Pasta at Rick Gencarelli’s Grassa

Grassa offers another option in the now super delicious West End area of Southwest 12th and Washington, right next to Lardo (both by Rick Gencarelli, and who I’ve been visiting monthly for their chefwich collaboration for charity) and Racion, and also just across the street from Ruby Jewel and Cheryl’s on 12th, also a block from Jake’s Famous CrawfishTasty n Alder and Gruner and if you just walk a block more, Petunia’s Pies & Pastries and Saint Cupcake Galore. You can go to Ringler’s Annex for a whiskey, rum, or bourbon flight besides the usual McMenamins beers, but I’m keeping my eye out also on the in progress Multnomah Whiskey Library. This 3 block radius is kicking!

When I heard Rick was opening up a place devoted to pasta, it was at the top of my must try list, and I was happy I was finally able to go this past weekend. As soon as you walk in the glass door etched with their signature eagle, you are at an ordering counter.

A chalkboard that extends up to the high modern workshop loft ceilings with the menu. We decided to go with food only this time, since I had dragged F over here (well, I did give him 3 multiple choice options I had filtered down, so he did get to pick at the end) after an Oakshire Barrel Aged Beer seminar at the Upper Lip (you can read great coverage of that event from a post by fellow blogger Kris at Beer Musings from Portland).

Rick Gencarelli's Grassa menu, Portland PDX Rick Gencarelli's Grassa menu, Portland PDX

After ordering, you are given a number and seat yourself in the airy space that makes it seem like you are sitting in an extension of their kitchen prep area, or in a cooking class, a combination of industrial modernity and functionality. Look at those extension cords from the ceiling over those prime seats looking into the kitchen and right in front of the pasta machines!

I don’t know how I could resist the temptation of not picking a bite out of those trays of pasta to the right either. Recipes were jotted on a chalkboard – I will try to ignore the amount of butter in the garlic bread I am about to eat.

Rick Gencarelli's Grassa interior Rick Gencarelli's Grassa interior Rick Gencarelli's Grassa interior Recipes jotted on a board- I will try to ignore the amount of butter in the garlic bread I am about to eat- at Rick Gencarelli's Grassa interior

I started out with the garlic bread.

Grassa, garlic bread, from Rick Gencarelli

I went with the pasta dish of Radiatore with tomato braised chicken, crisp skin, ricotta, basil. I loved the play on textures with the shapes of the radiatore and savory braised chicken and saved my last bite to be one of those bits of crisp skin.

Radiatore with tomato braised chicken, crisp skin, ricotta, basil, from Grassa by Rick Gencarelli Radiatore with tomato braised chicken, crisp skin, ricotta, basil, from Grassa by Rick Gencarelli

Vegetarian F had the Bucatini wtih hazelnut pesto, zucchini, mozzarella crema and I was jealous. I love pesto. The pasta was toothy and the hazelnuts gave it some crunch while the mozzarella was the embrace of liquid love on top.
Bucatini wtih hazelnut pesto, zucchini, mozzarella crema, from Grassa by Rick Gencarelli Bucatini wtih hazelnut pesto, zucchini, mozzarella crema, from Grassa by Rick Gencarelli

And yes, in case you were wondering, Grassa translated means “fat” in Italian, so he’s still celebrating it, and I’m right there with him!

Bucatini wtih hazelnut pesto, zucchini, mozzarella crema and Radiatore with tomato braised chicken, crisp skin, ricotta, basil, from Grassa by Rick Gencarelli

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Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

A dinner at Nostrana, thanks to a special event that evening… egg pasta handmade from scratch and done the old fashioned way with a rolling pin from the tradition of Bologna and the Emilia Romagna region. Francesca (and her brother Tommaso) are from Bologna, Italy and doing a 1 month “pasta class tour” in the US that had started with Texas and then Seattle and had stopped in Portland next before going off to California for the rest of October (go to her website and email her if you are interested in signing up). I’m jealous that she was only in my area for a week but California is getting her for a month for opportunity of learning from sweet Italian girl (at least she appeared that way whenever I glanced over to the banquet table where she and her brother, Cathy Whims, and other guests were having dinner family style right next to us…). It seems a lot more lighthearted fun (and less intimidating) than learning from an Italian grandmama.

Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori

I started out with a wine flight of Vini del vulcano, red wines from Mt Etna “a magnificent wild terroir”. I’m a big fan of wines made from grapes in volcanic soil regions. I was in love with the middle wine especially, a Etna Rosso DOC I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ 2007 from grapes of 100+ year old vines, because it was so smooth and almost buttery in feel while being light berry forward. Meanwhile, F was excited and enjoyed some tasty Italian beers such as D’uvaBeer by LoverBeer and Genziana by Birra del Borgo.
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Cathy Whims,

Starterwise, both the salad (Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar) and House charcuterie plates were big hits. I was glad they refilled our bread plate so that I could use it to balance out all the rich meaty goodness. The House Charcuterie plate included, from upper left corner clockwise, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, bread service with olive oil Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Insalata mista with lettuces, crisp seasonal vegetables, arbequina olive oil and red wine vinegar Nostrana, Cathy Whims, House charcuterie plate, crispy pork trotter, lamb liver and fresh herb pate, porchetta di testa, apple mostardo, coppa di testa, smoked ham, pickled radish and pattypan squash

Finally, the beautiful handmade pastas from Francesca Tori, thick and doughy and fresh. The favorite pasta was the Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter (although maybe a little too generous with the butter, but nothing a little shake couldn’t help with), although the wonderful sauce with the Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano was good enough to drink as a soup.
Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Caramelle candy-shaped pasta filled with Red Kuri squash, nutmeg, parmigiano, and sage butter Handmade Pasta at Nostrana, by Francesca Tori, Garganelli with prosciutto, arugula, brandy, milk, tomato, parmigiano

We wrapped up with a Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espresso and Pizzeria Mozza’s butterscotch budino with salted caramel. You cannot go to Nostrana without having budino!
Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Tiramisu of ladyfingers, rum, mascarpone, Spella espress Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel Nostrana, Cathy Whims, Pizzeria Mozza's butterscotch budino with salted caramel

Nostrana will sometimes host various dinner and even cooking events with visiting chefs, so keep an eye on their Facebook and website to see what Nostrana is exploring next!

 

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Spinasse Dinner: Italian Heaven in Seattle

Delicate lovely Italian restaurant Spinasse was a request on my part because I wanted to feel the Tajarin Love. Even before we had ordered (though I had been reading and rereading the menu and photos on yelp and Foodspotting for a few days, so I was quite ready) we were greeted with an amuse bouche of a salmon mousse on bread cracker. Our waitress was very patient and generous with big smiles and checking in while leaving us alone as we lingered throughout our meal, eating slowly and savoring the flavors… and also because we were full even before we walked in. But we were determined to enjoy anyway!

We started our overindulgance (ok, this was my fault again) with Antipasto misto della casa, which is “A taste of all our house antipasti”. That’s right, instead of picking I just picked them all, muahaha. For this visit, that included

Spinasse Dinner Seattle antipasto

  • Pio Tosini prosciutto di Parma Prosciutto di Parma aged 14 months with marinated apricots.
  • Bruschetta di salmone Cured salmon bruschetta with Spinasse’s own ricotta and roasted beet.
  • Insalata di cicoria di campo, a local chicory salad with marinated rabbit, parmigiano-reggiano and balsamico.
  • Insalata rusa, a Summer Russian salad with carrots, cherry tomatoes, spring onion, salsa tonnata and anchovy.

These were delicious, I loved the textures and slight bitterness with the chicory salad that was balanced with the rabbit contrasted with the parmigiano-reggiano saltiness and acidic yet sweet aged balsamico; the prosciutto was a generous portion that I layered atop the soft bread; the bruschetta had the bright roasted beets where I made sure not to lose a single little cube; and my favorite of the four was the Insalata ruso with the flavors of the carrots and cherry tomatoes with the creaminess of the salsa tonnata.

Ah, and then the promised and well reviewed Tajarin al ragù o burro e salvia, a fine hand cut egg pasta with ragù or butter and sage. I went with butter and sage because I wanted to taste the handmade pasta in all its subtle detail. It was ridiculously amazing, I think I could have eaten that pasta dough raw with the butter and sage out of the way because that pasta was just so fresh and good. The strands of the pasta were just so impossibly thin, like the gold thread you would expect Rumpelstiltskin to spin. Each forkful is luscious and melt in your mouth- though that could have also been the ridiculous amount of butter. Well, that’s why I agreed to try out a Flywheel spin class the next morning at 6am- so no worries about what I’m eating here. If the reward after every spin class was this dish, I would buy a membership today. I tried not to scare other diners by letting them see my eyes roll back as I enjoyed these exquisite silky strands sprinkled with Parmesan .

Spinasse Dinner Seattle tajarin

We finished with the Anatra con prunge, a dish of braised duck leg with plums, tremiti olives and basil. So complex in flavors, with each of the components really great on their own, and a symphony all together. But boy was I uncomfortably full, and also mad at the Unicorn and my lack of forethought earlier when ordering at Skillet Diner. I had read that Spinasse had been called the best Italian in Seattle, which I wondered if that was hype… but it really isn’t.

Spinasse Dinner dinner duck leg

Seriously, just looking at the tajarin again and this video which highlights how they create the pasta and the dish, I want to go eat it right now, and I just ate it for dinner the other night… Except this time I would save up so I could order more rather than having 2 other meals that were not Spinasse that day. I have a crush on Spinasse and want to stalk it- how fortunate for it that it is located in Seattle and not where I live.

Pasta: Unique Eats from Lissa Gruman on Vimeo.

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