Japan Travel: Fun at Japanese Cafes and More

May 10, 2016 by 5 Comments

It may seemed with all my previous Japan Travel Tuesday posts that we had a very cultural experience, but that’s not true. We also did quite a few miscellaneous fun things that were goofy. You may or may not want to also do these activities, depending on your own preferences. All these Japanese cafes and more are located in Tokyo. These were all fun for us, in their own special silly way.  Some memories you make should not be serious.

Akihabara Maid Cafe

Visiting a Maid Cafe was not on my list of must dos, but apparently it was for F. He seemed to have a good time teasing me every time we passed by one of the maids on the street advertising their cafe, usually only a few steps away. We specifically stopped at an @home maid cafe location inside Don Quixote.

Maid Cafes are specific themed Japanese cafes where everyone is female, dressed like a maid, and serves you like you are a master or a princess (which is what they call you while you are there). No photos allowed at the cafe with the maids without paying, but after being on feet wandering Akihabara for hours since morning even before any stores were open, and now since it was well into lunchtime, we relished the chance to sit down purchased a lunch meal that included a photo for each of our meal packages (1 drink, 1 food dish, 1 photo) to look at and laugh at ourselves for years to come.
Inside Don Quixote, we stopped for lunch at @home maid cafe and we each selected a maid to have a photo with Inside Don Quixote, we stopped for lunch at @home maid cafe and we each selected a maid to have a photo with

The food comes in the unique plating that can only be described as Cute Japanese Style Food. For instance, for his mocha latte and my green tea latte, we got to choose which animal we could have drawn on our beverage (I guess that explains the “Magic Sketch” portion of the menu item names). For my lunch I ordered the Cutie Puppy Curry Set that included little hamburger steaks for ears (hamburger steaks in Japan are a bit like salsbury steaks), and he got Napoletena Spaghetti Set. I don’t know why both sets came with potato salad. This was by no means a gourmet foodie meal… it was really just an unique experience as we had to awkwardly figure out how to sing with the maid waitress (you get to choose your maids from a bulletin board with their photos…) to add moe magic love filling to our food with a little song before we could eat :O
Inside Don Quixote, we stopped for lunch at @home maid cafe. For these Magic Sketch beverages, aka his mocha latte and my green tea latte, we got to choose which animal we could have drawn on our beverage. Inside Don Quixote, we stopped for lunch at @home maid cafe, this is the Cutie Puppy Curry Set Inside Don Quixote, we stopped for lunch at @home maid cafe, this is the Napoletena Spaghetti Set

J World Tokyo and Namja Town

Also a request from F, who is more into anime than I am with his subscriptions to stream subtitled anime at Crunchyroll and FUNimation. He is more up to date on the latest series that are popular in Japan, particular with anime inspired by Shonen Jump, a weekly manga magazine that publishes the latest chapter of multiple manga series all in one anthology publication.

J World Tokyo is an indoor theme park focused on Shonen Jump manga characters like you see here, including both games and themed food that matches characters and scenes from the manga or anime. Some of the shows we saw featured included Dragonball Z, Naruto, One Piece, Gintama, Monster Hunter, Kuroka’s Basketball, and probably others that I don’t recognize.
A lot of places are closed on New Year's Day, but one of them that was open was J World Tokyo. This is an indoor theme park focused on Shonen Jump manga characters like you see here. Mainly, Fred was interested in Gintama. I didn't really take this seriously until we both saw they had THEMED FOOD and said, hey why not? A lot of places are closed on New Year's Day, but one of them that was open was J World Tokyo. This is an indoor theme park focused on Shonen Jump manga characters like you see here. Mainly, Fred was interested in Gintama. I didn't really take this seriously until we both saw they had THEMED FOOD and said, hey why not?

The themed food was clever and in turns hilarious. Tip: when you pay admission, show your foreign passport to get a discount. On the website you can see that the games are pay per play, and which ones are marked with English translations available. With your admission, you come back as many times you you need to during the day, so we ate here for lunch on New Year’s Day and later came back for dessert after a dinner at Namja Town.
More themed food at J World amusement park. I mean, it's 800 yen, and you have to pay extra for games and as you order food. But if you show your passport then you get a discount. And you can come back in and out the same day, so we were here for lunch and dinner. Cotton Candy golden cloud Dragon Ball Z at J World Kitchen Gintama themed food, a special at J World Tokyo we visited only from November 2015 - February 2016. This is referring to a particular episode where Gin is riding the shogun like a sled and he discovers something can work to steer or slow his human sled down. The straps you see him holding are from making a wedgie. That's all I'll say Gintama themed food, a special at J World Tokyo we visited only from November - February This is the dessert we had to come back after 5 PM to be able to order at J World's cafeteria, Gintama themed between Nov 2015 and Feb 2016.

Namja Town is similarly is an indoor theme park focused also on Namja characters, games but also offering Gyoza (Potsticker) Stadium and several choices of dessert stands. Inside, it is themed like you are in a mini city even though you are just walking around part of the floor of a shopping center. There are even a few booths like this that you an get in and sit and eat like you are at home, and some area that evoke dining outside in a food court streetside with crates as part of the tables or your seats.
Namja Town. Inside, it is themed like you are in a mini city even though you are just walking around a food amusement park on part of the floor of Sunshine City shopping center Namja Town. Inside, it is themed like you are in a mini city even though you are just walking around a food amusement park on part of the floor of Sunshine City shopping center Namja Town. Inside, it is themed like you are in a mini city even though you are just walking around a food amusement park. There are even a few booths like this that you an get in and sit and eat like you are at home Namja Town eating area is a little nicer than just food court seats thanks to the decorative atmosphere

Gyoza Stadium is a food court area where you can order gyoza from multiple stands where each one has special unique takes on gyoza. Warning, this is not vegetarian friendly – most of the gyoza are filled with eat. Can you tell that the visit to Namja Town and Gyoza Stadium was my idea, not F? I think it was equal play – he got his J World and I got my Gyoza Stadium in Namja Town.
Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can get them for here or to go in little boxes you can collect in a basket so you can sample from multiple booths and try different styles Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can get them for here or to go in little boxes you can collect in a basket so you can sample from multiple booths and try different styles Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can get them for here or to go in little boxes you can collect in a basket so you can sample from multiple booths and try different styles Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can get them for here or to go in little boxes you can collect in a basket so you can sample from multiple booths and try different styles

You can go to the counter of each gyoza stand and on the laminated menus there, look for one that is English so you can know what you are ordering. I recommend looking at them all to plan out which ones you want to try. They can bring you the gyoza in little boxes that you collect in a plastic basket so you can collect several boxes of gyoza to create your own gyoza buffet.
Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can go to the counter and on the laminated menus there there is one that is English - it's just that you can't see it until you get up there to the register, I wish they had it on the signs or not just when you have the pressure of you're already at the cashier and need to order Namja Town has an area that is their Gyoza Stadium with a dozen little booths of different pot stickers, or gyoza, to try. You can go to the counter and on the laminated menus there there is one that is English. I recommend walking around to compare your optios before you choose. Namja Town Cheese Winged Gyoza "Trying

Also at Namja Town, you can also visit lots of various dessert stands where they plate the dessert in lots of cute ways, including with animal faces. When I went, they had some Sailormoon themed items, so I enjoyed a fruity beverage themed with Sailor Venus that included orange heart shaped fruit. One stand offered 50 flavors out of 88 possible ones for ice cream. We ordered a sorbet that had beautifu layers of color.
Lots of cute dessert food here too at Namja Town besides Gyoza Stadium Lots of cute dessert food here too at Namja Town - the cats I believe are the major mascots of Namja Town One of the shops at Namja Town had a LOT of ice cream flavors - I think this is the reduced version of what used to be Ice Cream City when it first opened in 2003. They have really unusual flavors like eel ice cream, wasabi ice cream, sake ice cream, sea urchin ice cream, etc. My Sailor Venus drink at Namja Town included orange heart fruit. Really beautiful layers to this sorbet at Namja Town Really beautiful layers to this sorbet at Namja Town

On New Year’s day a lot of things were closed, and if you are looking for an activity on a holiday, in the evening, or during crappy weather this might be also an option to consider as it is all indoors and they have a discount admission after 5 PM and are open year round. J World and Namja Town are both in the Sunshine City indoor mall in Ikebukuro, so you can also bolster your visit with shopping, eating, and they also offer in Sunshine City an aquarium, planetarium, movie theater, and a Pokemon Center.

Kanda Myojin

While we were in Akihabasa, we took a short few block walk away from the stores to visit Kanda Myojin, which some like CNN Travel call “The World’s Geekiest Temple”. This is due to a special good luck omamori (Japanese charm) available at Kanda Myojin, specifically an IT Charm to protect your technology devices. The charm you can purchase at this temple that is a 3 for one package that includes a credit card sized card for your wallet, a longer rectangular sticker for your computer, and a SD card sized sticker for your mobile phone.
a special good luck omamori (Japanese charm) available at Kanda Myojin temple in Akihabara, Tokyo, specifically an IT Charm to protect your technology devices. The charm you can purchase at this temple that is a 3 for one package that includes a credit card sized card for your wallet, a longer rectangular sticker for your computer, and a SD card sized sticker for your mobile phone

The best information on Kanda Myojin I found was from the blog Rurousha who also mentioned that there was a tiny temple horse,  and you can have your car blessed at the shrine. I didn’t see any car blessings in progress, but did see the horsie! I also found a fortune teller puppet machine.
Yep, Kanda Myojin has it's own lil horse! At Kanda Myojin, for this machine put in some money and the puppet will perform a little dance, (though it was already moving around and playing a little music to get your attention) and then give you a slip of paper with a fortune

For more information on omamori, which are great small souvenirs for yourself and to give others back home, and easy to get as they are available at all temples and shrines (though some specific ones like this one are at specific temples) see these two articles I found super useful.
Where you can purchase temple charms (omamori) for various kinds of good things, they are great small souvenirs for yourself and to give others back home, and easy to get as they are available at all temples and shrines (though some specific ones like this one are at specific temples) Where you can purchase temple charms (omamori) for various kinds of good things, they are great small souvenirs for yourself and to give others back home, and easy to get as they are available at all temples and shrines (though some specific ones like this one are at specific temples)

Calico Cat Cafe

This was my request and F tagged along. There are multiple kinds of Japanese cafes that are animal themed in that they offer audience with a type of animal – ranging from cat cafes to owl cafes to goat cafe, rabbit cafe, even a hedgehog cafe. With the small spaces, long work hours, and often strict rules, many Japanese citizzens can’t own pets and so animal cafes are a way to get a little animal companionship. Although there is a cat cafe in Portland, it doesn’t offer as many cats as the ones in Japan do, and I wanted to try out the experience.

After finding the Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku in the 8th floor, we went to the welcome window where we’re given a time stamped lanyard. We will pay at the end based on how much time we spend in the cafe with the cats. You are given slippers to wear after you remove your shoes and place in lockers (there are more lockers inside past the door to the cats for your bags or anything else you want to put away). Then we wash and disinfect our hands at these sinks right before the door leading to the 2 floors of kitties, as illustrated here on the note on the mirror.
Slippers to wear after you remove your shoes at the Calico Cat Cafe we wash and disinfect our hands at these sinks right before the door leading to the 2 floors of kitties... as illustrated here on the note on the mirror at Calico Cat Cafe

There is an area for cats to go away from humans and hang out behind a windowed area so you can at least admire them but can’t interact. You will find cats in cat beds, cat towers, and cat shelves 🙂
Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. There is an enclosed glass area for cats that we can just see without touching. Notice the cat in a cloak! Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. The squat little legs of this one are adorable Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. Shelves of cat Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. Notice the little cat decal by the door lock/knob! and the shelves for the cats even in the stairwell to the 2nd floor

They have seats on the 2nd floor (take the stairs down from where you enter Calico Cat Cafe) but most people I saw just ended up settling at cat level on the floor. There are manga to read, as well as Wii and games to play. You can also purchase food and drink for yourself to eat at some of the seats downstairs. If the cat and human carer is not out you can ring the bell by the sliding window.
Ring the bell for service at Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku! From a person, not from a kitty... A staffperson prepares food and drink from a room behind that sliding window. Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. Devote to Cat. Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase beverages and snacks. Investigation of the noise that occurred by the box... what happened? Drink and Food Menu at Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku, 2 floors of cats to play with or just sit around as you read manga or purchase these beverages and snacks.

I highly recommend you spend the 300 yen for a little container of shredded chicken as cat treats, especially if you want to experience a kitty swarm as they all seem to know as soon as you crack the lid open a little bit. They KNOW. The Calico Cat Cafe staff will ask that you not feed the ones with scarves as they have a special diet you don’t want to ruin, and they will request you try to spread out the treats to different cats so no one gets too fat.
What happens when you buy one of the little containers of shredded chicken at Calico Cat Cafe that you can feed the cats as treats. As soon as you open it, they know. They KNOW I highly recommend you spend the 300 yen for a little container of shredded chicken as cat treats, especially if you want to experience a kitty swarm as they all seem to know as soon as you crack the lid open a little bit. They KNOW. The Calico Cat Cafe staff will ask that you not feed the ones with scarves as they have a special diet you don't want to ruin, and they will request you try to spread out the treats to different cats so no one gets too fat. What happens when you buy one of the little containers of shredded chicken at Calico Cat Cafe that you can feed the cats as treats. As soon as you open it, they know. They KNOW

You pay by the first hour and then for every 15 minutes thereafter. There always seemed to be a “cashier cat” at the window – if one kitty leaves, another one jumped up there.
You pay by the first hour and then for every 15 minutes thereafter at Calico Cat Cafe. There always seemed to be a cashier cat at the window You pay by the first hour and then for every 15 minutes thereafter at Calico Cat Cafe. There always seemed to be a cashier cat at the window

Ghibli Museum

F and I have seen all of Hayao Miyazaki’s films and are big Studio Ghibli fans, so purchasing a ticket to visit the Ghibli Museum was a treat for us. The museum works on advanced reservation tickets only that are open to be sold 3 months beforehand (and tickets do sell out!), and they are set for specific dates for one time admittance (no reentering after you leave). At the Ghibli museum’s entrance, the reserve tickets are exchanged for a 35mm film strip that features a scene from one of the Studio Ghibli films that you keep as a souvenir. I know the one to the left is from Laputa Castle in the Sky, but not sure what the right one is from.
At the Ghibli museum's entry, the reserve tickets are exchanged for a 35mm film strip that features a scene from one of the Studio Ghibli films that you keep as a souvenir.

You have to pay admission to go inside the museum, but some sights like the Totoro’s Reception window are outside the museum so you don’t necessarily need a ticket to see him.
Ghibli Museum, Mitaka - the information brochure mentions 'Those who can lose their way and fully enjoy this space are welcomed at the Museum.' Ghibli Museum, Mitaka - the information brochure mentions 'Those who can lose their way and fully enjoy this space are welcomed at the Museum.' Totoro’s Reception, Ghibli Museum - this is outside the museum so you don't need a ticket to see him Totoro’s Reception, Ghibli Museum - this is outside the museum so you don't need a ticket to see him

Ghibli Museum having all this green on it seems completely appropriate and expected since so much nature is part of the theme in the studio films and is part of the wonderful detail of the environment that they create in watercolor background for each movie. The museum has a Rooftop Garden at the top features a Robot from Laputa (Castle In The Sky), still tending to nature, and a symbol of humanity’s choice of whether its legacy will be as destroyers of this world or its caretakers. Ghibli Museum having all this green on it seems as expected since so much nature as part of the theme in the studio films Ghibli Museum having all this green on it seems as expected since so much nature as part of the theme in the studio films The museum has a Rooftop Garden at the top features a Robot from Laputa (Castle In The Sky), still tending to nature, and a symbol of humanity's choice of whether its legacy will be as destroyers of this world or its caretakers. The museum has a Rooftop Garden at the top features a Robot from Laputa (Castle In The Sky), still tending to nature, and a symbol of humanity's choice of whether its legacy will be as destroyers of this world or its caretakers. The museum has a Rooftop Garden at the top features a Robot from Laputa (Castle In The Sky), still tending to nature, and a symbol of humanity's choice of whether its legacy will be as destroyers of this world or its caretakers.

I also knew that most of the exhibits were in Japanese, so we decided to go on a tour (we found one via Viator that was an afternoon tour). It sounds like the tour has changed since when we took it where the guide entered the museum with the group to explain some of the exhibits and walk through a couple rooms with us pointing out details that you might otherwise miss or and telling us the story behind some things and referencing the movie for us – otherwise we would have done a lot of looking but not necessarily a lot of understanding. Unless you can read Japanese I think a tour is invaluable in this case in giving you background and tips for the most enjoyment. The way the tour was set up she walked around pointing out extra stories or sights we might have missed, than gave us our own time to wander and we had a choice whether to leave with the group or stay longer.
Studio Ghibli Museum Tour - she pointed out little details for us to notice, like the crest on the gate and on bricks here or there Studio Ghibli Museum Tour - she pointed out little details for us to notice, like the crest on the gate and on bricks here or there Studio Ghibli Museum Tour - she pointed out little details for us to notice, like the crest on the gate and on bricks here or there Ghibli Museum Crest

Photos aren’t allowed inside the museum, so I only have photos from outside to share. Still, you can get an idea of the exquisite detail they have inside just from what I captured outside. I actually liked that no photos were allowed as it forced all visitors to get absorbed in the atmosphere and wonder. Hayao Miyazaki’s intention was that people focus on the experience and taking back memories. The information brochure even mentions “Those who can lose their way and fully enjoy this space are welcomed at the Museum.” The doors and all the windows and skylights featured breathtaking stained glass with references to the Ghibli films. Here’s a hint of that just from the front doors before I put away my camera, which pay homage to My Neighbor Totoro.
Ghibli Museum - Stained Glass on the front doors which pay homage to My Neighbor Totoro - they had stained glass with Ghibli characters in many places including the skylight ceiling in the Central Hall Ghibli Museum - Stained Glass on the front doors which pay homage to My Neighbor Totoro - they had stained glass with Ghibli characters in many places including the skylight ceiling in the Central Hall Ghibli Museum - Stained Glass on the front doors which pay homage to My Neighbor Totoro - they had stained glass with Ghibli characters in many places including the skylight ceiling in the Central Hall

The Ghibli museum is 3 stories and is full of winding paths inside through little rooms and hallways, interior bridges and balconies, multiple winding spiral staircases including one in a small clock tower, to evoke a feeling of exploration and adventure. The building design is meant to be a nod to Hayao Miyazaki’s building designs in the Studio Ghibli films. When you visit Ghibli Museum, you get one entry to view a short film in the Saturn Theater, and the short film rotates and is original for the museum.
The Ghibli museum is 3 stories and is full of winding paths inside through little rooms and hallways, interior bridges and balconies, multiple winding spiral staircases including one in a small clock tower, to evoke a feeling of exploration and adventure. The building design is meant to be a nod to Hayao Miyazaki's building designs in the Studio Ghibli films.

My favorite room was the history and science of animation that had a three-dimensional zoetrope of “Bouncing Totoro”, with models of characters from My Neighbor Totoro that it would stop moving so you can see all the detail of each individual figure, and then turn off the light and spin quickly to see the amazing animation as the characters come to life. It inspired Pixar to create one as well for California Adventure Land – this is the best hint I can give you at how truly fantastic it is.

Unfortunately, the plush cat bus upstairs from Totoro is for elementary kids only. The only other negative about the museum is that the gift shop is small and gets very crowded like a madhouse, so I would recommend visiting a Ghibli store elsewhere which will have similar products and more space, and there are several locations. Don’t miss visiting the cafe area where you can get a special Ghibli beer Kaze no Tani (you can take the empty bottle out with you), and check out the detail of the sinks with reference’s to Kiki’s Delivery Service.
Don't miss visiting the cafe area where you can get a special Ghibli beer Kaze no Tani (you can take the empty bottle out with you) Wash your hands afterward at Ghibli Museum's cafe area at the outdoor sink that includes the cat from Kiki's Delivery Service for a handle

Next week is my final Japan Travel post with a summary of the various types of Japanese foods to look for when you visit. Then, the Travel Tuesday posts will shift to Sante Fe!

Of all these various special interest stops, are there any that interest you? When you travel, are there certain types of “hobby or special interest” attractions that interest you? What do you think of the Ghibli Museum policy of no photos in order to have you absorb the experience and only take back memories instead of photos?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Visiting Himeji Castle

May 3, 2016 by 11 Comments

I couldn’t go to Japan without seeing a castle this time – and I always knew which one it would be. It would be Himeji Castle, also known as the White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) or White Egret Castle (Hakurojo) due to its elegant bird like silhouette from its curved roofs and the white color of the plaster walls which helped it survive since plaster won’t burn down (unlike most of the other castles in Japan). Himeji is one of Japan’s only 12 completely original castles.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

This is the one that I have admired for years with it’s bright white walls from postcard and pictures even when I was young just passing through Narita for an airplane transfer. It didn’t matter which season, this castle always looks stunning – whether it be with the brilliant red and orange autumn foliage around it, or covered in snow, or with the blossom of cherry trees and the castle park also with its plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing on the grounds. Or in the case when I came in December, with none of those atmospheric elements and just the castle on its own.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

We took the shinkansen train here from Kyoto – though you can also use Osaka as your home base if you want, since Himeji Station lies between these two cities at only an hour away. From Tokyo I think by shinkansen it’s about 4 hours away, so also possible as a day trip. As you walk out of the train station you can see it vaguely at the end of the street already because it’s on a hill. From the train station it was a 20 minute walk along the main boulevard, watching Himeji Castle get bigger and bigger as you get closer. Takopost has a great Himeji Castle Day Trip blog post showing pictures of the approach as well as some of the inside and tips.

Then, here is your view as your cross the last street into the park area. Also in the surrounding area besides the castle are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The moat here is one of three moats that were originally encircling Himeji Castle – there are only 2 moats that survive as the outmost moat has been buried.
Himeji Castle, Japan - our first look once we walked down the main boulevard and crossed the last street into the park here. Also in the surrounding area are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive Himeji Castle, Japan - the castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive

We visited the castle when it first opened in the morning – in fact we arrived maybe 30 minutes before the admission gates opened. I knew that for the past 5 1/2 years, Himeji Castle has had scaffolding covering the castle while restoring and making repairs, and had only reopened earlier in March of 2015 revealing the full castle walls again. So, since it’s reopening it has been a popular attraction even for locals to revisit.

The pictures from Takopost from July 2015 had shown huge crowds and queues of people shuffling in constant lines through and around the castle, and I did not want that experience. He advised immediately getting in line and admiring the grounds outside after. So I intentionally came early to beat any tour groups or school trips, and hoped that the fact it was New Year’s week meant it wasn’t as much of a draw. This paid off in that we were among the first 50 people in… and it turn out to be a light visit day so we never felt crowded and could take our time in all areas. If you want to guess what the crowds might be, the official Himeji Castle website has a calendar where you can look at the probable amount of visitors for that time.
Open area around Himeji Castle as you approach it from Himeji Station Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

On your way you may see some of the resident cats on the property! Supposedly there are sometimes people who are dressed like samurai or ninja that are sometimes here to earn money taking photos with tourists, but we didn’t see any. Just the kitties. There was quite a small crowd around them – they are obviously being fed by someone here – as we watched one cat unsuccessfully stalk a crow several times. This feeding area we saw was right outside where the line to enter Himeji starts, where there are public park restrooms. Once you are inside Himeji Castle, there are not restrooms available until you reach the Inner Keep area (where the photo with me above was taken, after already going up and down the main keep).
Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area

After paying admission into the main keep grounds, you have to follow many winding paths through doorways (there were 84 gates total originally in the entire complex) to actually get into the castle. This is intentional design to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you’re going towards it. There are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way.
Getting a bit photo happy as we approach Himeji Castle once they opened the admission gates (we had to wait about 30 min before they opened and were among the first 50 in I think). They have had scaffolding on the castle making repairs and only reopened earlier in that year after 5 1/2 years The Himeji castle property, situated on a hill summit in the central part of the Harima Plain covers 107 hectares and comprises eighty-two buildings. It is centered on the Tenshu-gun, a complex made up of the donjon, keeps and connecting structures that we are walking through here

There is even a trap by another gate that can send a landslide through to block the gate. Himeji Castle was designed ready for a siege – though it was never actually besieged in its history.
The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends. There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you're going towards it, there are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way The Himeji castle complex originally contained 84 gates, 15 of which were named according to the Japanese syllabary (I, Ro, Ha, Ni, Ho, He, To, etc.) At present, 21 gates from the castle complex remain intact, 13 of which are named according to the Japanese syllabary.

Finally, we arrive at the actual castle building. Very early on after entering the inside castle building, we were given plastic bags to carry our shoes and we are all wearing slippers they gave us as we start to ascend the levels of the castle, which you may catch in some of the photos I have. Externally, the Himeji Castle keep appears to have five floors because the second and third floors from the top appear to be a single floor. But, the tower actually has six floors and a basement. The castle’s granite base, combined with a highly flexible wooden structure, is designed to help Himeji Castle sway during earthquakes.
Finally about to enter the actual castle building now! The walking we have been doing is intentional in the design The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends

There are lots of windows as we go up each floor: this gives us a view of the city, the keep area… in the second photo you can see that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the Himeji train station. You can see why building Himeji, which started as a fort, on top of Himeyana hill originally in 1333 was such a smart idea with this strong vantage point.
View from Himeji Castle in Japan of the rest of the keep Besides the detail look at the mythical tiger-headed fish called kinshachi as a talisman for fire protection, that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the train station

From the windows you also see many of the Himeji Castle tiger-headed fish statues called kinshachi that are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires.
View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi

The weapon racks inside were empty, but you definitely notice how many there are. At one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period (they significantly rebuilt Himeji Castle from 1601-1609 and started the castle complex that stands today) there were about 500 samurai warriors in residence here.

Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki and daughter-in-law, Princess Sen, inherited the castle from the Ikedas. They had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants as they expanded the castle keep into a castle complex in 1617-1618, including a special tower for Princess Sen. Himeji Castle has then mostly been intact since then for the next over 400 years! In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people at Himeji. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.
Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people. Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.

All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle – steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.
All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle. All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.

Here’s another look at a stair to another floor. The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam. Even though I’m not an engineer or architect, I am nothing but impressed with the design and construction that it took at the time to make Himeji Castle what it is today.
The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam, which is thought to bestow good luck on touching it.

Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called “stone-throwing platforms” where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called “warrior hiding places” where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also placed higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.
Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder. Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.

Once the path takes you up and then down through the main castle, you have a chance to admire the outside again. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the tiles at the end of the curved gables. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, you might see the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.
On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.

You can observe open window like holes in the walls in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles located throughout Himeji Castle. The shapes are intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance. Below you can see windows for an archer or defender using a Matchlock Himeji Castle, Japan. You can observe loopholes in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles are located throughout Himeji Castle, intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.

And what’s an old castle without a ghost story or two right? There are two for Himeji Castle that I read. The first is for Okiku’s Well. The story is that Okiku was falsely accused of losing dishes that were valuable family treasures, and then killed and thrown into the well. Her ghost remained to haunt the well at night, counting dishes in a despondent tone.
Himeji Castle, Japan. This is December so there isn't much color, but the park has hundreds of cherry trees and great fall colors in spring and fall. The extensive castle park also has plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing in the grounds

The other is Genbei Sakurai, who was Ikeda Terumasa’s master carpenter in the construction of the keep, and who felt responsible for the mistaken measurement that causes the tower to lean in the southwest direction so he committed suicide by jumping off a donjon. The real reason for the castle leaning to the southwest is because of sunken cliffs in the east and west. Who knows if either of these folktales are true.
Himeji Castle in Japan Himeji Castle in Japan

On a previous post I shared street treats, which included photos and a video of Ningyo Yaki (a cake filled with sweet red bean paste) here they are available in the shape of Himeji Castle… Those stores are located right across the street from Himeji Castle park on the way back to Himeji Station. Because of the time of year that we visited, we did not visit the Kokoen Garden nearby (offering 9 gardens, and also an opportunity to experience traditional tea service – you can purchase a combined ticket with Himeji Castle admission if you so choose), so we spent about half a day here at Himeji, leaving after lunch and actually then heading to Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion in Kyoto which I covered a couple posts ago.
Himeji Castle Ningyo Yaki -Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

While waiting for our train time to go to the plastform at Himeji Station, we followed our noses to find this, a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. I highly recommend you try it!
We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown.

Helpful articles on visiting Himeji:

Clearly you can tell I had a huge interest for visiting Himeji Castle as I had already done so much previous research (which I then summarized in a word document to print out so it’s thin) before even arriving at the castle so I would be able to enjoy it with history and knowledge already in hand when I finally made my dream come true.

I do have other castles on my bucket list – a mossy Irish castle, a medieval French castle on an island (Mont Saint-Michel), an elegant German castle that was the inspiration for Disney (Neuschwanstein Castle, though seriously Germany has so many lovely castles).

Have you ever done a lot of research on history or features of a specific attraction before visiting? What was it for? Do you have a dream castle you’d like to see?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Famous Signs of Osaka

April 26, 2016 by 7 Comments

When I think of Osaka, the first thing I think of is how it’s known as a food city. The other thing I think of is all the big giant food signs of Osaka and bright lights by the canal. So those were my targets when we traveled from Kyoto to Osaka: to eat a few specialty foods and see the famous signs of Osaka.

We only spent one day in Osaka because I had a feeling that F wouldn’t like it. And, I was right. Osaka is a bit more aggressive than Tokyo, and things he liked about Japan – how patient people would be, no one crossed the street except at intersections, everyone formed orderly lines while waiting for trains, everything is clean – is not so in Osaka. If anything, you could say Osaka feels a bit more Western in that regard, more casual than normal Japanese formality, maybe even a bit grittier. It’s the equivalent of Manhattan (Tokyo) vs the Bronx (Osaka) I think in the feel of the cities.

Amerikamura

This neighborhood of Amerikamura is maybe a 10 minute walk from Namba, which is where our AirBnB was located. I think Namba is the most happening area to stay if you visit Osaka. Everything in this post is on walking distance of Namba.

We stored our luggage until check-in at one of the many luggage lockers in the Namba train station – though it took us probably an hour to find a large luggage locker that could fit our 2 carry on bags and 2 backpacks. Just as we were going to give up and take the train to Kyoto Station (where I know they have a luggage room with an attendant), we ran into a group of Japanese late teens/early 20s who were removing their luggage. Huge sigh of relief. If you plan to store luggage you can find a map online as there are multiple luggage locker areas in the station.

Walking into Amerikamura, we were then fully surrounded by many people in their late teens and early 20s. This area is full of trendy stores, especially of clothing, that reflect a love for American influence and American street fashion generally leaning towards sporty (Nike and Adidas like), hip hop (hoodies, printed graphic T-shirts, caps) or punk (black with metallic details or crazy prints or bright colors). It honestly did remind me of the East Village of New York the way the stores were narrow and packed with merchandise. At one point we even spotted Amerikamura’s own version of the Statue of Liberty overseeing this trendy youthful neighborhood (atop New American Plaza, established 1984!).
Amerikamura's own version of the Statue of Liberty looks down upon this American influenced trendy neighborhood of Osaka

This is definitely an area where you can find lots of funny uses of English, be it store names or on clothing. This one particular store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by – they really did sell an interesting variety of pastry puffs of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it baked, but also is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk?
Punk teens co exist with hip hop style or sporty - think Nike and Adidas like - in Amerikamura, a trendy neighborhood in Osaka. This was taken at Sankaku Koen, a famous intersection. this one store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by - they really did only sell a pastry puff of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk

The main goal in Amerikamura was a famous intersection called Sankaku Koen, also known as Triangle Park because of the way the streets cross forms a triangular area in the middle where people hang out. Also, I had read from Matcha Japan Travel magazine that this street also has multiple takoyaki stands that flank the triangle park all within a couple blocks, all facing the park. Takoyaki are octopus dumplings, a street food representative of Osaka.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and one of the takoyaki stands I considered, one of the famous 3 stands right around Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park. This is Kogaryu’s(甲賀流) that is known for its mayo sauce Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura, here you see the other two takoyaki stands on the same street by Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Shiranngana! (知らんがな!) that I considered is known more for its jokes (for instance, instead of yen it lists prices as ten thousand yen increments but really it's still regular yen- it just means you hear someone say it's 4 million yen but really it's 400). It's specialty is apparently salt flavored takoyaki Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Ganso Donaiya that I considered... and then I saw the balls on top rotated. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you.

I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead. I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.

And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. And there’s a line and I see them making the food fresh (those two are key in eating foreign street food). Must be good right?
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good! I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso-Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good!

I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you. The line also reinforced that it would be fresh, and must be tasty right? First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. Here as the ones on the right finish cooking, he pours batter to start a new batch in the other takoyaki pan Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.

Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand

I selected one with the takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion.
Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion

Dotonbori

The most famous area of Osaka is beyond a question Dotonbori. This is both the name of a street and a canal, and is known for being a huge food destination full of gigantic signs, including mechanized signs.
Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night. Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico Running man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night.

At night, Dotonbori is glittering with bright lights. Here you see the famous giant neon Glico Running Man, and along the street there is a smaller version with the time that you can pose with.
'Sights Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man

If you’re wondering why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it’s because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.
If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel. If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.

You’ve probably seen the famous Kani Doraku crab sign with its mechanized legs slowly moving since the 60s, beckoning patrons to eat at this crab restaurant chain (there are a few other branches, but this is the original flagship restaurant with the iconic moving crab) right before the Dotonbori Bridge.
Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the left the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs

For instance, here’s another branch with the crab above its sign, though this one didn’t move. Next to it is another famous icon, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef.
Sights of Osaka - Left, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef with a fu manchu. And, to the right another location of crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs 'Sights

Kushikatsu is also known kushiage. It is battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. The sauce is in a communal container for every 2 people or so, and you better NOT double-dip. You can order your skewer one at a time, or purchase a set that has an assortment like the one I had.

When I ate at Kushikatsu Daruma, I selected the Shinsekai set menu that includes a side I could choose as well as skewers of classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. I picked Takowasa as the side included for the set I ordered, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. You will also get a side of cabbage leaves to go with your skewers. There will be a container to use for disposal of your skewers each time – just watch the others along the counter with you.
Kushikatsu, is essentially deep fried food on a stick—or more specifically, battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. I ate at an outpost of the famous chain Daruma. Look at all the example kushikatsu on the boards! Kushikatsu lunch for me at Kushikutsu Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi as the included side for the set. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. The glass is NOT water - it's Kushikutsu Daruma barley shochu Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. Since they bring you the skewers while they are freshly fried, I got some on one tray, and then a second tray appeared with the rest.

As you walk up and down the street, you will encounter many other giant foods, which I visited both during the day and night.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori

Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zuboraya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant

Then there’s this Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Kuidaore Taro a life sized mechanized doll of a young teen in a clown costume playing a drum and symbol that originated around 1950. You can see there is a sign that is pretty large with him in the first photo on the left… and then I found a shop dedicated to him that included the drumming statue and a whole bunch of stuff with his likeness.
Sights of Osaka - including to the left in this photo Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown.

You are likely to see Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen. It is a somewhat large chain of ramen shops, so you’ll see this a couple times. Kinryuu is a combination of the words “gold” and “dragon”, so it can easily be translated to be “Golden Dragon”.
Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot. Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot.

You will probably also run into Billikin, the god of ‘things as they ought to be’. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture – he is still Saint Louis University’s mascot.
Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture

There are lots of stands of takoyaki and other grilled meats throughout the streets – something F complained about because the aromas of the grills also added to our attire so much that F insisted we do laundry once we got back to the AirBnB.
Takoyaki and grilled meats at one of the stands in Dotonbori filling the air with their aromas

Although, to be fair, we also ate okonomiyaki at Ajinoya for dinner. Okonomiyaki is a kind of griddled Japanese pancake that includes batter, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients and toppings which vary but generally include okonomiyaki sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed flakes. You usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill.
our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish

You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.
Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.

I chose Ajinoya because it had a great review on the blog Migrationology’s Osaka Food Guide: 11 Must Eat Foods (and Where To Try Them) post. Also, I had found out that they have a tomato and cheese okonomiyaki and you also top your own bonito flakes and amount of sauce at your table, so this seemed like a good choice for vegetarian F since he normally would not be able to eat okonomiyaki as it usually would include seafood,  and I could go crazy with the flakes and sauce here.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese

Here’s my version – which was Hiroshima style as instead of mixing all the ingredients together it was layered with the batter being on top and bottom, and also included yakisoba noodles.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table

How many of the famous signs of Osaka have you heard about or seen before? Which is the one you find most interesting? Have you heard of or tried the Osaka food specialties like takoyaki, kushikatsu, or okonomiyaki before?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Scenic Streets of Gion and a Sake Bar

April 19, 2016 by 6 Comments

When I travel to other countries, one of my fun activities I like to do is wander in neighborhoods, just observing the atmosphere and the differences in the buildings, the streets, in the people passing through the streets with me, peering into restaurants and stores (browsing is free, it’s the shopping that gets you!). The Gion area in Kyoto is an area famous for its historic wooden buildings and neighborhoods from the Edo period (1603–1867), so the scenic streets of Gion are a great place to walk around

Gion is also a famous entertainment districts that is full of teahouses and restaurants and bars, traditional performing arts, and is one of a few places you may see a geisha. In the morning, these old fashioned streets of Gion are quiet and are the best time to take photos that capture the wood. Then as it gets later in the day and the dining destinations get open for the evening, the lanterns get lit, and it gets very busy with people hoping to glimpse a geisha on her way to an evening appointment.

Hanamikoji Dori

What we are looking for is Hanamikoji Dori, the second the street on the right side if you are facing east walking away from the river on Shijo Dori.  It’s a street with lovely wooden machiya merchant houses:

Sign on Hanami-koji Street in Gion Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street

Don’t be fooled at how traditional and quiet this is because as soon as it’s evening… this was much later after the dinner hour so not as bad as when the streets were literally filled with cars and people trying to make way for each other (there aren’t any marked sidewalks) on their way to dinner. Notice all the lit red lanterns.
"Gion Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street

Shirakawa Area

Go back across Shijo Dori and head 3 blocks north, turning left on Shinbashi Dori. Here in the Shirakawa Area – follow the street just along the small river here – there’s a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned wooden machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires.
More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires

The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It’s interesting here because we can look into the room like it’s an exhibit as people enjoy dinners in private rooms with complete and no privacy.
Another scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa Area which runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijo Avenue. The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It's interesting here because we can look into the room like it's an exhibit...

Now here’s a look when we walked by in the morning. Lonely Planet opines is “one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.” It’s December so we’ll just have to imagine the cherry blossoms
Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches

Ishibei-koji Lane

My vote for most scenic street that is like a step back in time is the short walk along  Ishibei-koji Lane, located just by Kodaji Temple that I had covered previously. At only 200 meters it’s short and more like an alley than a street, but Lonely Planet also dubs this too “perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto” and Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway. There is no sign for this, so prepare to orient yourself using GPS.
In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto'

These wooden machiya townhouses are rapidly disappearing from Kyoto, having had the good fortune to survive World War II (new machiya are prohibited from being built now, leaving only restoration) but now the difficult and expensive maintainace means many are being demolished in favor of modern buildings. I highly recommend when in Kyoto taking a walk in at least one of the above streets to get a feel of being a pedestrian in Kyoto a hundred or do years ago. For a more in depth experience, Iori, a company founded by a traditional culture advocate, rents multiple machiya for guests to stay.

Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar

Not far from the Shirakawa area and Gion – Shijo station is this recommended bar from the owner of Beer Komachi – Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar. This is why I love asking local industry people their recommendations: its location in a hostel meant I probably would have overlooked it. But she sent us to this location reassuring it was well worth it for us even if it also serving as a hostel was unusual. Boy was she right. The menu was probably a dozen pages long full of sake options to order individually, as well as offering flights and it could be served cold or hot. There were flights that were dedicated to being local to Kyoto as well as a few other prefectures including the owner’s home region of Niigata.

. Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sakeJam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake

This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever – Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake. The owner tried to warn us that it was very strong, but we convinced him we were up to the task. I was pretty surprised when it poured so dark and thick, almost like a balsamic vinegar – but it was so full of thick flavors that swirled and changed on the tongue that I was in love.
Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake. This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever - Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake

I have no idea where or how to get this type of sake here in Portland. But, if you are interested in sampling sake, there is in June the annual Sake Fest that you might want to consider where you can taste sake for hours and learn!

These stops in today’s post could be done together in a circle. We actually stayed at an Air BnB close by which I picked specifically to near Gion because I wanted to be in easy walking distance to great food and drink, so it was easy to visit all these locations by night and day. It’s my usual modus operandi when picking a place to stay: map out the things I want to eat and drink and stay nearby the food!

If you are going to do a walking tour and not staying in the area, you will probably arrive via Keihan Main line at Gion – Shijo Station and you should proceed first with Hanamikoji Dori, then Ishibei Koji, then circle back to the Shirakawa Area and finish at the Sake Bar – and you could combine this once you get towards Ishibei Koji with some of the Kyoto Temples and Shrines I wrote about earlier as they are nearby.

Alternatively if you are on the east side towards Yasaka Shine, go to Ishibei Koji first, then walk west towards the river to Hanamikoji Dori and the Shirakawa area then the Sake Bar to finish at the Gion – Shijo station is just to the east side of the river.

Do you have a favorite walking neighborhood from your travels, where is it? How crazy is that sign about not harassing the geishas at the beginning of this post?

This concludes my Travel Tuesday posts about Kyoto – we only stayed in the city for 3 days. So next we’ll shift from historical to modern as we go to Osaka next week!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Kyoto Famous Sights

April 12, 2016 by 7 Comments

We only spent 3 days in Kyoto, but I scheduled a lot of sights to see in that time. There was a lot more than I wished I could have seen done, and probably if I return on a leisure trip to Japan again, I would fly directly into Kyoto instead of Tokyo. If you go to Japan, do not just stay in Tokyo – I strongly urge you to include Kyoto as The Kyoto famous sights probably embody are all the traditional ideas of Japan you think of.

In previous Travel Tuesday posts I’ve already covered seeing on a one day walk the temples and shrines near the Higashimaya District, and also then those in the Arashiyama area. There are also a few other Kyoto famous sights that we visited that don’t fit well location wise in a continuous neighborhood walking tour, but I think are extremely worthy to visit and are emblems of Kyoto. Here are 2 more of the most famous of things to see in Kyoto, and are pretty famous sights for Japan in general… Which one do you prefer?

Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion)

There are two things to look out for when you visit Kinkakuji, also known as the Golden Pavilion. One of them is pretty obvious, and one is not. Do not confuse Kinkakuji with Ginkakuji – Ginkakuji is the Silver Pavilion (which is not silver at all).

The obvious: everyone comes here for the famous shiny gold of the Golden Pavilion which is one of the most famous sights of Kyoto and Japan. We go through a gate and suddenly BAM! This is the view – the famous main pavilion is covered in gold leaf and shimmers in front of yoko-chi (Mirror Pond). This pavilion and pond take up 93,000 of the 132,000 square meter temple grounds so I guess coming across it so quickly is unavoidable. The garden is designed to provide variations of views as the stones and trees have unusual shapes and change the landscape based on the angle while walking around Mirror Pond.
We go through a gate and suddenly BAM this is the view - the famous main pavilion is covered in gold leaf and shimmers in front of a pond - Kyoko-chi (Mirror Pond) at Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto. This pavilion and pond take up 93,000 of the 132,000 square meter temple grounds <At Kinkakuji Temple, the trees and stones have unusual shapes as the garden is designed to provide a view of different scenes while walking around this Mirror Pond.

You are not allowed to enter the Golden Pavilion itself, but you can see a bit inside the first floor where the windows are open that there are statues of Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. This was the shogon’s retirement villa until his death when he willed it to become a temple.
You are not allowed to enter the Golden Pavilion itself, but you can see a bit inside the first floor where the windows are open that there are statues of Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu. No, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu this was the retirement villa until his death when he willed it to become a temple, not the Yoshimitsu fighter in Tekken or Soul Calibur. Kinkakuji was built to echo the extravagant Kitayama culture that developed in the wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during Yoshimitsu's times. Each floor represents a different style of architecture. The first floor is built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings during the Heian Period, and with its natural wood pillars and white plaster walls. The second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences, and has its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. Finally, the third and uppermost floor is built in the style of a Chinese Zen Hall, is gilded inside and out. Then the building is capped with a golden phoenix.

The non-obvious: Check out the details of the buildings besides that of the Golden Pavilion – everyone was rushing to get there for their photo op and missing out on the various ways Yoshimitsu incorporated Chinese elements.
Lots of roof detail - other buildings on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto Peach on part of the roof detail - on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto

Particularly, the Guardian Lions that are all over Kinkakuji are great. There are multiple variations of them, so keep a look out for them on various rooftops and gates in their different poses that clearly embrace the cat side.
The Guardian Lions at the entrance gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto Seems like a natural position to me for a Guardian Lion - spotted on the roof of a gate on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto The Guardian Lion at the gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous The Guardian Lions on the gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous The Guardian Lion on gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous

Also, just outside the exit there is a little tea garden where you can enjoy matcha tea and a little gold flaked tea snack. Past that just outside the temple there are other stands with gold flaked food if you are looking to eat more gold.
"We We stopped to enjoy tea and a tea snack just outside the gates of Kinkakuji. The tea snack had a gold flake on it, and you can make out the outline of 2 mountains in the back and the main hall in the bottom right

Fushimi Inari Shrine

The Fushimi Inari Shrine is one the most famous symbols of Japan. It’s a shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto guide of rice, and Shinto’s messengers the kitsune (fox spirits). This is the location of the thousands of Torii Gates you usually see in photos winding on trails through the woods and up a small mountain.

When you first encounter the gates be prepared for the crush of people unless you come very early or at dusk/later as everyone first walks through the single main trail.
Beginning of the thousands of Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari shrine, which shortly will turn into with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (

Then, it breaks out into two parallel paths, one going up and one going down, thick with smaller gates.
Beginning of the thousands of Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari shrine, which shortly will turn into with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates)

As you go farther and farther up, the crowds will start to thin out so you can start to enjoy the details.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator’s name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Supposedly the cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

You can go all the way up Mount Inari, or turn around at any time. The trail span 4 kilometers and takes approximately 2 hours to walk up to the top. The view at the top is not too spectacular, so we only went partway before turning around so that we could visit another area (in this case we did a half day in Arashiyama immediately after this with lunch at Tenryuji Temple). Alternatively, Tofukuji Temple is not too far away from Fushimi Inari. Both Tenryuji and Tofukuji are temples for the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, so I didn’t feel bad skipping out on Tofukuji to to go Tenryuji instead since it offered the extra of the Buddhist Vegetarian Lunch.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

Partway up towards Mount Inari you will find some of the kitsune shrines which I recommend stopping to admire, some of the smaller shrines will have stacks of miniature torii gates donated by visitors with smaller budgets.
Along the way of the Torii Gate covered path at Fushimi Inari, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets. Along the way of the Torii Gate covered path at Fushimi Inari, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets.

In the shops outside the shrine we found lots of fox souvenirs, as well as oddly, a lot of grilled quail and one stand focused on unagi (eel). At a restaurant by Fushimi Inari Shrine we felt compelled to get some Inari Sushi which features pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes. Inarizushi is a simple and inexpensive type of sushi, in which sushi rice is filled into aburaage bags.
Food around the outside of Fushimi Inari Shrine - Grilled Quail on skewers Food around the outside of Fushimi Inari Shrine - Eel (Unagi) Lots of fox items to purchase at Fushimi Inari Shrine at the shops just outside at a restaurant by Fushimi Inari Shrine we felt compelled to get some Inari Sushi which features pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes. Inarizushi is a simple and inexpensive type of sushi, in which sushi rice is filled into aburaage bags

Fushimi Inari Shrine is open 24 hours, and is much more quiet and atmospheric when combined with dawn or dusk and just lit by its lanterns.

Have you seen or heard of Kinkajuji Temple and Fushimi Inari Shrine before? Which would you visit?

In my next (and last) post on Kyoto I want to show you the streets of Gion (including what Lonely Planet calls the most beautiful street in Japan), and recommend a sake bar. Then, my Travel Tuesday posts will take us off to Osaka!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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