This is my Chefs Week PDX 2017 Hearth Dinner Recap. As I mentioned at the other Chefs Week PDX Heritage dinner earlier this year that I recapped, this year Chefs Week PDX has scaled back this year to two events instead of being the namesake week long collaboration. This Hearth Dinner included 7 dishes from 7 participating chefs, and this time was hosted at Han Oak’s backyard and open dining area.
The fire pit and smoker were also outside, and for quite a bit of the evening ash from the hearth literally dusted over guests, fluttering in the air and peppering us like smoky confetti through the hazy summer sunshine.
The chefs helping to bring this together included Gregory Gourdet and Peter Cho, who welcomed us before the first course with some Union Wine bubbles. The rest of the dinner ($175) had optional wine pairings from Amity Vineyards available for each course for only $15. A portion of proceeds of the Hearth Dinner are being donated to Providence Cancer Center.
Special shout out also to Nicky USA, True World Foods, Whole Foods, and Valrhona who helped provide the ingredients used to prepare the meal.
And now to the photos of the food for the Chefs Week PDX 2017 Hearth Dinner Recap!
Craig Thornton, Wolvesmouth
Albacore, Dungeness Crab, Green Papaya, Kaffir Lime, Charcoal Chili Broth, Coconut Aracini
– Paired with Amity Vineyards Petillant Naturel
This was the favorite dish of everyone at the table for its complexity of flavors and its uniqueness- even though there were many components in this dish, they all seemed to mysteriously come together, and every bite was interesting even though the combination of tastes and textures you might get in each spoonful could be different.
Chef Craig wasn’t originally announced with the lineup and only referred to as the Surprise Guest. If you haven’t heard of Wolvesmouth or more recent venture Sharksteeth, it’s because they are in Los Angeles, not Portland. They are also not a traditional restaurant – they operate essentially as a supper club/pop-up. To me, they are if I had to explain, a mash-up of here in PDX Our Secret Supper where you don’t know the exact location until you are in, and you can only get in via a mailing list, and OSC gets to pick the dates and craft the experience. In terms of food, the strong flavors remind me a bit of Chef Javier Canteras of Urdaneta and Basque Supper Club but with modern culinary techniques that reminded me of Holdfast. Dining.
Our table got a chance to chat with him at the end of the meal and Chef Craig said he loves Portland but didn’t think his concept would work here so he started it in LA instead. However, I think the food scene has really matured here and I wonder if he’ll change his mind – he said may look at doing some pop up here or there (mentioning Justin Woodward of Castagna as a possible collaboration partner – after hearing him talk a bit that makes perfect sense, they both have very humble demeanors but incredible attention to detail.) For now, unless you are in Los Angeles, consider patronizing some of PDX places I compared him to.
Bonnie Morales, Kachka
Cured Mackerel, Hearth Made Tvorog, Bay Leaf Whitefish Roe, Sunflower Oil and Shoots
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2016 Willamette Valley White Pinot Noir
Who says you can’t pair fish and cheese? Not Chef Bonnie! I thought this was a delicious layering and compare and contrast the sensation of salt and a variation of basically a salmon and lox over cream cheese, from the briney hints with the fish, the bursts from the roe, and a tiny bit from the creamy slightly smoky fresh cheese underneath – all without being too salty
Gabriel Rucker, Le Pigeon
Peach Gazpacho, Mole Marinated and Hearth Roasted Mushroom
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2015 Willamette Valley Riesling
A super refreshing soup with extra depth from the bit of umami rich mushroom and brightened with the pineapple. I sorta wish there had been a little bit more of the mushroom and a second slice of pineapple in there to go with the whole portion though.
Doug Adams, Bullard
BBQ Lamb Neck and Cucumber Salad, Bread and Butter Onions, Yogurt, Basil
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2015 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
OMG can you please just open Bullard already please. I have mixed feelings about his new pornstache and Anchorman-esque look, but whatever makes him happy.
Peter Cho, Han Oak
Mentaiko Linguini- Spicy Cured Pollack Roe, Leek Ash Noodles, Shiro Dashi, Parmesan, Nori
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2016 Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc
If you haven’t had mentaiko before, it’s basically like having an Asian version of pastas carbonara but instead of bacon that salty fatty meat is swapped out for fish egg. So the pasta is creamy with flecks of saltiness in roe bursts.
Gregory Gourdet, Departure
Hearth Roasted Char Siu Duck Leg, Scallop XO, Ginger Scallion, Pickled Turnip
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2009 Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Noir
Really a picture says a thousand words here. For many people at my table this was their second favorite dish of the entire evening – I thought my duck meat was a little dry but given this was just roasted over an open flame I give a pass on temperature execution for this event anyway.
Eve Kuttemann, Sage Hen
Burnt Sugar Cake, Apricot Pit Glaze, Roasted Apricot
– Paired with Amity Vineyards 2013 Willamette Valley Select Cluster Riesling
Look at this incredible presentation – when the various servers came out all carrying big cake trays with two cake trays per table (each table had 8), it really felt like a birthday party in a way!
After Dinner Chocolates
After Party
Around 9:45-10 PM was the after party, where more people could join in with guests who didn’t mind lingering long (if they hadn’t already stumbled home, stuffed with food). This free after party included more drinks and food, with beverages from Double Mountain Brewery & Taproom and Union Wine Company.
Anchoring the awesome woman power table was first, Kusuma Rao of Ruchikala who created Lemongrass Neer Dosa, Shrimp Kofta, Banana Flower, Coconut Brittle
Alongside Kumi was Stacey Givens from The Side Yard Farm offered Nasturtium Wrapped BLT with Porky Crunchies, Cherry Tomato, Gherkin, Papalo Avocado Crema
Here’s a color photo view – it was getting pretty dim even with the pretty string lighting
While the ladies held down the food table outside in the grass, the guys dished inside Han Oak’s interior past the open garage door wall – Karl Holl of Spatzle and Speck was hand rolling and sticking these Pigs Ear Terrine, Coal Roasted Baby Beets, Horseradish-Ash Crema
Back in the actual kitchen, Matt Vicedomini of Matt’s BBQ worked with Earl Nissom of Paadee/Langbaan/Hat Yai and Peter Cho of Han Oak to plate Smoked Chicken and Queso Sliders
After this 5 hour eating and drinking extravaganza I worry for how I will survive Feast PDX 2017 – but I guess I’ll just have to do my best. Besides more personal stomach space space fortutude, cooler temperatures weather wise, the only thing extra I could have asked for is how I enjoy it when chefs explain the thoughts behind the dish at these dinners.
I hope you enjoyed the photos in my attempt to capture the beauty of the food and the amazing offerings, though I don’t think I captured a lot of the fun spirit that the chefs had or the camaraderie of strangers coming together for a dinner party all with an adventurous spirit for food. Some people came as a couple, or with friends, and there were several who like me, came alone and made new friends.
Keep an eye out for what Chefs Week PDX events are coming next by following them on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook.
And, if you don’t follow me on Instagram, do so and remember to check out my Instagram Stories – this is where I had posted videos of some of the action the night of which are gone now, but they were pretty fun!
Which of these dishes piqued your interest? Have you dined and enjoyed the food of any of these chefs before?
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