My Review of Lunch At The Shop

I’ve been taking a little break from my online, food-related book club since this year I’ve joined two other book groups (I also read from Blogging for Books, and a women’s book club at work). But I’m back to the Kitchen Reader club this month with my book club review of Lunch at the Shop: The Art and Practice of the Midday Meal by Peter Miller (chosen by Emily of Highly Social Media).
Lunch at the Shop: The Art and Practice of the Midday Meal by Peter Miller

My high level review of Lunch At the Shop is that it really promotes an intentional lunch. Peter’s definition of this means

  • Communal lunch with others (in this case with the employees of the bookshop he owns) where everyone shares stories
  • Lunch is fresh which means preparing all or part of it at your workplace. Part of the reason for this is also to shift from your normal work tasks to a craft operation and shift into a different mindframe from your normal workday actions and decisions.

The purpose of this is to take back part of your workday to make it personal and a pleasure. He promises it will make the food better, your relationships better, and it does make a difference in improving your day by reviving you at the mid day point.

One of the fun things about reading this book for me is that I’ve been to Seattle several times, and particularly some of the shops that Peter mentions so it was very easy to picture exactly the ingredients he mentions. His location near Pike Place Market is probably too good to be true for most people, and it will likely take slightly more work to gather some of the items purchased from stores since it will entail visiting specialty stores which are more spread out for a normal person rather than within a few blocks from work or from various employee’s home or commute.

There are plenty among his more than 50 recipes that are simple, yet offer wonderful taste in the combination.

Recipe for Lentils folded into basil, spinach, and basil from Lunch at the Shop, by Peter Miller Photo by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton
Recipe for Lentils folded into basil, spinach, and basil from Lunch at the Shop, by Peter Miller Photo by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton

Part of this I think is because of his crucial notion of layering. He defines this as

It is a touch, a finish, and it makes all the difference in the world in any cooking. For the purpose of lunch, it is quite specific: a second or third touch to what you are presenting, the signal that someone, moments before, chose and arranged and set the plate. It is personal and specific… The layering may be no more than a handful of parsley or chives, a grind of black pepper, a little Parmesan – all quite simply a sign of life.

He explains that layering means a Horizontal Touch to add details next to what you are serving, or a Vertical Touch to build upon the structure of the dish with elements. Examples he uses are just adding a slice of orange and a little goat cheese on the side of lentil soup, or fresh Parmesan, parsley, and cracked pepper on a reheated pasta.

It was beautiful and dreamy to me as he described Parmesan falling like snow on soup or bread (or a dusting of Parmesan out to an edge of a salad… he clearly really loves Parmesan), or a spoonful of beans alongside a sandwich that you then wipe the oil left behind with the last bite of bread, or how “chives love the slow-talking goat cheese or the white face of a potato”.

Phases like those pepper throughout the book, as well as call out boxes where he just tells a personal story about an ingredient. This made the book very likeable reading for me. It really was clear how much he loves food and ingredients, and how a communal lunch, even in talking about what’s in the lunch, can invoke tales that bring people together.

Some of the recipes can totally be assembled at your work desk, while others are started at home and then a few select items are finished at the office. He often uses bread, beans, lentils, or pasta as a solid base. It was particularly the use of lentils that I earmarked several recipes. I love lentils but as he notes, it is not often remembered to be used even though is is, as he calls them, ” a noble assistant to many foods and a trusty backpack to many vegetables.” Fortunately, he eats them at least once a week so had several suggestions of lentil combinations.

Lil' Wares Poware Bowl with lentils, cilantro mint cashew sauce, black tea peach chutney, beets and paneer Heathman Small Hot Plate of Carlton Farms Pork Cheek with squash puree and chive beluga lentils
When was the last time you had lentils? Some memorable lentil dishes of my past include this Bowl with lentils, cilantro mint cashew sauce, black tea peach chutney, beets and paneer and also this dish of Pork Cheek with squash puree and chive beluga lentils

Other great tips I got included

  • taking leftover pasta from dinner to work the next day and folding in a creamy soup or cup of hot chili with a little cheese, parsley, and lemon to rejuvenate it
  • adding leftover rice into soup or salad
  • the idea of instead of making sandwiches with sliced breads from a buffet of meats, using smaller rolls so you can make each one different – one with chutney, one with mustard and ketchup, one with horseradish and mayo so you can experiment
  • he even has a way to really upgrade sushi in those containers with plastic grass with some lettuce and easy homemade dressing

I really enjoyed the book. Like most books I read for Kitchen Reader, I borrowed it from the library to read it and started taking photos of certain recipes I liked. Then I gave up and realized I was taking too many photos and should just buy the book! I found the book very inspirational to move away from restaurant leftovers or cafeteria food. I look forward to trying to make my lunch at work – though I’m not sure I will go all the way towards communal lunches yet.

If you are interested in the online book club the Kitchen Reader, the gist of our casual club is there is a new book selected for every month, each book is related to food, and members write a review on their blog during the last week of that month. For me, it is always interesting to read the round-up of reviews at the beginning of the month and see what other members have thought, and even when I haven’t made the round-up, it adds more food books to my list to read.

I did read the previous two books from the previous two months – Delicious by Ruth Reichl and Relish by Lucy Knisley but haven’t had time to create posts on those yet. I enjoyed both those books in a mixed way, so hope to get into details of that in the future.

For October the book club selected reading is Yes, Chef: A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson and Veronica Chambers (chosen by Amanda of Omar Niode Foundation).

What do you think about the premise of the book about more intentional lunch, and do you think you could practice it?

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Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese – Portland Release Party

I was super thrilled when Tiffany from Thyme of Taste shared that there was a special event for Melt: The Art of Macaroni & Cheese occurring at Steve Jones’ Cheese Bar. First of all, I love cheese, and I will take any excuse/rationalization necessary to go to cheese.

Book cover for Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese cookbook

I also love Steve Jones, as I have enjoyed all the cheese education he has been imparting on me since the best cheese extravaganza I have ever experienced, his Cheese Bar Spectacular with Ten 01 back in 2010 with its 101 cheeses. That was a one time event, my first time meeting Steve, and was an important jumpstart of my cheese knowledge as it really upped my familiarity with local cheeses. Thankfully, there are still Steve’s annual pairing of beers and cheese (recaps of Portland Beer & Cheese Fest 2012 and Portland Beer & Cheese Fest 2013 as examples, and has done events with Lardo and Raven & Rose, among others). He also helps curate cheese plates for so many of the amazing restaurants in Portland.

Steve Jones of Cheese Bar offering cheeses and charcuterie at Bailey's Taproom- 2007-2012 5th Anniversary Gloriousness

Cheese plates are a great way to try lots of cheeses affordably, rather than buying them by weight $7-10 at a time – instead, you have the opportunity to taste several cheeses for the same price. You can never go wrong with a cheese plate curated with Steve’s Cheese- such as this one below of 11/17/2013, a Cheese Board of Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow – Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep – Italy), and the Crottin (Goat – France). This was my first crottin! I’m a big fan of Borenkaas as they go wonderfully with beer with its nuttiness- this is true of most Dutch cheeses I think. The sheep cheese went best with the chutney you see on the board, and the Crottin’s grassiness was balanced out by the glass of red wine I was having.

11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow - Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France) 11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Remeker Pure Borenkaas (Raw Cow - Holland), Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France) 11/17/2013 Steve's Cheese Bar Cheese Board: Focusing in on the Gran Cacio Etrusco (Sheep - Italy), and the Crottin (Goat - France)

If you want to appreciate cheese more, the key thing I would suggest you do is keep notes of what cheeses you had- particularly ones that you really love, or really hate. This will help you understand your tastes. An easy way to do this is to just have one document on your phone/cloud that you can use to make your notations. I often take photos of the cheese and the label if I’m dining out so that I don’t have to spend a lot of time typing into my phone instead of socializing. BTW this same trick works with wine!

The Cheese Bar is Steve’s place, a great cheese shop where you can procure marvelous exquisite cheeses from around the world, plus get access to the genius award winning knowledge of cheesemonger Steve or whoever is behind the counter to help select cheeses (and often sample as well to help make decisions!). But you don’t have to just subsist on the samples of cheese alone. Cheese Bar is also a beer/wine bar and cafe, offering multiple types of cheese plates (a cheese plate of the day, soft ripened cheese plate, blue cheese plate, etc) as well as other small plates of food varying from pimento spread to grilled cheese or fondue in order for you to try lots of kinds of cheeses.

Even more enthralling for this last visit for me however was the fact that Stephanie Stiavetti of the Culinary Life blog was hosting the Portland launch party for the book Melt: The Art of Macaroni & Cheese (co authored with Garrett McCord of food blog, Vanilla Garlic) at Cheese Bar. At the book launch party, she was offering two examples of the mac dishes from the cookbook! Amazon link: http://bit.ly/meltmacaroni. And this was a free public event!

PS. Stephanie has cut her hair and is even more adorable than the photo below. Check out her Facebook or Google+ for more updates and photos from the tour.
Stephanie Stiavetti of the Culinary Life blog, one of the authors of Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Garrett McCord of food blog, Vanilla Garlic, one of the authors of Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese

I was so there!

The first sample was a cold pasta salad of Drunken Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini. I was surprised how fresh and salady with herbaciousness this take on mac and cheese was, with only the cubes of Drunken Goat cheese and a light lemony oil dressing.
Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese recipe, a cold pasta salad of Drunken Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini

The second sample she offered was the Lincolnshire Poacher with Cotija, Chorizo and Penne. Of course she used real chorizo meat, but based on the flavor profile I think Soyrizo would work just as well- they key is the grassy contribution of the Lincolnshire Poacher cheese with the salty crumble of the Cotija.
Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese recipe, Lincolnshire Poacher with Cotija, Chorizo and Penne

Although that sounds so specific to pick out Lincolnshire Poacher or the Drunken Goat as the cheese to utilize, the book does suggest several other alternate cheeses that can be substituted in, and she’s great at pointing out the specific flavors of the cheese she was looking for, so you can also chat with your local cheesemonger.

The key differentiator here for me is that Stephanie and Garrett really focused on highlighting the unique exquisite flavors of high quality artisan cheeses, and they prepare them in a large variety of kinds of dishes to really expand the what you can do with these cheeses besides enjoying them on a cheese plate. Though, nothing wrong with a cheese plate of course, brimming with multiple cheeses.  🙂

The recipes really run the gamut, from salad to stovetop baked and casserole to dessert, and also bring in influences of flavor profiles internationally, such as Greek, Mexican, Indian, and even Asian! That’s what really drew me to the book- even though the book title starts out with “Melt”, it’ s not always about throwing in cheese and cream over pasta into the oven. The recipes are a lot more diverse than that so that you could possibly be making more than one of these dishes in a week without feeling like it’s a repeat, since the recipes can be so unique in taste.

Some examples that I am so so excited to make:

  • Pumpkin stuffed with sausage and fontina recipe,
  • Raclette with Farfalle, Cornichons, and Sauteed Onions
  • Turkey and Robusto Mac and Cheeselet (perfect after Thanksgiving as a way to use up some leftover turkey!!)
  • Chicken Breast Stuffed with Leonora Goat Cheese, Star Pasta, and Gingersnap

Pumpkin stuffed with sausage and fontina recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Raclette with Farfalle, Cornichons, and Sauteed Onions recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese
Turkey and Robusto Mac and Cheeselet (perfect after Thanksgiving as a way to use up some leftover turkey!!) recipe from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese Chicken Breast Stuffed with Leonora Goat Cheese, Star Pasta, and Gingersnap from Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese
Photo Credit: Matt Armendariz, courtesy of Little, Brown and Company

Each recipe also suggest wine pairings, as well as other snacky pairings with the cheese (such as certain fruit) in case you are assembling a cheese plate or perhaps brainstorming another recipe. The book, which has about 75 recipes, is chock full of gorgeous, enticing photos that make you want to cook everything in the book. After only flipping through a few chapters I was already ready to throw out the Pumpkin Mac and Cheese recipe I had earmarked for Thanksgiving this year in order to try some of the recipes above.

Thankfully, wiser minds prevailed, and instead my friend and I discussed how we could just ADD another recipe for another day during our Thanksgiving vacation instead.

Also, maybe I bought 4 cheeses from Cheese Bar for the cheese plate on Thanksgiving Day. Until Thanksgiving early dinner is ready, a bottle of wine and a cheese tray and vegetable tray are the snacks to keep us fueled during our Thanksgiving meal is ready. I said I was going to buy 3, but I bought 4. This seems to always happen. I mean, it only added up to 1.25 pounds of cheese. For four people. And that’s only half the cheese plate.

I’ll report back on what I make from the Melt: the Art of Macaroni & Cheese cookbook, but meanwhile, here is a bit more on the book, including their cookbook trailer! I am SO RECOMMENDING THIS BOOK. And this is not a sponsored post- I just really love it!

Melt: the Art of Macaroni and Cheese – The Official Trailer from Stephanie/SJS on Vimeo.

MELT: THE ART OF MACARONI AND CHEESE is a cookbook that reinvents the American classic, macaroni and cheese, with gourmet ingredients, handcrafted artisan cheeses, and unique flavor combinations. It is the first book to marry the American standard, macaroni and cheese, with handcrafted artisan cheeses and a wide array of pastas, producing dishes that are both classic and chic.

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Counting Down to Feast Portland: Cookbook Social

This post is part of my series “Counting Down to Feast Portland” where I talk about events I plan to attend as part of this 4 day food and drink festival September 19-22, 2013. Disclosure: I was granted a Bloggers Pass for Feast Portland 2013, and asked to help promote Feast but they did not require that I write this post and I am not otherwise being compensated.

Update – After attending the event, you can see my recap here of Feast Day 2

The Feast Cookbook Social is a free event with a suggested donation of $5 at the door. This is an event that takes place as part of Feast Portland on Friday, Sept 20th 2:00pm – 4:00pm at the Heathman Hotel, Broadway and Symphony Rooms.

Another Feast Free Event! Well, practically free. Consider attending the Cookbook Social to squee with me (my Bloggers Pass doesn’t get me anything special here, so I’ll be right in line with you trying not to be an awkward foodie dork). Get autographs on cookbooks and chat with some amazingly knowledgeable big names and niche experts of various facets of food, as well as support the Feast worthwhile charity partners focused on fighting hunger: Share Our Strength and Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon. There will also be light food and drink from Heathman Executive Chef Michael Stanton at the social in case you are feeling faint from being starstruck or need nourishment as you soak up the knowledge.

To give you a little bit of context, I pulled out a review quote for each of the authors/books and added them to the Lineup list I got from the Feast website. Hopefully, by sharing my homework with you, it will encourage you to check them out by giving you an introductory blurb about what their book covers, and the passion and expertise they are sharing with their book!

Description from the Feast website: Join your favorite cookbook authors, local and national, for this walk-around cookbook signing at the Heathman Hotel. Twenty writers will be waiting to chat with you at tables around the room, while Heathman Executive Chef Michael Stanton will provide light food and drink to refresh the conversation. Cookbook subjects range from sauces to the roots they’d dress, crackers to the school lunches they’d go in, and lox to the salt blocks it’s cured on (to name just a few). All cookbooks will be available for purchase to round out your collection! A suggested donation of $5 at the door, to be donated to Feast partner charities: Share Our Strength and Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon.

The Lineup

  • Mark Bitterman, Salt Block Cooking:: 70 Recipes for Grilling, Chilling, Searing, and Serving on Himalayan Salt Blocks and Salted: A Manifesto on the World’s Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes
    • On Salted, the James Beard Award-winning book: “As the FDA considers lower salt standards for Americans, salt has never been a hotter chef’s ingredient. This is part cookbook (Roasted Peaches in Bourbon Syrup with Smoked Salt), part salt tract (positing “Five Rules of Strategic Salting),” part reference tome.” — Cooking Light, Favorite Cookbooks, 2010l
    • Check out Mark and salt here, in this video which shows only some of the 90 artisan salts The Meadow carries and you can see how he delights in teaching  how various salts impart a unique addition and open up food in a new and different way – they can be a game changer in a dish’s taste profile.
  • Karen Brooks, The Mighty Gastropolis: Portland: A Journey Through the Center of America’s Food Revolution
    • “Street food capital of the world, home of ethical eaters, dreamers in a strange food landscape, Portland is the crucible of new American cooking. If you’re curious about why we’re eating the way we do – and how we’ll be eating tomorrow – you need to read this book. Passionate, powerful and filled with recipes that make you very, very hungry, The Mighty Gastropolis is a celebration of America’s most interesting food city.” – Ruth Reichl
    • I also embedded a video from her TED talk in my previous post on the Feast Speaker Series
  • Lucy Burningham and Ellee Thalheimer, Hop in the Saddle: A Guide to Portland’s Craft Beer Scene, by Bike
    • “In a town bursting with bikes and beer, no one knows more about both scenes than writer Lucy Burningham. With her vast knowledge and experience surrounding the artisan bike culture and booming beer scene, Lucy has sipped, supped, and cycled her way around Portland for years, noting her favorite meals, beers, and bike paths along the way. Ride with Lucy and Ellee as they navigate you through the city’s best of the best in this guide to Portland’s food, drink, and cycle culture.” — Megan Flynn, editor/publisher, Beer West magazine
  • Kyra Bussanich, Sweet Cravings: 50 Seductive Desserts for a Gluten-Free Lifestyle
    • The first gluten-free baker to win the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars (and she’s won twice!) shares her indulgent recipes for cakes, muffins, scones, cookies, brownies, cobblers, buckles, tarts, and more. “When Kyra won her episode of Cupcake Wars, she amazed me with her baking technique and flawless execution. I am now convinced that prepared the right way, gluten-free baking can produce a most delectable result, and Kyra’s book is a perfect introduction.” — Florian Bellanger, founder, Mad Mac NYC, and judge, Food Network’s Cupcake Wars
    • Check out Kyra making one of her gluten free cupcakes in this video! Note that although the video shows the name Crave Bakery,  she renamed it to Kyra’s Bake Shop earlier this year.
  • Sasha Davies, The Cheesemaker’s Apprentice: An Insider’s Guide to the Art and Craft of Homemade Artisan Cheese, Taught by the Masters
    • from the book description: Pick up the fundamentals of cheese making, and then gain behind-the-scenes insight from 19 interviews with industry experts. All the basics you need to get started, 16 illustrated, step-by-step recipes for fresh cheese, washed curd, grana-style, blue cheese, and more—that will build your skills. Tricks of the trade from experts on mozzarella, Cheddar, Comté, Parmigiano Reggiano, Stilton, and more. Also tips on selecting, handling, storing, tasting, and pairing cheese
  • Ken Forkish, Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza
    • “Owner of Ken’s Artisan Pizza and Ken’s Artisan Bakery in Portland, Ore., Forkish begins by telling of the trials and tribulations of opening up shop (people didn’t want to pay $2.50 for a cup of herbal tea). Divided into four sections (“The Principles of Artisan Bread,” “Basic Bread Recipes,” “Levain Bread Recipes,” and “Pizza Recipes”), with recipes broken down by breads made with store-bought yeast, breads made with long-fermented simple doughs, and doughs made with pre-ferments, the book presents recipes accessible to novices, while providing a different approach for making dough to experienced bakers. Plenty of step-by-step photographs, along with a chapter outlining “Great Details for Bread and Pizza,” make this slim work a rival to any bread-baking tome. A variety of pizza recipes, including sweet potato and pear pizza and golden beets and duck breast “prosciutto” pizza, (along with an Oregon hazelnut butter cookie recipe), end the title and inspire readers to put on the apron and get out the flour.” — Publishers Weekly
    • Check out Ken providing an introduction to this book in this video
  • John Holl, The American Craft Beer Cookbook: 155 Recipes from Your Favorite Brewpubs and Breweries
    • “Not every recipe in the book is made with beer, but they all taste great when paired with beer — and isn’t that the important part? The American Craft Beer Cookbook: 155 Recipes from Your Favorite Brewpubs and Breweries offers up instructions on how to cook everything from appetizers to desserts, including some stuff you’d expect — like pub-friendly foods and barbecue — to some you wouldn’t — like cupcakes and ice cream floats. But hey, it’s all beer-friendly, so it’s all good.” – uncrate.com
  • Martha Holmberg, Modern Sauces: More than 150 Recipes for Every Cook, Every Day
    • “Modern Sauces is my favorite book this year. It is destined to be a classic reference for the rest of my cooking life, on one of the most valuable but least understood facets of cooking: sauces. Martha Holmberg brings great intelligence and lucid writing and instructions to the important craft of sauces. She is both respectful of and illuminating about classic sauces, innovative in her thinking about contemporary sauces, and practical in terms of everyday cooking. This is a great book.” – Michael Ruhlman
    • Martha in this video prepares  pork tenderloin with orange-rosemary balsamic butter sauce
  • Makini Howell, Plum: Gratifying Vegan Dishes from Seattle’s Plum Bistro
    • “The vegan chef makes it look easy, with chapters on replacements for conventional staples (egg foam, anyone?), a helpful dissection of meat substitutes, and even a few mostly raw dishes for those in transition. Highlights: tostadas with spicy strawberry avocado relish, and balsamic tofu with white bean sauce and agave pumpkins. Most recipes are soy and/or gluten free and definitely aren’t all broccoli and turnips; expect recipes for sinful—yet morally sound—treats like tiramisu pancakes and tempeh vermouth.” — Seattle Metropolitan
    • Check out an overview of Plum Bistro with Makini in this video:
  • Ellen Jackson, The Chefs Collaborative Cookbook and The Grand Central Baking Book
    • With over 115 original recipes from over 115 of America’s best chefs, Ellen worked with the 115 of America’s Best chefs offering 115 recipes in The Chefs Collaborative Cookbook celebrates that revolution and translates the tenets of sustainable food production into actual recipes that most any home cook can prepare. Meanwhile, she worked with Piper Davis to author the Grand Central Baking Book which offers 85 recipes from the great Grand Central Bakery but scaled for the home baker.
  • Leslie Mackie, More from Macrina: New Favorites from Seattle’s Popular Neighborhood Bakery
    • “More than a follow-up to the original Macrina cookbook, this inspiring hardcover features recipes for the artisan loaves, rich brioches, and enticing pastries that have been added to the bakery shelves in the years since the first cookbook was published, as well as profiles of the people, providers, and philosophies that make Macrina so beloved in Seattle. There are also savories like breakfast hash and BLTs.” – The Seattle Times
  • Ivy Manning, Crackers & Dips: More than 50 Handmade Snacks
    • “Happy Hour – brunch, snacks and picnics – will never be the same. Ivy Manning has given us a new reason to head to the kitchen and a new treat to love: homemade crackers and great dips. Move over chips, there’s a new kid on the block!” — Dorie Greenspan, author of Around My French Table
    • Here’s a video clip of Ivy demonstrating making homemade crackers and spread
  • Domenica Marchetti, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy
    • “The Glorious Vegetables of Italy–glorious indeed! Domenica Marchetti reveals the last, great secret of the Italian kitchen: the abundance and staggering variety of vegetable dishes that Italians enjoy on a daily basis. What’s secret? The recipes are not from limited restaurant menus, but from la cucina, the home kitchen. Tha”s where the chickpea, eggplant, fennel and radicchio reign. Domenica, at home in the tradition, reveals all: lore, history, tips, and, best of all, a thousand thrilling tastes from the garden that is Italy.” – Frances Mayes, author of seven books on Italy, including Under the Tuscan Sun”
  • Diane Morgan, Roots: The Definitive Compendium with More than 225 Recipes
    • ” . . . that is what a cookbook should be: a guidebook, a resource.. The kind of thing you can go to again and again and again. Not because you loved one recipe, but because no matter how many times you read it, you’ll always learn something new. That is what I discovered in Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes . . . it hit all of my cookbook expectations. It’s a resource (and a good one at that), the photos are beautiful but the recipes aren’t over dominated by them, the story is personal, and in reading it, you get a lesson in food. For example, I had no idea that carrots are believed to have originated in Afghanistan.” – Anna Brones, Huffington Post
    • Check out Diane working in this video with celery root
  • Gabe Rucker, Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird (book would have been just released a few days earlier/Sept 17!)
    • “The stories are engaging, the recipes are complicated enough to be fun but not so tricky as to be unattainable, and the photography is well done but not fussy. It is the only cookbook I can think of that contains photos of dishes being prepared on an electric stove… The book also puts a healthy emphasis on drink pairings, with GM Andy Fortgang offering ‘Pigeon Pours’ for many recipes. ” – Paula Jones, Eater.com
    • Hm, celery root is apparently popular- here is Gabe making BBQ celery root with mâche and Dulce de Bourgogne in the Le Pigeon kitchen (same recipe I witnessed him demo at Bite of Oregon!)
  • Allen Salkin, signing postcards for forthcoming title
    • Allen Salkin is a hilarious guy. I’m not sure why they are being coy on the Feast website about the forthcoming title, which is From Scratch: Inside the Food Network. The book comes out in October, and promises to be a dramatic inside look of the inception of the Food Network and the various adventures of trying to mix the creative freedom inherent in those creating food and the hard line of the business of a network channel.
  • Andrea Slonecker, Pretzel Making at Home
    • “Here’s a new twist on an old favorite: pretzels warm from the oven. DIY bakers can make their own crunchy, chewy, savory, or sweet artisan pretzels with this collection of 50 recipes that imagines every way to shape, fill, and top them. Here are the traditional versions as well as novel creations such as Philly cheesesteak pretzel pockets and fried pretzel with cinnamon sugar. More substantial dishes like wild mushroom and chestnut pretzel stuffing, and pretzel bread pudding with caramel sauce elevate the humble pretzel to dinner-table fare as this tantalizing cookbook takes a cherished everyday snack to the next level of culinary creativity.” – book description
    • Check out Andrea making classic fresh soft German  pretzels here in this video:
  • Joe YonanEat Your Vegetables, Bold Recipes for the Single Cook
    • A collection of eclectic vegetarian and vegan recipes for singles as well as lone vegetarians in meat-eating households, so note the recipes are all meatless. “As more and more people embrace vegetable-heavy diets, the need for a primer on these wildly varying foods is great. … Recipes are designed to feed one but are easily doubled or can serve nicely as a side dish if desired. The greatly appealing dishes in this collection open up a whole new culinary world for veggie lovers.” – Publishers Weekly
    • Check out Joe doing one of the dishes from his cookbook, sweet potato soup with orange and smoky pecans
  • Michael Zusman and Nick Zukin, The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home (book would was just released on Sept 3!)
    • “Nick Zukin and Michael C. Zusman have written a cookbook that allows delicatessen enthusiasts to make their favorite deli dishes at home. Making your own knishes? No problem. Rustle up your own pickles? Bring it on. Michael and Nick manage to make deli food simultaneously contemporary and timeless, which is no easy feat. If reading The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home doesn’t make you hungry, you’ve never rhapsodized over a pastrami sandwich or driven a hundred miles for a transcendent plate of latkes. If my grandmother, the greatest Jewish deli–style cook I’ve ever known, were alive she’d be kvelling over this book.” – Ed Levine, founder of Seriouseats.com

I hope to see you at the Cookbook Social. Who are you looking forward to meeting?

Previously: I highlighted the Oregon Bounty Grand Tasting food festival scheduled for Sept 20 and 21 and also of my excitement for the Sandwich Invitational on Sept 19. I also described the Best Butcher and Fishmonger Face Off free event, and how I am so looking forward to my big splurge of the festival, High Comfort at the Nines, both are on Sept 21. I also highlighted a few interesting panels from the Speaker Series.

Disclosure: I was granted a Bloggers Pass for Feast Portland 2013, and asked to help promote Feast but they did not require that I write this post and I am not otherwise being compensated. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own, and I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences regardless of whether they were complimentary or not.

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The Four Seasons Farm Gardener’s Cookbook Review

Recently, I read and tried some recipes from The Four Season Farm Gardener’s Cookbook, From the Garden to the Table in 120 Recipes, authored by Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman. Both have been operating the Four Season Farm for more than 20 years, and have been involved professionally in farming and teaching (both in authoring/publishing and hosting the series Gardening Naturally for the Learning Channel 1993-2003, among other credentials) for more than 35 years, with more than 75 years experience between both of them. You can read more about them in the New York Times profile from last year “The Land That Keeps Giving“.

The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce

This extensive background and experience of this couple really shows in the first half of the Four Season Farm Gardener’s Cookbook, which actually focuses on the Garden rather than food recipes-  you can interpret it really as the first half being a Garden “Cook”book, and then the second half is the Table, with the promised 120 recipes and traditional cookbook.

I have been an urbanite whose gardening skills never have been explored more than growing a few of my favorite herbs of basil, dill, thyme, and Thai chili peppers, annually, so you can take this review as someone who is a total newbie to gardening, much less farming produce or anything beyond a windowsill box.

The book starts from the ground up- literally. The first chapter helps you identify what kind of soil you have, teaches you the difference between types of soil and how to improve your soil. The next chapters expound into how to think about and then decide on the size and layout of your garden, how to rotate different crops in your garden whether it be through a single year across seasons or across years. They then present six options of different kind of garden themes varying from one that is focused on producing lots of quick and satisfying results in the smallest space (The Salad Garden) to a theme of  dependable crops (The Hard Times Garden) or one that you don’t have to reseed every year because they are perennial or produce seeds (The Self Reliant Garden).

There is one chapter that goes into depth on each possible crop (grouped by family as they require similar care in growing). One example is spinach, talking about the differences between the taste of spinach through the season, giving advice on how to grow it, then harvest it, then store it, and finally various options to cook it- and they expand this to include almost 70 kinds of produce you might be considering to grow. This is probably going to be the chapter that I thumb through over and over as I encounter beautiful items in the farmers market, as I look up the produce and read suggestions on ways to cook and enjoy it. Although this chapter is technically in the Garden portion of the book with its advice on growing and harvesting, the information on storing and cooking it are definitely Table territory.

Each of these chapters is written with the voice that has clearly done everything that has been written and can provide tips. The voice is aware of both the science of how to make decisions based on the reality of various situations and talking through all of the data and information you might use to analyze and decide or more efficiently garden (such as offering advice on tools or watering techniques or weed control)- aka extremely practical- while also catering to the art of garden as an emotionally fulfilling enterprise by detailing the rich colors and textures and beauty of nature and feeling of productivity and satisfaction of feeding plants and them feeding us in return. At one point, the authors note how as each crop is ready you feel like the year is full of “little festivals” of produce.

In this first half of the book, pictures and illustrations abound, enticing you with beautiful photos of produce  you too can grow, or step by step of saving tomato seeds, or various map layouts of gardens or charts for crop rotations. So I was a little disappointed there were not more photos in the second half for the recipes. There are definitely some beautiful whole page layouts of some of the recipes, but many recipes have no photo, or at most a small photo of one of the ingredients of the recipe but not the dish itself. I am definitely a visual person, and the recipes I tried ended up being ones that had accompanying photos of the finished dish.

Her recipes are simple (she calls her style  “prosperous peasant”), featuring the freshness of the ingredients, all from scratch and the majority of the components which can come fresh from the garden… or in my case, purchased from the farmers market and someone else’s garden. Since asparagus has been looking so beautiful at the market that was one of the first recipes I picked out to try.

Asparagus Goldenrod

The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe

This recipe comes from Barbara Damrosch and her mother, and is named for the grated egg yolk that appears like goldenrod pollen. I chose to use two types of bread (paesano and seedy grain), but did not remove the crusts (and whoever styled the dish for the food photo did not either!). As an homage to what Barbara and Eliot stand for, I used everything from the Portland farmers market or Local Choice Market except the butter and black pepper.

Ingredients (serves 4):

  • 4 large eggs (mine are from Stiebrs Farm)
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream (I used Garry’s Meadow Fresh Jersey whipping cream)
  • 4 ounces (1 cup) of shredded Gruyere cheese (or, since I didn’t find a local Gruyere, I used a Gruyere-like cheese, Adams Alpine from Cascadia Creamery)
  • 40 medium size fresh asparagus spears
  • 4 large or 8 small slices of whole grain bread, crusts removed
  • 2 tablespoons butter at room temperature
  • freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

  1. Hard cook the eggs by placing the 4 eggs in a saucepan and adding enough water to cover the eggs. Bring the water to simmer over high heat, then immediately lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain the hot water and fill the pan with cold water to cool the eggs for at least 5 minutes.
  2. Peel the eggs and remove the yolk carefully so they remain whole. They should be firm enough to now grate. Coarsely chop the egg whites and set aside for the sauce.
  3. Pour the cream into a medium size skillet and bring to slow simmer over medium heat, stir, stirring constantly, until it has thickened. Gradually add the grated cheese, stirring until it has melted and is smooth. Add the egg whites, and keep the sauce warm over low heat.
  4. Toast the bread and then butter (optional), putting them on the plate you plan to serve with.
  5. Trim the asparagus spears to about 5 inches in length, and steam until the asparagus is tender, 2-5 minutes. (Or, you can roast or grill the asparagus, whatever you’d like.) Distribute the asparagus spears over the pieces of toast, and then cover with the creamy sauce. Top with the grated egg yolk and some black pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Asparagus Goldenrod recipe

Barbara advises that depending on the season, you can easily substitute broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, leeks, garlic scapes, etc for the asparagus. For most of the recipes there is a “Try This Too” section that suggests some variations to try. She often also suggests other dishes to serve with to make a complete complementary meal. She suggested a salad and a dessert of fresh fruit for this, but I made her Green Gazpacho that celebrates the bounty of greens with green pepper, celery, scallions, jalapeno, parsley, cilantro, and chives. Barbara also notes that you might also try adding green tomatoes, or tomatillos, to this “chlorophyll explosion, refreshing and pungent”.

Green Gazpacho

Ingredients (serves 4 as a main course, 6-8 as an appetizer):

  • 1 medium to large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into small chunks (approximately 1 1/2 cups)
  • 1-2 (I used 2) green jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
  • 1 medium size cucumber, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (approximately 3/4-1 cup)
  • 2 medium sized ribs celery, coarsely chopped (approximately 2/3 cup)
  • 6 scallions (white and green parts), coarsely chopped (approximately 1 cup)
  • 1 cup (packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
  • 1/4 cup (packed) fresh cilantro leaves, or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon agave syrup or 4 teaspoons raw sugar
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil (I happened to use blood orange olive oil)
  • 1/2 cup sour cream (you can also substitute tofu here)
  • 1 tablespoon very finely chipped fresh chives

Directions:

  1. Combine the bell and jalapeno peppers, cucumber, celery, and scallions and stir briefly. Put half the mixture into a food processor with 1 cup water and pulse until the mixture is just pureed, about 30 seconds. Return this to a large bowl (I used one that was 2.5 quarts).
  2. Repeat the above with the second half of prepped veggies + 1 cup water , but this time also adding the parsley, cilantro, agave syrup, lime and lemon juice, dash of salt and black pepper. Combine both purees in the large bowl, and add the olive oil and stir to mix. Taste and add salt or ground pepper as desired (this soup tastes best with enough salt to accent the flavors).
  3. Refrigerate if not serving right away. When serving, pour the gazpacho into individual bowls or glasses. Top each serving with 1 to 2 tablespoons of sour cream and a pinch of chives.

The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Green Gazpacho recipe, green pepper, celery, scallions, jalapeno, parsley, cilantro, and chives, spring soup recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Green Gazpacho recipe, green pepper, celery, scallions, jalapeno, parsley, cilantro, and chives, spring soup recipe The Four Seasons Farm Gardener's Cookbook review Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman gardening farming recipes local produce Green Gazpacho recipe, green pepper, celery, scallions, jalapeno, parsley, cilantro, and chives, spring soup recipe

Barbara Damrosch will be at POWELL’S BOOKS AT CEDARS HILL CROSSING (3415 SW Cedar Hills Blvd. Beaverton) on THURSDAY, MAY 30TH at 7pm to say hi and find out more about The Four Seasons Farm Gardener’s Cookbook (and get signed copies) she co-authored (she helped write the first half, and did most of the second half), or get advice about gardening. Barbara also authors a weekly column A Cook’s Garden in the Washington Post, seriously she is amazing.

Disclosure: This book was provided by Workman Publishing for me to review.  The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own, and I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences regardless of whether they were complimentary or not.

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