Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Menu

Very cruelly, I am about to share you the food porn photos of the dinner from Ryan Roadhouse’s heavenly pop-up, Nodoguro. The Nodoguro June 2014 Firefly Menu is no longer available- he is doing a new one for July. But, I hope this will encourage you to purchase reservations for one of his just announced pop-up dates in July, all starting at 6:30pm, of

• Tuesday July 8
• Wednesday July 9
• Tuesday July 15
• Wednesday July 16

Like in June, the space Nodoguro will be using is that of Evoe/Pastaworks on Hawthorne and includes nine courses for $85, gratuity and alcohol not included. I love the use of this space as it is very intimate in being able to watch him work and ask question. I also adore how with just a few simple decorations, they have been so successful at evoking a restaurant feel even though I know they just “popped” in, and successfully reinforced the firefly theme.

There is a new theme each month. Honestly, it doesn’t matter because whatever the theme, whatever he is serving, I am there. You will see below why- and don’t forget that I also went to his first Nodoguro Popup dinner and had a different menu in May that I recapped here.

Anyway, I am going to have a hard time explaining how exquisite this dinner was. I was impressed by the execution that was high in technique, precision, and thoughtful melding of flavors and textures that definitely called back to me the great care that chefs in Japan have. It’s a little disorienting every time I looked behind the counter and saw young Ryan softly explaining how one component of a dish consisted of 5 ingredients and 5 steps and yeah, those are just the greens that go with the eel. Every ingredient has been carefully and with great intention included in any dish.

For this experience, Carl Donheiser of Pastaworks created a special menu of alcoholic beverage service for the dinner that included some wines, sake, and a cocktail. The cocktail I had was the Nashi Sparkler with Cremant de Loire, Genki-Su Asian Pear drinking vinegar, Kumquat

Course 1: Squid Somen with Dashi and Radish Pods

So there in the above photo you see Ryan separating out the squid for the first course of the menu… this was one of my favorites because the flavor was a great light start but the texture was soooo cool. The radish pods, like many of the produce, comes from Phantom Rabbit Farms (check out their website for their series of farm dinners!).

Course 2: Oysters with spring garlic and citrus
I would eat these all summer long if I could.

Course 3: Chawanmushi topped with Dashi soaked Ikura and Wasabi
I still love chawanmushi, whether hot or cold. This is a cooler presentation because of the fish. I also always feel like I’m being given a present. The soft custardy feel of one egg against the pop of the other egg is just incredible.

Course 4: Green Strawberry sunomono
The little palate cleanser course. Ryan can put that aged miso just on rice and I would empty the bowl. I was pleased to see I was not the only one that after finishing the things you could pick up in this mini salad dish marinated in vinegar, picked up the bowl and drank the rest of the liquid.

Course 5: Cherry smoked black cod with miso jam and soba
One of my favorite courses. Who am I kidding, half the courses of this menu were my favorite courses. The play of the big smoke that yet did not overwhelm the delicate fish flesh and crispy skin was melt in your mouth and alluring.

Course 6: Canned Albacore with Roasted Pepper

Now, time for the most stunning presentation of the whole evening which consisted of all art on every plate. I couldn’t resist doing a whole photoshoot even though I really really also wanted to eat it.

Course 7: Sake poached Eel with cucumber and myoga

I always love eel, but I was surprised by how much I was smitten by those blanched greens which had been then dried, kissed by dashi and dusted with wasabi. The myoga here is the pink pickled Japanese ginger blossom

Course 8: Sweet Dashi omelette
And now, the start of the last two courses, desserts. It’s always delightful how both savory sweet this is

Course 9: Sterling Tiramisu
Everyone was rolling their eyes in ecstasy after taking a bite. There was silence. And then another small spoonful of it, it was such dessert sex. This was Ryan’s take on a tiramisu, although he admitted that as he made it, it kept getting farther away from an actual tiramisu except for the layers and the his original inspiration, the Sterling Coffee espresso reduction. Which was sinfully deep and dark, a counter to the lightness of the cheese cake (which was almost like panna cotta) and the texture and nuttiness of the toasted soybean (kinako).

Tea Service: Hydrangea Manju with Genmai Macha Tea
I am not usually a fan of sweet bean paste because it’s so dry and chewy. But, taken with tea like this, and just a few bites, and this version wasn’t as chewy, I did like how it brought a traditional close to this incredible meal.

I’ll be at Nodoguro PDX dinner in July. After all, I think it is currently the best Japanese omakase cuisine here in Portland. Will you try Nodoguro? What do you think of the courses of the Firefly June menu?