In the mail I've been receiving sometimes an advertising packet that includes a 50% off a meal at H5O Bistro and Bar. I have been recycling most of them, but I had a group of coworkers who I had been at H50 before (their free valet parking for two hours for diners is great for bringing people together for a meal here), and there is something nice about being able to look out the restaurant windows and gaze upon the river and the people there. Although my last visit I thought they were confused and trying too hard, I thought since it's been a year, I had one of these flyers, maybe they have sorted themselves out. Let's give them a chance.
One of the things that worked in the past for H50 were their interesting specialty drinks that I had enjoyed last year. The list has become more tame now- much to the disappointment of everyone at the table, and even when asking about the previous drinks it became clear they were dead history- not able to be remade by request. This time, it was hard to find something I wanted from their list of 7 specialty cocktails.. I ended up selecting a jalsico horchada, composed of el relingo tequila, rice milk, chai spice simply syrup, cinnamon. When everyone else at the table had their drinks arrive, the waitress explained mine was still in progress because they had to search around for the recipe to make it. Honest to tell me that's why my drink wasn't there yet but I'm not sure as a waitress I would tell your guest that you don't know how to make it… When I did receive it, it was only so so. I think even a normal horchata would have had more flavor.
As we waited for all the guests of the table to arrive, we asked for a side of fries for us to nibble on. The best part of the meal at H50 Bistro and Bar were their "fancy fries", which offer "Parmesan, chive, truffle, hint of spice". I don't know what they were talking about spicewise… I didn't detect any. Also, these are not as good as the fabulous truffle fries at Violetta in terms of flavor, although these are obviously shoestring fries instead of the thicker cut fries at Violetta. I wish they had been a bit more generous with sprinkling the parmesan, as it was more truffle oil with chives.
For my starter, I went with the Wild Mushroom Fondue sauteed mushrooms, bleu cheese and provolone mornay with crispy bread. In terms of an appetizer offering, this is a great idea and the fondue itself had great depth in flavor. But that little pot was really really hot and couldn't really be eaten until after the entrees already arrived. Although the serving pot is cute, it wasn't conducive to cooling it off to actually eat and enjoy this offering – the presentation idea is overtaking the dish concept.
This was the third burger of Burger Month (May), and the most mediocre. The previous H50 burger had been a blue cheese burger with mushrooms, smoky bleu cheese, and caramelized onion… now tuned down to a definition of Painted Hills beef, brioche bun, tillamook cheddar, lettuce, tomato, red onion, aioli, along with more truffle parmesan chive fries. The melted cheese looks sexy, but why so skimpy on the lettuce? The meat is medium and as you can see, ok in terms of juicyness but nothing special either, and the bun could have been fresher or toasted. I didn't taste anything of the aioli. Although the meat was decent, with so many burger offerings in Portland, it's not enough to have good beef cooked well- the accompaniments all have to contribute and not just be there as window dressing. Here, it seems only the fries were as thoughtfully conceived as the burger patty.
The excellent soups of last year are still on the menu… as well as their continued weird insistence of sushi as well somehow fitting in with their "Bistro and Bar" menu. The atmosphere of the restaurant itself is still fantastic, although also mostly empty…. and in that same vein, I can't argue that each dish was plated to be very pleasing to the eye…. but tastewise not bad but also coming up a bit empty too. I expect both at the same level- even and especially with these dishes that don't go past the $20 mark, you aren't going to earn my trust to go for those more expensive entrees or the chef multicourse menu if I'm not feasting at the basic mouthfeel level of these simple staples. It seems like H50 is still figuring itself out in its teen years of putting on the makeup and wearing the designer labels, hoping to only have to use its smarts only when it has to for those in the right group, not everybody at school.
