Visiting Church of our Savior and Tivoli

I tried to pack a lot into my 5 days, 4 nights in Copenhagen. as I’ve been covering in my series of posts. You may know that I usually start with first making a custom Google Map for myself of all the places I want to eat, then picking a place to stay that easily situates myself to those food destinations, I also need to fill my time with things between my meals. Visiting Church of Our Savior and Tivoli were those types of activities where I wanted to get a lot of walking in between meals. I don’t normally go out of my way for a panoramic view of a city, or an amusement park, but I had some time so I put them in my plan as possibilities, and the timing ended up working out.

Visiting Church of Our Savior, also known as Vor Frelsers Kirke, in Copenhagen Visiting Tivoli Amusement park during Halloween decoration time, October 2018

Visiting Church of Our Savior

Visiting Church of Our Savior, also known as Vor Frelsers Kirke, in Copenhagen Visiting Church of Our Savior, also known as Vor Frelsers Kirke, in Copenhagen

Also known as Vor Frelsers Kirke, the Church of Our Savior is located in the Christianshavn neighborhood of Copenhagen, and the other well known attraction/area here is Freetown Christiania, a bohemian counterculture community with its own governing council. Church of Our Savior is one of two locations in Copenhagen known for its panoramic views – the other being The Round Tower.

Church of Our Savior is iconic to Copenhagen for its spire, built in 1752, accessible via series of stairs (some steep enough to be ladders…) inside the tower and then the stairs continue outside as part of the spire itself.  The tower is also known as the “Heavenly Ladder” and Christ is at the top with a victory banner.

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Visiting Rosenborg Castle

Visiting Rosenborg Castle, also known as Rosenborg Slot, is the best of the royal residences I think within the city of Copenhagen. Amelienborg Palace, which is a current residence of the royal family, is a smaller museum that has more recent examples of history, while Christiansborg Palace is mainly a draw for the Royal Reception rooms (which were closed during my visit so always check). Rosenborg Castle on the other hand offers 400 years of history particularly artifacts and stories from one of Denmark’s most colorful kings, Christian IV.

Visiting Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen, offering 400 years of history particularly artifacts and stories from one of Denmark's most colorful kings, Christian IV.

The way the self guided tour works is that you start going through the main castle first and all of its 3 floors, and then exit the castle and go around to another entrance to the basement which is where you’ll find the treasury, including the crown jewels. Here are a few of my favorite highlights from visiting Rosenborg Castle.
Visiting Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen, offering 400 years of history particularly artifacts and stories from one of Denmark's most colorful kings, Christian IV. You'll also get to visit the treasury which holds the crown jewels

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The Reffen street food market

Reffen is a street food market in Copenhagen that is essentially a group of shipping containers bound by different communal dining areas each with different atmosphere. Each shipping container is its own business – most were offering food from all over the world, all blending like all the various diners at the tables, into a global melting pot. The Reffen street food market is in an unlikely location that you have to pass by several industrial parks which make you question whether you are going the right way… but once you are there, you can surprisingly dine even al fresco right by the water and across the harbor you can see The Little Mermaid and Amalienborg Palace.

Apparently they know visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you’re not lost, you’re almost there.
The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there. The food market of Reffen knows visitors need reassurance so some sandwich boards let you know you're not lost, you're almost there.

At the Reffen street food market you’ll find more then 30 food carts, as well as some additional creative spaces that have popped up here. Some dining areas are covered with a roof only while some even had four walls. Every stall store is cashless and accepts credit cards only (or use cash to purchase a prepaid credit card) and uses recyclable or compostable foodwares to reduce waste.

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Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek versus Thorvaldsen’s Museum

During my last Travel Tuesday post I shared ideas of how to enjoy free things in Copenhagen. I recommended looking up when are the free days at various museums to take advantage of visiting on those days. This worked out twice in my favor during my last visit, as I visited the sculpture museums of Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, free on Tuesdays, and then Thorvaldsen’s Museum, which is free on Wednesdays. Today I will share more details from both these museums, both which showcase sculpture, so you know what you will get at each museum.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen include the bronze works of Edgar Degas, including Little Dancer of Fourteen Years Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen statue, Antonin Mercié (1895) by Jean-Louis-Ernest Meissonier which is discovered in a damp cellar and is currently in the midst of being restored

I thought that both are primarily sculpture museum was a big draw as I looked forward to seeing several famous works in person instead of the flat photos I remember from my Humanities textbook. I recall in high school studying the change from the more stately, monument body form in sculptures to a more humanistic capture of more natural instead of stylized bodies, and then art starting to embody frozen action and emotion. I also in school had really enjoyed studying Greek and Roman myths, which are also used as inspiration for many sculptures.

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Lunch at Geranium

During my trip to Copenhagen recently, I splurged on a luxurious lunch dining at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant run by a chef who has won gold, silver and bronze at the Bocuse D’or, essentially an international culinary Olympics. It was a lunch that lasted 4 hours, basically filled me up so dinner was no longer necessary, and included 18 small dishes. I’ll also say upfront that this was a meal that has me tightening up my food dining budget for the rest of the year – the Autumn Universe Tasting menu, which is prix fixe, is 2,500 DKK – about $382. And that is before any beverage pairings (wine pairing options range from 1,400-4,200 DKK), though I opted for the juice pairing at 750 DKK. Is it worth it? It is if you have the right mindframe.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen
In the back glass case behind the fireplace you can see the Bocuse D’or, trophies of with gold, silver, and bronze.

My experience dining at Geranium was not my first experience in the Michelin star restaurant world – and in of course a controversial arbitrary filter the Michelin stars are only awarded in four cities in the US. The limitation means that you can definitely find food that is just as delicious without the Michelin star in both high and low places, including I think here in Portland.

That said, there is a certain difference between difference that I do notice at the few Michelin starred restaurants I have experienced– and its beyond deliciousness. What IMHO are the differentiating factors are consistency in all the dishes are executed at a high level, the elegant and meticulously designed service, and finally overall dining experience being composed of more then just the food that goes in your mouth. So to make the Geranium or any of this level of restaurant feel worth it, you have to be aware and appreciate those additional characteristics.

It’s a little weird to find Geranium given it’s location at the Telia Parken Stadium. The atmosphere of Geranium is clean and minimalist in white and grey tones, but also comfortable. I appreciated that my dining seat was basically a mini-couch, complete with a couple pillows. Floor to ceiling windows let us look out into the bright autumn foliage and sunshine of the Fælledparken Garden outside. It was perfection in setting the stage and underscoring throughout the meal when the theme is Autumn. The same menu is served at lunch and dinner and I prefer enjoying it in the full light of day then.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

My table also was right next to the area of the kitchen where they did the plating (the cooking of the dishes happens in additional kitchen areas beyond, which you get to see later before dessert as part of the restaurant tour). There is one more table you can barely see behind mine where the occupant can watch all the plating happen, but I liked the option to also watch the other diners in the room or turn to see the kitchen easily. I was literally the first guest for lunch to show up (which is why my photos initially show an empty dining room), so often I was among the first to get a dish and I could also watch the fun of the reactions of other diners to those dishes.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

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