A Visit to Chihuly Garden and Glass, Seattle

I know. shocking, a post not on food! But, it does continue my Seattle series.

I finally had a chance to visit the Chihuly Garden and Glass at Seattle, just across from the Space Needle. I came here on Tuesday for a couple hours as I had to leave on the 6:30pm Bolt Bus so didn’t have the opportunity to see how the exhibit gets lit in the evening. It’s was a breathtakingly few hours though, as I admired the fragility and strength of glass, wondered at who in history was brave and creative enough to think to blow into molten sand, let the colors and organic shapes remind me of this world while also twisting and transporting me into another fantasy universe that was both surreal yet completely natural.

It is definitely more than an exhibit of just pretty glass of different shapes. It showcased a love of architecture and form, while merging structure with glass that seemed to defy structure in the way it melted and flowed, and then placing it in an environment in which lighting, shading, reflection, and nature be it the sky earth, greenery or water, became part of the art exhibit and not just the space around it. You could focus on the whole, or all the individual parts, each telling its own story. There was whimsy, and introspection, and as I learned, the love Dale Chihuly had for his childhood and his mother and her gardens, and years of admiring glass greenhouses finally come to fruition.

Here are a few peeks:

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Bathtub Gin and The Whale Wins

After the Seattle Bites Food tour mentioned in my last post, we stopped over at Bathtub Gin for a cocktail (ok, maybe I had 2 and we shared a third) before dinner. This was a destination recommended to someone by my friend, so I had no expectations given the lack of information on the website. But, I was so enamored of the speakeasy atmosphere in the boiler room in a previous life space, even if you have to walk down an alley (Gin Alley, but we saw no signs and just chanced that it was down the alley across from Spur Gastropub) and open a door with only a small plaque sign to find it. I mean, look at these beautifully crafted cocktails!

This is the St Peter’s Secret with Apricot brandy, hibiscus syrup, prosecco… followed by a shared Mimaloya, with Reposado tequila, Lustan fino sherry, allspice dram, pineapple juice, lime. Go ahead and admire the wall of beautiful alcohol in this library.

The Dealer’s Choice that the bar saw the bartender make for one table (which then resulted in an order from me and another party at this tiny bar that only fits 8, though there is more room downstairs with couches downstairs) included spicy rum and egg white and magic. It tastes even better than it looks.

After this the third member of this trio of ladies had arrived, so we made our way to The Whale Wins, which I only knew came from the same proprietors of the famous Walrus and the Carpenter. The menu here focuses on a lot of wood fired and local seasonal fresh ingredients that combines Northwest bounty with simple wood-oven roasted preparation but with creative, inspired combinations of those ingredients. They do a lot of plating at a large counterspace area in lieu of an open kitchen, and dishes are often served at room temperature. When first walking in from outside the space was very airy and full of light and straight lines reflecting the renovated warehouse space, but once through the doors you feel like you were sitting in someone’s large prep table in a kitchen of a country estate of Nigella Lawson.

Perhaps we ordered almost the half the items on the menu: 3 of the 6 vegetable plates, 2 of the 5 seafood plates, 3 of the 6 meat plates, and 3 of the 5 desserts. The menu says they encourage sharing, but the dishes are small. I helped drink half a glass of the bottle of wine, but with that Dealer’s Choice still lingering on tongue I had wanted to continue my cocktail adventures, so ordered the Shochu Think U Can Dance featured cocktail with shochu, yuzu, saler, and rosemary, very clean and refreshing. Several other cocktails sounded intriguing, such as the Finner with Jasmine Green Tea syrup with port, rum, pineapple and lemon, but I did have to go to work the next day.

The first dish to appear for us to share was the Local Roots Farm roasted carrots and fennel with harissa and yogurt and so we started out with a rocket launch of flavor.

I think I probably ate more than my 1/3 share of the Rabbit Terrine with Miner’s Lettuce and Shallot Aigre Deux, but I’m a huge fan of terrines and that shallot aigre deux was a wonderful complement. A little messier to share was the Matiz Sardines on toast with curried tomato paste and shaved fennel.

Even messier, crazy messy, but also crazy delicious that we were licking knuckles, was the Roasted Half Dungeness Crab with Harissa Butter. Perhaps I was last to get served from this plate so I just ate from the original plate with all that butter

Around this time the Local Roots Farm Roasted Turnips with lemon and marjoram, and I was torn between wanting these caramelized with hint of citrusy bites but needing to use silverware from the buttery madness of cracking and eating the crabs with my hands. The dilemma got even worse with the arrival of the Roasted Fava Beans with ricotta. Forget peeling to get to those individual beans if I can just eat them like this! All the vegetable plates are home runs here.

And then this incredible steak, the Painted Hills Filet Mignon Salt Roasted, sliced, and served at room temperature with sauce verte, potatoes, and fresh horseradish cream, arrived, and all three of us were quietly rolling our eyes. I tried to take small bites to savor it as long as possible, and saved it for my very last savory bite before dessert. All of us used our knives to wipe the horseradish away and just enjoy the smokiness of that meat. The last dish to arrive was the Mad Hatcher Roasted Half Chicken with parsnip and rutabaga puree, fried capers and preserved lemon. That puree was wipe your finger on the plate clean.

We wrapped up with 3 desserts, Lemon Shaker Tart with Creme Fraiche (the lemon and creme fraiche were excellent but there was something mealy and touch about the tart crust), the Spring Rhubarb Eton Mess (seriously it was a mess, the rhubarb is a bit much though I loved the crumbled meringue, it sounded better in its incarnation the week before that had berries, but I understand the use of whatever is at market), and the Butter Roasted Zucchini Bread with Creme Fraiche.

I am still thinking about how incredible this meal was, and I would return in a heartbeat to either/both Bathtub Gin and The Whale Wins.

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Pike Place Market Food Tour

The Seattle chronicles continues… Why just visit the market when you can taste your way through it? Not to mention, instead of just eyeing the various vendors, also learning some history along the way? Did I mention it was a food tour with lots of tastes?

After a quick refresh at our hotel, we walked over to the Seattle Art Museum, known as SAM locally, to start our Seattle Bites Food Tour of the Pike Place Market. We walked past SAM’s “The Hammering Man” on the Corner of 1st Ave and University St. (he hammers slowly every day except Labor day) to meet in front of the cafeteria where we were introduced to the guide and received our reusable bag, a map vaguely outlining some of our destinations, and a radio/earpiece so that we could always hear her no matter where we were as we were walking or how busy the market might get.

Seattle Art Museum SAM< Seattle Art Museum SAM Hammering Man Seattle Art Museum SAM Seattle Bites Food Tour

Our first bite was right there at Taste, the restaurant in SAM, with a taste of smoked salmon flatbread with crème fraîche and fine herbs. The Seattle Art Museum actually started out with a large collection of Asian art in the early 1900s, but then in the 1990s with the success of the King Tut exhibition, it expanded to the current downtown facility and the original location became the Seattle Asian Art Museum with which it still has links- you can visit both museums in the same week for the price of one admission ticket. About 5 years ago SAM also expanded to create the Seattle Art Museum’s Olympic Sculpture Park by waterfront park property to showcase outdoor sculptures for free. Taste Restaurant in the museum is close to Pike Place Market and sources ingredients from there, thus the tasting stop we had here.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Taste SAM Seattle Art Museum Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Taste SAM Seattle Art Museum

Next, after a little history of how the Pike Place Market was founded over the price of onions marked up by wholesaler middlemen from ten cents to one dollar in just a year, and the outrage resulted in a City Councilman proposing a public market that would connect farmers directly with consumers. Customers would “Meet the Producer” directly. The first day the middlemen that tried to tell farmers it was a terrible idea and only 8 farmers showed up, who were then sold out in hours. So the next day, more farmers came, and thus it has been going ever since 1907, making it the oldest continuously run street market in the United States. Armed with that lesson, we then walked to the market and now understood the large sign with the Meet the Producer over the market.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market

Next, we visited Crepe de France where we used the utensils and napkins that had been packed in the reusable bag for us on Crepe de France’s Paris-inspired fruit Banana and Nutella crepe with whipped cream. Pike Place Market’s Crepe de France is actually owned by an Indonesian woman (who you can vaguely see to the right behind the counter, her back turned to us) who we thanked as a group with a loud “merci beaucoup”.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Crepe de France Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Crepe de France Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Crepe de France

Next, we passed through Post Alley, passing by Britt’s Pickles on our way to Pike Place Market Creamery with its offering of dairy wonderland and the tale of Nancy Nipples the milkmaid (yes that’s her name!). We continued on then on to Pike Place Chowder in the portion of Pike Place Market that is called the The Sanitary Market, as live animals were banned in that area. Pike Place Chowder boasts “America’s Best Clam Chowder” after winning 3 years in a row after competing in Great Chowder Cook-Off in Newport (even though in its history no restaurant outside New England had ever won!). They were told to take a break from competing for 10 years, but they are in the Great Chowder Cook-Off Hall-of-Fame. The sun came out in Seattle as we learned about the music and busking in the Pike Place Market area, and then we visited Corner Produce for some various fresh fruit samples, freshly sliced with a knife in the producer’s hand as we stood there on the street.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Britt's Pickles Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Pike Place Chowder Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market

We turned back around towards the insides of the market to Saffron Spice for Mom-inspired chicken tikka masala from a classically French-trained South Indian chef, which was then washed down with fresh mango lassi fortified with more fresh fruit from the market.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Saffron Spice Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Saffron Spice

As we continued our tour, we stopped at some of the tiles of the market floor, part of the renovation from the original wood, and admired some tiles that had numbers. These are part of a love letter from a man to his mathematician wife: her favorite prime numbers are what he placed on the Pike Place Market tiles he purchased from her. We learned also about Rachel the pig who helps collect a few thousand each year to help fund the various social services the Market also provides to the community. I also took some shots of some of the beautiful and colorful flowers of the market, and some of the hustle and lights of the market.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market

Next was a sampling of hand-crafted sausage by a German master butcher, Uli’s Famous Sausages was followed by a stop just next door to admire the enormous crabs and taste Salmon- Alderwood Smoked and Teriyaki Smoked Salmon jerky from Pure Food Fish Market.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Uli's Famous Sausages Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Pure Food Fish Market Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Pure Food Fish Market

We then walked through the craftsmen part of the Market, and finally, we wrapped up our tour after the Gum Wall with tasting oils and vinegars at Quintessential Gourmet, where the epitome of meet the producer was experienced as he gave us recipes and suggested various combinations of flavored oils and vinegars that blew our minds.
Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Quintessential Gourmet oils vinegars Seattle Bites Food Tour Pike Place Market Quintessential Gourmet oils vinegars

Coming next… the best meal in Seatle of the weekend, at The Whale Wins.

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Melrose Market and Calf and the Kid, Elysian Brewery

After our stop at the Crumpet Shop, we made our way to browse Melrose Market in the Capital Hill area (almost a straight walk up Pike Street and then a couple blocks over, about 15 minutes away walking), which is a small market full of various artisans shops all together in the open space of one large building.

Looking at the selections of fresh butchered meats at Rainshadow Meats really put me in the mood for steak. And lamb. And pork. And sausage. And mortadella. And pancetta.

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I also stalked Sitka and Spruce- I so wanted to be sitting at that table right by that kitchen that seemed like I was eating right in someone’s home. You’ll see this repeated shortly at our dinner at the Whale Wins in a later post…

Melrose Market Sitka and Spruce Seattle

At Calf and the Kid, I bought two cheeses, but am even more excited about the fact that they had temporary cheese tattoos. Here are some of the selections of cheeses they offered and the fun descriptions they had (I’ve pulled out a few in bullets for those too lazy to click the photos to read):

Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle Melrose Market Calf and the Kid cheese Seattle

  • Quadrello di Bufula: “Soft yet strong; husky yet full of panache; the Brawny Man of cheese”
  • Harbison: “This sinful delight of a cheese should be rated R”
  • Tarentaise: “Yep, I could take a bath in this cheese”
  • Pondhopper: “Sweet, floral, and bathed in a beer, just like a prom date you’ll never forget”
  • Montgomery’s Cheddar: “Darth Vader in cheddar form. Feel the force!”
  • Caveman Blue: “Smells like a skunk in a sweatsock, tastes like pure blue cheese heaven”
  • Gruyere 1655: “The Liberace of cheese; rich, fruity and smooth as velvet on a baby’s ass”

We reluctantly parted ways and headed towards Elysian Brewery. We had to wait 10 minutes or so before they opened, and held ourselves back to only getting a sampler of the current specialty beers, and one glass of the special beer that caught my eye, the Superfuzz Blood Orange Pale Ale. They had other beers as well, but since they were their regular lineup we had some before, and figured we would be able to get them in the future if desired.

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We then returned back to downtown to get ready for our Pike Place Market food tour, which is the next food post. At this point, including the last post, we have only been in Seattle for 4 hours… if it sounds like the tour I am giving my friend includes a lot of walking and a lot of looking at food this day at various eating or drinking destinations .. you are correct.

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Mmm Crumpets

Last weekend, I was in Seattle for a couple days, both for work purposes but also to show a friend around Seattle on the Sunday before the workday and after work hours. I’m going to spread the posts out a little bit, but here’s a first taste.

We took the Bolt Bus- I can’t speak highly enough for the fact that it was faster than taking the Amtrak since it was a straight shot (and with no traffic on Sun morning to worry about at our early departure time at 6:30am) and the fare was only $15 for each of us. Later, our return cost us $8 a piece. The cost for both of our tickets round trip is the equivalent of the Amtrak fare. Now, Amtrak has a little bit more room in the seats and offers a dining car, but by choosing such an early and late bus schedule route she and I each had a double seat to ourselves and were fine. I got quite a lot of work done on the way to Seattle.

Bolt Bus Portland Seattle

Once we were there, we walked just about 15 minutes from where it drops off in the International District/King Station area and reached the downtown area and found our hotel for our stay the next two nights, the Hotel Monaco Seattle. This boutique hotel already had a room for us before 10am so we were thrilled to be able to put our bags in the room and then go off to our first adventure. If you stay here, make sure you sign up to be a Kimpton InTouch Loyalty member so you can get access to free wireless and also $10 room minibar raid! We did not partake, but they have a complimentary coffee stand in the morning from and a hosted wine reception every evening as well, something they kept as a tradition from their founder (who used to host these himself).

Hotel Monaco Seattle Hotel Monaco Seattle Hotel Monaco Seattle Hotel Monaco Seattle

I had signed us up for a Pike Place Market tour later in the day, so I tried to keep our stomachs mostly empty so we would be able to enjoy it. For a tiny breakfast, we walked towards Pike Place Market and had a small bite at The Crumpet Shop. On the way there, the city was still waking up, and it sort of peaceful as we made our way there. It was still overcast gray skies, but the flowering trees added color and cheer. Since it was early, the walkways were not crowded yet with people.

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And here’s the Crumpet Shop! I have walked by it several times and wanted to stop, but always was on my way to another meal stop. There was a line out the back door of the little store extends into the rest of the Corner Market Building (you saw a glimpse of it to the right in the first Pike Place Market shot above). The building has looked the same since 1912 when it was first built over the remains of a collapsed hotel from attempting to build a railroad tunnel underneath. Meanwhile, the Crumpet shop has been making fresh crumpets everyday in their kitchen (which you can see right there) for thirty-six years. Standing by the windows into the kitchen, we watched a man mixing the dough in a huge bowl that was 1/3 the size of our body, and a woman managed a whole griddle full of crumpets.

the Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market

We came through the front door which gave us a chance to peek at tables and what the crumpets looked like before we lined up in the hallway. The line moves pretty fast though- and you may find that it is barely sufficient time by the time you get inside to decide what you want from the menu of all crumpet but with various toppings. Well ok, there is coffee and tea and scones too, but really it is all about crumpets- sweet, savory, simple with just organic butter or a fruit topping, or all out with egg and smoked salmon cream cheese, or with homemade hazelnut chocolate and ricotta, or Stilton Blue Cheese and orange marmalade, or… yeah I had a hard time selecting just one. Their website doesn’t have the whole menu as shown below… there are probably more than 30 variations possible.

the Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market the Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market

A crumpet is a traditional English griddle cake made from flour and yeast, and then on the pan/griddle are put into rings which gives the crumpets it’s round shape and the way it is cooked is similar to a pancake, and it has a fluffy softness with a crispy edge that is similar to pancakes as well. They are thick in a way that is reminiscent of a bagel which is perfect for carrying the toppings and eating with with your hands, but with its flat top with many small pores and chewy spongy texture, it also like an English muffin. My ultimate selection was Walnuts, Honey & Ricotta (AKA The Walrus). My friend selected the crumpet with English cheese and tomato and pesto.

As you can see, these are very do-able as part any progressive meal. And now I’ll just let you enjoy the food pron pictures.

Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market crumpet with English cheese and tomato and pesto Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market crumpet with English cheese and tomato and pesto

Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market Walrus walnuts honey ricotta on a crumpet Crumpet Shop Pike Place Market Walrus walnuts honey ricotta on a crumpet CCrumpet Shop Pike Place Market Walrus walnuts honey ricotta on a crumpet

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