Nel Centro is one of those hidden gems of a restaurant. Most people don’t think to go dine or hang out at what is the restaurant of a hotel – and in many cases they are over priced, serving food for business expense accounts that are American staples generic enough to please any traveler. But yet, you can’t deny that Imperial of Hotel Lucia and Departure and Urban Farmer of The Nines break that mold by pushing that envelope to bring good food that can comfort after a long work day but also allow creative license to wow you with deliciousness in new ways. It helps that Hotel Lucia and The Nines are boutique hotels – and so is Hotel Modera, which is where Nel Centro resides.
Nel Centro is also cousins with Hotel Eastland, home of the trendy Altabira Tavern by the Oregon Convention Center I’ve written about earlier. Hotel Modera is in Southwest Portland but still walkable to downtown, and located perfectly by theaters like Keller Auditorium and Arlene Schnitzer as well as PSU and the museums by the South Park Blocks.
I don’t like to always advertise Nel Centro and how I adore their fire pit outdoor patio, mostly because I don’t want competition for those seats in the evening while sipping cocktails. So can I encourage you to go for lunch, dinner, or to their brunch that takes reservations…
Nel Centro specializes in cuisine of the French and Italian Riviera, bringing you options that are light and classic but the simplicity still promises plenty of flavor. For an authentic Italian Riviera touch, I enjoy that they offer foccacia as part of the complimentary bread service with dinner.
Perhaps start by sharing the Mussels with Garlic and Parsley available at lunch, happy hour, and dinner. There’s so many mussels included in the bowl they barely fit.
For lunch or happy hour, there’s also this fantastic Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Pizza which would be great to share with 4 or more as a starter – it has lots of bold full flavors. Or make it your main dish at the bar.
Meanwhile, a starter especially for happy hour and dinner service is this Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique. This is a winning dish – I can eat this one all by myself.
They change their cocktail options seasonally, but also create special drinks to go with the theme of various theater productions. For instance, everyone at my table enjoyed The Magic Flute cocktail, a special creation for the Portland Opera Prosecco, Nardini Acqua di Cedro, Grapefruit Bitters – even someone who said she doesn’t usually like sparkling wine!
For the current Sweeney Todd production of Portland Opera, they have crafted the Sweeney Todd cocktail with Bulleit Bourbon, Luxardo Marschino, and Creme de Cacao.
Other drinks from productions in the past are still in the rotation by popular demand, such as the Ol’ Man River cocktail with Burnside Bourbon, Calisaya, and bitters, inspired by the Portland Opera’s 2015 run of Show Boat.
I usually skip right past the salad section of a menu, but the Nel Centro salad of Roasted Beets with Baked Ricotta, Arugula, Orange and Hazelnuts is seriously perfect. I appreciate the ratio of their fresh cheese to everything else to, don’t you? I’ve been loving this salad combo since 2011, believe it or not as proved by this previous blog post. Just for lunch, you can also imagine yourself at the French Riviera with the Grilled Tuna Niçoise Salad.
Another Italian Riviera famous dish is pesto – so you should give serious consideration to their lunch and dinner option of Spaghetti with Kale Pesto, Almonds and Pecorino. I like saving some of the complimentary focaccia at dinner to eat with the pesto so I can really pretend I’m there in Italy.
At Nel Centro they make their pastas daily, so you won’t go wrong with other great pasta bets like the Spinach and Ricotta Tortelli with English Peas and Lemon or the Pappardelle with Braised Lamb Shoulder and Smoked Pecorino, both also available at lunch and dinner. OK OK I confess I pretty much want ALL their pasta dishes.
In addition, at lunch Nel Centro offers a selection of intriguing sandwiches varying from Spit Roasted Pork with Mostarda di Frutta to one with Rotisserie Chicken with Bacon and Herb Aioli, Albacore Tuna Melt on Levain with Raschera cheese, or Fried Eggplant with Tomato Jam & Feta Cheese for the vegetarian. Seriously, one of the best and classiest business lunch options you can pick.
Meanwhile at dinner, the sandwich sections shifts into a heavier main entrees that include Rotisserie Chicken, Spit Roasted Pork Chop, Halibut, Grilled Skirt Steak or Grilled New York steak, or Lamb Shank.
For brunch, not only can you get the Duck Leg Confit with Kumquat Gastrique, Rotisserie Chicken sandwich or Spit Roasted Pork Sandwich that I mentioned above, but they have a Poached Eggs on Griddled Polenta with Cured Pork Loin & Sage Hollandaise. Yes. This particular poached eggs on polenta with pork dish is available every day to jump start your morning since it’s also on their normal everyday breakfast menu. It’s one of the things I love about hotel restaurants – I don’t have to always fight it out at brunch if something I love is on their regular breakfast rotation anyway.
This year marks Nel Centro’s seventh anniversary – congratulations! – and this milestone helps reinforce how they have been doing well all along, even without your knowledge. But now you’re in the know with me too.
One thing I should warn you is that it’s best to visit after the theater crowd leaves since there is a big hustle to get them in and out quickly that changes the airy open atmosphere – unless of course you are a theater goer yourself, then this will work out as they are experienced in making sure you will get to the show on time.
Which of these dishes intrigues you? Have you heard of or been to Nel Centro before?
Disclosure: I attended a complimentary bloggers/media dinner, but I also returned on my own and I have been at the restaurant several times previously. I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.
