Raven and Rose’s Beer with the Bird

Ever since I walked past the 1883 William Ladd Carriage House, I have been wondering what it would become. It was a beautiful house that is definitely beautiful enough for people and not just horses and carriages and the people who tend to them. But, when I moved here, it lay empty after its apparent move to construct an underground garage on the property for the condominium building across the street. Finally, the official news was released last year that the plans were to make it some sort of gastropub, and a few months ago the restaurant opened, named Raven & Rose.

William Ladd Carriage House William Ladd Carriage House

I had it on my list to try. I wanted to check out the Victorian inspired restaurant helmed by Park Kitchen alum David Padburg that is putting out rustic farm to table cuisine inspired from history- early American farmhouse and Irish and English traditional fare. Meanwhile, besides the bar area in the downtstairs restaurant area, there is also an upstairs bar area named the Rookery. Here, bar director David Shenaut is using the former vaulted hayloft space to showcase historical cocktails.

However, its opening during the holidays made it difficult to fit into my schedule. Sundays and Mondays which are more free, they are closed (too bad, because it is the perfect environment to watch that new show The Following. They just changed their hours though, so maybe…). Last month, when as part of my Portland Food Adventures trip to Tasty n Alder, John Gorham’s list of restaurants he recommended resulted in several gift certificates as an introduction, and Raven and Rose was one of those gift cards.

And then… I saw David is continuing his reputation of community builder (he helped cofound Portland Cocktail Week) in that the Rookery would be hosting several events to bring producers and imbibers together, including a bimonthly brewer’s social called “Beer with the Bird”. This inaugural event debuted this past Thursday February 28 with Charlie Devereux from Double Mountain Brewery and John Plutshack from Logsdon Organic Farmhouse Ales, along with cheese pairings available from Steve Jones of Cheese Bar. SOLD!

Since it was a Thursday evening I had limited time as I had an evening work conference call. So this first visit, I was only able to glance at the dining space as I made my way past the hostess desk and the booths with gas lamps up the stairs to the Rookery. I look forward to returning and seeing more- and I am wondering what it would take to sit at those kitchen seats by the wood-fired oven pictured here in the Eaters Coverage with photos. For a little context, the first photos in the slideshow are the main restaurant, and the last 3 from the Rookery. I know because I saw them myself:

Isn’t that bar amazing? There’s a cabinet just full of aged scotch over there. The next event they have is an event Raven & Rye with James C. Russell, master distiller at the Wild Turkey Distillery where he served more than 50 year, carrying on the tradition from his grandfather, father, and his son has also worked there more than 20 years now. Jimmy is so beloved at Wild Turkey, they named one of their finest products after him in 2000–the 10-year-old Russell’s Reserve. The Raven and Rye event is an opportunity to meet Jimmy and explore Russell’s Reserve rye cocktails. Sounds dangerous- and it’s on a Tuesday night- March 12 4-6pm. Will I see you there?

Now let’s focus on Beer with the Bird. I got there right at 5pm so my friend and I were able to snag a table in the library nook side that you see above to the right. This wound up giving us more space from the buzz of people by the bar area, where an hour later there was standing room only in the Rookery. You could buy any glass of  beer from the breweries you wanted, or opt for a flight from a brewery. Also optionally you could add the flight of cheese that Steve paired with that flight of beer. They thoughtfully provided lots of information about the beer and cheeses.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird with Logsdon, Double Mountain, and Steve's Cheese Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird with Logsdon Farmhouse Ales and Steve's Cheese Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird with Double Mountain and Steve's Cheese

I started out with the flight of beer and cheese from Logsdon Farmhouse Ales because I thought these would be most appealing to my palate, and I was right. I loved every single one. I admit the Peche ‘n Brett was my favorite, and I would have another of any of these Logsdon beers again.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird, Logsdon Farmhouse Ales beer flight

These were paired with Samith Bay Ladysmith and Ancient Heritage Hannah cheeses, with the Ladysmith going well with the Seizoen (who am I kidding, I could eat a whole tub of Ladysmith alone) as its lighter flavor lets you still taste the freshness of the cheese, and the Hannah I paired with the other two beers.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird with Logsdon Farmhouse Ales and Steve's Cheese selections of Samith Bay Ladysmith and Ancient Heritage Hannah cheeses

  • Logsdon Farmhouse Cerasus 8.5%ABV Oak-aged Flanders Red with tart organic Oregon cherries. We add 2 pounds of cherries per 1 gallon of unfinished beer. Crystal malts, oak tannins and fruit develop into a soft well rounded beer. The complex esters and yeast-derived flavors come from the bottle conditioning. 2012 Portland Cheers to Belgian Beers Peoples Choice award winner.
  • Pech ‘n Brett 10.0%ABV Created with organic peaches added to our Seizoen Bretta from a nearby farm. This beer displays crisp peach flavor with the added acidity produced by our special Brett yeast and light oak aging. 2012 World Beer Cup gold medal winner American Brett Style.
  • Seizoen 7.5% ABV Unfiltered Seizoen is naturally fermented and carbonated with pear juice and select yeast strains, producing complex, fruity and spicy flavors balanced with whole organic hops and soft malt character.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird, Logsdon Farmhouse ales pairing

I totally got greedy and decided to get the second flight of beer and cheese all by myself so I didn’t share with my friends at all. For Double Mountain the Red War, a strong Belgian Style Red Ale, surprised me as the favorite of the flight for its smoky yeasty tones over my usual leaning towards porters and stouts. The Carrie Ladd was a very light in terms of porter style flavor but I liked the roasty yeastiness. And, the Kolsch was wonderfully refreshing- only the Cask IRA I shared away to a tablemate because it was too hoppy for me, but remember I am not an IPA fan.

The Double Mountain beers were paired with Fern’s Edge Mt Zion and Vintage Cheese Co. Mountina. I liked the earthyness of the Mountina a lot with the Red War and saved those for my last bites.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird with Double Mountain and Steve's Cheese selections of Fern's Edge Mt Zion and Vintage Cheese Co. Mountina

  • Kolsch [German Style Ale] 5.2%ABV 40BU In Cologne, many a brewery produces a light-bodied ale with a delicate fruitiness and rounded maltiness, courtesy of a unique yeast strain. Our Kolsch is unfiltered and more generously hopped than its German cousin
  • Cask IRA [India Red Ale] 6.5%ABV 60BU This IRA marries an enticing red color and rich body with the hop flavors of an IPA. The darker malts we use provide a nice balance to the depth of hoppy flavor, while our unique ale yeast strain adds a delicious complexity. The softer carbonation of the cask conditioning process makes for a gentler and more delicate-tasting brew
  • Carrie Ladd [Steam Porter] 6.6%ABV 45BU Named one of the early steamships on the Columbia, this chocolatey/roasty steam porter uses a Czech lager yeast fermented at ale temperatures to provide a light cherry fruit overtone to the lovely Sterling hops.
  • Red War [Strong Belgian-Style Red Ale] 8.5%ABV 30BU A big yet approachable abbey-style beer. Lots of fruity complexity (banana, cherry, apricot) without a lot of the smoky phenols and higher alcohol notes of many Belgian ale strains. The fermentation finished dry, but with residual sweetness from a blend of light and dark crystal malts.

Raven and Rose: Beer with the Bird, Double Mountain pairing

Signature

Saraveza and Block 15 Winter Dinner

Sunday, Feb 24th at 6pm Saraveza and Block 15 hosted a special Pre-Fixe Winter Vintage Draught Dinner at Saraveza’s Bad Habit Room, highlighting pairings of Block 15 beers with food courses, and including verticals of the beers. We started out with a glass of Golden Canary 2011 and getting to know the other guests at the table (if you weren’t in one of the 5 2-tops along the wall where presumably the 2 people already knew each other) that you would be spending your evening enjoying food and drink. The Bad Habit Room has been remodeled since I saw it last, and now has a beautiful curved bar that takes up a corner space, and lovely chandeliers provide sparkling lighting ambiance that can class up any event.

The Golden Canary is a barrel matured golden wild ale blend, and was Block 15’s first journey into their wild yeast program. Since they were aging these wild cultures in the same cellar with their normal beers, others expressed doubt and concern that there would be cross-contamination and it would all explode. They called Block 15 a canary in a coal mine… and thus came the inspiration for the name for this beer.

This is one of my favorite things about the entire night- Nick Arzner (head brewer and co founder of Block 15) telling us the story for each beer like they are each his children. Since he and his wife are expecting their first child (congratulations!), I wonder if he will continue to be the one at Portland events telling these stories or if other brewers will take up that role.

Saraveza and Block 15 Prixe Fixe Winter Dinner menu with Golden Canary from Block 15 Saraveza and Block 15 Prix Fixe Winter Dinner at Bad Habit Room

First Course:
Crab Stuffed Profiteroles on a bed of frisee and Pineapple Aioli
Paired with 2011/2012 Wonka’s Wit, Belgian style white ale spiced with orange peel and coriander. Matured in French Oak Pinot Noir barrels for nine months with wild yeast. 5% ABV

The 2011 offered more pleasure for me on its own so I could enjoy its more yeasty flavor, while the citrus was more apparent in the 2012 so complimented the dish to bring out the hint of pineapple while cleaning up the creaminess.

Beer always tastes different from year to year- not only because of the ingredients (be it directly such as hops and wild crazy who knows what it is doing yeast, or environment such as the barrels), but because Block 15 uses a Solera process. I covered this previously when at the Breakside Brewery dinner, but this means there is always a small portion of the product that is left in the barrel, and then the new product is added, so history lives on and contributes to the next generation.

It is one of the constant tensions I have with Block 15 and Firestone Walker and Russian River and Mikkeller… I want to drink their barrel aged, high alcohol beer and enjoy it, but I also know that if I give their barrel aged beers a little time, it will change the characteristics and I can see how it grows up (but not too much where it mellows out to lose flavor). And yes, Block 15 are one of the 5 breweries (“of the Wood” from Hair of the Dog being the other local brewer) that we like to buy multiple of and have some in the cellar.
Block 15 Vintage Draught Dinner and Pairing Saraveza Crab Stuffed Profiteroles on a bed of frisee and Pineapple Aioli

Second Course:
Beef Tartar with Shallot Dijon & Oregon Tart Cherries
Paired with 2010/2011 Demon’s Farm, Ruby Black Farmhouse Aged in Pinot Noir Oak and Bourbon Oak with Brettanomyces and Oregon Tart Cherries 8.75% ABV

The 2010 had a darker dryer feel which was interesting to counterpoint the beef tartar if the spoonful also included one of the cherries. Meanwhile, the 2011 seemed to have a rounder sweetness to it.

Nick explained that in the 2010 he had used an Oregon oak barrel but thought it was adding too much tannin to the flavor so removed it in the 2011 production. He also told the story about how this beer was born from the dart toss at Cheers to Belgian Beer… and he suddenly found himself having to contend with making a dark strong beer with a Belgian Saison yeast strain… and, it’s was all Brewer’s Iron Chef from there to here!
Block 15 Vintage Draught Dinner and Pairing Beef Tartar with Shallot Dijon Oregon Tart Cherries

Third Course:
Seared Foie Gras on Brioche w/Coffee Dusted Roasted Figs, Chocolate Almond Sauce
Paired with 2011/2012 Super Nebula, Bourbon Barrel Matured Imperial Stout 11% ABV

Not surprisingly my favorite dish and beer and pairing, because I already love the dark chocolate coffee chewy flavors of Super Nebula, and add in the buttery softness of that seared foie gras and I was in heaven. I believe I was cutting the slivers of foie gras as thing as possible so I can savor each bit individually and close/roll my eyes.

As for Super Nebula, it is my favorite. At Hop & Vine’s first bottle release part with Block 15, I went alone because I really wanted some bottles of Pappy’s Dark, which I had a major crush on from Bailey’s Cellarfest. I had no idea about Super Nebula until I got into the bar and saw that was available to taste. Yeah, I also remember that was the first time I met Nick and he seemed sort of shy and not sure what to say as he was meeting those in line to buy the bottles of Pappy’s Dark.

Clearly in the past couple years he has reach a super high comfort level. Last year he was very easy going and beer geek proud giving us the brewery tour when I decided (I remember booking my ticket at Bailey’s as soon as I saw it on my phone, got F’s permission, and then bought it immediately as I knew they would- and they did- sell out) on the Brewvana + New School: Corvallis VIP Tour with Block 15 to get bottles last year. This time, throughout the entire night he had to keep reminding himself to impose a 2 minute limit, but the storytelling just is so hard to hold back…

Block 15 Saraveza Dinner Pairing Seared Foie Gras on Brioche Coffee Dusted Roasted Figs, Chocolate Almond Sauce

Next, we had a “break and discussion” where everyone enjoyed a cool palate cleanser of Block 15’s Wandelpad Belgian Pale Ale 6.4% ABV. This was one I had not had before, and it was endearing as he told the story of travelling to Belgium and staying at the B&B while visiting St. Bernardus (and yeah, if I ever go I will definitely stay at their B&B right on the estate!- I believe it is Brouwershuis B&B Although wtf you mention the beer fridge didn’t mention they also have fresh baked bread and their own cheese…?!) and sampling a few too many so needing to take a walk along the path to sober up with his wife- and thus the story behind the name of this beer.

Fourth Course:
Bourbon Pork Belly and Kale Stew with Winter Vegetables
Paired with 2010/2011 Pappy’s Dark, Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon Barrel Matured Strong Ale 10% ABV

This stew was amazing in terms of complexity of flavors and textures. I wanted to have the brioche I had not eaten from the third course back to sop every dop up. It was a little difficult for me to drink the Pappy’s Dark with this though as this stew really comforted but also heated me up in terms of body temperature.

Block 15 Saraveza Pairing Dinner Bourbon Pork Belly Stew with Winter Vegetables

Fifth Course :
SugarPimp’s Dessert of Figgy Pudding (made with Block 15 Figgy Pudding)
Paired with 2011/2012 Figgy Pudding Brandy Barrel Matured Holiday Ale conditioned with Mission Figs, Ceylon Cinnamon & Nutmeg 11% ABV

Figgy Pudding is a English malt London yeasted beer inspired by the English cake of the Christmas song… and I was thrilled to after all those times I’ve heard those lyrics for my first experience with the actual figgy pudding cake. At this point I was so seriously full I tried to take bites of the Figgy Pudding x3 but was struggling in this final, third hour. The Figgy Pudding dessert was a date and fig based cake that was moist and melt in your mouth that was then served with toffee sauce and brittle and mascarpone-stuffed dried figs. I was so sad that I didn’t have more room for this big piece of dessert, but what a sweet ending to a fantastic night.
Block 15 Saraveza Dinner Pairing Figgy Pudding

Signature

Breakside Brewer’s Dinner at Wildwood

There was a Wildwood restaurant event of a Brewer’s dinner with Breakside Brewery Friday, 6.29 in Wildwood’s back (and newly renovated event space) Wood Room. Wildwood’s Paul Kasten & Breakside Brewery’s Ben Edmunds recently collaborated to brew “Old Woody”, another one of Breakside’s series in which Brewer Ben works with a restaurant chef to make an interesting beer. They then created a special pairing dinner to pair various Breakside Brewery beer with Chef Paul’s gastronomic creations, including of course drinking “Old Woody”. All this was at the reservation price of $65 which was inclusive of food, beer and gratuity… yes that’s right, 6 courses, all paired with beer, tip included!

The menu included

  1. strawberries and asparagus basil, spring onion, champagne vinaigrette, goat cheese, saba paired with solera-style lambic. Brewer Ben explained meant that this beer was made using the solera process in which 3 beers were used in succession in the barrel with a little purposely left as the new beer was added, so this beer is the culmination of the flavors from all three (Sour Double Wit, Soursop Wheat, and Sourdough Ale plus Brettanomyces lambicus to make it a lambicdespite all the”sour” in the beer names, it only has a slight sourness to it). Pairing wise, he also noted that the same sort of acid found in this beer was echoed in the goat cheese of this salad.
  2. pastrami pork belly éclair spring onion, pickled chile cream cheese icing paired with newport summer ale although for the vegetarian, the pairing was mixed summer greens with cucumber, snap peas, and feta. Of all the items in the menu, this was one I highly anticipated, and I loved the taste of the pork belly eclair with the chili cream cheese (although I thought the amount of icing was a bit overwhelming for the beer, though it was tasty), a melding of the tang of the cream cheese with the softness of the eclair and the meaty with bit of fat of the meat inside. At the same time, I thought the nice fresh taste of the radishes and greens was quite complimentary with the ale too, perhaps even a better pairing… though I would not give up that pork belly eclair.
  3. lamb carpaccio guajillo oil, grilled scallions, crispy chickpeas, cumin yogurt paired with session brown which for the vegetarian was a grilled asparagus and farro salad with scallions and lemon that used a slight grilled smoke taste from the asparagus to go with the malt forwardness of this beer- in this case both pairings of food dishes was excellent but the lamb was better, particularly with those awesome light as air crispy chickpeas and guajillo oil
  4. crispy chicken confit wild mushroom and fava bean panzanella paired with old woody while the vegetarian had panzanella with wild mushroom and fava beans. Both these dishes were fabulously full of crispness and complex savory flavor to hold up with this collaboration beer that has a touch of sweetness from molasses. Panzanella, a stale bread dish, never sounded that interesting to me but now I know that crunch from the bread balanced with flavors of oil and vinegar and mushrooms sounds simple but delivers more than what you would think from the sum of those parts

  5. pan seared rib eye filet fava purée, grilled porcini, pale ale glace paired with old bourbon woody while the vegetarian pairing was russet potato gnocchi with morel mushrooms, fava beans, and creme fraiche. I’m certain this is the beer that started really working out my liver (just looked it up as it’s currently at Breakside Brewery on their board listed at 11%) but the complexity of flavor that every sip of liquid offered is well worth it, this is one fine beer. Ben also mentioned this beer’s other alias, Old Whiskey Dick.
  6. colston-basset stilton honey, candied walnuts, brooks cherries paired with bourbon barrel aged 1st anniversary wheatwine This was the only beer I didn’t love (though I still like it) because I thought it had too much alcohol upfront (it does clockin at 12.7%) and I would have liked to have it sit a little longer to mellow out, but F thought the beer was perfect as it was/is.

All the food and beer pairings were really wonderful through all six courses without anything being a disappointment and in fact, even impressing us more than we expected. Overall it was an amazing experience as everyone around us was a beer and food lover, but we got to enjoy this in a relaxed but refined atmosphere.

Wildwood also has a great bar with seasonal summer concoctions I enjoyed while waiting between the end of work and beginning of this brewer’s dinner. One of their summer drinks is the The Naughty Kitty with pimm’s, india lemongrass, lime and strawberry puree, a sweet but not too sweet drink that definitely took me away from my worries quickly and smoothly. I also appreciated a little gift from the kitchen of pate with a little dop of mustard and bit of cornichon all vehicled into the mouth by a little toast… as if I wasn’t already grateful enough that the Chef was willing to put together a vegetarian version of the six courses at my request. Enboldened by this bite, I decided I still had enough time to try one more cocktail that caught my eye- Oh Snap! Tanqueray, cointreau, mint tincture, lemon, and sugar snap peas puree, a fresh cocktail. As always, I have never been disappointed by Wildwood in presenting me with local and seasonal flavors that really embody the Northwest region.

Signature