Market PDX Guest Chef: Naomi Pomeroy

Update: Market restaurant has closed since my visit

Looking to bring in dinner guests when there isn’t a show across the street at the Keller Auditorium, Market (which replaced the previous occupant French bistro Carafe) has been doing a guest chef series. I haven’t visited the location since its slight renovation and new conception into its new modernist northwest cuisine incarnation from Carafe’s final breath in June to Market Restaurant’s first opening in August this year. But when I saw Naomi Pomeroy was guesting, I decided it was time.

I hope that when I entered the restaurant the slight blush to my face was interpreted from the new cool weather, versus glancing over the young Asian men who now man the kitchen and bar (Executive Chef Troy Furuta – the bar manager is Alan Akwai). It also seems Naomi is trying the straight versus sideswept bang look- or she just got them cut. The $5 happy hour had the entire bar area packed and happily busy. Dinner-wise, with no show that Friday evening, the seating area there was maybe 1/3 full- seems like Market is still finding its audience.

For the guest chef series it is a prix fixe menu ($40), though you can also opt into a drink pairing, which I did at the steal of only $20. The meal started out with an amuse bouche of a black mission fig torched until caramelized and a bit of crispyness on the outside, then topped with delicate and decadant foie gras mousse. This was paired with a glass of Stephane Tissot Cremant de Jura from France. What an auspicious start.

1st course was a delicata squash tart with shaved watermelon radish and frisee and radicchio salad. This was paired with a cocktail of London Dry Gin, Vin a la Chataigne, Cap Corse Mettei. When I first had this cocktail, I started to worry about the other pairings as this as a pretty strong drink, but fortunately it began to mellow out after this. Admittedly, the strength of the drink was a good cleanser for the buttery richness of the tart, while adding to the frisee and radicchio which otherwise tasted like just the greens with a spritz of oil, nothing special- the watermelon radish was beautiful as garnish but offered no flavor.

2nd course, went into the more seafood exploration, an aromatic steamed link cod in smoked tomato broth, cannellini beans, leeks, tarragon, and sliced late summer grape tomato paired with Maestracci Reginu Rouge, Grenache/Syrah from France 2010. This was the most subtle, layered dish of the courses, with the broth being the equivalent of an andante second movement of a symphony and tomato being the melody because the steamed fish was on the bland side from being overcooked.

3rd course was what I had been anticipating all dinner. It was pork belly porchetta, pickled parsley, calabrian chiles and crackled green olive salsa, roasted market potatoes, pork and veal jus, paired with a cocktail of Agricole Rhum, Verjus, Amer Picon, Campari, pineapple and bitters.

As you would expect from Naomi who is famously photographed holding a whole pig about to be butchered (and presumably enjoyed at her regular restaurant Beast), this was a triumphant dish of multiple textures and robust meaty flavor. I enjoyed the hard crackly crunch of the slightly salty skin and the oozy thread of luxurious fat and moist but dense layers of tender sausage and pork,  and then a bit of fire and tangy sour distributed from the fine mince of olive and chili on top. It really taste as wonderful as it looks.

The cocktail was the best matched pairing of the night, cutting through the richness and ramping it up a notch with its bit of acidity and brightness. I made sure to save a potato piece to mop up all the delicious jus so the bowl/plate was clean.

4th course of mascarpone, Italian plum tiramisu, honey syrup, and dehydrated lemon was a light little layered cake that tasted airy and melty with its creamy texture without sitting heavily after all these courses, an appropriate finish after the porchetta just before.

I think I will have to try Market again on an evening without a Keller musical or ballet performance (or maybe arriving when the show has already started). I can’t believe they lined up Greg and Gabi Denton of Argentine grill and cocktail hotspot Ox the very next day after Naomi- I want to go, but I think my arteries can one take so much rich dining in a short time span.  Next on deck for Oct 20 is Nong Poonsukwattana of her Nong’s Khao Man Gai cart, followed the next evening by Chris DiMinno and Jeffrey Morgenthaler (the mixologist Prince of Portland in my opinion) of Clyde Common. The list of guest chefs only goes to the end of October, and I can only hope Market will continue this idea after the upcoming busy holiday Nutcracker performances of December.

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Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday

I recently attended a Caprial + John cooking class. This class was titled “Sunday Supper Tuesday” because the class was being held on Tuesday Oct 9th at 6:30pm, but was composed of recipes that would be perfect for a family Sunday dinner. The various menu items for the class included

  • Roasted Garlic Goat Cheese Dip with Crostini
  • Cappy’s Biscuits
  • Bacon Cured Pork Chops with Honey Glaze
  • Roasted Cauliflower with Crispy Breadcrumbs and Garlic
  • Parsnip and Caramelized Apple Puree
  • Apple Pie with Cheddar Crust

All my previous experiences with John and Caprial had happened to be in the summer, where they had held a supper club dinner and one cooking class both which were held at their beautiful home property (and which I blogged about previously). This time, I got to experience a class at a more professional location, Abby’s Table for the Kitchen at 609 SE Ankeny.

Similar to the setup at their home, they had lots of tall stools/chairs placed around the kitchen area so we could observe as they demonstrated the cooking techniques and their recipes coming to life, step by step. They also had long tables set up for when we could then eat the results of their demonstrations as our dinner not far away. Their recipes are already printed out and stapled together at the beginning of class so that as they were talking through creating each dish, you can write down any notes or extra tips they shared. As before, it is BYOB, whether your beverage be soda or beer or in most cases, bottles of wine.

We started out with the appetizer of roasted garlic goat cheese dip, which was placed in the oven and then we were served while we continued the class. I appreciate this pacing where we were allowed a snack, especially since as we get into more of the dishes the kitchen begins to smell torturously tantalizing. This dish was very quick, though they had already prepared the roasted garlic beforehand and just summarized what it took and showed us the end result because, well it is slow-roasted garlic.

Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class roasted garlic goat cheese dip Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class roasted garlic goat cheese dip Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class roasted garlic goat cheese dip

Meanwhile, Cappy carefully instructed us on how critical it is not to overmix the pie dough or the biscuits, and showed us how even though the mix didn’t look that smooth or pretty, how it would turn into moist tenderness later. She also advocated not using biscuit cutters because of the extra dough you end up having to reform and cut again, resulting in tougher biscuits- instead, she utilized a pastry dough scraper to create triangle pieces.

Seeing an experienced chef who’s done them hundreds of time from start to finish is definitely a great way to see exactly what it needs to look like, including how to eye it, which you can’t get just from following a recipe or watching a video or quick segment on show.  The fact that biscuits was on the menu was specifically one of the reasons I signed up for this class, and it was a successful lesson I hope (we’ll see when I try this myself next month).

Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class making biscuits Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class making biscuits

Meanwhile, we were shocked to find that she was not putting the pie dough in any pie tin- instead it went straight onto a baking sheet for more of a “free form” pie in which the dough is just folded into the center over the filling (sort of like a giant galette). I did not take a photo of the finished pie before the oven, but I do have the piece that was cut for dessert during dinner… personally I think I would added X-sharp cheese, and more of it… both in the crust, and probably sprinkled on top afterwards. Never can have too much cheese! And, pair it with a port.

Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class apple pie Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class apple pie

The other two vegetable sides included Parsnip and Caramelized Apple Puree and Roasted Cauliflower with Crispy Breadcrumbs and Garlic. Although the flavors of the puree were fine, I think I still prefer mashed potatoes or “faux” mashed using cauliflower. However, I appreciated learning the trick of heating the sheet pan in the oven so that when you pour the seasoned cauliflower onto the sheet to start the roasting process, you can get a sear on the side resting on the pan as well.
Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class parsnip apple puree
Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class roasted cauliflower

The main dish were these thick cuts that were marinated and then quickly seared Bacon Cured Pork Chops with Honey Glaze. You can also use chicken instead of pork chops. I knew I was with fellow peers when the other guests at the cooking class at my end of the table all poured a little bit of juice from the family style platter after serving themselves a chop.
Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class pork chops
Caprial + John’s Sunday Supper Tuesday cooking class pork chops

John and Caprial also talked a bit about the new micro restaurant Basa Basa they recently opened that specializes in Korean Fried Chicken and a few sides (rice, mac salad, ramen fries with Cappy’s special sauce) which seems remiscent of a Hawaiian plate lunch- carbs and chicken. The other neighboring micro restaurants in the same space specialize in meatballs, burgers, and tacos apparently- mega meats around the world! I haven’t thought about Korean Fried Chicken for a while and now I’m craving it, dammit. I might need to wait a bit to visit  though after the amount of butter and cream I saw going into the Sunday Dinner recipes. I know they were making enough for 2 dozen guests, but a few of us guiltily giggled how we’ve never seen cream in half gallon containers before… and they used multiple containers of them during our class. Same with bricks of butter as wide as the size of my hand. The roasted cauliflower is definitely the healthiest dish on the menu (and the only recipe without butter and cream- second place is the pork chop that doesn’t have cream or cheese at least).

While they are working through the new restaurant, John and Caprial are still going to be teaching classes once a week, and supper clubs once a month- check out their website for the menu details of each event they have scheduled.

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Wedge 2012

The Portland Celebrates Cheese Festival “The Wedge” was back this year on the streets just outside Green Dragon. At a requested $5 donation to benefit the non-profit Oregon Cheese Guild, the entrance to this tasting farmers market of 25 cheese and artisan producers of the Northwest, as well as being able to enjoy in the street “beer garden” music and beers from Green Dragon/Buckman Brewing is well worth it. In addition, Murray’s Cheese from New York (now experimenting with mini-stores at three local Fred Meyers) was offering 3 Cheese Seminars. Unlike last year where from entering the festival it seemed like I was in a neverending line from booth to booth, this year the festival was more organized and spread out, so that I could easily skip and move booth to booth, with never more than a handful of people between me and cheese samples.

Since I love cheese so much, I was already pretty familiar with most of the cheese producers present as I am already a customer at the Farmers Market or the grocery store. It is still a great opportunity to sample cheeses from these vendors that you may have seen and wondered about, try samples from their offerings that are not available to try before you buy (for instance Fraga Farm Goat Cheese and Willamette Valley Cheese had all their cheeses available to sample this day) or try new cheeses they didn’t know they produced. The vendors also are selling the cheeses so you can do your cheese market shopping at the same time! Next time I think I will be more prepared and bring a little cooler bag.
Tillamook Loaf little van  cheeses from Willamette Valley in the case they brought for their boothLa Mariposa cheese has Argentinean roots La Mariposa cheese has Argentinean roots Portland Creamery sells theirs in pretty small packagesfresh cheeses of Bellweather Farms

New to me was trying out the Cheese Plate PDX food cart, as they were offering tastes of their own homemade crackers along with their own fromage fort and fruit or Cavi-art Seaweed “Caviar”. Meanwhile, although I have loved Tumalo Farms Pondhopper cheese as it is spiced with beer, I found a new crush on their nutty Classico. I also enjoyed the sweet burn of Ssmith’s Hot Pepper Sensation “Merlot” spread. Definitely filing all these away for the future.

My favorite cheese vendors of the day were 1. Fern’s Edge Goat Dairy who I believe offers the best local chevres, though they are only at a few select local retailers. Their Apricot–Honey Chèvre, Pear Anise Chèvre, Blueberry Ginger chevre, and my favorite of them all the Fig Walnut Sweet Chèvre with fig, walnut, honey, offer a lot of depth of flavor along with the creaminess of the goats milk cheese that is better than any flavored cream cheese ever. 2. Cypress Grove and their always dependable tasty cheeses, such as Midnight Moon, Humboldt Fog, Truffle Tremor, and a new dill goat cheese called PsycheDillic that uses dill pollen.

The seminars from Murray’s cheese included including one for beer and cheese pairing, one to educate you on the cheeses of the NorthWest region, and how to complement your cheeses with honey, jams, nuts and fresh fruits to make a killer cheese plate experience. I went with the beer and cheese pairing one, which was a partnership of Murray’s with Rogue.

I loved that they gave out a little packet of class notes that we could write on, and best of all, which included a section of different adjectives to describe cheese and tips about how salt reinforces bitter (so you want to put saltier cheeses with sweet), pairing the beverage and cheese so they have finishes of similar lengths. The “what grows together goes together” might be a bit more difficult beer wise as a theme, but would be great for wine and cheese pairing. The matches that we tried and discussed included

  • Good Chit Pilner with Mt Townsend Creamery Cirrus
  • Morimoto Soba Ale with River’s Edge Chevre Siltcoos
  • Ore-gasmic Ale with Rogue Creamery Hopyard Cheddar
  • Chipotle Ale with Willamette Valley Brindisi
  • Chocolate Stout with Tumalo Farms Pondhopper
  • Hazelnut Brown Nectar with Rogue Creamery Smoky Blue

Rogue Ales also hosted a Grilled Cheese Bar station that offered 3 artisan cheeses for the ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich: Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, Rogue Creamery & Rogue Ales collaboration of Rogue Hopyard Cheddar, and Portland Creamery’s Oregon Chevre. Paired with a couple more beers from Green Dragon, it was a perfect finish.

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Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

A dinner at Nostrana, thanks to a special event that evening… egg pasta handmade from scratch and done the old fashioned way with a rolling pin from the tradition of Bologna and the Emilia Romagna region. Francesca (and her brother Tommaso) are from Bologna, Italy and doing a 1 month “pasta class tour” in the US that had started with Texas and then Seattle and had stopped in Portland next before going off to California for the rest of October (go to her website and email her if you are interested in signing up). I’m jealous that she was only in my area for a week but California is getting her for a month for opportunity of learning from sweet Italian girl (at least she appeared that way whenever I glanced over to the banquet table where she and her brother, Cathy Whims, and other guests were having dinner family style right next to us…). It seems a lot more lighthearted fun (and less intimidating) than learning from an Italian grandmama.

Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

I started out with a wine flight of Vini del vulcano, red wines from Mt Etna “a magnificent wild terroir”. I’m a big fan of wines made from grapes in volcanic soil regions. I was in love with the middle wine especially, a Etna Rosso DOC I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ 2007 from grapes of 100+ year old vines, because it was so smooth and almost buttery in feel while being light berry forward. Meanwhile, F was excited and enjoyed some tasty Italian beers such as D’uvaBeer by LoverBeer and Genziana by Birra del Borgo.
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims,

Starterwise, both the salad (Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar) and House charcuterie plates were big hits. I was glad they refilled our bread plate so that I could use it to balance out all the rich meaty goodness. The House Charcuterie plate included, from upper left corner clockwise, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, bread service with olive oil Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar Nostrana, Cathy Whims, House charcuterie plate, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash

Finally, the beautiful handmade pastas from Francesca Tori, thick and doughy and fresh. The favorite pasta was the Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter (although maybe a little too generous with the butter, but nothing a little shake couldn’t help with), although the wonderful sauce with the Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano was good enough to drink as a soup.
Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano

We wrapped up with a Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espresso and Pizzeria Mozza’s butterscotch budino with salted caramel. You cannot go to Nostrana without having budino!
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espress Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel

Nostrana will sometimes host various dinner and even cooking events with visiting chefs, so keep an eye on their Facebook and website to see what Nostrana is exploring next!

 

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Soup, Salad, a Sandwich at Picnic House

It seems that it is suddenly autumn. A week or so ago, it was 90 degrees and humid, still summer. Now, the mornings are brisk and dewy cool so that you need a jacket and layers, and the dusk and darkness of night falls sooner and sooner. Crunchy leaves are littering the ground, and the geese are already here on their way to apparently California?

Since Picnic House has opened, it has become a regular stop every 2 weeks or so. Most of time on the way home, F will grab my favorite Nutty Brown Rice Salad, a mix of crunchy brown rice and roasted cauliflower, carrots, turnips & sweet peas in a roasted hazelnut vinaigrette, while he rotates through the salads himself depending on his mood. It’s a huge salad- enough for two meals on its own. After a stop at Benessere Oils and Vinegars store (where I cannot resist, even though I already know the specific flavor infused olive oil I want, to taste 4 other olive oils or balsamic vinegars), we met up to actually eat there among the charm.

With the cool breeze rustling the leaves around the South Park Blocks, soup and a sandwich sounded like just what we needed for some warm comfort. The summer corn and sweet pea soups have been replaced, although this being Oregon full of tall shady trees and rain making fungus plentiful all year ’round, the wild mushroom soup is still on the menu. He had the roasted tomato soup topped with basil cream and fresh oregano, not pictured. Meanwhile, I went with the spiced pumpkin soup, topped with cranberry cream and chipotle peppita seeds.

The dinner entree is listed as “Soup and Grilled Cheese” entree… but which bonus surprise! comes with a small salad too. The spiced pumpkin soup was very mild in terms of seasoning, presenting mostly soft creaminess as you would expect from any cousin squash soup. The cranberry cream and chipotle peppita seeds gave it some interesting depth of a bit of tart and crunch here or there. With the doughy melty grilled cheese, it was a little too much, so I had the soup and sandwich separately while taking bites of the arugula salad (along with gorgonzola bits and candied pecans) to cut through that richness. F had no problem dipping his grilled cheese into his roasted tomato soup though.

Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich

Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich Picnic House, Soup, Salad, Sandwich

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