First Look at Chizu

As a cheese lover / cheese addict, when Chizu, the west side new outpost of acclaimed cheesemonger Steve Cheese Jones opened, of course I had to be there on their first day. Ok, maybe his name is only Steve Jones – but in Portland every restaurant with a Steve’s Cheese Plate is from this one and only Steve. This location of Chizu at 1126 SW Alder Street is just right next door to Multnomah Whiskey Library. Unlike MWL which only has a door leading down a hallway to it’s whiskey library enclosed atmosphere, Chizu has huge tall windows up front and you can see the whole dining space.

The dining area consists of one 6-top table by the front (the only official table and chair seating in the place) and then 12 seats at the cheese bar on high chairs. The space is tiny, 450 square feet, very intimate but not stuffy thanks to the 2 story height.

The seats at the cheese bar gives you only a narrow counter space for your table, but is also where you can also gaze at the beautiful wood and the cases of cheese, arranged like they were art pieces inside their glass enclosures. I did notice on one side of the wall there is a very small counter if needed for standing room but doesn’t seem like it could hold more than a beverage glass and maybe cocktail napkin with a wedge of cheese on it.

Chizu means cheese in Japanese. The concept of Chizu Bar is Japanese inspired, similar to that of a sushi/sashimi bar where you select your cheese a la carte on a paper card, or for your chosen price let yourself at the mercy of the cheese person for a cheese omakase, chef’s choice.

You can also match your cheeses with wine, apertif/digestif, non-alcoholic beverages, beer or cider or sake that Steve has carefully curated to a list of half a dozen for the wines or beer, only a handful for the others. Meanwhile the cheese selections number 30, which Steve is planning to rotate every  month. Each cheese, besides its origin and type, also includes a few helpful adjectives to evoke a general idea of the cheese’s personality.

Examples: from the cheeses my friend and I ordered during our visit on that first day: my favorite on her plate was the Veigadarte

• Veigadarte, a goat cheese from Spain: Fluffy Cheesecake, Lemon, Pepper
• Beaufort D’été, a raw cow cheese from France: Floral, Buttery, Hazelnuts, Cream
• Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk cow cheese from California: Decadent, Pungent, Bacon Fat

And here, my cheese selection that day. I really loved all three.

• Mountain Lodge’s Wonderland, a raw goat cheese from Washington: Pleasantly Goaty, Rustic, Apple Skin
• Sternschnuppe, a raw cow’s cheese from Germany: Tonkotsu Ramen, Nutmeg, Seeded Bread
• Westfield’s Capri Classic Blue Log, a goat cheese from Massachusetts: Fresh, Lactic, Egg Yolk

There are no hot dishes, all the cheese is pure uncooked form. But there are a few other accompaniments such as demi-baguette slices, pickles, hazelnut wasabi nuts, and charcuterie or this amazing Duck Board with smoked duck breast, duck salami and ginger pickles.

Certainly, in putting together a cheese board of 3-4 one ounce servings of cheeses, you can probably expect to be paying about $4-5 for each cheese on the board, and then additional for a little bread or maybe some other accompaniment, which adds up to close to $20 without counting a drink yet. And this can’t be described as a filling dinner. This is a place for starters or a just a bite to eat, not a meal.

However, it must be noted that the selection of cheeses here is really impressive, with many cheeses that are carefully procured from all over the US or the world and that you won’t see possibly anywhere else in Portland. If you want to really pick out some artisan cheeses, this is the place for you. The room is small but will probably turning over quickly since it’s just a snack.

Since this was only their opening day, I don’t know what will happen yet for Chizu. Even with the rotating cheeses every month, I worry whether there’s enough fellow cheese lovers in Portland to keep Chizu consistently supported since it’s just cheese in its pure form, cut from the wheel to you to pop on your mouth. The space is too small for them to do retail, so it’s for tasting cheese only right now. I hope he gets a list of cheeses in rotation online as seeing certain cheeses would draw me in… Man I hope burrata makes it in.

In the future I wonder if Steve might entertain doing special cheese pairing events (similar to the progression I love to experience every year at the Beer and Cheese Festival I have covered multiple times in 2014, 2013, 2012…) but with the advantage of being seated. Or, maybe a cheese journey or cheese class where he crafts the progression for us along with telling tales from the cheese makers, all in a small special omakase night experience. But I’m projecting here, and I’m curious to see where Chizu where go. Steve is understandably a bit busy as not only has he just opened Chizu, but the Cheese Bar 2/Cheese Bar Annex will be the food service in the space within The Commons Brewery that is opening in a few week.  So maybe when both finally have their doors open we can start to see more what the cheese empire of Steve is going to expand with.

Are you a cheese addict like me? What are your favorite kinds of cheeses? I love very buttery cheeses, aged cheeses that might even crystalline crunch to them, cheeses that have gotten extra special flavorings added such as a rub in rosemary or espresso or beer, added cumin, have been smoked… or cheeses that are very fresh so I feel like I might have just eaten it out of the cheesemaker’s kitchen and it was made just earlier that day (like Ladysmith. Burrata. Only one day or two old homemade ricotta never kept in plastic). Have you been to Steve’s Cheese Bar?