Creative Mexican by Clandestino PDX

On Monday – Wednesday you can find creative Mexican plates and glasses of intriguing wines from Clandestino PDX, a pop-up now in residence at Lil Dame by Dame Collective (in the old Beast/Ripe Cooperative space). If you haven’t had an opportunity to visit, make a date for these weekdays to treat yourself to a cozy dinner and a food and wine mini adventure.
Clandestino PDX - Left Ceviche of yellowfin tuna, guava, avocado, lime on tostadita, Right Carne tartara - beef, yuzu kosho, serrano on tostadita Clandestino PDX - Quesadillas - carnitas, quesillo, guacachile

Clandestino joined the collective to start serving up Mexican inspired dishes in December to rave review by tastemaker and written word wrangler Karen Brooks of Portland Monthly who called Clandestino Portland’s Best New Mexican Restaurant. Try to make reservations as the space in inclement weather is very cozy and with recent media coverage may even be full for the night, even on a Monday. You can see how small the open kitchen is, so they also can only realistically do only so many covers per evening. As spring and summer weather open up the outdoor seating and they dial in their menu they’ll have more capacity.

Be sure to try several half glass pours during your visit! You can trust and after selecting your dishes let the staff pour their recommended pairings – you can even ask for a different pairing per person like we did for each dish. Not only are the selections carefully curated to be all winners with the food and diverse in provenance and flavor profile, but that helps support both sides of the collective.
Clandestino PDX - part of the Dame Collective

The way it works is the food sales are kept by the chef, Dame keeps the beverage, and overhead and staff costs are split by both resident chef and Dame. So patronize both with your check! I’ve always been a fan of the pop-up model (I even used to cover pop-ups for Eater PDX) – restaurant industry life is hard in terms of long hours and margins in balancing inventory with limited shelf life. Pop-ups allow for some reasonable work time boundaries with more control of when open for business and taking breaks, and an ability to get some work life balance. It’s great business sense for the brick and mortar owners and visiting chefs and part of PDX’s supportive hospitality community.

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Republica PDX Dinner – Again

Although it’s only been 2 week since when I had my 5 course Chef’s Tasting Republica PDX Dinner, I went back again this weekend. They aren’t kidding around when they say that their menu is always changing and has new items. In the week in between my last dinner and this one, they had dishes highlighting escamoles and huitlacoche that I missed out on. As soon as I realized I could make a dinnertime this week, I set up a reservation. I was able to enjoy 3 different dishes from the Meat and Fish forward menu that I did not get 2 weeks ago, and I was able to switch out to a new dessert that had appeared on the Vegetable and Fruit forward menu. So 4 of the 5 dishes I just had were different!

You can compare this Republica PDX Dinner to the last one that I recapped for exact dishes, but for this visit I opted to start with a cocktail as a reward for a hard-working week before dinner even began. This is one of many drinks crafted by Adriana Alvarez, with most cocktails highlighting mezcals and tequilas though there is a bourbon and a rum option available. The one I picked was the Where Without Whom, with Banhez Espadin & Barril (Mezcal), Ver Liqueur, Poblano Liqueur, Pineapple, Citrus, and Candied Pineapple. It was surprisingly easy drinking despite all the liqueurs.
Where Without Whom cocktail by Adriana Alvarez at Republic PDX Dinner, with Banhez Espadin & Barril (Mezcal), Ver Liqueur, Poblano Liqueur, Pineapple, Citrus, and Candied Pineapple

To Snack

Republica PDX Dinner Menu for June 18, 2021: para picar, Maiz ancestral, chipotle, queso fresco, nopalitos. The corn masa boat with everything but the olive oil and queso fresco representing historical native ingredients from Mexico, and a nod towards colonialism and modern ingredients such as the oil and cheese being added to the indigenous diets.
Republica PDX Dinner Menu for June 18, 2021: para picar, Maiz ancestral, chipotle, queso fresco, nopalitos

I opted to try a distilled agave pairing along with the meal instead of wine pairings this time. Angel Medina, one of the co-owners (along with Chef Lauro Romano and Chef Olivia Bartruff) was the guide here. He explained where each bottle came from, the native plant and sometimes a bit about the distiller. The tastes were provided not so much to pair with the food while eating it, but as tastes in between.

I felt a little guilty in that I had wanted to come on a weekday so it was less rushed to enjoy it, but here I was on a Friday dinner seating. I would recommend to get the most of Angel’s knowledge, to try to come when he doesn’t have to balance your table with the rest of the full house on a weekend dinner night. We started out the first tasting with Derrumbes San Luis Potosi Mezcal, which I remember having a sweet fruit with highlight of salt, and not smoky. I had assumed mezcal had smoky undertones, so this was a surprise for me, and good learning.
Distilled Agave Pairing at Republica PDX Dinner -

Savory Courses 1-4

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Chef’s Tasting Menu at Republica

In the evenings starting at 5pm is the switch to a 5 course chef’s tasting menu at Republica. Reservations are available for outdoors on their terrace or a handful of tables indoors. ️The menu changes daily based on ingredients at their peak and availability, but if you are wondering what the prix fixe will get you, let me assure you it’s an incredible value based on the flavors and the history of native Mexican ingredients and food, and if you opt into the pairing with wines from Mexican, Latinx, and women-owned wineries, an adventure. Luckily they sell all the wine bottles so you can take your discovery home. An agave pairing is also available or wine beer or cocktails by the glass.
Republica Terrace Seating Republica wine pairing introduced me to Chenin Columbard from Monte Xantic, I had never heard of it before but it was wonderful

I had an incredible dinner this past weekend. This dinner may not represent what you may receive if you go since the menu does change all the time. But in case you were not sure (and don’t like complete surprises), here’s a walkthrough of my experience. The high level outline is that two menus are available each night, either Vegetable and fruit menu or the Meat and fish menu. Both are gluten free but include dairy. Even with the Meat and fish menu version, you should not expect the meat heavy cheese laden food you may usually expect at Mexican places with huge burritos, salty chips and salsa and guacamole in a basket, etc. which are more Tex Mex or reflect food colonization or world fusion rather then reflective of Native Mexican and modern Mexican cuisine which is the heart here. You’ll notice the difference in courses between the two menus only appears a few times.

Para Picar

Basically an amuse bouche here of a memelita. A memelita is a masa that has been fried topped with fresh ingredients. They strive to use native ingredients when possible, and although a couple ingredients here were not (like the cheese, though I believe it is still sourced locally). The one this evening was Maiz Ancestral, chipotle, and quesot fresco, and nopalitos or cactus
Republica Para Picar. A memelita is a masa that has been fried topped with fresh ingredients. They strive to use native ingredients when possible, and although a couple ingredients here were not (like the cheese, though I believe it is still sourced locally). The one this evening was Maiz Ancestral, chipotle, and quesot fresco, and nopalitos or cactus Republica Para Picar. A memelita is a masa that has been fried topped with fresh ingredients. They strive to use native ingredients when possible, and although a couple ingredients here were not (like the cheese, though I believe it is still sourced locally). The one this evening was Maiz Ancestral, chipotle, and quesot fresco, and nopalitos or cactus

Course 1

Aguachile, literally translating to chilled water, usually includes marinated shrimp (though not in this case) and also raw vegetables or seafood in a seasoned liquid. The Aguachile Rojo here is from the Fruit and Vegetables menu and includes compressed fruits like watermelon, cherry, cucumber, cantaloupe and some magic lil cucumber balls that pop like caviar. Obviously this dish is representing modern Mexican – not many people making cucumber caviar in the home kitchen. The Aguachile Verde in this case included Kampachi and avocado mousse, cucumber, and chiles and citrus. The only drawback to the dish was the plating didn’t make it seem like I can drink every last drop from the bowl. The pairing for this was a bright with nice acidity Sauvignon Blanc Vina Kristel 2019 from Monte Xanic Bodega Vinícola, a winery from the Guadalupe region of Mexico. Dangerously easy drinking.
Republica Course 1. Aguachile Rojo here is from the Fruit and Vegetables menu and includes watermelon, cherry, cucumber, cantaloupe and some magic lil balls that pop like caviar Republica Course 1. Aguachile, literally translating to chilled water, usually includes marinated shrimp (though not in this case) and also raw vegetables or seafood in a seasoned liquid. The Aguachile Verde in this case included Kampachi and avocado

Course 2

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