Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX

One of the biggest bargains in fine dining with can be found at Roe Portland. Two dining experiences are available, and I have tried both. In the spring (unfortunately the day just after I cracked my camera phone lens) I enjoyed the Tasting Menu. For this menu, it is prix fixe but you have a certain list of dishes to choose between for your four courses for the huge value price of $68 per person – you can easily run that up per person for four courses any restaurant, but you get the extra experience of the fine dining service at Roe. Recently, I went back and tried the Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX for the price of $138, and you get seven courses plus some surprises. Here’s look at what the experience was like for me in the first of October 2019.

Finding the restaurant is a bit of an adventure to start with. Located in downtown Portland, only a few blocks away from Pioneer Square, you have to enter a building called Morgan’s Alley- there isn’t even a sign for Roe visible. Look for the Oregon Wines on Broadway and go through the doors just to the left of this wine bar and bottle shop. Keep pressing through the hallways to the back until you see stairs, and follow those up to a very subtle restaurant entrance.
Roe Portland, located in Morgan's Alley in the back - finding the restaurant so I can enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX Roe Portland, located in Morgan's Alley in the back - finding the restaurant so I can enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX

When you enter, you are transported away from the busyness of Portland and your day into the dimly lit entrance foyer of Roe PDX. There is a card with your last name waiting for you, and once the host returns to the cart, he or she will take your coats, pour you a libation to greet you. In my visits to Roe, this has varied from some hot dashi in the winter to sparkling to in this visit, a chamomile tea infused vermouth aperitif.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, initial entrance foyer Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, initial entrance foyer

Shortly after, you will be led to your seats at your table or the chef’s counter (which has it’s own reservations). There are no walk-ins at Roe – but it’s easy to make reservations online and check the available times lots on Tock. Most seats have a view of the open kitchen, and I appreciate that the tables are spaced well enough that you can enjoy private conversation – this is not a noisy restaurant so you can really enjoy the food and drink and your dining companions.
interior of restaurant as I prepare to enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX interior of restaurant as I prepare to enjoy the Chef's Menu at Roe PDX

You can select to purchase beverages by the glass, or bottle, or have a pairing. We opted for the beverage pairing. The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course. If you have any food allergies or such, they do check with you by sending you a message the day before your reservation, and they check one more time in person here. You also have an option of caviar add on if you so choose. Ok, we’re ready, game on – and we so choose to enjoy some caviar service please.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu

Amuse Bouches and (optional) Caviar

Before the dinner courses, we are treated to some complimentary snacks, or amuse bouches. The first set of amuse bouches included Housemade dashi, Hamachi crudo with walnut pecan and concord grape, and Albacore tartare in buckwheat crepe with wasabi. These amuse bouches and the caviar were paired with one of my favorite pairings of the evening, a Quince fruit wine from Art + Science.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science

Then, the next amuse bouches arrived almost at the same time as the caviar. I was fine with the pan fried salt cod with caviar but honestly the excitement of the caviar made me forget to note what was exactly the second snack here besides that it was in a roasted peanut topping.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial amuse bouches and caviar service were paired with  delicious Quince fruit wine from Art + Science

The caviar service ranges from some individual caviar selections from the low end of $45 up to a trio of caviar for $175. The caviar is served with warm potato blini, whipped creme fraiche, and sieved egg. It’s simple and perfect – I would always get this add on from now on if I visit Roe.
Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu Chef's Menu at Roe PDX, The initial menu showing you the courses is only a teaser, with only a noun to designate one of the main ingredients for each course Roe PDX Caviar Service Menu, an optional add on to the Tasting Menu or Chef's Menu

How about we finally get down to seeing the courses of the dinner for the Chef’s Menu at Roe PDX now? We haven’t even started on the first listing yet!

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Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight: Higgins Portland

For Foodie Friday today, I continue my new series highlighting a Portland Drink and a Bite of food that I think not only is best in class within Portland, but is a classic representation of the character of Portland. Of course, that Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight is also delicious, and unique.

My pick this week is Higgins Portland. Higgins Restaurant and Bar is one of those classic Pacific Northwest cuisine restaurants that changes its menu weekly to reflect what is the best in local products for not only the season but for the week. There are many restaurants and even food carts in Portland now that take advantage of the best ingredients from the farmers and producers locally here, but Higgins has been doing so for more than 20 years, and promoted this responsibility and represented Oregon worldwide.

Chef Greg Higgins (2002 James Beard award as Best Chef in the Northwest) and the Higgins Restaurant and Bar philosophy strongly sources not only local ingredients, but focuses in supporting on local small farms, organic, and sustainable agriculture practices. Higgins believes not only in delicious food on the table, but stewardship of our soil, water and air.

Higgins’ premise is “food is community – an idea that creates respect, commitment and responsibility from farmer to chef to diner.”  (See more at the Higgins website. There is also a wonderful profile for the Higgins 20th anniversary at Oregon Live.).

It’s no wonder than that when visitors to Portland ask where they can try Pacific Northwest cuisine, Higgins is always on my list of recommendations. Higgins is a white tablecloth restaurant that is perfect for a business lunch or a classy meal of lunch or dinner.

You notice the focus on celebrating freshness and the best ingredients right away with even the complimentary bread service, which comes with perfect bread- crusty crunchy on the outside, soft and doughy on the inside- that you can enjoy with organic extra virgin olive oil.
Higgins Restaurant bread service, which comes with perfect bread- crusty crunchy on the outside, soft and doughy on the inside- that you can enjoy with organic extra virgin olive oil

Try to start with the famous Charcuterie Board of artisanal cured meats and pickles. It’s justifiably reknown – it superb in offering an array of flavors and textures upon its giant marble board, as what you would expect when you hear Chef Greg Higgins has loved charcuterie since he was a boy and has books in his library on charcuterie that daties even to the 17th and 18th centuries.

Higgins Portland Restaurant- Charcuterie board of artisanal cured meats and pickles

The specific bite I want to highlight for this Portland Drink and a Bite though is the Higgins Lunch and Bistro menu option of the Open-faced sandwich of pastrami, grilled onions & sharp white cheddar. Here I substituted the salad with their daily soup, a butternut squash with quinoa that day.
Higgins Lunch and Bistro menu option of the Open-faced sandwich of pastrami, grilled onions & sharp white cheddar - here I substituted the salad with their daily soup, a butternut squash with quinoa Higgins Portland Lunch and Bistro menu option of the Open-faced sandwich of pastrami, grilled onions & sharp white cheddar - here I substituted the salad with their daily soup, a butternut squash with quinoa

I think it’s the best pastrami in Portland.
Higgins Portland Lunch and Bistro menu option of the Open-faced sandwich of pastrami, grilled onions & sharp white cheddar Higgins Portland Lunch and Bistro menu option of the Open-faced sandwich of pastrami, grilled onions & sharp white cheddar

One of the unique things about Higgins is they have on staff not only a wine sommelier, but also a beer steward. You can rest easy ordering any beverage here because all the picks are wonderful at this Portland institution. Instead of a specific cocktail, I urge you to use your best judgement based on what is on the list. In particular I love the wine by the glass list here in highlighting producers I may not have heard of before locally.
Higgins, Portland - menu and a lovely glass of red wine, here Waterbrook Melange red blend of 47% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 4% Grenache, 2% Sangiovese and 1% each of Mourvedre, Cinsault and Counoise. From Columbia Valley, Washington.

Have you been to Higgins Portland? Have you had the pastrami there? Where do you think is the best pastrami in Portland?

Higgins Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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A September Dinner at Farm Spirit

I’ve had Farm Spirit on my wish list for quite a while since they first opened a few months ago in mid June, and recently for our wedding anniversary F and I enjoyed a Saturday evening 12 course dinner there.

Farm Spirit is completely vegan, and their dinners are purchased by ordering online a ticket to one of their 9 or 12 course chef’s choice dinner courses. The tickets prices listed already include a gratuity, though beverages are extra and you can choose from individual wine glasses to individual housemade non-alcoholic drinks, or a flight of either of those. The flights can be pre-purchased on the website, or  you can order the flight or individual drinks at dinner and pay for them then.

Wednesday and Thursdays are 9 courses for $65, and Friday and Saturday nights offer 12 courses at $75. You arrive slightly before 7 PM which is when they open the doors for everyone. When they serve dinner they do so when everyone arrives and everyone gets their courses simultaneously, so don’t be late as you’ll hold everyone else up!
Outside of Farm Spirit at 1414 SE Morrison Street waiting for doors to open (they did around 6:50 for our 7pm dinner) The inside of Farm Spirit consists of 14 seats Inside of Farm Spirit, at seating. Chef Ricardo welcomes us at the door and explains the beverage program while Chef Tim is on the final prep of the first course. Inside of Farm Spirit, at seating. Your placecards have your name from the reservation to indicate your seats. Wall behind the bar at Farm Spirit

The 14 seats inside Farm Spirit are right at a chef’s bar, which will remind you of a omakase bar such as the chef choice dinners at Nodoguro, or Holdfast. You get to watch them plate every course, which is pretty impressive as they plate the next upcoming courses on each side of the two induction burners in the center.

I was pretty excited because F, who is vegetarian, never accompanies me to these kind of chef’s choice fine dining dinners and has never had the experience of seeing chefs running the pass and the incredible art for the eye that these food plates offer besides culinary art for the palate. Also, he has a much better cameraphone than I do (Nokia Lumia 1020 vs my Samsung Galaxy S4) that is incredible at picking up light.
Seating at Farm Spirit Seating at Farm Spirit Inside of Farm Spirit, at seating. Your placecards have your name from the reservation to indicate your seats. Chef Aaron Adams is working on the prep of the second course.

The chefs of Farm Spirit are serious about their food, and serious about service that includes placecards for your assigned seats, replacing napkins when a guest is on a bathroom trip, and changing out silverware a few times (but not every course – each seating has a silverware rest used for a few courses before the next swap).

At the same time, Farm Spirit has a very laid back, playful vibe. During the 3 hour dinner experience, we saw a little dancing, a little singing, and the dining soundtrack varied from Under Pressure to Safety Dance.
Front of Menu on September 5, 2015 at Farm Spirit Back of Menu on September 5, 2015 at Farm Spirit\

As you can expect at a farm to table restaurant like this, the menu changes based on the availability of what is at the Farmer’s Market or the various farms they buy directly from, which Chef Aaron Adams seems to be at pretty much everyday as he listed off seriously half a dozen markets and farms from where he sources his ingredients.

Alongside Chef Aaron is Chef Ricardo (who also is the man behind the handmade drinks and all fermentation be it pickles, kombucha or yogurt) and Chef Tim (tweezer master who also bakes the bread and is responsible for desserts), and the three men pow-wow every week to decide what the dishes will be.

But, here’s what we had on September 5th, 2015.

First Course

Smoked eggplant pureed with fennel jam on housemade bread
Housemade bread, a smoked eggplant pureed, fennel jam

As I enjoyed my Tempranillo for the night, F had ordered the homemade non-alcoholic beverage flight so Chef Rico poured the Watermelon Mint Juice as Chef Adam explained the course and the philosophy of Farm Spirit and where they source their food.
Chef Aaron Adams of Farm Spirit explains the philosophy of the restaurant and where he sources his ingredients Chef Ricardo pours the Watermelon Mint Juice, the first of the housemade non-alcoholic drink flight Watermelon Mint Juice

Second Course

Celtuce, harukei turnips, peach puree, Soarer cucumber, fried walnuts
Celtuce, harukei turnips, peach puree, Soarer cucumber, fried walnuts Celtuce, harukei turnips, peach puree, Soarer cucumber, fried walnuts
This was one of F’s two favorite platings because of the charm the plating of a plant made from plant. This was the dish Chef Aaron was adding the nuts when we first walked in to be seated as Chef Tim worked on plating the third course…

Third Course

Tomato Water, plums, herbs, basil oil, nasturtium capers, cherry tomatoes
Plating of Third Course by Chef Tim at Farm Spirit Tomato Water, plums, herbs, basil oil, nasturtium capers, cherry tomatoes
As casual as Farm Spirit it, still felt too soon to be lifting bowls to our lips to drink every single drop of this course. Not sure we’d be shy the next time we have a bowl presented to us though.

Fourth Course

Summer Squash, ground cherries, arugula sauce, yellow tomato vinaigrette, calendula
Summer Squash, ground cherries, arugula sauce, yellow tomato vinaigrette, calendula
You can’t help but admire what a pain this probably was to prep and plate but with such effect at the end. As Chef Aaron began to plate the next course (we saw the tomato leaves in sauce being warmed by him as we enjoyed this first squash course), Chef Rico finished plating with Chef tim this Summer Squash dish and shifted back to beverage director role as he poured the next homemade non-alcoholic drink, the Earl Grey Kombucha
Teamwork by Chef Tim and Rico in plating the Summer Squash, ground cherries, arugula sauce, yellow tomato vinaigrette, calendula Chef Rico pouring the Earl Grey Kombucha Earl Grey Kombucha

Fifth Course

Squash Blossom stuffed with crushed potatoes, tomatillo, sweet corn, peppers and chilis, tomato sauce, tomato leaves dish
Squash Blossom crushed potatoes, tomatillo, sweet corn, peppers and chilis, tomato sauce, tomato leaves dish
Chef Aaron read everyone’s minds in explaining that yes, see, tomato leaves are totally edible and his 90 something year old grandmother has been eating them for decades.
Chef Aaron putting together the Squash Blossom crushed potatoes, tomatillo, sweet corn, peppers and chilis, tomato sauce, tomato leaves dish Chef Aaron putting together the Squash Blossom crushed potatoes, tomatillo, sweet corn, peppers and chilis, tomato sauce, tomato leaves dish

Sixth Course

Eggplant, coriander filbert yogurt, fried hazelnuts, fennel pollen, mint, dill
Eggplant, coriander filbert yogurt, fried hazelnuts, fennel pollen, mint, dill Eggplant, coriander filbert yogurt, fried hazelnuts, fennel pollen, mint, dill
I think the Eggplant was just roasted, grilled, and smoked or some combination that involved more cooking than one fire element, despite being listed as simply eggplant on the menu. I loved how smoky the eggplant was, and the combination with coriander and pollen.
Eggplant, coriander filbert yogurt, fried hazelnuts, fennel pollen, mint, dill Eggplant, coriander filbert yogurt, fried hazelnuts, fennel pollen, mint, dill

Seventh Course

Roasted (after Sous-Vide in aromatic herb bath) Carrot, smoked walnut milk, cabbage cider, golden beet juice
Roast Carrot, smoked walnut milk, cabbage cider, golden beet juice Roast Carrot, smoked walnut milk, cabbage cider, golden beet juice
Has a carrot looked so good before?
Roast Carrot, smoked walnut milk, cabbage cider, golden beet juice

Eighth Course

Chanterelles, celeriac puree, chervil, onion cream, chard
Chanterelles, celeriac puree, chervil, onion cream, chard Chanterelles, celeriac puree, chervil, onion cream, chard
We loved how creamy the celeriac puree is to give us richness in this dish. It was dramatic watching this plate begin to be plated given it started with Chef Tim literally firing each plate with a blowtorch.
Chef Tim just literally firing up the plates for the next course Chef Tim just literally firing up the plates for the next course

There was a little too much chervil in this dish for my taste that threw off the balance of the dish,  but still all the plates were scraped clean up and down the chefs bar. This dish was paired with the next homemade drink of the flight, Golden Beet Apple Ginger non-alcoholic beverage
Golden Beet Apple Ginger non-alcoholic homemade beverage at Farm Spirit

Ninth Course

Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation
Chef Aaron painstakingly prepearing the Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation Chef Aaron painstakingly prepearing the Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation Chef Aaron painstakingly prepearing the Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation
Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation Filbert yogurt and ash coated potatoes with herbs on red beet kombucha with a River Rock presentation

Both F and I loved watching this plating happen since it was being done right in front of us by  Chef Aaron and Tim as they painstakingly arranged each element, picking just the right ingredients down to watching Chef Aaron carefully consider which potato from the roasting pan to use.

Tenth Course

Candied Sungolds, basil, rye, olive oil semi-freddo
Candied Sungolds, basil, rye, olive oil semi-freddo Candied Sungolds, basil, rye, olive oil semi-freddo
Finally, the dessert courses right? So full already… the pairing of homemade beverages for this course was the Melon Pear juice. This was another dish where I thought it was slightly off balance because of the intensity of the basil sauce, though I have to admire its color.
Melon Pear juice

Eleventh Course

Blackberry, olive oil cake, licorice mint, fennel pollen, anise glass
Blackberry, olive oil cake, licorice mint, fennel pollen, anise glass
The white powder you see Chef Tim carefully plating with is olive oil powder. This and the next course were paired with Apple Fennel Thyme Scrub that is diluted a bit with soda water for effervescent bubbles.
Chef Tim plates the Blackberry, olive oil cake, licorice mint, fennel pollen, anise glass course Chef Tim plates the Blackberry, olive oil cake, licorice mint, fennel pollen, anise glass course Apple Fennel Thyme Scrub

Twelfth Course

Seascape Strawberries, aqua faba, lemon filbert cream, sorrel, hardy kiwis
Seascape Strawberries, aqua faba, lemon filbert cream, sorrel, hardy kiwis Seascape Strawberries, aqua faba, lemon filbert cream, sorrel, hardy kiwis
We got to hear a little ode of love to aqua faba by Chef Aaron, who explained that this was a solidfier that can replace the traditional role of eggs in desserts – aqua faba is created from chickpea liquid, which means it is also gluten free and natural instead of a processed starch or gluten or soy. So that meringue you see up there on the plate – I could not tell the difference between one that would have traditionally been made from egg whites. So it definitely works and tastes right.

To finish, we were treated to a hot beverage service which included coffee or tea, and I went with the green tea. Chef Rico also gave us a little goodie bag of zucchini bread for us to remember Farm Spirit by later that night/the next morning.
Warm beverages to finish off the dinner at Farm Spirit - I went with tea while F went with coffee Chef Rico joyfully passes out his zucchini bread wrapped in white paper Chef Rico's Zucchini Bread A goodbye gift from Farm Spirit via Chef Ricardo's zucchini bread

We wanted to enjoy the food upon serving so that we could taste it at the peak of the intended temperature, but each plate was so gorgeous it was hard to limit myself to only 30 seconds of photo taking. I’m curious to see how Farm Spirit will find the upcoming winter where the produce variety dwindles from the summer and autumn bounty, and wish them all the best. I love the concept and the way they focus on really putting together unique flavor combinations. They really celebrate and show off that when you get the best product, you don’t need meat or dairy to enjoy deliciousness.

Farm Spirit Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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