Visiting the Painted Hills

This is the last of my three posts about my mid-March 2022 trip to the John Day Fossil Monument National Park in eastern Oregon. Located about 4 hours east of Portland, this unique national park has 3 units, each which very different experiences. I covered some of the logistics of how to get here in my first post, and the second post covered the 2 units of the Clarno Unit with its Palisades and the Sheep Rock Unit with the Blue Basin. This last post is only on visiting the Painted Hills, the most famous unit of the 3 and listed as one of the seven wonders of Oregon.

The Painted Hills Unit is located about 9 miles northwest of the town of Mitchell, Oregon, which makes it the closest base to visiting the unit. The stripes of red, tan, orange, yellow, streaks and dashes of black, all are a testament to the geological past representing changes in sediments over this region over 33 millions of years.
Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - view from Painted Hills Overlook Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - view from Painted Hills Overlook

Plan part of your time visiting the Painted Hills as close to a golden hour (the 1-2 hours before sunset or after sunrise) as you can. The lighting between morning and late afternoon are different – I think in particular the early evening light is softer, so makes for great photos. Also, the main view you see at Painted Hills Overlook and Carroll Rim Trail are hills that you look east towards, so the sun will be behind the hills the first part of the day causing camera glare, and the colors of the valley between the hills in shadow at first. If you are visiting the Painted Hills after it rains, that’s a plus – the saturation of the clay soils will make the color of the hills intensify by sealing the surface to reflect light while also expanding the clay, and you will see more of the black manganese deposits streaks.Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - view from Painted Hills Overlook Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - closer look at the soil colors at Painted Hills Overlook

Spring is a great time of year as the temperatures will be more moderate – during our visit we were around mid 50-70 degrees Fahrenheit. There are five trails available at the Painted Hills – each short, but still carry plenty of water. Some vault toilets are available by a picnic area. There is no entrance fee to enter any of the units of the John Day Fossil National Monument, but note that only the Sheep Rock Unit offers a visitor’s center. When you enter the Painted Hills area, you will be on gravel roads. You may encounter wildlife crossing ranging from deer to cows along the way so drive carefully around the curves as you approach the park.

Most popular trails at Painted Hills

Painted Cove Trail is where you’ll want to head to first to get that iconic photo of the boardwalk and red hills. This is a .25 mile roundtrip loop on a level boardwalk so very accessible. Besides the boardwalk, the whole point of the boardwalk is that it lets you walk very close to the soils to see the different colors up close – otherwise your view of the colors will be from a distance. Needless to stay, stay on the boardwalk and trails as your footprints can damage and leave lasting imprints for years and the soils are very sensitive. You have to drive past the Painted Hills Overlook to reach here, but I prefer visiting Painted Cove as a first stop because it gives you a closeup view before your vista and panoramic views. Sun placement also doesn’t matter as much here.
Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - visiting the Painted Cove trail area gives you up close look at the colors of the soil making up the Painted Hills Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - visiting the Painted Cove trail area gives you up close look at the colors of the soil making up the Painted Hills Guide to Visiting the Painted Hills - visiting the Painted Cove trail area gives you up close look at the colors of the soil making up the Painted Hills

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Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit

Continuing from my previous post after sharing the plans of how to get to the area plus a stop in ghost town Shaniko, today I continue on with our experience and tips for visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit of John Day Fossil Beds National Park. Then my next post will cover visiting the famous Painted Hills, one of the seven wonders of Oregon.
Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - at Sheep Rock Unit, the Blue Basin is probably the most famous area, where you can find the two hikes of Blue Basin Overlook to look from above down into the canyon, and Island in Time which takes you walking straight into the heart of the the Blue Basin gorge

There is no park pass or fee needed to visit any of the units. The colors of the units look best in the afternoon light, leaving you time to drive or sleep in if staying nearby before your visit. While it is possible to see all three in one day, you will need to account for one to two hours of drive time between each unit (not counting getting to the area first), and you won’t be able to enjoy all the trails so per my advice overnight at least 1 night preferably 2 nights nearby. That said both of these two units are ok to see earlier in the day to save the afternoon to sunset time for the Painted Hills for the biggest return on display and range of colors there. If you encounter rain, I would prioritize visiting in this order Painted Hills, Sheep Rock, then Clarno Unit.

Clarno Unit

The Clarno Unit is one of the three units of the John Day Fossil Beds National Park along with the Sheep Rock Unit and the Painted Hills. It is the smallest of the three units and IMHO I would rank it #3 in terms of beauty of the three, though part of it might is that Painted Hills and Sheep Rock offer more uniqueness. It’s the fastest to visit with three trails, and may be conveniently already on the way if coming from Portland.
Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit

The Clarno Unit is famous for its plant fossils and the Palisades. Located 1.5 hr north of the Painted Hills, it’s a little over 30 minutes from Shaniko so if you’re taking the Journey Through Time Scenic Byway from Portland, you could easily stop by on your way towards Mitchell and the Painted Hills.
Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit

In an area where you probably have been driving through valleys between gently rounded green hillsides, you will then come across these tall walls and towers of reddish orange, pink, white layers of rock. These are remnants from when this area was once a lush jungle 40-54 million years ago, and these cliffs were formed from volcanic mudslides or lahar, happening over and over building the layers you see today.
Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit

Among the layers and along the trailside you can find plant fossils including leaves, sticks, and petrified logs. No, no dinosaur fossils so reel in expectations accordingly. But the area is incredibly fossil rich – paleontologists have been making discoverers and categorizing hundreds of fossils a year since the 1860s! Seeing the strata of the remnants of millions of years is fascinating to look at.
Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit Visiting the Clarno Unit and Sheep Rock Unit - these are the famous Palisades of the Clarno Unit

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Planning a Trip to the Painted Hills

One of the seven great wonders of Oregon as Travel Oregon promotes is the Painted Hills. Located 4 hours east of Portland, the Painted Hills are actually just one unit of three that comprise the John Day Fossil Beds National Park. Besides the Painted Hills Unit, you can also visit Sheep Rock Unit (the location of Blue Basin) or Clarno Unit (location of dramatic Palisades). We visited all three March 25-26 2022, and we’re happy to share our tips in planning a trip to the Painted Hills and other units. This post will focus on getting to the area, and future posts will cover visiting each of the park’s units.
Planning a Trip to the Painted Hills - visit all three units that comprise the John Day Fossil Beds National Park in Oregon like we did. From top to bottom, the Clarno Unit, Painted Hills,and Sheep Rock Unit Blue Basin

Timing Your Visit, and Planning the Drive

Because this area is in the high desert, the best times of year to visit this National Park is in spring and fall, when the weather isn’t as hot, and you don’t have to check the weather conditions of the winter passes which could require chains or have limited alternate routes when there are vehicle accidents or poor conditions. During our visit in end of March, we enjoyed temperatures in the comfortable 60s-70s during the day that cooled off to the 50s (Fahrenheit) in the evenings. Even though we went on hikes that had no shade, it was pleasant because of the cooperative weather. We enjoyed partly cloudy skies and sunshine, but even if you get some rain during your visit, it’s a treat because it will intensify the colors you see in the rocks and soils of the Fossil Beds units. There is no entrance fee to enter any of the units, but note that only the Sheep Rock Unit offers a visitor’s center. Each of the units is about an hour drive from each other.
Planning a Trip to the Painted Hills - visit all three units that comprise the John Day Fossil Beds National Park in Oregon like we did. Here's a look at the Painted Hills from the Carroll Rim Trail

If you are coming from Portland, there are several routes you can take to the area depending on what you would like to see. The fastest route is to take Highway 26 through Mt Hood Village and Government Camp, and Madras and Prineville to get to Mitchell. This is the fastest route and has the best access to food options, gas stations, and cell phone service. Taking this route will give you views of driving to and through Mt Hood. It wasn’t open yet in 2022, but this route also can take you pass by Kahneeta hot springs. I opted to take this route on the way back, versus to, the national park – take two different routes to and from to make a circle.

Another route you can take is I-84 through the Columbia River Gorge, giving yourself scenic views there past Multnomah Falls and Hood River and part of the Dalles, and then taking Highway 197 or 97 down. Going this way, you can make a stop by going on Highway 218 to visit Shaniko Ghost Town, and also the Clarno Unit on your way as your first unit of the John Day Fossil Beds. You can also choose to swing up to Fossil to do your own fossil digging at the only legal fossil dig site in Oregon behind a high school (great overview here at YesDirt!)Planning a Trip to the Painted Hills - visit all three units that comprise the John Day Fossil Beds National Park in Oregon like we did. We took a circle route from Portland to and from Mitchell which we used as our home base to the three units

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Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit

One of the most unique activities you can do on a visit to Iceland is to do a glacier hike and ice cave visit. Glaciers are shrinking every year so see them now to enjoy them at the current state while you can. There are many glacier hike and ice cave visit tours available – going with a guide is a must as they have the experience to keep you safe. Tours are also highly dependent on weather, and the ice caves with the beautiful blue ice generally are accessible starting in fall through spring and not during the summer. That said there are some caves accessible in the summer as well – just with less blue. Our visit was in mid-October, and although the sun did not come out until later, we were still able to admire the unique blues of the ice even in the overcast sky and were grateful it wasn’t raining or snowing and not too windy either.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

The farther you get from Reykjavik the better the ice caves will likely be – so pay attention to where your tour will start and go, and if possible which outlet glacier. The marketing names for the ice caves, ranging from “Crystal Blue” to “Sapphire” or “Blue Ice” variations, make it hard to differentiate, and some require hiking in, others use a super jeep or snowmobile or other vehicle to reduce walking. The amount of time or size of the cave varies not just from cave to cave but also every year.

One of the ice caves on Langjökull Glacier is a manmade cave that is more of a tunnel. I think the natural glacier caves on Vatnajökull are preferable, though many more hours away versus easily do-able from Reykjavik. You probably want an ice cave of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and which has around 30 outlet glaciers. My impression is that the glacier hike and ice cave visit tours that leave from Jökulsárlón are larger ice caves then from Skaftafell or the ones on Katla from Vik. I also believe the Katla ice caves have less blue and more black ice from being part of Katla volcano. You will likely need to stay overnight somewhere in the Southeast coast the day before your hike in order to do the tours on Vatnajökull.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

The tour we went with Troll Expeditions was a glacier hike and ice cave visit from the Skaftafell Terminal. We hiked to the glacier past initial areas of volcanic and mossy fields so viewed the green moss landscape up close and the glacier from afar before actually walking on the glacier ice itself. Don’t walk on precious moss. Moss is slow growing (1 cm each year), and has short roots, so walking on the fragile moss can pull it up and kill it, and it take decades or even centuries to grow back. Moss could also be hiding sharp edges or crevices or holes in the lava field. So only visually enjoy the moss fields and stay on the trails.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

Of the 4 hour tour, probably about an hour was spent being fitted for our crampons and getting other gear like a helmet with headlamp, harness, and ice axe; driving to and where we were dropped off to start our hike; and returning our equipment. So about 3 hours of actual physical activity, and maybe 20 min actually in the ice cave. Our group was broken into two so half of us (we were in the first group of 9 of us, total group size for the tour was about a 15 people) entered first as it is a small cave. Then we switched where we exited and then toured and hiked the glacier with one of the two guides.
Glacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter TourGlacier Hike and Ice Cave Visit with Troll Expeditions from Skaftafell as part of the Skaftafell Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike Winter Tour

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Glaciers and Diamond Beach

This is part two of a three part recap of a trip to South Iceland I took in mid October 2021. In the first South Coast of Iceland highlight, I focused on Southwest Coast and waterfalls and an iconic black sand beach. For this post, I am going to continue on to the Southeast Coast and share the beauty of Glaciers and Diamond Beach, specifically at Jökulsárlón. In the next post, I will go into more detail as you can follow along with me on a Glacier Hike and Ice Cave tour. It’s possible to visit Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach without a tour, but for us, to save myself the effort of multi hours long drive, we opted for a 2 day tour with Troll Expeditions. They did the driving while we enjoyed charging plugs for our phones and wireless internet and the views and yes sometimes napping.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull. We arrived for sunset.

I knew when I was planning my trip to Iceland that seeing the Glaciers and Diamond Beach was among my top priorities. Glaciers are shrinking every year – so seeing them now is a chance to enjoy them at the current state which will not return again. Iceland, Alaska, the Alps, and Himalayas are particularly suffering the effects of melting at an accelerated pace. I would encourage anyone to check out the glaciers – climate change is science and real – to catch them as they retreat and will become smaller and over time less accessible for us to view. It will look different every year.

In particular, for me viewing the icebergs in the glacier lagoon and then the glittering ice of Diamond Beach that I will cover in this post is both melancholy and mesmerizing. Uniquely beautiful, but also understanding this is the consequences of the melting and slowly dying glaciers and the last the thousands of years of frozen water will be this sliver of glacier identity before mixing and disappearing into the rising ocean. It’s both appreciation and a little sorrow.

As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers of Vatnajökull National Park all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the tour van window on Route 1/Ring Road, up to our first glimpse of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Jökull means ice or glacier, and sárlón translates to lagoon in Icelandic.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road Glaciers and Diamond Beach: As you travel towards the southeast coast, you will likely already be catching several glimpses of glaciers. all along the way. Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier, covering 10% of Iceland, and has around 30 outlet glaciers. I took these photos out the Troll tour van door as we were on our way on Route 1/Ring Road

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Glacial lakes form from troughs eroded by glaciers. Jökulsárlón is the largest glacial lake in Iceland and is 200-300 meter deep and 25 km long, formed in a trough likely formed during the Ice Age but the ever-growing lagoon only formed around 1934. Before that, the glacier used to reach the highway. The glacier lagoon is filled with the meltwater from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Vatnajökull. There are also icebergs from ice blocks that have broken off/calved from Breiðamerkurjökull in the lagoon, eventuallymaking their way to the Atlantic ocean. As the glaciers recede up the valley, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is visibly growing in size and some may think will become a fjord over time. In the photos, you can see the icebergs floating from right to left towards the ocean guided by currents, winds, and tides.
Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull Glaciers and Diamond Beach: In the southeast coast of Iceland you can find the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, a glacier water lagoon filled with the meltwater and icebergs that have broken off from Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s glacier, Vatnajökull

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