South Iceland Waterfalls and Black Sand Beach

Iceland’s South Coast area is one of the quadrants of the picturesque road trip on Ring Road that goes around all of Iceland. This area is often further divided into Southwest and Southeast Iceland. Southwest is where you will find iconic South Iceland waterfalls and Black Sand Beaches, one in particular called Reynisfjara Beach with basalt columns that is among the most famous black sand beaches in the world. Southeast is where you will find glaciers including Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and the unique Diamond Beach. In this post I am going to cover South Iceland Waterfalls and Black Sand Beach first.
South Iceland Waterfalls and Black Sand Beach: Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is well known because this is a waterfall you will be able to walk behind

After adjusting to Iceland time after your possibly very early AM flight arrival (and possibly exploring early morning things to do and/or rainy day Reykjavik recommendations), I had suggested traveling the famous Golden Circle first as the initial sampler of Iceland’s natural beauty. Those are day trips, but now starts expanding into 2 days or more because there is so much to see as you head farther away from Reykjavik and you don’t want to lose time having to drive back. Staying as you travel this way also gives you more freedom to savor your stops here and pull over to unplanned unique sights all along the way. Head south to what many Icelanders and repeat visitors argue is the easiest to drive and can be visited over and over because the scenery is so stunning. I would agree with that assessment- on a future trip I will probably skip the Golden Circle now that I’ve seen it, but I would go south again.
South Iceland Waterfalls and Black Sand Beach: Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is well known because this is a waterfall you will be able to walk behind

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Golden Circle Highlights, Iceland

If you visit Iceland, you will inevitably hear as one of the must do activities to spend half a day or a day driving or being driven on a tour to the Golden Circle. Besides the famous Blue Lagoon and the rainbow Skólavörðustígur road leading to Hallgrímskirkja, photos from the Golden Circle are among the most iconic and frequently seen of Iceland. This is my version of Golden Circle highlights in terms of photos and what info about the site was interesting to me. Golden Circle Highlights, Iceland: Thingvellir National park, a site of both geological and historical importance. This is where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates face off each other and you can walk between them. Historically this is also where the Icelandic Althing or parliament met that would form the foundation of Iceland as a national identity Golden Circle Highlights, Iceland: Kerið Crater is a volcanic crater lake with blue-green water amid stark red v and black volcanic rock and yellow grasses and green mosses

The Golden Circle is a route to the three most popular natural attractions in Iceland: Þingvellir /Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area, and Gullfoss Waterfall. Strictly defined really that’s not a circle yet, but looping around instead of going back on the same road, you can see other sights ranging from Icelandic horses and geothermal greenhouse to Secret Lagoon hot springs to colorful Kerid Crater, as well as just other photogenic scenes that may lure you to stop and take in the view, all along the way.

Some have called it an introductory day trip sampler of what you could see along the larger Ring Road that goes all around Iceland taking multiple days or even trips to traverse. Some people even recommend you do the Golden Circle first because once you see the larger Ring Road the Golden Circle may not seem as grand anymore. I interpret this less as a statement about the Golden Circle, but just how breathtaking Iceland is, especially as you branch out farther from Reykjavik,that raises the bar even higher.
Golden Circle Highlights, Iceland: Gullfoss, or Golden Falls, unique as the waterfall plunges into a gorge so it seems to disappear into the earth

The Golden Circle sights are all within a 1-2 hour or so drive from Reykjavik. Taking a tour allows you to take in the landscapes without having to worry about driving in 40mph or stronger winds or ice if you come during colder months. Guides also provide you information about what you are seeing and sometimes tips of where to go for a good view, and you can sit back without driving or navigating. Fellow tour participants may help take photos for you.

On the other hand you are then limited time-wise to what the tour offers at each stop on their schedule, and you can’t stop at any interesting points along the way. You will always be in a group – not only with your other tour participants, but many tour buses take similar routes at similar times. There are many Golden Circle tours ranging from big tour bus to smaller tour vans. The tour itinerary may offer different stops beyond the big three, or different order of stops, so you will need to pick what interests you the most and what stops you are willing to skip.
Golden Circle Highlights, Iceland: Kerið Crater is a volcanic crater lake with blue-green water amid stark red v and black volcanic rock and yellow grasses and green mosses

A car is freedom, but also more work and responsibility to research. That said you can find self-drive travel guides to help with that. Also consider that you may find that you want to stay overnight around this area rather then return to Reykjavik, and if so you will want a car. For instance here’s my list of Golden Circle highlights that starts with the main three and then other stops you might want to consider on the Golden Circle route. 

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Rainy Day Reykjavik Recommendations

Is it a cold rainy miserable day in Reykjavik during your visit? Need a break from blustering artic winds? Well first, don’t fret – the weather can change in just an hour (or as Icelanders say, wait 15 minutes). I definitely found this to be true – it could be raining sideways or overcast and foggy or snowing, and an hour drive later between the airport or Reykjavik, or towards the Golden Circle, or the waterfalls in South Iceland, and it was clear and then the sun even came out! But let’s say you want something to do in Reykjavik while you wait out the weather. Here are some rainy day Reykjavik recommendations of things to do indoors.
Rainy Day Reykjavik Recommendations: visit Perlan Museum! Perlan's version recreates the Látrabjarg cliff but without pesky wind and rain or driving to Iceland's Westfjords and you won't even need binoculars. You can go up to interactive viewfinders and move them around to different points and get a little clip of what is happening - varying from the nest inside with a chick or the prowling of an artic fox or other natural interactions. Rainy Day Reykjavik Recommendations: visit Perlan Museum! If you have people in your party who are unlikely to take part in a real ice cave visit, Perlan has a manmade ice cave to give you a taste of the colors. The artificial cave is a 100 meter ice tunnel that uses 350 tons of real Icelandic mountain snow, and is kept at -15 °  C (5 ° F). The ice cave has glacier mice (Jöklamýs), moulins, a crystal cave section, and a piece sadly of Ok glacier, Iceland's first glacier that lost its status and was declared dead - a harbinger of what is to come for the rest of Iceland's glacier in the next 200 years.

 
 
 
 
 
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Early morning Reykjavik things to do

This is the first of a series of blog posts in which I will detail out my recent trip where I fulfilled a wishlist I have had for a while. This one is focused on early morning Reykjavik things to do. to start with though, let me note that visiting Iceland in 2021/now is definitely doable despite the current pandemic. The vaccination rates in Iceland are very high for the total population, and you can expect that the best things you want to see in Iceland are probably outdoors anyway. All visitors before they can get their ticket have to offer proof of a negative Covid-19 test (or proof of recovery from it) taken within 72 hours before even checking the luggage and boarding the plane, and this is true both ways. There is also an app that you must use when in Iceland to track your exposure and register- a barcode is required to show you have done this also to get your boarding pass.
All the things you need to board your plane to enter Iceland when visiting Iceland 2021

If you go in October like I did, you will also not have the huge amounts of tourists that generally go during the summer when it is the land of the midnight sun (aka super long sunshine hours). That said, there is still plenty of daytime during our visit in mid-October – dawn was around 8:30m and sunset around 5:30pm so pretty respectable compared to what yo would experience in the US too. Temperatures are also not what I consider cold compared to my upbringing in Chicago – only in the mid 30s-40s F, and the only chill you really get is from strong arctic winds. The amount of wind, which varied during my visit, could be 10-20 miles per hour (converting from their weather reports which are in meter per second) to a crazy 90 miles per hour! If you add rain, which pretty much means you will get soaked, prepare waterproof layer along with layers.

Likely if you come from the US you will end up landing in the early morning hours of the Iceland day – for me this was around 5:30 AM. If you are lucky your hotel or AirBnB may allow you to have an early check-in if it is available, or at least store your luggage. If you are wondering what else might be open this early in the morning in Reykjavik – not much. Here are a few things to consider doing

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Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack

One of the unfortunate casualties of the pandemic was the closure of Erizo, a multicourse chef’s menu restaurant in Portland offering sustainable seafood that was local to the Oregon Coast(sometimes caught by the chefs, usually purchased direct from the fishermen) and that included highlighting bycatch and invasive species. The space was small with only ~20 seats, and included close service in telling the stories of the sea. I did get to dine there one time before the restaurant that made the 2019 Eater The 16 Best New Restaurants in America closed. Good news though, as Jacob Harth and his team have taken up the mantle from Olympia Oyster Bar to pop up as a seafood shack at Nevør Shellfish Farm in Netarts in 2020 and continuing this year on Fridays-Sundays 12-5 pm with a “Parking Lot Soup” menu. During my super low-tide getaway, I made sure to stop at the Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack, and here’s a look!
Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack popup on Fridays through Sunday with Jacob Harth Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack popup on Fridays through Sunday with Jacob Harth Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack popup on Fridays through Sunday with Jacob Harth

The menu is everchanging based on what is available and fresh every weekend, though some themes – raw on the half shell, oysters bbq’d over fire, oyster skewers, seafood on thick bread varying from sardine to eel to if you’re lucky uni, soup, a crudo, a ceviche. Nothing except seafood, and currently no beverages so bring your own libations. They have a handful of picnic tables, as well as some benches and barrels for stand-up quick dining if you want to dine al fresco here in the air of Netarts Bay instead of the car. A port a potty is available, but no regular washroom or running water, so you might consider some wetnaps too. Some parking is available in their lot, or pull over alongside Netarts Bay road.
Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack popup on Fridays through Sunday with Jacob Harth Nevør Shellfish Farms Seafood Shack popup on Fridays through Sunday with Jacob Harth

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