Travel food… part 2. Oregon Coast, Austin, DC.

After our squirrely friend and a tasting at Flying Dutchman winery where we really liked their Wild Blackberry port (this was one of two tasting rooms we visited during the Coast- the other was Nehalem Bay with amazing light mixable wines), we went to our Moolock Shores hotel for our themed rooms to drop off our stuff and try to find dinner. Since the men were in the front, even though I handed a map to the front they somehow missed the "Historic Bayfront" signs along the street and on the map. We ended up at Panache because I had remembered it from a bit of internet browsing the day or so before and I had at least caught some signs mentioning the Nye Beach area. It has a cute interior as it exist inside an old English styled house. The chef started out by sending out pairs of tasters of the roasted tomato seafood soup and the New England clam chowder with bacon. I hadn't had good chowder in a while, so I chose that as my starter (it came served with a Parmesan crisp) before my lamb chops. The salads also each came with a Parmesan split, even the split portion of the Caesar, and the greenery was fresh and crisp. The entree of the risotto and polenta cake dish was really great as a vegetarian dish. The dessert was just as beautifully presented.

  
   

   

 

The next day, we spent it in Newport, with the highlight being the Yaquina Head Lighthouse- we had visited Yaquina Bay earlier, but my reading of the map saw two lighthouses, and the one we had been admiring from our beach motel view was exactly Yaquina Head, not Yaquina Bay, lighthouse. The beach there is all rock, which made it hard to walk but unique from normal beaches that have sand, and there was lots of cool smoothed by the sea driftwood. Whenever the waves would crash, it "played" the rocks as it retreated back which was very peaceful along with the sounds of the winds, surf, and birds. Unfortunately it was pretty windy and chilly the entire time we were at the Coast. Once we walked to the lighthouse, we almost felt like we were watching something you'd see in National Geographic or BBC's Blue Planet with the seabird colony.

After the coast, I was off to Austin, Texas for work. Since it was a touch work week, I didn't get to really research any place good before I arrived. I was lucky enough to try barbecue twice though: once at Uncle Billy's and the other time at Salt Lick. I couldn't decide which bbq meat to try, so I went with the 2 meat special each time. That is very filling by the way as a lunch item.

 

 

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I arrived back on Friday to go off to the Umqua Valley Wine Barrel Tour. I'll write a separate post on that. I'll just skip to after the weekend, when I was in the DC-Baltimore area. The highlight meal was at Central, Michael Richard's more casual restaurant since Citronelle was not in my budget. The Faux gras terrine and country pate was my appetizer: the faux gras terrine really does deserve all the praise and hype as it really is amazingly smooth and rich. The country pate wasn't bad, but I'm spoiled by Chop at the Portland Farmer's Market and when I can get it fresh like that, Central can't compare. The lobster burger was ok, certainly not worth the price tag- give me a lobster roll instead please. The fries that accompanied the burger were nothing to write about- even Chicago's Rockit Bar and Grill can do better as they offer wonderfully crisp truffle fries with their lobster burger, and it's tastier as well as cheaper.

 

I'll cover the Umpqua Valley wine trip and the tour I went to next post. Like last time though, I wanted to end on an amusing note… my new over mitt, courtesy of the Saturday Market (which we went to on Sunday)…

 

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Travel Food… part 1. Starting in Portland to the OR Coast

Since my last post, I went to the Coast for a weekend, and then spent a week in Austin for work, a weekend in the Umpqua Valley on a wine barrel tour, and then a week in the DC/Baltimore area.

Let's start with the start of my travels… which wasn't me traveling but greeting travellers, the in-laws.

A initial dinner when the in-laws arrived at Mama Mia Trattoria because Portabello was closed and they specifically wanted Italian pasta (not pizza). Here is where your first basket of bread includes garlic bread. I actually didn't get to try any though, and the pasta was ok, with the only impressive thing being the size of the fried ravioli appetizers (monster ravioli size!). I feel privileged that I can think back to some incredible pasta meals like at Trattoria No. 10 and Spiaggia in Chicago, but I haven't found an equivalent favorite Italian place in Portland yet.

I had to work, so did not go with them to Edgefield for brunch or to explore the gorge, but after they came back I took them to a dinner at Wildwood, still one of my favorite Northwest cuisine restaurants (and they have their own parking lot). We enjoyed dinner so much we didn't take photos until dessert

 

Then we were off to the coast, which meant a stop at Camp 18. We sat by the windows which faced all the birdfeeders, and enjoyed watching various types of birds also come get their breakfast as we enjoyed our enormous portions surrounded by examples of the beautiful wood you can find in the Northwest. There, ordering 2 pancakes yields pancakes that are each bigger then your face, a side of potatoes is an entire plate-ful, one biscuit with gravy comes on a plate swimming with sausage-y gravy and each half of the biscuit seems the size of a normal biscuit. Yes, I will always stop here on the way to the coast.

A stop at the Seaside Aquarium and Cannon Beach lead to a stop at Tillamook Cheese Factory and a grilled cheese sandwich and some Tillamook ice cream/sorbet. and a very sexy marionberry pie.

We finished off at Devil's Punchbowl… where we fed a cracker to a new friend we met.

More coming next post…

 

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Countdown to the Coast…

For the first time, my parents-in-law are coming to the northwest, and as part of their week here we are taking them to the Oregon Coast. I actually haven't been to the coast for years- the first couple times I visited here, I usually got at least a day trip, but when it actually came time to investigate moving here and now having lived here, I never went.

The last time I went, we drove with friends from Seattle and stopped at Camp 18. I still remember how crunchy and perfectly executed in a non-greasy fashion the fried halibut sandwich with sharp Tillamook cheddar and super crisp steak fries were. Every single steak fry was extra crispy crunchy, not a soggy one in the bunch.

We are doing a very similar drive this time, though obviously our starting point is Portland this time. We'll be swinging past on 26 to Camp 18 for breakfast and then onward to Cannon Beach, and down the coastline, stopping at Tillamook (where I will find room for a Tillamook Grilled Cheese, and ice cream, thank you) for sure but also any other places we see fit (like Devil's Punchbowl and Mo's Clam Chowder snack at Otter Rock) and wrapping up at Newport with a visit to Rogue. We also have the Newport Aquarium in our sights but only if we get in early enough and not distracted by the coastal beauty- which really depends on the weather.

I am not sure what exactly my parents-in-laws like to eat, but as a snack to have around the house, besides lots of lemonade and a carton of OJ and lots of beer and wine, I also went to the Portland Farmer's Market (I go so often I don't even bother to post about it) and picked up some cheeses (Chipotle Cheddar and Rosemary Cheddar from Rogue Creamery and blue cheese from my usual dairy lady of Jacobs Creamery) and as another bonus, boar and apple pate and farmer's pate from my favorite meat vendor, Chop Butchery. The poor guy (Eric Finley) was just getting overwhelmed today- it's always a popular one for people coming to taste, and they always taste all of the pates he has out which can be 4-5, so he's chopping and answering questions and trying to see whose orders he needs to take. One guy kept asking him what was each pate displayed, even though ahem, there were clearly signs in front of each block of wood with the pate offering and he tried to tell the guy to just read while at the same time dealing with a woman who was asking about his sausages, wanted one he was out of then wanted to try one that he didn't have for sampling while half a dozen more people were crowding just our inner circle of 4 in front of his table.

I just tried to get in and out of there as fast as I could with my pates (ok, maybe I threw in a duck confit for myself), not wanting to be a bother. It was a bit sad because I've actually stopped here a dozen times, but he never has time to really talk anymore, unlike when he first opened the stand. Though hey dude, maybe you should consider bigger signage. The flowers I purchased just had a big blue paper where with marker was written simply "1. Pay for a ready-made bouquet or 2. Tell us your custom order and we'll build it for you now or you can pick up later" so that despite the language barrier of the little flower factory they had going on, you knew exactly what the system is. Signs are so cheap and can really help a farmer's market vendor out. I know he uses the same chalkboard thing since he started, but when you have people surrounding you 3 half-circles back you need to get people to process information and make choices faster. I do appreciate that most of his stuff is $5, making for easy cash transactions. 🙂

The Portland Farmer's Market is just not a place that you can always take the time to know your vendor anymore. They doubled the size compared to last year, and although there are some new vendors they didn't add double the vendors, they are trying to allow more spacing. Still, with the number of people who come to the market now, it is still really, really crowded, too crowded for relationships with the farmers and more just a economic market of buyers and sellers just trying to get things done, though it is a very happy family and friend time on the buyers side. Lots of families with their strollers or kids, which I appreciate seeing future generations appreciating their food coming from the land and not a shiny corporate grocery store. When I was growing up, my mom stopped at several family owned groceries and farm stands (my favorite one was one where I always wanted to get fresh apple cider).

I miss that personal part- even though I go every Saturday, I know the farmers can't possibly remember me with everyone they see in that half day- but I'm glad that so many people are supporting them, even and especially in this economy. Hopefully, this will mean even more growth next year, and continues the cycle of appreciating what food should look like and come from. I suppose if I really wanted to talk, I could get my butt up earlier in the morning too. Very early when it is just opened, or in bad weather, are my most leisurely experiences with the market. If we have a chance, it would be nice to take the inlaws to the market, but knowing that the experience will be so crowded, it's not a top priority- Saturday Market is more that browsing feel we are hoping for.

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April showers bring May flowers, you promise?

The second of super crappy days… sure there are brief times of brilliant sunshine and blue skies… and then it gets really cold and windy and grey and you are pummeled with rain, or sometimes hail.

I can't wait for the weather to stop being schizophrenic and really hand us spring and summer. Just the other week, a better April day… a glimpse of flowering trees and Mt St Helens

 

Just last year, another nice April day… a glimpse of flowering trees and Mt Hood


And 2 years in April… well, I wasn't in Portland so not flowering trees and no mountains. Apparently, the pictures I took that month was a dinner at Moto, which included visually interesting dishes like an edible menu and the "Roadkill of Fowl" dish! It certainly accomplished Homaru Cantu's goal of being memorable.

 

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2010 Eat Mobile Food Cart Festival: the retrospective

We were excited to pre-purchase our tickets for the 2010 Eat Mobile Food Cart Festival even before they were on sale, and so it was no surprise that we planned to show up 30 minutes early to start snacking on our 30 samplers from the 30 carts right at the opening bell. The event sold out (capped at 1200) people, and even though they spaced it over 2 1/2 blocks under the Morrison bridge it still got very difficult to navigate through lines just to get from cart location to another after just an hour after opening. Portland people do love food carts.

First stop was Vietnamese Banh Mi Sandwiches, which I passed on because it’s relatively close to where I live. I’ve had their sandwiches twice: not as good as Best Baguette, but then again this is a cart not a restaurant, and they still are able to offer 8 sandwiches (Best Baguette offers about a dozen, but they also can offer freshly baked bread and other pastries since they have more space at a brick and mortar location). If you are looking for banh mi sandiwiches in the downtown area, I’m not even sure there is anywhere else in the city proper as they are pho houses that I’ve seen.

Next was Sip, a cart offering organic vegan juices and smoothies. I confess I went back for their tastings of their green smoothie with kale, spinach, and some citrus fruits like apple or orange or lemon) twice. Their location at Division and Powell in the neighborhood of the People’s Food Coop isn’t an area I go to, but they plan to have a second mobile (actually mobile like driving around) in the summer and are also adding some food to their menu, so I hope to find them again. A lot of the food carts that people seem to fawn over involve pretty unhealthy food that is often rich and savory, but it doesn’t always have to be that way and it’s great to support food carts that are also tasty but even good for you.

Micro Mercantes were cutting up their jalapeno cheese, pork, and chicken tamales for tasters, and I doused my pork one liberally with my favorite green chili and enjoyed it quickly as I was trying to move through carts quickly before the rest of the line behind us caught up. Even though I linked to their official website, there isn’t much information on it, but it does communicate one tidbit many may not know: this cart is actually a coop for Latin women to help economically empower them through their tasty tamales. Their presence is at various farmer’s markets and their cheap $2.50 homemade tamales helps them establish a community via housing, healthcare clinics, a credit union, and community centers. I’m not sure which farmer’s markets they’ll be at this year (I know they are not at the ones downtown), but I know they are at the markets closer to OHSU, one at the Pearl, and several more on the east side of Portland. How can you not want to at least get one tamale knowing this every time you see them?

Moxie was on the ball with their platters of homemade granola with greek yogurt and raspberry rhubarb compote. With all the rich food the other carts were offering, this was an incredibly tasty break for the palate, and they had the most beautiful stop in terms of setting up a feel for who they are at their station at Eat Mobile, so no wonder they wonder they were awarded Best Style of Eat Mobile. They are located at North Mississippi and North Shaver and are very well known for their homemade take on brunch (and people appreciating them, as judged by waiting in long lines) 

PBJ’s Grilled was one that I saw on the list but had not heard of- and it turns out it is because they are still at the “coming soon” state. PBJ was a surprising discovery of taste for me with their offerings of various takes on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches in the same vein that grilled cheese has gone gourmet- and they did it very successfully. I’m not usually a fan of pbj sandwiches, but their offerings had me coming back for 3 of these (I just wasn’t satisfied tasting just one and not knowing what the other combination’s taste profiles would turn out to be- a cruel tease)! When they do open as an official food cart (they are opening April 26 at NW 23rd and Kearney Street), I think they will do well: they were even a runner-up for best tasting food at this Eat Mobile Food Cart Festival as voted by a panel of culinary professionals.

It took a while to understand their selections though: and their write-ups on the table were not very illuminating. The more you document on a big sign the less you will have to explain! And make it big so that by the time someone comes up they already can pick out what they want instead of processing under pressure. There’s the process manager in me thinking how I would set up a cart. Although I don’t think the tasting versions had all these ingredients, the regular offerings off their future menu include the “Good Morning” had blueberry jam, apple wood smoked bacon, 100% maple syrup, PBJ’s peanut butter, while the “Wildflower” had peach jam, wild flower honey, PBJ’s peanut butter, the “Pumpkin Pie” is a sweet dessert-ty concoction of pumpkin butter, Two Tarts caramel sauce, pie crust, PBJ’s peanut butter. I still prefered the “Spicy Thai” with orange marmalade, sriracha, fresh basil, curry, PBJ’s peanut butter and the “Betty” which will be Gruyere cheese, bread and butter pickles, white pepper, sea salt, PBJ’s peanut butter. I’m going to try to make it to their opening, we’ll see if I get caught on some work call or if I can continue my investigation.
PBJ's food cart at Eat Mobile 2010

F’s favorite and his People’s Choice vote was Asaase Ital Palace, African-Carribean food that is vegan/vegetarian: I had to admit their “fish” did taste like fish. I only had a shared bite of Fat Kitty Falafel, where they were already behind in the first 20 minutes as they struggled to produce their freshly fried falafel in time to meet the crowd. But, their falafel deserves the buzz it gets. Addy’s Sandwich Bar was trying to offer 5 different types of tastings, which was quite ambitious… for what at the opening was a one woman operation. The “line caught Oregon tuna with capers, red onion, cornichon and house mayo” was good, as was the rich “country pate with dijon and cornichons) and the “duck confit with cranberry relish”. This cart is located at SW 10th and Alder, not far from the trolley line and in company of other great carts such as Nong’s Kao Man Gai, Eurodish, Zita’s Pitas, Altengartz and Savor- a very strong cart pod. I have them on my wishlist to try their consistently well reviewed ham, gruyere, and butter sandwich, which did not make the tasting menu at Eat Mobile.
Addy's Sandwich Bar at Eat MobileAddy's Sandwich Bar at Eat Mobile

After 2 weeks of pizza for lunch as leftovers, I didn’t have the heart to try Pyro Pizza, but I heard lots of rave reviews and as evidenced by the long lines every time I went by after that, they did very well. My foodie friends couldn’t say enough good things about their pizza with caramelized torpedo onions with gorgonzola and parmigiano-reggiano cheeses and pistachios. They are normally located at SE 12th and Hawthorne, neighbors to Potato Champion and Whiffies. I’m kicking myself a little for getting out of line after these foodie friends had come to be raving about Soup Cycle, which I had skipped since they can actually deliver if I wished it. I ended up getting 2 tastings of Soup Cycle that evening anyway- when I went back to drop off my glassy stone for my favorite cart (that’s how they tallied votes for the People’s Choice Award), Soup Cycle had no line, while Pyro Pizza still was 20 people in the weeds. Well, the cauliflower apple gruyere soup was still delicious both times I had it, so I don’t regret that! And I’m sure that SE 12th and Hawthorne cart will still be visited by me: now I’ll just have 3 carts that I’m aiming for, not just two.

My vote at the Eat Mobile Food Cart Festival went to Nuevo Mexico for their stuffed sopapillas (fried sweet dough that is then stuffed) and their green chili chicken stew. Both were on fire with flavor! And, I appreciated their large signage and line of preppers in their area… so I guess I was also awarding them my appreciation of a good setup. The first food picture is a look at the green chili chicken stew on the left, and on the right is the ground beef and green chili sopapilla decked out with cheese and tomatoes and beans. My choice was the carne adovada, with pork and red chili: messy but worth it, and the sopapilla was the perfect sponge for all the chili and sauce from the carne. Thank you Nuevo Mexico for bringing sopapillas to Portland (at Mississippi and Skidmore).
Nuevo Mexico food cartNuevo Mexico stuffed sopapillas Nuevo Mexico stuffed sopapillas

I kept glancing to my right at the equally long line (Pyro Pizza, Taqueria Los Gorditos, and Nuevo Mexico were all right next to each other), which was Taqueria Los Gorditos, offering Mexican vegetarian and vegan.. I wanted to run off with the giant guacamole of Taqueria Los Gorditos: I was surprised they actually let everyone help themselves to the guacamole portion, so they must have had lots ready to keep filling that pestle up! I was curious bout the blue corn beverage but didn’t try- their lines were long mainly because you had to wait for each person to guacamole-themselves up. All three still boasted the same long lines of patient people a couple hours later- but were not out of food, unlike others I had skipped then/went back later but were out, like Bombay Chaat House, Mono Malo, and Sawasdee Thai.

The Carne adovada is when my hands started getting super messy, but the People’s Pig is what sealed it. A long line that wrapped around chairs and tables hinted at what was to come: a piggy looked on as people line up for The People’s Pig offering of cuban pulled pork taco as a taster. I put down the extra $6 to get the porcetta from the People Pig… which I then carefully wrapped, put into my purse, and into tupperware to enjoy the next day!
People's Pig food cartPeople's Pig food cartPeople's Pig food cart

I was getting pretty full at this point, but still had room for Flavourspot which was just next door to People’s Pig at the Eat Mobile. Flavourspot proclaims themselves the home of the dutch taco, aka this mix of savory and sweet with the waffle wrapping cheese and maple sausage. With 3 locations across the city and also scoring runner up for the People’s Choice Award, they are proof that waffle sandwiches are a winning combination of flavor
Flavourspot cheese and maple sausage Dutch Taco

I forgot to capture the photos of Whiffies, but their bbq beef with mozzarella was pretty good- and since Nuevo Mexico’s sopapillas are a bit harder for me to get to location-wise, Whiffies is a fine substitute of fried goodness sponging up flavor, just in fried pie instead. They won the People’s Choice Award for Eat Mobile 2010. Rather then selecting one of their sweet versions of pie (like the peanut butter with chocolate chips I tried), go for fruity frozen ice-pop like offerings of Oregon Ice Works (they are working with Whiffies but will be opening their own cart soon). Their raspberry was so chunky with raspberry I had to chew it, while the lemon was like a perfect summer tart lemonade. Although I appreciate the audacity and coolness of Fifty Licks‘ offerings of hand made ice cream in flavors that include Tahitian Vanilla, Stumptown Coffee, Maple Bacon (all three of these are winning combinations!) and Red Bull Cola, I can’t help but prefer the fruity ice more as a cool clean refresher that doesn’t have the cream of Fifty Licks. I don’t want to think about how many calories I’m having…

Potato Champion‘s poutine was as good as I was expecting: and considering I’ve had my eye on this cart ever since I moved here and still haven’t made it over, my expectations were pretty high. I’ll be visiting that cart pod this year, it’s my goal!
Potato Champion, poutine

Top honors for best tasting food as judged by the culinary panel this year at the Eat Mobile food cart festival went to Garden State, offering Sicilian street snacks. I’ve heard only good things about this cart, but their location in Sellwood is inconvenient for me to get to by public transit even as they are being raved about even on a segment of Good Morning America. They also have a new Mississipi location. Garden State’s taste offering of grilled alaskan cod with vinaigrette (along with lettuce and orange slices) on a slice of baguette was a pretty healthy offering and showcased their ability to put together a clean taste profile, even as a cart (though I wasn’t sure what was the Sicilian snack part of it)

I wrapped up the last bosnian cheese pita (sirnica) that Ziba’s Pita had before they were out, then tasting seconds at Soup Cycle and Sip (which I’ve sworn I will now have to patronize twice more this summer to make up for it), and also a taste of the grilled cheese turkey, Tillamook cheddar, and truffle oil at Savor Soup House (The Grilled Cheese Grill was supposed to be at Eat Mobile but had to drop out because of an illness: I guess I’ll still have to plan on visiting their school bus), and a few blocks away, a beer at Green Dragon. There were many other carts I didn’t try- some because I’ve been to them before, others because I know I can easily get to the cart myself on my own time- but it wonderful to see so many options at this festival. It would be great to see this continue to grow. The $7 per person for all the tastings is a steal, honestly, but even if they moved to a ticketing system like Taste of Chicago does (so you can decide for yourself how many tickets to spend at each cart to get a choice of different samplings or a full size portion: in some cases if everyone wanted to taste it made sense to put tickets together to get a full size everyone could enjoy then just individual bites), I’d have no problem coming back, no hesitation, and it was even for a good cause. And, that would also make it more fair for places like PBJ where no one just wanted one little taster.

And next time, consider our groups’ two browsing strategies. I came in with a must-try list of carts, often based on what I hadn’t had before and also based on how difficult it would be for me to get to, car-less and relying only on public transit and based on their hours of operation. The second strategy was to divide up and grab samples for friends so instead of waiting in all lines, you wait in half of them- generally with the men being sent to scout for the shorter lines to bring goodies back while the ladies chatted in the longer lines patiently nesting :X Being stuffed almost like its Foodcartthanksgiving FTW.

This coming weekend we have some Chicago friends and a birthday at Rogue/Green Dragon, so I am pretty excited to get some more friend and food time in before my work project takes me on the road for two weeks again.

More on the awards and a few more pictures of Eat Mobile 2010 can be found at The Examiner’s coverage, and much better photos by ExtraMSG on Flickr. Hey, I was eating.

 

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