horrizon, and the slim pathway fitting only one person we went through

Now we have arrived at the part of Cliff Dwellings known as Long House. These are multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. Extended families lived together with each group having their own storage room, sleeping quarters, and kiva. There are no ladders to visit any of these dwellings.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes.

Alcove House

Walk another 30 minutes, about 1/2 a mile one way, rather than turning around to return to the visitors center if you want to visit Alcove House. It’s an easy walk, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders – 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.

I did mention they were steep right? It’s the same way going up and down – only the ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area.

You are climbing to the top to reach a large alcove area.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area.

Eats and Drinks

On the way to Bandelier National Monument, consider stopping to eat before or after your visit at Gabriel’s. We happened to pick Gabriel’s to fuel us, and then went to Santa Fe Brewing Company (which is just a simple no frills tasting room with beer only) after the park visit.

Here’s the view just from the parking lot! There is some outdoor seating that has this view too. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area.
we stop for lunch at Gabriel's which had this view from their parking lot. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area Lunch at Gabriel's, just outside Santa Fe and on the way to Bandelier National Monument Lunch at Gabriel's, just outside Santa Fe and on the way to Bandelier National Monument  Lunch at Gabriel's, it was too cool outside to sit on the patio but there was a great view

I also loved how the inside is full of unique bold bright Southwest art with nods to nature, especially the ornamental birdhouses.
Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging

The complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole
Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole

For the vegetarian, you have choices like the vegetarian Black Bean Burrito with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and corn. Also available were vegetarian enchiladas tamales, and fajitas.
Lunch at Gabriel's, Black Bean Burritio with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and cor

I was tempted by multiple dishes but eventually picked out the Green Chili Stew (which I forgot to take a photo of, it was a chunks of pork and potatoes stewed in New Mexico green chile served with soft tortillas) and this Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese. I would definitely recommend Gabriel’s and would return myself for more of the menu that I was tempted by!
Lunch at Gabriel's, the Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese

Gabriel's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Have you been to New Mexico, or Santa Fe, or Bandelier National Monument? What do you think of the sights I shared at Bandelier? Would you go up and down the ladders of Alcove House?

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

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Japan Travel: Japan Eating Checklist

There are multiple types of Japanese food categories you should consider putting on your Japan Eats list when you travel to Japan. Here’s my recommendation for 25 Top Japanese Food Experiences, aka a Japan Eating Checklist, including some photos and links recaps of those meals to encourage you.

If there is a place in Portland that has a similar dining experience, I will also include it on this list in italics in case you are curious but aren’t going to Japan yet. You’re welcome.

Before getting to my Things to Eat in Japan list, there are two books in particular that I highly recommend reading if you are foodie heading to Japan. First, is What’s What in Japanese Restaurants: A Guide to Ordering, Eating, and Enjoying by Robb Satterwhite. I carried this book wherever we went in Japan.

What I found valuable about this book is that it is divided into chapters based on the type of cuisine, and it has a full listing of possible menu items you might see. Each menu item includes the transliteration into a Roman alphabet of a dish so you can pronounce it to a server, a Japanese character version of the dish to point to a server or to try to guess if looking at restaurant menu, and then the translation/description of the dish and ingredients used. This came handy several times even when there were English translated menus at a restaurant so we could see what something listed as “ginnan” is (ginkgo nuts it turns out). Very practical.

The other Japanese foodie book that had me drooling and inspired is Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan’s Food Culture by Matt Goulding. You don’t need to take this book along with you on the trip, but it’s great reading beforehand that gives history behind food and context behind some of the best food experiences in Japan with profiles behind restaurants, chefs, cities, and specific types of Japanese food. It is also just plain great storytelling and food writing. Reading each chapter is like a written version of a food and travel show in print.

Then, after getting the background, go to the accompanying free Roads and Kingdoms digital guide that lists out specific places to go to experience the food story yourself. Their curated list of where to eat and where to drink is seriously foodie legit.

Ok, here’s my ranked Top 25 Japanese Eating Experiences Checklist you should consider for your trip to Japan.

  1. Kaiseki Dinner, such as in a ryokan like we did is completely unique to Japan, admittedly can be a bit pricey but is so memorable. There is something you can only experience in Japan about sitting on a tatami mat in a yukata enjoying private room service with a table full of so many dishes like a buffet, before or after enjoying a soak in a hot spring. It will make you feel like the royalty and nobility that kaiseki originally was intended for.
    Traditional Dinner in our room at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, there were so many plates I would take a photo and then she'd be back with another dish to add! She mostly spoke Japanese so it was a bit mysterious eating each dish because I didn't know what everything was.
    Alternatively or additionally, you can also consider a kaiseki experience at a restaurant, including kaiseki which may be specialized such as ones that feature tofu like the one we had at Tousuiro, or ones that are completely Buddhist Vegetarian (also known as Shojin Ryori) like the one we had at Tenryuji in the Arashimaya area of Kyoto.
    Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course
    You should not be surprised at all to hear that if you want to eat the closest thing to kaiseki in PDX, I recommend that you should look to Nodoguro, which I have written about many times. Although they won’t serve your little dishes all at once like at a ryokan, they are the closest in crafting creative a similar experience, course by course like at a kaiseki restaurant. Another option for kaiseki in Portland is Chef Naoko, she does traditional Japanese presentations in red lacquered bento boxes, and she offers lunch too not just dinner.
  2. Sushi Breakfast near the Tsukiji Fish Market. This remains the best sushi and sashimi I’ve had in my life because that freshness and quality is difficult to beat, no matter how quickly any other sushi restaurant acquires their seafood because this is the premier fish market in the world. My version of this iwas dining at Sushi Dai, which I recapped here but there are many super fresh places in the Tsukiji area you can find without having to necessarily wait for hours or getting frustrated walking around lost trying to find a particular place.
    sashimi, Sushi Dai, Tokyo, Japan, Tsukiji Fish Market
    I say the closest to this kind of quality sushi you can get is through Nodoguro’s Hardcore Sushi Omakase. Another option is Fukami Sushiya which also does omakase.
  3. If you’re in Kyoto, definitely try tofu, especially Yudofu or Yuba, because Kyoto tofu is the best tofu in Japan and possibly the world. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd dish where you add some sauce and toppings and showcases it’s fresh and clean flavors. I highlighted Kyoto tofu in a previous post. In general, always ask and look for local specialties wherever you travel in Japan. Particular in Japan, they are not shy about promoting and they take pride in what is unique and special to their area.
    Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce
    Although they don’t offer cooked tofu dishes as they are not a restaurant, in PDX my favorite tofu source is Bui Tofu and F loves the prepackaged lemongrass tofu they offer. 
  4. I am pretty sure that at least 4-5 times a day we were stopping at the Japanese drink vending machines to get a beverage. I am so sad that in the US we don’t have anything like this on all the street corners like Japan does. Even when we were climbing Mount Takao, somehow many drink machines had been hauled up there to hydrate all visitors. The red labeled drinks mean that it is hot, and the blue labeled drinks mean they are cold. Not all of the containers may be drinks like water, tea, juice or coffee – some may be beer, sake, even curry or soup so look carefully! The machines usually either take money as well as you can just scan your transit card, which is very cool.
    The well loved drink machines that were everywhere in Japan, even partway up a mountain! Vending machines everywhere with beverages, but the Boss ones are my favorite
    In the US, I haven’t seen this kind of machine except in Hawaii. The closest you can get is to buy the iced coffee cans at Uwajimaya
  5. I have yet to have Tonkatsu, or a fried breaded pork cutlet, usually a filet or loin, in the US as good as what I’ve had in Japan. I think in Japan that they do a better job of sourcing high quality pork for the dish such as Kurobuta, also known as English Berkshire pork that is marbled with fat so it doesn’t dry out. I’ve had versions so flavorful and juicy I ate them with no sauce. The coating as you can see is thick, but it’s not greasy or oily.
    Tonkatsu, or a fried breaded pork cutlet that is so flavorful and juicy that I them as is without any sauce because the pork was sourced so well and was marbled
    In some cases besides the pork cutlet you can also get a combo that includes a minced patty or shrimp, sometimes you can also get chicken, cheese, and crab meat croquettes. Either way it is always served with a lot of shredded lettuce, miso soup, a few pickles, and rice. This so crispy outside and succulent inside is only good when fried fresh –  don’t shortcut to prepared boxes of Katsu at the store because it won’t be the same. However, just like me, once you have the perfect kind in Japan, you may be ruined for all other paler imitations in the US of tonkatsu now.Combo plate at Tonkatsu restaurant in Tokyo
    Unfortunately I don’t have any tonkatsu place that I can recommend in Portland – do you know of one? I know a few places offer it as a single dish (not different options of Tonkatsu where you can select from different pork or other items that are also fried in the same batter coating), but nothing that stands out to me… No one has that above perfect crispy coating texture that I’ve seen? One spot on my list to try offering Tonkatsu is Pono Farms, has anyone been? I’ve also enjoyed the potato croquettes at ramen stop Kizuki (formerly Kukai). The batter isn’t the same but you can reliably get pork Tonkatsu at Chef Naoko’s Shizuku
  6. Crepes in Japan can be found everywhere, but most famously in Tokyo in the trendy youthful fashionable neighborhood of Harajuku. The crepes are formed in a way that is mind boggling what they roll into there – not just fruit and whipped cream and chocolate sauce, but think also multiple scoops of ice cream, even a slice of cheesecake. It is more decadent that the flatter crepes on a plate inspired more from France, which is usually what you find in the US. In Japan, they roll the crepe all up in a cone of paper for you to eat instead of on a plate with silverware, which is fun. Famous stands like Angels Heart offer 75 different options to choose from.
    Too full for a crepe at Angels Heart in the Harajuku neighborhood of Tokyo, but I had to pose Famous Harajuku Crepes - yes there are a lot of combos, just 75 here at the famous Angels Heart crepe stand
    Meanwhile others like these from Momi & Toy’s in Tokyo Station offer classic as well as unique flavor combos, like the chestnut and pistachio crepe, and always reliable strawberry and cream before shopping Tokyo Character Street.
    I got a strawberry and cream crepe from Momi and Toy's at Tokyo Station chestnut and pistaschio crepe from Momi and Toy's at Tokyo Station before we (mainly me) shopped Tokyo Character Street
    Why are there not more options I’m Portland for this awesome dessert… I know of Mojo Crepe at SE 82nd and Division only offering Japanese style crepes in cones. Stop by and encourage them!
  7. Make an effort when in Japan to try Japanese Snacks along the street, especially by temples and shrines, like I covered in my previous Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines post. Since that was a whole checklist in of itself, follow the link over there for more details though my favorites tend to be Dango and Amazake which are pretty ubiquitious.
    Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains
    I don’t know of any equivalent in Portland unfortunately for the snacks except to visit a Japanese supermarket like Uwajimaya.
  8. Unlike most of Asia, there isn’t a strong street eating culture in Japan, so you won’t usually find food carts or outdoor food courts with open air eating from multiple vendors. So, if you are visiting and there is any kind of festival going on, make sure to stop and enjoy as there will likely be food booths at a Japanese festival!
    Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Japanese Chestnuts, freshly roasted Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode
    The next closest thing in Portland is to try to attend one of the Japanese festivals that sometimes occur such as the annual January/new year Mochi Festival August/summer Obon Festival. Travel Portland has a great list of Japanese American events.
  9. I’m not sure any explanation is necessary on why you should try ramen in Japan. There are so many styles and it varies by all the various prefectures, so even traveling from city to city in Japan you should check out the ramen. Variances include what exactly they do to create the broth, flavorings of the broth, type of noodle, what they do in creating the homemade noodles, and types of toppings offered that result in a huge matrix of possibilities. I cheated a bit and we went to the Ramen Museum as I posted about earlier in order to get a bunch of different ramen but all in one place, so that was a ramen theme park approach. Other options would be to visit a ramen street, such as at Tokyo Station or Kyoto Station to get access to multiple ramen places at once.
    The first ramen place we decide to try at Shin Yokohama Eamen Museum is at the shop Ryu Shanghai Honten, whose trademark is in its super-fat noodles folded over 32 times and that their spicy miso ramen is topped off with a scoop of the raw, spicy-hot miso Sumire which didn't offer vegetarian ramen. They are famous for their Miso Ramen, but I hit the wrong button and got the shoyu and didn't realize it until the ramen got served... oh well! This shoyu broth was still super delicious, and these were my favorite noodles
    In PDX, for authentic Japanese I like Marukin Ramen inside the city if you just want to focus on ramen (I covered all their ramens here), and Kizuki (formerly Kukai) in Beaverton for ramen along with additioanl izakaya dishes like rice balls, takoyaki, fried croquettes, etc. or Mirakutei if you want ramen and sushi or modern Japanese tapas like I had this visit. For inauthentic, I like Boke Bowl and make sure you get the buttermilk fried chicken with mustard aioli add on along with the slow poached egg and the pork belly – that’s the combo I always use since I’ve been a fan sice when they were still a pop up at Decarli and pop up at Oba.
  10. In other noodle news, you should consider having cold soba with a dipping sauce, which is called Mori Soba rather than when the noodles are already in a broth. Generally these restaurants will also offer udon. I prefer the soba with the dipping sauce because the soba noodle is served cooked and cold which helps me taste the noodles better, and is comforting without heating you up because of hot broth like ramen does. The most common broth accompanying the dish is in the first photo, Tsuyu, a broth/sauce made from mirin, dashi, and soy sauce that you add your desired amount of wasabi and scallions before dipping. For that particular dish (Zaru Tanuki Tororo Soba) it also came with tanuki which means served with tenkasu, crunchy bits of leftover fried tempura batter, and also tororo, gelatinous grated yam. The zaru designation means that the buckwheat soba noodles in the basket comes with seaweed on top.
    Zaru tanuki tororo soba, buckwheet soba noodles with seaweed on top (zaru soba) and a bowl with Tsuyu (a broth/sauce made from mirin, dashi, and soy sauce that you add wasabi and scallions to). Then there's tanuki which means served with tenkasu, crunchy bits of leftover fried tempura batter. And here we can also try tororo, gelatinous grated yam.
    This second version is my favorite version, Kurumi Soba which comes with a walnut miso dipping sauce. At the end we’re given a small container of warm water left from cooking the soba to add to the leftover Dipping Sauce to optionally finish the eating the sauce as a soup.
    soba restaurant for our last meal in Japan at the Haneda Airport. This was a cool soba dish that came with a walnut miso dipping sauce - Kurumi Soba
    I don’t know of any soba specialty restaurants in Portland, do you? The closest is Yuzu in Beaverton which offers 5 soba dishes. 
  11. If you are open to a little alcohol, check out yakitori izakayas, or drinking pubs featuring skewered charcoal grilled chicken. Yes, you can find yakitori also in the US, but I found the experience in Tokyo has a grit that just can’t be replicated. There’s something that feels so urban underworld about the famous izakaya alleys where there are multiple of these hole in the wall grilled meat and drinking joints, each one lit by a red lantern such as at Omoide Yokocho also known as Memory Lane or ‘Piss Alley (Go Tokyo has a great list of Yokocho). In reality you are more likely sitting with salarymen than yakuza though.
    Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns
    You should know that first and foremost these are drinking establishments, so order a drink! The food is a accompaniment to drinking, and don’t be surprised when you get thirsty eating as it is salty food. At some yakitori bars you are given a small dish or snack/otoshi that you did not order – it’s their way of justifying the forced per seat minimum charge. You should also be prepared to smell like smoke when you leave, and in some cases its’ a common bathroom outside because the bar itself is so small, fitting only a dozen people. Be also aware that there are lots of interesting meat types that may be on skewers so be cautious of just pointing at Japanese characters on a menu or chalkboard without a translation…
    Be also aware that there are lots of interesting meat types that may be on skewers at a yakitori drinking establishment so be cautious of just pointing at Japanese characters on a menu or chalkboard without a translation.
    You should definitely to make sure to get some chicken though there are also some vegetable options such as ginnan (gingko nuts) and egi (leeks). Many of the top chicken can be found at yakitori, as they may advertise the chicken DNA is heirloom or more than half native, and from small farms and free range – there are even specific regions that may be referenced that the chicken is from.
    Yakitori means chicken meat on skewers but it can include vegetables too like ginnan (gingko nuts), leeks, mushrooms and more My yakitori spread - the mayo-y pasta dish compulsory appetizer went really well with the smokey savory meats
    For yakitori in PDX I know of Biwa‘s and Shigezo / Maru, although the skewer selection is smaller than a Japanese dedicated yakitori place, and it feels too nice in there to be too boisterous like you would in a yakitori alley. But plus, it’s not in an alley!
  12. Whenever we were going on a hike like up Mount Takao or wanted to pack along snacks in our bag to carry with us, our constant companion was Onigiri. This is a staple you can find at all the convenience stores and also at department stores – my favorite was in Shinjuku at Momichi, which inside one of those incredible food basements (in this case Odakyu Department Store) was a counter that has 47 choices, 1 onigiri style/flavor from each province. I suggest you visit both Convenience Stores (Konbini) and Department Store Food Basements to soak up the regular Japanese citizen’s food shop, and then grab an onigiri or two or three for your bag.
    We hadn't prepared any snacks for the hike up Mount Takao but luckily we saw this Onigiri at Takaosanguchi Station when we disembarked from the train. Not all the convenience stores had translations so appreciated that this one at the train station did - Fred ate a lot of pickled plum ones through this trip
    Some stores will have English translations of the contents, but many do not so I printed out the Google Chrome translated version of the ones at Momichi with help from RocketNews24 article on eating all 47 and just checked off which ones we wanted to give to the counter lady. In convenience stores common flavors you will find are pickled plum, salmon, cod roe, spicy tuna, kelp, natto, and a seafood with mayo like tuna or shrimp (you can see a rough guess of the English and Japanse character by looking at this RocketNews24 article on top onigiri fillings).
    Dinner of Onigiri from Momochi (inside the Odakyu Department Store in the basement) in the hotel room resting our sore feet. This was the favorite from the Shiga province (the store has 47 choices, an onigiri style/flavor of 1 from each province). This is Salad Pan flavor, with rice instead of bread but otherwise is based on snack bread with mayonnaise and thinly chopped pickled daikon
    For onigiri in Portland, visit the cute teahouse and snack shop Behind the Museum Cafe right across from the Portland Art Museum or get takeout from Musubi. If you want to try it as part of a larger meal, check out Biwa or Kizuki (formerly Kukai).
  13. Kushikatsu or kushiage is a meal of breaded meat, fish, or/and veggies or cheese which are skewered, deep fried, and that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce and eat with cabbage leaves. It’s a bit like a fondue with oil, but they do all the smelly deep frying for you in the back and then rush it out to you. The sauce is in a communal container so double-dip is a big no no. You can order your skewer one at a time, or purchase a set that has an assortment like the one I had that included an additional side. I shared details about eating at the most famous of kushikatsu chains in  Osaka, Daruma, on my blogpost on Osaka previously. The pairing to eat with kushikatsu is usually an alcoholic beverage, like a whisky beverage or here I had shochu.
    Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. Since they bring you the skewers while they are freshly fried, I got some on one tray, and then a second tray appeared with the rest.
    Do you know where PDX offerings of kushikatsu or kushiage might be? I don’t 🙁
  14. Tempura in Japan is a meal of deep fried vegetables and seafood. There are restaurants in Japan where instead of an assortment of vegetables and perhaps some shrimp that you might normally get in the US with a tempura appetizer order, you can actually order by the piece. And, in Japan they make a concerted effort to get it to you while it’s hot, and they are much more conscientious than most places in the US in having just the right amount of batter but not too much, and not too long that it gets oily. I recommend starting with a set which will give you an initial foundation of some tempura, along with rice, pickles, and soup and then ordering additional pieces from there.

    The key is you want it as crispy as possible – this means as quickly from the vat to your mouth without burning your tongue, and only the slightest amount of dipping sauce so it doesn’t get soggy.  Because of the amount of deep fried a meal like this might be, having a beer whose carbonation and lightness can balance the tempura is also ideal. The batter is different, so tempura is a lot lighter kushikatsu.
    In PDX, the tempura a la carte menu I’m describing here can be found at the unassuming Takahashi Restaurant.
  15. Takoyaki are octopus dumplings, a street food representative of Osaka. Generally you will see takoyaki at a small food stand, being made hot and fresh from the special takoyaki grill. Be careful eating it – it’s hard to be patient, but if you aren’t you can burn your tongue pretty badly. Depending on the stand there may be a variety of possible special sauces or toppings you can add. I covered my takoyaki eating in Osaka previously and I also see it at booths at festivals like you see below too.
    Some of the festival food stands for Hagoita-Ichi Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion
    My recommendation is food cart Buki, as I’ve written about before. I appreciate that they specialize just like in Japan to focus on being good at takoyaki.
  16. Another Osaka specialty, but also often found at street stalls, is Okonomiyaki. Okonomiyaki is a kind of griddled Japanese pancake that includes batter, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients and toppings which vary but generally include okonomiyaki sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed flakes. You usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. I had it at Ajinoya in Osaka as I noted in my in Osaka post previously, but I also see it at booths at festivals like you see below too.
    Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table
    Unfortunately I don’t have any okonomiyaki place that I can recommend in Portland – why do you know of one? I know a few places offer it as a single dish but not with options like an Okonomiyaki joint in Japan would – as a single dish option you might consider Shigezo / Maru or Bamboo Sushi.
  17. Enjoy Japanese Curry, this one is from Coco Curry House which is a curry restaurant chain. Japanese curries are commonly eaten and are very homey, but are not generally found as often in the US so take advantage while in Japan to try some. They can be customized in terms of what kind of curry, what kind and number of toppings and what level of heat.
    Japanese Curry, this one is from Coco Curry House
    When it comes to Japanese curry in PDX I go to Kalé
  18. Sweets in Japan are created so artfully that sometimes it seems unreal – I can barely tell the difference between a plastic model and the real thing. There are a variety of different places to enjoy dessert, be it at a restaurant, in a cafe with coffee or tea, or even purchasing it from the department store basement food floors or from a store in a train station. Don’t miss out on these edible art that are available so casually. Make sure to eat a fancy Japanese dessert – they are so affordable.
    Staring at the beautiful desserts in the department store at Tokyo Station Staring at the beautiful desserts in the department store at Tokyo Station  A stop at Miyama Cafe for drinks and Tiramisu. I loved how ubiquitous it is to get green tea lattes with almond milk
    For specific Japanese take on dessert, look no further than Yume Confections or Mio’s Delectables. If you are looking for more of a dessert cafe, try artful desserts from Papa Haydn and Pix Patisserie which are more French.
  19. Conveyor Belt Sushi – now automated! Conveyor Belt Sushi restaurants are essentially like fast food dining in which you sit at a counter.  A tap at your seat provides hot water for green tea, and usually you have a motorized parade of sushi plates that you just grab whenever one catches your eye, or it may be the kind you order from a screen. Stack the plates as you eat because you will be charged based on the number of plates, with certain color plates representing different price points.
    Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Let's not kid that this is the best sushi in Tokyo- it's just a more techie version of conveyer belt sushi that lets you tailor your order to get what you want and reduce waste for them. I picked out going to lunch at Genki Sushi in Shibuya. The spout to the right is for hot water for green tea and is located at every seat
    It may not be as fresh as experience #2 above by Tsukiji market, but prices are reasonable, and if you go at a busy time where they keep making new dishes, or one where they make it to order, it will still be pretty fresh. Now, the latest upgrade on the conveyor belt parade is automated delivery of specific sushi. We went to Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual tablet screens at your seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train programmed to stop directly at your seat. With three tracks, food came out very fast. And, because each was a specific order they offered a HUGE menu of dishes we could choose from.
    I picked out going to lunch at Genki Sushi in Shibuya. I picked this place because I read how they have a large selection and more importantly, they use Android tablets at each seat that includes other languages (such as English) to explain the selections. You pick what you want from the menu 3 at a time, and then it comes on the 'sushi shinkansen' directly to your seat. This is Fred's order of natto sushi. He also ordered an iced coffee as you see Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Natto sushi Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Ebi (shrimp) with mentaiko topping "Genki Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. - shrimp in chicken skin
    Let’s not kid that this is the best sushi in Tokyo- it’s just a more techie version of conveyor belt sushi that lets you tailor your order to get what you want and reduce waste and human resources (servers) for them. As a customer though is also incredibly convenient to be able to get exactly what we want instead of watching a parade to see what is available by scrolling through the menu instead. You can order 3 dishes at at time since that’s what the train holds, but usually stuff comes one plate at a time as soon as it’s ready. There were yellow smiley buttons to send the train back after we had picked up our plate, to go containers already at the seat, and after ordering a certain amount of plates you even got to play a scissors paper rock game to possibly win food or discounts. Fun!
    Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. You can order 3 at at time since that's what the train holds, but usually stuff comes one plate at a time as soon as it's ready "To
    There are locations of Genki Sushi also in the US in Hawaii and in Santa Ana, California and in King County, Washington
  20. Have you ever heard of Mentaiko Spaghetti? It is essentially a Japanese Style Fish Roe Pasta that is reminiscent of Pasta Carbonara in that it has a creaminess and saltiness for the flavors, but instead of using bacon it uses cod roe, aka mentaiko, which are those little dots instead. You can probably find this at a lot of Italian restaurants in Japan.
    Fred wanted Italian for dinner, and I went with Mentaiko Spaghetti that includes cod roe but is otherwise a bit like carbonara in it's combination of creaminess and saltiness Mentaiko Spaghetti at Noraneko, a special only on Saturdays
    You used to be able to find this dish once a week as the Saturday special at Noraneko but they changed their menu to be ramen and sandwiches now, sadly, even though their version is as good as the ones I had in Japan. Does anyone else know where to get this now?
  21. When you are at the train station, look for the Ekiben store selling Eki Bentos – these are train bento boxes packed so you can enjoy them on the shinkansen bullet trains. The ekiben are only at stations where the shinkansen go through – and you will find it in the station stores and restaurant area and also on the platforms. They are already packed, often with a display showing what is inside, for you to take to go. The Ekiben stores in the main station tend to have much larger selection than the one on the tracks.
    Another example of eki bento - they one I took the photo of previously had a lot more because it was in the central area of the train station. This one is right between the tracks after going downstairs - not only did it have less options, but it was out of the set I just bought for myself upstairs so I was glad I had already bought my food Examples of the many types of eki bento you can get - depending on the train station and area you are in, the contents of the food may vary based on local specialties
    Although there may be some classics that are available at all stations, you will also notice that there are regional specialties that vary depending on which station you purchase. Every train station we went through I always kept an eye out to see if there were ekiben stores to admire the possibilities, as well as looking for train stamps. Here are a few that I enjoyed during my trip – and I encourage you to try them too to get a full shinkansen experience.
    Bento box with egg, eel and rice 'Yay This is the Eki Bento I chose! I even brought it back from Japan and it sits on a shelf next to my other food vessels of a killer whale from SeaWorld from way back when and a Cars cone from Disneyland California. The color of this train matches the new in 2015 JR West’s W7 Series Shinkansen train. On a test ride, it departed from Kanazawa Station for Nagano Station, hitting 260 kph in seven minutes My Eki Bento may be in a train container like a kid, but it included onigiri, a little mayo and potato salad like a grown up and a little pound cake with bean filling dessert My Eki Bento may be in a train container like a kid, but it included onigiri, a little mayo and potato salad like a grown up and a little pound cake with bean filling dessert
  22. Often found near the train stations are these fabulous Japanese bakeries – you go in and grab a tray and tongs. Then, you walk around filling your tray with any of the baked goodies you want, which vary from savory to sweet. Then, you bring your tray to the cashier to pay for it all and they will wrap them up individually. I love stopping at these to grab buns for breakfast or as a snack.
    Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo
    The closest equivalents is Oyatsupan in Beaverton. Alternatively try Chinese bakeries that offer sweet and savory snack buns like King’s Bakery (SE 82nd and Division), Mei Sum Bakery (SE 80th and Powell), and Meianna Bakery (by Fubonn). I’ve grabbed some of the savory rolls from Best Baguette (at least I know the Beaverton location has it)
  23. During the cold weather months, look out for Oden,  a broth made by simmering fish cakes, fried tofu, and vegetables in a kelp based stock. There are usually lots of possible individual pieces of items you can purchase by the item to add to the broth, and you eat it with a little bit of mustard. After passing these countless times in convenience stores, I finally decided to try it.
    After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take
    I got daikon (the round thing to the bottom right), Konnyaku (looks like dragon hide but root of a plant call the Amorphophallus konjac, sometimes referred to by well-meaning English-speaking Japanese as “devil’s tongue”) and Tsukune meat thing. I really wanted a Mochiiri Kinchaku or “tofu purse” but the store didn’t have any. For a great primer on oden and what each of the ingredients are, I’m thankful for RocketNews24 Diner’s Guide to Oden. Other soup dishes that you might want to try in Japan include the one pot dishes of shabu shabu and sukiyaki (in which you swish beef into the soup to cook – broth based fondue essentially), or the heartier stews that is a staple of sumo wrestlers diets, chankonobe.
    After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take
    A lot of the hot pot joints in Portland tend to be Korean or Chinese (I like Hot Pot City, conveniently close to my home by PSU and offers vegetarian)
  24. Since my latest visit was with a vegetarian, and because the beef can be expensive, I didn’t make it to a restaurant serving Kobe Beef. You can eat it raw like sashimi, swish in broth sukiyaki style, bbq grill it via yakiniku cuisine, or have it teppenyaki style on an iron plate teppan grill. Unlike the teppanyaki in the US, the ones in Japan may be upscale steakhouses with premium cuts of meat, not just offering the entertainment value of the chef grilling in front of you. If you love steak though, you should seek out the famous marbled Wagyu Kobe Beef. The whole Japanese Kobe Beef and American Japanese “Kobe” Beef is a PITA to sort through so I haven’t made any effort here to justify whether they are equal or which is better. Tokio Table does offer teppenyaki and Wagyu from Snake River Farms,and you can try certified Japanese Wagyu if you attend Nodoguro SupaHardcore dinners. 
  25. Live on the edge by eating Fugu. This still hasn’t been an experience I’ve had – still not sure if it ever will. But I can’t deny that it should be part of a possible Japan Eats list. It’s definitely a specialty of Japan to eat this known poisonous fish at one of the licensed restaurants offering pufferfish / blowfish.  It is in season mainly in the winter, and because of the special training can be a little more expensive. Once inside the restaurant, there will be multiple preparations of fugu that you can choose from, varying from hot and cold, cooked and raw. For more information, try this New York Magazine article on eating fugu.
    Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant
    On a more reasonable note, I would do this for crab (kani) – the famous moving crab sign in Osaka is the symbol for a crab restaurant chain called Kani Doraku that specializes in crab dishes. I didn’t have enough room for it in this past trip (plus probably wouldn’t have been appreciated by F who wouldn’t be able to eat anything as a vegetarian), but if I went to Japan again I would try it. Kani has locations outside Osaka – the blog Appetite for Japan has a great recap of what a Kani Doraku meal can be like.
    Sights of Osaka - Left, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef with a fu manchu. And, to the right another location of crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs
    No place in Portland is licensed for fugu, I think you’ll have to go to Seattle, New York or California

There is one other Japanese dining experience you might consider during a trip to Japan. I considered it but didn’t want to spend that much when F couldn’t be part of the experience. That’s dining at one of the Michelin starred restaurants. As of 2016, Tokyo has the most Michelin starred restaurants of any city in the world with 13 Three Stars, 51 Two Stars, and 153 One Star Michelin restaurants. The type of cuisine a Michelin star restaurant may offer varies greatly.

I also want to mention though it doesn’t count as eating, definitely consider trying local sake and craft beer while in Japan as well.

  • In Tokyo we visited Baird Brewing which offers several taprooms all specializing in a different bar food to go along with the beer (we went to the one in Harajuku where we tried a few tofu izakaya items with our beer and I fell in love with Wasabi Potato Salad), an outpost of Little Delirium offering Belgium Beer in Shinjuku, Mikkeller Tokyo in Shibuya offering rare beers you normally only see in bottles, and Good Beer Faucets also in Shibuya offering an impressive 40 taps (They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year’s weekend). For the most taps in Tokyo, look to Popeye’s with it’s 70 beers on draft and one ugly mofo of a website.
  • In Kyoto, we went to hole in the wall but high quality craft beer and organic food bar Beer Komachi, and Jam Hostel Sake Bar as I’ve mentioned before I enjoyed tofu with beer and had the best sake ever, and another option would be trying both beer and sake as both are available at Kizakura Kappa Country.
    Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break - the Hiyayakko or Chilled Tofu came with a lot of bonito Hello from Mikkeller Tokyo with 20 taps Hello from Mikkeller Tokyo with 20 taps On New Year's Eve, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend

Which Japanese Eats do you think you would put on your list? What have you already tried and loved in Japan, or though eh it wasn’t all that? Did I miss anything in my list? Are there places in Portland for some of these that I don’t know about that you want to loop me in on?

Thank you very much for reading my long series of my Japan Travel posts. This is the last one, and at this point I’m a little perplexed myself how I managed to fit in so much in the 2 weeks I was there. Is it wrong to be impressed with your own travel planning? Although we did a lot, I also felt it was a relaxing vacation because we were never rushing from place to place on a set schedule and that there was some flexibility in the itinerary. Did I miss my calling as a travel and tour operator?

Next week Travel Tuesday I’ll be taking you to Sante Fe!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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